Umbria
3
Day Itinerary •
Italy
Umbria is the green heart of Italy, a landlocked region of extraordinary hilltop cities, ancient forests, sacred mountains and one of the richest concentrations of medieval art in the world. Often called the other Tuscany, it is quieter, wilder, more spiritual and in many ways more extraordinary. The truffle, the wild boar, the Sagrantino wine and the extraordinary light over the Umbrian plain are all unlike anything else in Italy. This 3-day route covers the hidden Umbria. Assisi, the extraordinary pilgrimage city of Saint Francis with the finest Giotto fresco cycle in existence. Perugia, the extraordinary medieval university city with a Chocolate Festival that rivals anything in Europe. And the magnificent Orvieto on its volcanic tufa cliff, with its extraordinary striped cathedral and the hidden underground Etruscan city carved into the rock below.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Rome (FCO) then drive 2 hours or Perugia (PEG)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
ASSISI
MORNING
MIDDAY
THE BASILICA DI SAN FRANCESCO, GIOTTO'S GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT
The Basilica di San Francesco is one of the most important buildings in Italian art history. The Lower Church contains extraordinary frescoes by Cimabue, Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini. The Upper Church contains Giotto's 28-scene cycle of the life of Saint Francis, painted around 1297, which effectively invented the visual language of Western painting. Entry is free. Arrive immediately after 9am opening for the first hour without crowds. Drive: 20 min walk to Eremo
AFTERNOON
THE EREMO DELLE CARCERI AND MONTE SUBASIO
The Eremo delle Carceri is the extraordinary cave hermitage above Assisi where Saint Francis retreated to pray, set in ancient ilex forest on the slope of Monte Subasio. A 4km walk from Assisi. The caves where Francis prayed are tiny and deeply moving. The walk up through the forest is extraordinary. The hermitage is still occupied by Franciscan friars and entry is free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Basilica di Santa Chiara on the opposite hill from San Francesco contains the San Damiano Crucifix, the painted wooden cross that spoke to Saint Francis in 1206 and told him to rebuild the Church. The original cross is kept in the dark chapel to the right of the nave. Free to enter and one of the most important objects in the history of Christianity.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Assisi lower piazza Coffee before walking the empty dawn streets. The bars open at 7am. | Lunch: Trattoria da Erminio, Assisi The finest traditional restaurant in Assisi. Local truffle pasta, wild boar and Sagrantino wine. | Dinner: Ristorante Il Frantoio, Assisi Outstanding restaurant in a medieval olive press. Local Umbrian cuisine and excellent local wines.
DAY 2
PERUGIA
MORNING
PERUGIA, THE EXTRAORDINARY MEDIEVAL UNIVERSITY CITY
Perugia is one of the most extraordinary medieval cities in central Italy and one of the most overlooked. The Corso Vannucci is the finest street in Umbria, lined with medieval and Renaissance palaces above an ancient Etruscan substructure. The Fontana Maggiore in the Piazza IV Novembre, built in 1278, is the finest Gothic fountain in Italy. The Palazzo dei Priori contains the Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, the finest collection of Umbrian painting in existence including extraordinary Perugino works. Drive: 15 min walk to Etruscan walls
MIDDAY
THE ETRUSCAN WALLS AND THE UNDERGROUND CITY
Perugia has the finest surviving Etruscan walls in Italy, massive polygonal stone blocks from the 3rd century BC visible throughout the city. The Rocca Paolina, a 16th-century papal fortress built over an entire medieval neighbourhood, was demolished by the Perugians on unification and the streets beneath preserved as an extraordinary underground city. Walk through the entire medieval quarter under the city for free. Drive: 15 min walk to chocolate
AFTERNOON
THE PERUGINA CHOCOLATE FACTORY AND BACI
Perugia is the chocolate capital of Italy, home of Perugina and the extraordinary Baci (kisses) chocolate praline with its tiny philosophical note inside the wrapper, invented in 1922. The Museo del Cioccolato at the Perugina factory tells the extraordinary story. The October chocolate festival (Eurochocolate) is one of the finest food festivals in Italy. The city also hosts Umbria Jazz, the finest jazz festival in Italy, every July.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria in the Palazzo dei Priori contains the finest Perugino collection in the world. Raphael was Perugino's student in Perugia before going to Rome. Entry approx 8 euros and visited by a fraction of those who queue at the Uffizi in Florence despite containing comparable masterpieces.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe Sandri, Perugia The most beautiful historic cafe in Perugia, on the Corso Vannucci since 1860. Extraordinary pastries. | Lunch: Osteria del Tempo Perso, Perugia Outstanding traditional restaurant. Local truffle pasta, lamb and excellent Montefalco Rosso. | Dinner: Ristorante La Taverna, Perugia Most celebrated restaurant in Perugia. Extraordinary Umbrian cuisine in a medieval cellar.
