Valencia
5
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Valencia is Spain's most underrated region. The birthplace of paella, home to Europe's finest Silk Exchange, a city that turned its flooded river into a 9km park, and a coastline of ancient castle towns that almost nobody visits. Five days is barely enough to scratch the surface. This route covers the full sweep of hidden Valencia. The ancient Carmen neighbourhood, the lagoon and village that invented paella, a hilltop castle where Borgia popes were born, dramatic cliff villages, a medieval fortress city, a wild coastal headland, and the deepest and most unknown medieval towns in the entire Maestrazgo mountains.
Best Time To Visit
March to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Valencia Airport (VLC)
Getting Around
Rental car recommended, metro for city centre
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
VALENCIA CITY
MORNING
BARRIO DEL CARMEN, VALENCIA'S ANCIENT SOUL
The Carmen is Valencia's oldest neighbourhood and most tourists walk straight past it. Wind through medieval alleyways to find the Centro del Carmen, a stunning 13th-century convent converted into a free contemporary art centre with an extraordinary gothic cloister. Seek out the Plaza del Tossal and the ancient Arab walls that still line Calle de Quart. Drive: 10 min walk to Mercado de Mossen Sorell
MIDDAY
MERCADO DE MOSSEN SORELL, THE MARKET NOBODY VISITS
While tourists queue for the Central Market, locals shop at the Mercado de Mossen Sorell in the Carmen neighbourhood. A 19th-century iron-and-glass market hall virtually unchanged in a century. Fresh produce, local cheeses and the best place in Valencia to try all i pebre, the traditional eel stew of the region. Drive: 15 min walk to Jardines del Turia
AFTERNOON
JARDINES DEL TURIA, THE RIVER THAT BECAME A PARK
When the River Turia flooded Valencia in 1957, the city turned the entire 9km dry riverbed into a linear park through the heart of the city. Cycle or walk from the old town to the City of Arts and Sciences, stopping at hidden gardens, fountains and the extraordinary Gulliver playground sculpture.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Torres de Serranos are two of the finest Gothic city gates in Europe, free to enter and completely missed by most tourists. Climb them for rooftop views over the old city. Located in the Carmen neighbourhood.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Horchateria Santa Catalina Valencia's oldest horchateria serving horchata and fartons since 1836. A non-negotiable first morning ritual. | Lunch: Bar Pilar Valencia's most beloved tapas bar in a Carmen alleyway. Famous for clochinas (local mussels) since 1917. | Dinner: La Pepica, Malvarrosa Beach Legendary beachfront restaurant where Hemingway ate. The best paella in Valencia. Book ahead.
DAY 2
ALBUFERA AND XATIVA
MORNING
ALBUFERA NATURAL PARK, WHERE PAELLA WAS BORN
Just 10km south of Valencia, the Albufera is a vast freshwater lagoon surrounded by rice paddies and home to over 250 bird species. Take a traditional wooden boat across the lagoon at sunrise for the most peaceful experience. The morning mist over the water and rice fields is extraordinary. Drive: 20 min drive to El Palmar
MIDDAY
EL PALMAR, THE VILLAGE THAT INVENTED PAELLA
El Palmar is a tiny village entirely surrounded by water in the middle of the Albufera lagoon. This is the true birthplace of paella. Walk the single main street, watch fishermen mending nets, and eat the most authentic paella of your life in one of the village restaurants that have cooked it the same way for generations. Drive: 45 min drive to Xativa
AFTERNOON
XATIVA, THE HILLTOP CASTLE CITY NOBODY VISITS
Xativa has one of the finest castle complexes in Spain, stretching over a kilometre along a rocky ridge with views over the entire Valencia plain. Despite being extraordinary, it receives a fraction of the visitors of Segovia or Toledo. The castle was birthplace of two Borgia popes and contains a portrait of Philip V hung upside down as punishment for burning the city in 1707.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
Drive the CV-500 road between the Albufera lagoon and the sea through the rice paddies at sunset for one of the most beautiful drives in Spain. The road is flat, empty and lined with reeds and water on both sides.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Valencia old town Leave by 8am for the best morning light on the Albufera lagoon. | Lunch: Restaurante Mateu, El Palmar The most authentic paella experience in Spain. Wood-fired paella valenciana cooked the traditional way. Order 30 minutes ahead. | Dinner: Bodega Casa Montana, Valencia One of Valencia's oldest tavernas. Exceptional wines, anchovies and Valencian small plates since 1836.
