Ticino
5
Day Itinerary •
Switzerland
Five days in Ticino give you the full sweep of Switzerland's most extraordinary region, where the Alps descend to the Mediterranean lakes and the Italian language, culture, cuisine and light create a world entirely unlike the rest of the country. From Lugano's extraordinary lakefront and Monte San Salvatore to the Brissago Islands tropical garden, the UNESCO castles of Bellinzona, the hidden Maggia and Verzasca valleys, and the extraordinary chestnut forests of the Malcantone, Ticino rewards five days extraordinarily well. This route covers the complete Ticino. Lugano old town and the lake villages, Monte San Salvatore and Monte Bre above the city, the Brissago Islands and medieval Ascona, Locarno and the Madonna del Sasso, the extraordinary Verzasca valley with its Roman bridge and emerald river, Bellinzona's three UNESCO castles, and the finest grotto restaurants and Merlot wine country in the hills of the Malcantone.
Best Time To Visit
April to October
Getting There
Fly into Zurich or Milan, train via Gotthard to Lugano
Getting Around
Swiss Travel Pass covers all trains and most lake boats throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 CHF per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, walking, boats and day hikes
DAY 1
LUGANO
MORNING
LUGANO OLD TOWN AND THE CATHEDRAL
Lugano is the most beautiful city in Italian-speaking Switzerland, its extraordinary hillside old town above Lake Lugano giving a Mediterranean atmosphere entirely unlike the rest of the country. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo has the finest Renaissance facade in Ticino. The Piazza della Riforma on the lakefront is the finest outdoor square in Switzerland, its cafe terraces facing the lake and the wooded hills beyond. The Via Nassa is Lugano's extraordinary arcaded shopping street, lined with the finest Italian fashion and chocolate shops. Travel: 20 min boat
MIDDAY
GANDRIA AND THE OLIVE TRAIL
Gandria is the most extraordinary village on Lake Lugano, a cluster of medieval houses clinging to a cliff above the water with no road access, reached only by boat or footpath. The village has the character of an old Italian fishing settlement entirely intact. The Olive Trail walk back to Lugano along the lakeside cliff through ancient olive groves is the finest walk in the region, approximately 1.5 hours through extraordinary Mediterranean landscape at lake level. Entirely free. Travel: 30 min boat back to Lugano
AFTERNOON
LUGANO LAKEFRONT AND THE MASI MUSEUM
The MASI Lugano art museum on the lakefront is the finest contemporary art museum in Ticino, housed in the extraordinary LAC cultural centre completed in 2015. The permanent collection contains the finest 20th-century Swiss art outside Zurich and the temporary exhibitions are consistently extraordinary. The LAC building itself gives the finest architecture on the Lugano lakefront. The Parco Civico beside it, with its extraordinary views of the lake and the hills, is entirely free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo delle Culture on the hill above Lugano is the most extraordinary ethnographic museum in Switzerland, housed in the extraordinary Villa Malpensata with a permanent collection of African, Asian and pre-Columbian art. The garden gives the finest free view of Lake Lugano from the hill above the old town. Entry approx 10 CHF. Almost entirely unknown to visitors outside Switzerland.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on the Piazza della Riforma Coffee on the finest lakefront square in Switzerland before the boats start. | Lunch: Ristorante La Tinera, Gandria Outstanding traditional restaurant in the car-free cliff village. Local fish and house Merlot. | Dinner: Ristorante Orologio, Lugano The finest traditional Ticino restaurant in the old town. Local risotto and Merlot del Ticino.
DAY 2
MONTE SAN SALVATORE AND MONTE BRE
MORNING
MONTE SAN SALVATORE, THE CORNERSTONE
Monte San Salvatore at 912 metres gives the most extraordinary panorama in Ticino, the full arc of Lake Lugano with the Alps behind and on clear days the Po plain stretching south to the horizon. The funicular from Paradiso takes 12 minutes. The summit church dates from the 14th century. The rocky path around the summit ridge gives views over the lake on both sides. The descent on foot through chestnut forest takes 1.5 hours and is the finest descent in the Lugano area. Funicular approx 26 CHF return. Travel: 30 min funicular and bus to Monte Bre
MIDDAY
MONTE BRE, THE SUNNIEST VILLAGE IN SWITZERLAND
Monte Bre at 933 metres above the eastern shore of Lake Lugano is the sunniest spot in Switzerland, its extraordinary south-facing position giving 2,200 sunshine hours per year. The village of Bre above the cable car station is the most extraordinary hill village in Ticino, its chestnut-shaded lanes and extraordinary views of the lake entirely undiscovered. The cable car from Cassarate takes 20 minutes. The walk down through chestnut forest to the lakeshore is extraordinary. Return approx 22 CHF. Travel: 20 min boat back to Lugano
AFTERNOON
THE LAKE LUGANO BOAT CIRCUIT
The afternoon boat circuit of Lake Lugano passes through the most extraordinary waterfront scenery in Ticino, stopping at Morcote, the finest lakeside village in Switzerland, with its extraordinary arcaded Renaissance church on the cliff above the water. The church of Santa Maria del Sasso at Morcote is reached by an extraordinary flight of 404 steps through cypress trees. The village below is lined with extraordinary Renaissance arcades directly on the lake. Boat covered by Swiss Travel Pass.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Morcote on Lake Lugano is the most extraordinary village in Ticino, its extraordinary Renaissance arcades built directly over the water and the hill rising steeply behind through cypress trees to the church of Santa Maria del Sasso. The 404 steps to the church are lined with extraordinary Baroque chapels. The view from the church terrace over the lake is the finest in the Lugano region.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Paradiso Coffee before the first funicular up Monte San Salvatore. | Lunch: Restaurant Monte Bre Outstanding restaurant at the summit. Extraordinary views and local Ticino food. | Dinner: Ristorante La Perla, Morcote The finest restaurant in the finest lakeside village. Local lake fish and extraordinary Merlot.
