Valencia
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Valencia is Spain's most underrated city and region. The birthplace of paella, home to Europe's largest medieval silk exchange, and a city that turned its flooded river into a 9km park. Beyond the city, an extraordinary landscape of cliff villages, medieval fortress towns and the lagoon that inspired one of the world's great dishes. This 3-day route skips the tourist queues entirely. Explore the ancient Carmen neighbourhood locals love and tourists miss, eat paella in the village that invented it, climb to a castle where Borgia popes were born, and discover two of the most dramatic and unknown medieval towns in all of Spain.
Best Time To Visit
March to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Valencia Airport (VLC)
Getting Around
Rental car recommended, metro for city centre
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
VALENCIA CITY
MORNING
BARRIO DEL CARMEN, VALENCIA'S ANCIENT SOUL
The Carmen is Valencia's oldest neighbourhood, predating even the Romans, and most tourists walk straight past it. Wind through medieval alleyways to find the Centro del Carmen, a stunning 13th-century convent converted into a free contemporary art centre with an extraordinary gothic cloister. Seek out the Plaza del Tossal and the ancient Arab walls that still line Calle de Quart. Drive: 10 min walk to Mercado de Mossen Sorell
MIDDAY
MERCADO DE MOSSEN SORELL, THE MARKET NOBODY VISITS
While tourists queue for the Central Market, locals do their shopping at the Mercado de Mossen Sorell in the Carmen neighbourhood. A 19th-century iron-and-glass market hall that has barely changed in a century. Fresh produce, local cheeses, and the best place in Valencia to try all i pebre, the traditional eel stew of the region. Virtually no tourists. Drive: 15 min walk to Jardines del Turia
AFTERNOON
JARDINES DEL TURIA, THE RIVER THAT BECAME A PARK
When the River Turia flooded Valencia in 1957, the city made one of the greatest urban planning decisions in European history. Instead of rebuilding the river, they turned the entire 9km dry riverbed into a linear park that runs through the heart of the city. Cycle or walk from the old town all the way to the City of Arts and Sciences, stopping at hidden gardens, fountains and the extraordinary Gulliver playground sculpture.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos are two of the finest Gothic city gates in Europe, both still standing in the Carmen neighbourhood and both free to enter. Climb the Torres de Serranos for rooftop views over the old city and the dried river bed. Almost no tourists visit despite being free and extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Horchateria Santa Catalina The oldest horchateria in Valencia, serving the city's famous horchata and fartons since 1836. A non-negotiable first morning ritual. | Lunch: Bar Pilar Valencia's most beloved tapas bar, tucked into a Carmen alleyway. Famous for clochinas (local mussels) and ice-cold beer since 1917. | Dinner: La Pepica, Malvarrosa Beach Legendary beachfront restaurant where Hemingway ate and Picasso dined. The best paella in Valencia at honest prices. Book ahead.
DAY 2
ALBUFERA AND XATIVA
MORNING
ALBUFERA NATURAL PARK, WHERE PAELLA WAS BORN
Just 10km south of Valencia, the Albufera is a vast freshwater lagoon surrounded by rice paddies and home to over 250 species of birds. This is the landscape that inspired paella, which was originally a dish cooked by farmers in the rice fields. Take a traditional wooden boat across the lagoon at sunrise for the most peaceful experience. The morning mist over the water and rice fields is extraordinary. Drive: 20 min drive to El Palmar
MIDDAY
EL PALMAR, THE VILLAGE THAT INVENTED PAELLA
El Palmar is a tiny village entirely surrounded by water in the middle of the Albufera lagoon, accessible only by a single road through the rice paddies. This is the true birthplace of paella. Walk the single main street, watch fishermen mending nets, and eat the most authentic paella of your life in one of the village restaurants that have been cooking it the same way for generations. Drive: 45 min drive to Xativa
AFTERNOON
XATIVA, THE HILLTOP CASTLE CITY NOBODY VISITS
Xativa has one of the finest castle complexes in Spain, stretching for over a kilometre along a rocky hilltop ridge with views over the entire Valencia plain to the sea. Despite being extraordinary, it receives a fraction of the visitors of Segovia or Toledo. The castle was the birthplace of two Borgia popes and contains a portrait of Philip V hung upside down as punishment for burning the city in 1707.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The rice fields surrounding the Albufera turn a brilliant emerald green in spring and gold in autumn. Drive the CV-500 road that runs between the lagoon and the sea through the rice paddies at sunset for one of the most beautiful drives in Spain. The road is completely flat, empty and lined with reeds and water on both sides.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Valencia old town Grab a coffee and croissant before the early drive to Albufera. Leave by 8am for the best morning light on the lagoon. | Lunch: Restaurante Mateu, El Palmar The most authentic paella experience in Spain. Wood-fired paella valenciana cooked in the traditional way. Order 30 minutes ahead. | Dinner: Bodega Casa Montana, Valencia One of Valencia's oldest and most beloved tavernas. Exceptional wines, anchovies and Valencian small plates since 1836.