DAY 3
BOCAIRENT AND MORELLA
MORNING
BOCAIRENT, THE MOST SPECTACULAR VILLAGE IN VALENCIA
Bocairent is carved directly into a vertical cliff face in the mountains inland, with houses literally built into the rock. The old town sits on a rocky promontory 650 metres above sea level with extraordinary views. The Coves de la Sal, prehistoric cave dwellings carved into the cliff face, can be visited for just 3 euros. Drive: 1.5 hour drive to Morella
MIDDAY
MORELLA, THE FORTRESS CITY OF THE MAESTRAZGO
Morella is one of the most dramatic medieval cities in Spain and almost completely unknown outside the country. A walled city perched on a 1,000-metre rocky outcrop, crowned by a castle so large it takes an hour to walk around. The intact medieval walls encircle the entire hilltop and can be walked for free.
AFTERNOON
THE MAESTRAZGO MOUNTAIN DRIVE
The return drive from Morella through the Maestrazgo mountain range is one of the most spectacular and unknown scenic routes in Spain. A largely empty landscape of dramatic rocky valleys, ancient hilltop villages and medieval hermitages. Stop at the village of Vilafranca del Cid for coffee and mountain views.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Coves de la Sal below Bocairent contain prehistoric rock art and were used as Bronze Age salt stores. Just 3 euros entry with a passionate local guide. One of the most memorable experiences in the Valencia region and virtually unknown to foreign visitors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bocairent village Several excellent local cafes on the main square. Try the local coca de molletes pastry. | Lunch: Restaurante Casa Roque, Morella Most acclaimed restaurant in the Maestrazgo. Local game, truffle dishes and black sausage. Book ahead. | Dinner: La Llar, Valencia Welcoming neighbourhood restaurant in Valencia's Ruzafa district. Modern Valencian cuisine at honest prices.
DAY 4
COSTA DEL AZAHAR
MORNING
PENISCOLA, THE CITY IN THE SEA
Peniscola is one of the most dramatically sited castles in Spain. A medieval walled city built entirely on a rocky headland jutting into the Mediterranean, connected to the mainland by a thin strip of sand. The 14th-century Templar castle at the tip of the headland has panoramic views over the sea in three directions. Arrive before 10am to explore the old town before the day visitors arrive. Drive: 30 min drive to Benicassim
MIDDAY
DESERT DE LES PALMES, THE HIDDEN NATURAL PARK
The Desert de les Palmes is a wild natural park of rocky mountains directly behind the Costa del Azahar coast that almost no tourists ever visit. Drive to the Ermita del Bartolo hermitage at 729 metres for the finest coastal panorama in the Valencia region, with views stretching from Peniscola to Sagunto on a clear day. The road up is dramatic and the site is free. Drive: 20 min drive to Castello
AFTERNOON
CASTELLO DE LA PLANA, THE CITY THAT HAS EVERYTHING
Castello is a Spanish city almost entirely unknown to foreign tourists yet full of extraordinary hidden gems. The 16th-century Fadri bell tower stands apart from the adjacent cathedral for a peculiar reason, it was never attached because the cathedral was never finished. The Espai d'Art Contemporani de Castello is one of the finest free contemporary art galleries in Spain.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The stretch of coast between Oropesa del Mar and Benicassim contains several hidden coves accessible only on foot via the GR-92 coastal path. The Cova dels Arcs sea cave and the Cala del Borrio are the most spectacular and can be reached in a 30-minute walk from Benicassim town. Almost entirely unknown and genuinely beautiful.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Peniscola old town Grab coffee and a tostada in one of the old town bars before the crowds arrive. The views from the terrace cafes are extraordinary. | Lunch: Restaurante El Langostino de Oro The finest seafood restaurant in Peniscola, overlooking the sea. Order the fresh clams and local rice dishes. | Dinner: Restaurant Tasca del Puerto, Castello Beloved local restaurant near the old town. Excellent fideuada (noodle paella) and local wines.