DAY 3
LAKE MAGGIORE AND LOCARNO
MORNING
THE BRISSAGO ISLANDS TROPICAL GARDEN
The Brissago Islands are the most extraordinary botanical garden in Switzerland, two small islands on Lake Maggiore at 193 metres where the Mediterranean climate allows over 1,700 tropical and subtropical plant species to grow outdoors year-round. The garden was created in the 1880s by the eccentric Baroness Antoinette de Saint-Leger. The extraordinary collection includes camellias, azaleas, banana trees and the finest collection of southern hemisphere plants in the Alps. Entry approx 10 CHF plus boat. Travel: 30 min boat to Ascona
MIDDAY
ASCONA, THE MEDIEVAL PIAZZA
Ascona's extraordinary Piazza Motta directly on the lake is the finest outdoor square in Ticino, its colourful Renaissance buildings and cafe terraces facing the lake and the wooded hills of the Centovalli beyond. The old town behind contains the extraordinary Church of Santa Maria della Misericordia with the largest fresco cycle in Switzerland. The Monte Verita hill above the town is the site of the extraordinary early 20th-century utopian commune that attracted Hermann Hesse, Isadora Duncan and Carl Jung. Travel: 20 min train to Locarno
AFTERNOON
LOCARNO AND THE MADONNA DEL SASSO
Locarno is the sunniest town in Switzerland, the extraordinary Piazza Grande the largest public square in the country and the venue for the Locarno Film Festival each August. The Madonna del Sasso sanctuary above the town is reached by funicular in 5 minutes and gives the most extraordinary view of Lake Maggiore and the Maggia delta. The sanctuary church contains extraordinary ex-voto paintings and Bramantino's remarkable Descent from the Cross. Funicular approx 7 CHF return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Centovalli railway from Locarno to Domodossola is one of the most extraordinary narrow-gauge journeys in Europe, crossing 83 bridges and passing through 31 tunnels in 52km through the extraordinary chestnut-forested valley. The Swiss Travel Pass covers the Swiss section as far as Re. The full journey to Domodossola in Italy takes 1 hour 45 minutes and is the finest train journey in Ticino.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on the Piazza Motta, Ascona Coffee directly on the lake shore before the Brissago boat departs. | Lunch: Restaurant Isole di Brissago Outstanding island restaurant. Local lake fish and Ticino white wine. | Dinner: Ristorante Elvezia, Locarno The finest traditional restaurant in Locarno old town. Local risotto, polenta and Merlot.
DAY 4
BELLINZONA AND MAGGIA
MORNING
BELLINZONA, THE THREE UNESCO CASTLES
Bellinzona's three extraordinary medieval castles, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, are the finest fortification complex in Switzerland. Castelgrande on the rock above the old town contains extraordinary Roman and medieval remains and the finest restaurant in any Swiss castle. Castello di Montebello above gives the finest panorama over the town and valley. Sasso Corbaro on the highest point was built in just six months in 1479 on the orders of Ludovico Sforza of Milan. All three connected by extraordinary medieval walls. Travel: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
BELLINZONA SATURDAY MARKET AND OLD TOWN
The Bellinzona Saturday market on the Piazza Nosetto is the finest traditional market in Ticino, local farmers selling extraordinary chestnut products, polenta flour, local Merlot and the finest Ticino mountain cheese. The Collegiate Church of SS Pietro e Stefano has an extraordinary late Gothic portal. The Piazza del Sole and the Piazza Collegiata are the finest Renaissance squares in Ticino. The old town as a whole is the most intact historic centre in Italian-speaking Switzerland. Travel: 30 min train to Locarno
AFTERNOON
THE MAGGIA VALLEY VILLAGES
The Maggia valley north of Locarno is the most extraordinary granitic valley in Ticino, its extraordinary stone villages and ancient arched bridges spanning a river of extraordinary turquoise clarity. The village of Maggia itself is the finest, its extraordinary Baroque church of Santa Maria delle Grazie containing the most remarkable fresco cycle in the valley. The stone villages of Moghegno, Gordevio and Aurigeno have an extraordinary medieval character entirely intact.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Castelgrande wine cantina in Bellinzona is the most extraordinary place to drink Ticino wine in Switzerland, a cave cellar inside the medieval castle walls serving the finest local Merlot and Bondola by the glass. The view from the cantina terrace over all three castle towers simultaneously is extraordinary. Open daily from 11am. Entry to the cantina free with castle ticket.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bellinzona old town Coffee in the extraordinary arcaded streets below the castles before they open. | Lunch: Ristorante Castelgrande Outstanding restaurant inside the oldest castle. Local polenta and grotto cuisine. | Dinner: Grotto Broggini, Maggia Valley The finest traditional grotto restaurant in the valley. Local rabbit, polenta and house Merlot.
