Ticino
3
Day Itinerary •
Switzerland
Three days in Ticino take you into the most extraordinary region of Switzerland, where the Alps meet the Mediterranean and the Italian language, culture and light transform the Swiss landscape into something entirely unexpected. From the palm-lined lakefront of Lugano with its extraordinary hillside setting to the Baroque piazzas of Locarno on Lake Maggiore and the three extraordinary UNESCO castles of Bellinzona, Ticino is unlike anywhere else in Switzerland. This route covers the essential Ticino. Lugano's extraordinary old town above the lake, the summit of Monte San Salvatore for the finest panorama in the region, the extraordinary Brissago Islands tropical garden on Lake Maggiore, the medieval walled town of Ascona, and the extraordinary triple castle complex of Bellinzona, the finest medieval fortification in Switzerland and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Best Time To Visit
April to October
Getting There
Fly into Zurich or Milan, train via Gotthard to Lugano
Getting Around
Swiss Travel Pass covers all trains and most lake boats
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 CHF per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and boat travel
DAY 1
LUGANO
MORNING
LUGANO OLD TOWN AND THE LAKEFRONT
Lugano is the most beautiful city in Italian-speaking Switzerland, its extraordinary hillside setting above Lake Lugano giving a Mediterranean atmosphere entirely unlike the rest of the country. The old town climbs steeply from the lakefront through narrow lanes and arcaded streets to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, whose extraordinary Renaissance facade is the finest in Ticino. The Piazza della Riforma on the lakefront is the finest outdoor square in Switzerland, its cafe terraces facing the lake and the wooded hills beyond. Travel: 20 min funicular and cable car
MIDDAY
MONTE SAN SALVATORE, THE CORNERSTONE
Monte San Salvatore at 912 metres above Lugano gives the most extraordinary panorama in Ticino, the entire arc of Lake Lugano with the Alps behind visible in extraordinary clarity. The funicular from Paradiso takes 12 minutes. The summit church dates from the 14th century and the extraordinary rocky path around the summit ridge gives views over the lake on both sides simultaneously. The descent on foot through chestnut forest takes approximately 1.5 hours. Funicular approx 26 CHF return. Travel: 30 min boat across the lake
AFTERNOON
LAKE LUGANO BY BOAT TO GANDRIA
Gandria is the most extraordinary village on Lake Lugano, a cluster of extraordinary medieval houses clinging directly to a cliff above the water, accessible only by boat or footpath. The village has no road access and the character of the old fishermen's settlement is entirely intact. The boat from Lugano takes 20 minutes. The Olive Trail walk back to Lugano along the lakeside cliff through ancient olive groves takes approximately 1.5 hours and is the finest walk in the Lugano region. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Villa Favorita above Lugano once housed the most extraordinary private art collection in Europe, assembled by Baron Heinrich von Thyssen-Bornemisza. While the main collection moved to Madrid, the extraordinary villa gardens on the lake shore remain and the park is open to visitors in summer. The view of the lake from the villa terrace is the finest in Lugano.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Lugano old town Coffee on the Piazza della Riforma with the lake directly in front. | Lunch: Restaurant del Lago, Monte San Salvatore Outstanding mountain restaurant at the summit with extraordinary lake panorama. | Dinner: Ristorante Orologio, Lugano The finest traditional Ticino restaurant in the old town. Local risotto and Merlot del Ticino.
DAY 2
LAKE MAGGIORE AND LOCARNO
MORNING
THE BRISSAGO ISLANDS, TROPICAL GARDEN ON LAKE MAGGIORE
The Brissago Islands are the most extraordinary natural garden in Switzerland, two small islands on Lake Maggiore at 193 metres, the lowest point in Switzerland, where the Mediterranean climate allows an extraordinary tropical garden of over 1,700 plant species from around the world. The islands are reached by boat from Locarno or Ascona. The larger island contains the extraordinary villa of the eccentric Baroness St Leger who created the garden in the 1880s. Entry approx 10 CHF plus boat. Travel: 30 min boat back to Ascona
MIDDAY
ASCONA, THE MEDIEVAL LAKESIDE TOWN
Ascona is the most extraordinary medieval town on Lake Maggiore, its extraordinary Piazza Motta directly on the water lined with colourful Renaissance buildings and cafe terraces. The old town behind contains the finest collection of medieval lanes in Ticino, with the extraordinary Church of Santa Maria della Misericordia housing the largest fresco cycle in Switzerland. Ascona was the centre of the Monte Verita artistic commune in the early 20th century, attracting Isadora Duncan, Paul Klee and Hermann Hesse. Travel: 20 min train to Locarno
AFTERNOON
LOCARNO OLD TOWN AND THE MADONNA DEL SASSO
Locarno is the sunniest town in Switzerland, its extraordinary Piazza Grande the largest public square in the country and the venue for the world-famous Film Festival each August. The Madonna del Sasso sanctuary above the town, reached by funicular in 5 minutes, gives the most extraordinary view of Lake Maggiore and the Maggia delta. The sanctuary church contains extraordinary ex-voto paintings and a remarkable Descent from the Cross by Bramantino. Funicular approx 7 CHF return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Monte Verita hill above Ascona was the site of the most extraordinary utopian commune in Europe from 1900 to 1920, where reformers, artists and anarchists from across Europe lived in extraordinary freedom. Hermann Hesse, Isadora Duncan and Carl Jung all stayed here. The extraordinary Casa Anatta museum on the hill documents the community. Entry approx 8 CHF.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Ascona Coffee on the extraordinary Piazza Motta directly on the lake shore before the boat. | Lunch: Restaurant Isole di Brissago Outstanding restaurant on the island garden. Local fish and Ticino Merlot. | Dinner: Ristorante Elvezia, Locarno The finest traditional restaurant in Locarno old town. Local risotto and polenta.