DAY 5
DEEP MAESTRAZGO
MORNING
ARES DEL MAESTRAT, THE EAGLE'S NEST VILLAGE
Ares del Maestrat is the most dramatically positioned village in the entire Valencia region. Perched on a 1,319-metre rocky outcrop with sheer cliffs dropping away on three sides, it was one of the most impregnable fortresses in medieval Spain. The views from the ruined castle at the summit over the surrounding Maestrazgo plateau are among the most spectacular in the country. Drive: 30 min drive to Cantavieja
MIDDAY
CANTAVIEJA, THE CAPITAL OF THE MAESTRAZGO PLATEAU
Cantavieja sits on the edge of a 1,200-metre limestone escarpment with views that stretch across the vast plateau of the Maestrazgo. The arcaded Plaza Mayor is one of the most perfectly preserved medieval squares in Spain and completely unknown outside the region. Walk the town walls and find the mirador at the cliff edge for the most vertiginous view in the Valencia mountains. Drive: 45 min drive to Valderrobres
AFTERNOON
VALDERROBRES, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TOWN YOU'VE NEVER HEARD OF
Across the border in Aragon but reached most naturally from the Valencia Maestrazgo, Valderrobres is consistently ranked one of the most beautiful small towns in Spain. A perfectly preserved medieval town on a river bend, crowned by a 14th-century castle and Gothic church. The stone bridge, castle and church reflected in the river below is one of the great photographs of inland Spain.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The road between Cantavieja and Valderrobres passes through the Riu Bergantes gorge, one of the most spectacular and completely unknown natural landscapes in eastern Spain. A narrow road follows the river through dramatic limestone cliffs for 20km with virtually no other traffic. Stop at the Mas de la Roca viewpoint for the finest gorge panorama.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Ares del Maestrat The village bar opens at 8am and serves excellent local coffee and homemade pastries to the handful of early visitors. | Lunch: Hostal Balcon del Maestrazgo The best restaurant in Cantavieja. Traditional mountain dishes, local lamb and superb views from the terrace. | Dinner: Restaurant La Torre, Valderrobres Finest restaurant in Valderrobres, in a medieval building near the castle. Local game and Aragon wine list.
Where To Stay
Valencia, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel One Shot Palacio Reina Victoria, stunning Belle Epoque hotel in the city centre. Approx 100 to 150 euros per night. Morella, Night 3 Hotel Cardenal Ram, a 16th-century cardinal's palace converted into a hotel. Approx 70 to 110 euros per night. Costa Azahar or Maestrazgo, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel El Palau, Peniscola or rural casa rural in Cantavieja. Approx 60 to 120 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Book an Albufera boat trip in advance in summer, they fill up fast in peak season.
2. Las Fallas festival in March is extraordinary but Valencia is very busy, book months ahead.
3. Valencia restaurants serve lunch from 2 to 4pm and dinner from 9pm. Embrace the schedule.
4. The Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) is free on Sundays and is one of Europe's finest Gothic buildings.
5. Hire a bike to explore the Turia Gardens, the 9km linear park is best experienced by cycling.
6. Book Restaurant Casa Roque in Morella at least a week ahead, it is small and fills up fast.
Total Budget
90 to 160 euros/day