Telemark
5
Day Itinerary •
Norway
Five days in Telemark give you the full extraordinary sweep of Norway's most overlooked inland region, from the UNESCO stave churches and the extraordinary Telemark Canal to the WWII heavy water sabotage site at Rjukan, the Gaustatoppen summit cable railway, the extraordinary Hardangervidda plateau, and the ancient Setesdal valley with its remarkable silver jewellery tradition and the extraordinary medieval church art of Valle. This route covers the complete Telemark and its surrounding regions. The Heddal and Eidsborg stave churches, the full Telemark Canal from Skien to Dalen, Rjukan and the Vemork heavy water sabotage museum, the Gaustatoppen cable railway and the extraordinary Hardangervidda wilderness plateau, and the extraordinary Setesdal valley with its silver craft tradition and the Bykle mountain church.
Best Time To Visit
May to October. Canal boats run June to August.
Getting There
Drive from Oslo 2 hours to Notodden. Car essential throughout.
Getting Around
Car essential throughout for all destinations in Telemark
Budget Per Day
Approx 800 to 1,600 NOK per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate. Gaustatoppen cable railway accessible.
DAY 1
NOTODDEN AND TELEMARK
MORNING
HEDDAL STAVE CHURCH AND EIDSBORG
Heddal Stave Church near Notodden is the largest stave church in Norway, its extraordinary triple-nave structure dating from around 1150 the finest surviving medieval wooden building in the country. The extraordinary dragon-head roof ornaments, the carved portals depicting the Sigurd legend and the remarkable bishop's chair from 1150 are outstanding. The Eidsborg Stave Church south of Heddal, a smaller medieval church in extraordinary original condition on a hill above the lake, is the finest hidden stave church in Telemark. Heddal entry approx 100 NOK. Travel: 30 min drive to Skien
MIDDAY
SKIEN, IBSEN'S BIRTHPLACE
Skien is the most extraordinary literary heritage city in Telemark, the birthplace of Henrik Ibsen in 1828 and the city whose extraordinary social atmosphere gave him the material for his greatest plays. The Ibsen Museum at Venstøp farm, where the young Ibsen grew up, gives the finest insight into the psychological origins of Ghosts, Hedda Gabler and A Doll's House. The extraordinary Skien city canal and the remarkable Norsjø lake give the finest introduction to the Telemark waterway. Travel: 30 min drive to canal
AFTERNOON
THE TELEMARK CANAL LOCKS AT LØVEID
The Loveid lock complex below Skien is the most extraordinary starting point for the Telemark Canal, its extraordinary triple-chamber lock system raising boats 7.2 metres in a single sequence. The canal begins here and the extraordinary system of 18 locks over 105km that connects the Telemark valleys to the sea is the finest inland waterway engineering in Scandinavia. The lock keeper houses at Loveid are the finest historic buildings on the canal.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Brevik fortress island in the Frierfjord below Skien is the most extraordinary hidden fortress in Telemark, the 17th-century island fortification guarding the entrance to the Telemark waterway entirely free to visit by small boat. The extraordinary Langangen strait between the island and the mainland gives the finest view of the canal entrance. The most extraordinary hidden waterway landmark in Telemark.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bakeri near Notodden Early coffee and bread before the extraordinary stave church. | Lunch: Cafe at Heddal Stave Church Outstanding cafe beside the medieval church. Local Norwegian food. | Dinner: Restaurant in Skien Outstanding Telemark restaurant. Local trout and traditional Telemark dishes.
DAY 2
THE FULL TELEMARK CANAL
MORNING
THE FULL TELEMARK CANAL, SKIEN TO DALEN
The extraordinary full-day boat journey from Skien to Dalen on the Telemark Canal passes through all 18 locks over 105km in approximately 9 hours, the extraordinary passage through the Kviteseid, Norsjø and Bandak lakes and the remarkable mountain scenery of upper Telemark giving the finest slow travel experience in Norway. The boat stops at Ulefoss and Kviteseid for short walks. The extraordinary Dalen Hotel at the western end is the finest destination on the canal. Book well in advance. Travel: On the boat
MIDDAY
CANAL VILLAGES AND LOCK STOPS
The canal stops at Ulefoss and Kviteseid give extraordinary views of the finest traditional Norwegian canal villages. Ulefoss Manor, the most extraordinary 18th-century estate in Telemark, overlooks the canal from its extraordinary hill position. The Kviteseid village church is the finest medieval church on the canal route. The extraordinary Vrådal lake district visible from the upper canal gives the most dramatic mountain backdrop on the entire waterway. Travel: Arriving Dalen late afternoon
AFTERNOON
DALEN AND THE DRAGON HOTEL
The extraordinary Dalen Hotel at the western terminus of the canal, built in 1894 in Norwegian Dragon Style with its remarkable carved wooden facades and turrets, is the finest historic hotel in inland Norway. The hotel is open to all visitors. The extraordinary Bandak lake stretching westward from Dalen gives the finest view from the canal end, the mountains above the lake visible from the hotel terrace. The Dalen canal lock at the hotel steps is the final lock on the waterway.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Vrangfoss lock complex between Norsjø and Kviteseid is the most extraordinary engineering on the Telemark Canal, five chambers raising boats 23 metres in a single flight, the greatest single lock rise in Norway. The extraordinary lock keepers cottage and the machinery house date from 1892. The finest single engineering spectacle on the canal.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Early breakfast in Skien Before the canal boat departs. The boat has a basic cafe for the journey. | Lunch: Canal boat cafe Norwegian packed lunch and hot drinks on the extraordinary all-day canal journey. | Dinner: Dalen Hotel Restaurant Outstanding hotel restaurant at the extraordinary Dragon Style hotel. Local trout.