DAY 3
ORVIETO
MORNING
ORVIETO, THE CITY ON THE CLIFF
Orvieto sits on a flat-topped tufa cliff rising 325 metres from the Paglia valley, one of the most dramatic urban settings in Italy. Take the funicular from the station to the top of the cliff and walk the extraordinary medieval streets of the city. The Piazza del Duomo opens suddenly after the narrow streets to reveal the most extraordinary Gothic cathedral facade in Italy. Drive: 30 min in Cathedral
MIDDAY
THE DUOMO AND THE CAPPELLA DI SAN BRIZIO
The Cappella di San Brizio contains Luca Signorelli's extraordinary fresco cycle of the Last Judgement, begun in 1499. Michelangelo studied these frescoes before painting the Sistine Chapel and the debt is unmistakable. The Damned, the Resurrection of the Dead and the Antichrist are all extraordinary. Entry approx 5 euros. Combined with the rest of the cathedral complex. Drive: 30 min walk underground
AFTERNOON
ORVIETO UNDERGROUND, THE ETRUSCAN CITY BELOW
Orvieto sits on a tufa rock entirely hollow beneath, with 1,200 years of tunnels, Etruscan cellars, medieval pigeon houses and World War II air raid shelters. Entry approx 6 euros. The Pozzo di San Patrizio, a 16th-century double-helix well designed so that donkeys going down never met those coming up, is an extraordinary piece of Renaissance engineering. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Orvieto Classico white wine produced from Grechetto and Trebbiano grapes on the volcanic tufa soils below the city cliff is one of the finest white wines in central Italy. Buy directly from the bodegas in the city at extraordinary prices and quality. The Barberani and Palazzone estates are outstanding.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe Montanucci, Orvieto The finest traditional cafe in Orvieto on the Corso Cavour. Local pastries and strong espresso. | Lunch: Trattoria del Matto, Orvieto Outstanding traditional Umbrian restaurant. Wild boar, truffles and Orvieto Classico wine. | Dinner: Ristorante Il Giglio d'Oro, Orvieto Most celebrated restaurant in Orvieto. Extraordinary Umbrian cuisine in a medieval setting.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Assisi, Night 1 Hotel Fontebella, a beautiful 17th-century palazzo in the old city. Approx 110 to 180 euros per night. Perugia, Night 2 Hotel Brufani Palace, the finest hotel in Perugia with extraordinary views. Approx 150 to 230 euros per night. Budget Option Assisi: Hotel Ideale from approx 65 euros. Orvieto: Hotel Corso from approx 70 euros.
Top Tips
1. Assisi at dawn is extraordinary. Arrive before 7am and walk the Via San Francesco completely alone.
2. The Basilica di San Francesco Upper Church Giotto frescoes are best in the first hour after 9am opening.
3. Umbrian black truffle (tartufo nero) is far more affordable than white truffle. Buy it in Norcia directly.
4. Sagrantino di Montefalco is the most powerful red wine in Italy. Buy it at the Arnaldo Caprai estate.
5. The Orvieto underground tours run daily. Book at the Piazza del Duomo tourist office on arrival.
6. Umbria Jazz festival in Perugia is every July. The world's finest outdoor jazz festival. Book hotels a year ahead.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day