DAY 3
BOCAIRENT AND MORELLA
MORNING
BOCAIRENT, THE MOST SPECTACULAR VILLAGE IN VALENCIA
Bocairent is carved directly into a vertical cliff face in the mountains inland from Valencia, with houses literally built into the rock. The old town sits on a rocky promontory 650 metres above sea level with extraordinary views over the surrounding mountains. The Coves de la Sal, prehistoric cave dwellings carved into the cliff face below the village, can be visited for just 3 euros. Almost entirely off the tourist radar. Drive: 1.5 hour drive to Morella
MIDDAY
MORELLA, THE FORTRESS CITY OF THE MAESTRAZGO
Morella is one of the most dramatic medieval cities in Spain and almost completely unknown outside the country. A walled city of 6,000 people perched on a 1,000-metre rocky outcrop, crowned by a castle so large it takes an hour to walk around. The intact medieval walls encircle the entire hilltop and can be walked for free. Gothic aqueduct, ancient alleys and extraordinary views in every direction.
AFTERNOON
THE DRIVE BACK THROUGH THE MAESTRAZGO MOUNTAINS
The return drive from Morella to Valencia through the Maestrazgo mountain range is one of the most spectacular and unknown scenic routes in Spain. A largely empty landscape of dramatic rocky valleys, ancient hilltop villages and medieval hermitages. Stop at the village of Vilafranca del Cid for a coffee and views over the surrounding sierra.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Coves de la Sal below Bocairent village contain prehistoric rock art and were used as salt stores in the Bronze Age. Just 3 euros entry and entirely guided by a local who speaks with genuine passion about the archaeology. One of the most memorable and unusual experiences in the Valencia region and known to almost no foreign visitors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bocairent village The village has several excellent local cafes on the main square. Try the local pastry coca de molletes with your coffee. | Lunch: Restaurante Casa Roque, Morella The most acclaimed restaurant in the Maestrazgo. Local game, truffle dishes and Morella black sausage. Book well ahead. | Dinner: La Llar, Valencia Welcoming neighbourhood restaurant in Valencia's Ruzafa district. Excellent modern Valencian cuisine at honest prices.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Valencia, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel One Shot Palacio Reina Victoria, stunning Belle Epoque hotel in the city centre. Approx 100 to 150 euros per night. Morella or surrounds, Night 3 Hotel Cardenal Ram, Morella. A 16th-century cardinal's palace converted into a hotel. Approx 70 to 110 euros. Budget Option Valencia: Purple Nest Hostel from approx 30 euros. City centre location, great reviews.
Top Tips
1. Book an Albufera boat trip in advance in summer, they fill up fast in peak season.
2. Las Fallas festival in March is extraordinary but Valencia is very busy, book months ahead.
3. Valencia restaurants serve lunch from 2 to 4pm and dinner from 9pm. Embrace the schedule.
4. The Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange) is free on Sundays and is one of Europe's finest Gothic buildings.
5. Hire a bike to explore the Turia Gardens, the 9km linear park is best experienced by cycling.
6. Book Restaurant Casa Roque in Morella at least a week ahead, it is small and fills up fast.
Total Budget
90 to 160 euros/day