DAY 3
RJUKAN AND GAUSTATOPPEN
MORNING
THE VEMORK HEAVY WATER SABOTAGE MUSEUM
The Norwegian Industrial Workers Museum at Vemork above Rjukan tells the most extraordinary resistance story in occupied Europe, the remarkable Norwegian and British commando operation that destroyed the German heavy water programme in 1943, setting back the Nazi nuclear weapons project by years. The original Vemork power station contains extraordinary authentic sabotage equipment, original German documents and remarkable film of the operation. The famous Norwegian commandos are depicted in extraordinary detail. Entry approx 180 NOK. Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE GAUSTATOPPEN CABLE RAILWAY
The Gaustabanens cable railway inside the Gaustatoppen mountain, built by NATO in 1961, rises 850 metres through the rock in 7 minutes to emerge on the 1,883-metre summit plateau. The extraordinary panorama covers one sixth of Norway on clear days, from the Oslofjord to the Hardangervidda. The extraordinary steel summit tower gives the finest single viewpoint in southern Norway. The summit is extraordinary in all seasons. Cable railway approx 400 NOK return. Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
RJUKAN AND THE KROSSOBANEN
Rjukan town in the deep Vestfjord valley below Gaustatoppen receives no direct sunlight for half the year, its extraordinary location giving rise to both the Krossobanen cable car, built in 1928 to give workers access to daylight, and the Solspeilet sun mirror system installed in 2013 to reflect sunlight into the town square. The Krossobanen gives the finest view over the extraordinary valley below. The remarkable story of Rjukan as an industrial town built by Norsk Hydro is outstanding. Krossobanen approx 130 NOK.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Krokan viewpoint above Rjukan gives the most extraordinary view of the Solspeilet sun mirrors and the narrow Vestfjord valley below Gaustatoppen entirely free from the Krossobanen upper station. The extraordinary narrow valley with the industrial town below and the Gaustatoppen above is the finest single landscape in Telemark. The Rjukan town at night in winter with the mirrors lit is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel Gaustablikk Mountain hotel breakfast before the Vemork museum. | Lunch: Gaustatoppen summit cafe Outstanding coffee at 1,883m. One sixth of Norway visible on a clear day. | Dinner: Restaurant in Rjukan Outstanding Telemark. Local trout and reindeer from the Hardangervidda.
DAY 4
HARDANGERVIDDA AND SETESDAL
MORNING
THE HARDANGERVIDDA PLATEAU WALK
The Hardangervidda plateau is the largest mountain plateau in northern Europe at 8,000 square kilometres and 1,100 to 1,400 metres above sea level, the extraordinary tundra landscape home to the largest wild reindeer herd in Europe. The plateau is accessible from the Rjukan side via the Mael road. Even a 2-hour walk from the road into the extraordinary open plateau gives the finest wilderness experience in southern Norway. The Hardangervidda National Park visitor centre at Eidfjord is outstanding. Travel: 1.5 hour drive to Eidfjord
MIDDAY
THE VORINGSFOSSEN WATERFALL
The Voringsfossen above Eidfjord drops 182 metres into the extraordinary Mabodalen gorge, the most extraordinary single waterfall in western Norway. The road from the plateau descends through the extraordinary Mabodalen with the waterfall visible from multiple viewpoints. The new Voringsfossen visitor centre gives the finest view from the cliff edge above the falls. The extraordinary Eidfjord village below with its turquoise water is outstanding. Visitor centre entry free. Travel: 45 min drive to Hovden
AFTERNOON
DRIVE TO HOVDEN VIA THE SETESDAL
The drive from Eidfjord to Hovden at the top of the Setesdal valley crosses the extraordinary Hardangervidda plateau, passes the remarkable Trollfoss waterfall and descends into the extraordinary Setesdal valley, the finest traditional valley in southern Norway. The extraordinary farm buildings with their extraordinary painted decorations in the Setesdal Husflid folk art tradition are the finest in southern Norway. Hovden at the top of the valley is the finest mountain village base.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Krokan and Mabodalen gorge walk below the Voringsfossen is the most extraordinary gorge walk in western Norway, the extraordinary path descending 500 metres through the Mabodalen alongside the waterfall. The extraordinary view from the gorge bottom looking up at the 182-metre drop is the finest waterfall perspective in Norway. Walk takes approximately 2 hours return from the visitor centre. Entirely free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel Gaustablikk or Rjukan Early breakfast before the plateau drive. | Lunch: Hardangervidda National Park Centre Outstanding cafe at the plateau visitor centre. Local mountain food. | Dinner: Hovden Fjellstoge Outstanding mountain hotel restaurant. Local reindeer and Setesdal trout.