DAY 3
BELLINZONA
MORNING
BELLINZONA, THE THREE UNESCO CASTLES
Bellinzona is the most extraordinary fortified town in Switzerland, its three medieval castles controlling the valleys leading to the Gotthard and San Bernardino passes designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. Castelgrande, the oldest, dates from the Bronze Age and contains extraordinary Roman and medieval remains. Castello di Montebello above it gives the finest panorama over the town. Sasso Corbaro on the highest point was built in just six months in 1479. All three connected by extraordinary medieval walls. Travel: 30 min walk between castles
MIDDAY
BELLINZONA OLD TOWN AND SATURDAY MARKET
The old town of Bellinzona below the castles is the finest in Ticino, its extraordinary arcaded streets and Renaissance piazzas giving a character entirely unlike the rest of Switzerland. The Saturday market on the Piazza Nosetto is the finest traditional market in Ticino, with local farmers selling extraordinary chestnut products, local Merlot wine and the finest Ticino cheese. The Collegiate Church of SS Pietro e Stefano on the main square has an extraordinary carved portal. Travel: 30 min train back to Lugano
AFTERNOON
THE TICINO WINE ROUTE
The Ticino wine route through the villages south of Bellinzona passes through the finest Merlot country in Switzerland, the south-facing granite slopes producing an extraordinary red wine entirely unlike any other Swiss wine. The villages of Gorduno, Gudo and Cadenazzo contain small family cantinas offering extraordinary tastings of barrel-aged Merlot del Ticino directly from the cellar. The local riserva wines are extraordinary quality at remarkably low prices.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Castelgrande museum in Bellinzona contains an extraordinary collection of objects excavated from the castle hill spanning Bronze Age settlements to medieval armour, with the finest collection of Roman and Lombard finds in Ticino. Entry included with castle ticket, approx 8 CHF. The wine cantina inside the castle walls serves the finest local Merlot with an extraordinary view of all three castle towers.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bellinzona Coffee in the old town below the castles before they open at 10am. | Lunch: Ristorante Castelgrande Outstanding restaurant inside the oldest castle. Local polenta and grotto cuisine. | Dinner: Grotto Ticinese, Lugano area A traditional Ticino grotto restaurant in the hills. Local rabbit, polenta and house Merlot.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Lugano, Night 1 Hotel Splendide Royal or Villa Principe Leopoldo. Extraordinary lake views. Approx 150 to 500 CHF. Locarno or Ascona, Night 2 Hotel La Palma or Hotel Castello Seeschloss, Ascona. Approx 130 to 400 CHF.
Top Tips
1. Ticino has a Mediterranean climate. Pack lighter than for the rest of Switzerland. Evenings stay warm through October.
2. The Lugano lakefront is at its finest at 7am before the day visitors arrive. The light on the water and the hills is extraordinary.
3. The Brissago Islands tropical garden is the finest hidden gem on Lake Maggiore. Visit on a Tuesday morning when it is quietest.
4. Bellinzona's three castles can all be visited in one day. Castelgrande has the finest restaurant; Sasso Corbaro the finest views.
5. Locarno Film Festival runs every August. The open-air screenings on the Piazza Grande seat 8,000 people under the stars.
6. Ticino wine is the most underrated in Switzerland. The local Merlot del Ticino is extraordinary and costs a fraction of Burgundy.
Total Budget
120 to 200 CHF/day