DAY 5
VERZASCA AND MALCANTONE
MORNING
THE VERZASCA VALLEY AND THE ROMAN BRIDGE
The Verzasca valley above Locarno is the most extraordinary valley in Ticino, its extraordinary turquoise river running through a gorge of smooth granite boulders between ancient stone villages. The Ponte dei Salti at Lavertezzo is the most extraordinary medieval double-arched bridge in Switzerland, its two low arches spanning the river at a point where the turquoise water runs in extraordinary pools between polished granite slabs. Swimming in the Verzasca is the finest wild swimming in Switzerland. Bus from Locarno approx 1 hour. Travel: 1 hour bus back to Locarno
MIDDAY
THE MALCANTONE WINE HILLS
The Malcantone hills southwest of Lugano are the most extraordinary undiscovered wine country in Ticino, the granite hillsides covered with small family vineyards producing the finest Merlot del Ticino. The village of Aranno gives the most extraordinary panorama over the hills to the lake and the Alps. Several small cantinas in Caslano, Magliaso and Ponte Tresa offer extraordinary tastings of barrel-aged Merlot directly from the cellar at prices a fraction of comparable French wines. Travel: 30 min bus back to Lugano
AFTERNOON
LUGANO DEPARTURE
The final afternoon in Lugano is best spent on the Piazza della Riforma with a last coffee looking at the lake, then a walk through the extraordinary Via Nassa arcades to the boat landing stage. The train from Lugano to Zurich Airport via the new Gotthard Base Tunnel, the longest railway tunnel in the world at 57km, takes approximately 2.5 hours through extraordinary alpine scenery. The tunnel itself is extraordinary, the train dropping below the Alps in a matter of minutes.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Bungee jump at the Verzasca Dam above Tenero is the most extraordinary experience in Ticino, a 220-metre jump from the top of the extraordinary double-curvature arch dam used in the opening sequence of GoldenEye. The dam wall itself is open to walk across free of charge and gives an extraordinary view into the valley below. The reservoir above, the Lago di Vogorno, is an extraordinary deep green colour entirely unlike any other lake in Switzerland.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Locarno Coffee on the Piazza Grande before the bus to the Verzasca valley. | Lunch: Grotto al Ponte, Lavertezzo Outstanding grotto restaurant beside the extraordinary Roman bridge. Local food and Ticino wine. | Dinner: Ristorante Principe Leopoldo, Lugano The finest farewell dinner in Lugano. Extraordinary terrace with the last view of the lake.
Where To Stay
Lugano, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Splendide Royal or Villa Principe Leopoldo. Extraordinary lake views. Approx 150 to 500 CHF. Locarno or Ascona, Nights 3 to 4 Hotel La Palma or Hotel Castello Seeschloss, Ascona. Approx 130 to 400 CHF. Bellinzona, Night 5 Hotel Unione. Central, walking distance to all three castles. Approx 100 to 180 CHF.
Top Tips
1. Ticino is the warmest canton in Switzerland. The lakes are warm enough for swimming from May to October.
2. A grotto restaurant in the hills is the essential Ticino experience. Ask your hotel for their recommended local grotto.
3. The Verzasca Valley water is the most extraordinary turquoise in Switzerland. Swim at Lavertezzo in June or September.
4. Bellinzona's three castles are best visited early morning. Castelgrande opens at 10am; arrive for the opening for extraordinary quiet.
5. Merlot del Ticino costs a fraction of comparable Bordeaux or Burgundy. Buy direct from a Malcantone cantina.
6. The Olive Trail from Gandria to Lugano along the lake cliff is the finest free walk in Ticino. Allow 1.5 hours.
Total Budget
120 to 200 CHF/day