DAY 5
SETESDAL SILVER AND STAVE CHURCHES
MORNING
VALLE AND THE SETESDAL SILVER TRADITION
Valle is the most extraordinary craft village in the Setesdal valley, its remarkable silversmith tradition producing the finest regional silver jewellery in Norway, the extraordinary Setesdal bunad national costume silver ornaments among the most complex in the country. The Valle silversmith workshops are open to visitors, the extraordinary hand-forged silver belts and brooches available directly from the makers. The Valle open-air museum gives the finest insight into Setesdal folk art. Museum entry approx 80 NOK. Travel: 30 min drive to Bykle
MIDDAY
BYKLE AND THE MEDIEVAL CHURCH ART
The Bykle stave church in the upper Setesdal is the most extraordinary stave church in southern Norway after Heddal, its extraordinary 13th-century construction and the remarkable original medieval paintings discovered beneath later whitewash giving the finest medieval church art in the valley. The extraordinary Bykle village with its traditional Setesdal farms is outstanding. The Bykle museum at Huldreheimen tells the extraordinary story of life in the isolated valley before the road was built. Entry approx 80 NOK. Travel: 1 hour drive to Hovden
AFTERNOON
HOVDEN AND THE SETESDAL RETURN
The final afternoon at Hovden at the head of the Setesdal valley gives the extraordinary mountain panorama over the plateau and the valley below. The Hovden cable car gives the finest single view over the entire Setesdal. The extraordinary drive back down the Setesdal valley from Hovden to the E18 coastal road is the finest farewell to the inland valleys of southern Norway, the extraordinary traditional Setesdal farms and the remarkable lake scenery outstanding throughout.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Reiarsfoss waterfall in the upper Setesdal above Valle is the most extraordinary hidden waterfall in southern Norway, its extraordinary 80-metre drop entirely unmarked on most tourist maps and accessible by a 30-minute walk from the Rysstad road. Entirely free. The finest hidden waterfall in the Setesdal valley.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hovden Fjellstoge Mountain breakfast before the final Setesdal day. | Lunch: Restaurant in Valle Outstanding Setesdal restaurant. Local smoked leg of lamb and traditional Setesdal food. | Dinner: Farewell dinner in Hovden Outstanding final dinner. Local reindeer, trout and traditional Norwegian cuisine.
Where To Stay
Notodden or Bolkesjo, Night 1 Bolkesjø Turisthotel or Quality Hotel Notodden. Approx 900 to 1,600 NOK. Rjukan, Nights 2 to 3 Gaustablikk Hogfjellshotell or Rjukan Fjellhotell. Approx 900 to 1,800 NOK. Hovden, Nights 4 to 5 Hovden Fjellstoge or Hovden Badeland. Top of Setesdal. Approx 800 to 1,500 NOK.
Top Tips
1. The Heddal Stave Church at 8am before any visitors is the most extraordinary medieval experience in inland Norway.
2. Book the Telemark Canal boat in advance. The full-day Skien to Dalen journey is the finest slow travel in Norway.
3. The Gaustatoppen cable railway through the mountain is one of the most extraordinary engineering experiences in Norway.
4. The Vemork sabotage museum is the finest WWII museum in Norway outside Oslo. Book ahead in peak season.
5. The Setesdal silver jewellery tradition is the finest regional craft in Norway. Buy directly from silversmiths in Valle.
6. The Hardangervidda plateau is the largest in northern Europe. Even a 2-hour walk from the road gives extraordinary solitude.
Total Budget
800 to 1,600 NOK/day