Sardinia
3
Day Itinerary •
Italy
Sardinia is the most ancient and mysterious destination in Italy. The second largest island in the Mediterranean has been inhabited for 10,000 years and its Bronze Age civilisation, the Nuragic people, built thousands of extraordinary stone towers unlike anything else in Europe. The island also has some of the finest beaches and clearest water in the entire Mediterranean. This 3-day route goes beyond the Costa Smeralda yacht crowd entirely. The extraordinary capital of Cagliari with its Phoenician, Roman and Pisan layers. The prehistoric nuraghe towers and sacred well temples of the mysterious Nuragic civilisation that left no written language. And the wild Gulf of Orosei coastline, accessible only by boat or on foot, with some of the most extraordinary coves in the Mediterranean.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Cagliari (CAG) or Olbia (OLB)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 130 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
CAGLIARI
MORNING
CAGLIARI CASTELLO, THE PISAN CITADEL ABOVE THE CITY
Cagliari is one of the most extraordinary and overlooked capital cities in Italy. The Castello district perched on its hilltop above the rest of the city was built by the Pisans in the 13th century and the medieval walls, towers and cathedral are extraordinary. The Bastione di Saint Remy, a magnificent terrace at the edge of the citadel, gives the finest panoramic view over the city and its lagoon system, the largest in Italy. Almost entirely visited by locals rather than tourists. Drive: 20 min walk down to Roman quarter
MIDDAY
THE ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE AND ANCIENT CAGLIARI
The Roman amphitheatre at Cagliari is the largest and best preserved in Sardinia, carved directly into the limestone hillside below the Castello. The Phoenician and Punic necropolis of Tuvixeddu on the western edge of the city is the largest ancient Phoenician necropolis in the world, with rock-cut chamber tombs from the 7th century BC. The Museo Nazionale Archeologico contains the finest Nuragic bronze figurines in Sardinia. Entry to museum approx 5 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to lagoon
AFTERNOON
THE CAGLIARI LAGOONS AND FLAMINGOS
Cagliari is surrounded by a system of coastal lagoons that support one of the largest flamingo populations in Europe. The Molentargius lagoon, just 10 minutes from the city centre, hosts between 10,000 and 15,000 flamingos year-round. Cycling paths circle the lagoon and the pink flamingos against the backdrop of the city skyline are extraordinary. Entry to the nature reserve is free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Santuario di Nostra Signora di Bonaria, the patron saint of Sardinia and navigator, contains a statue of the Virgin that, according to tradition, arrived on the sea in a sealed crate from Spain in 1370. Christopher Columbus visited before his voyage to America and named a settlement in Cuba after this church. Free entry.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe Torino, Cagliari The most beautiful traditional cafe in Cagliari on the Via Roma since 1921. Excellent espresso and local mirto pastries. | Lunch: Trattoria Lillicu, Cagliari The most beloved traditional restaurant in Cagliari. Culurgiones (Sardinian filled pasta), bottarga and local Vermentino wine. | Dinner: Osteria del Castello, Cagliari Outstanding restaurant in the Castello citadel. Modern Sardinian cuisine and the finest local wine list in the city.
DAY 2
NURAGIC SARDINIA
MORNING
SU NURAXI DI BARUMINI, THE UNESCO BRONZE AGE VILLAGE
Su Nuraxi di Barumini is the most important and best preserved nuraghe complex in Sardinia, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A central tower from 1500 BC surrounded by a village of circular stone huts, the whole complex built without mortar and still standing after 3,500 years. The Nuragic civilisation built over 7,000 of these towers across Sardinia between 1800 and 500 BC and left no written records. Their language and religion remain completely unknown. Entry approx 15 euros including guided tour. Drive: 40 min drive to Santa Cristina
MIDDAY
SANTA CRISTINA, THE SACRED WELL TEMPLE
The Nuragic sacred well temple at Santa Cristina is the finest example of an extraordinary architectural achievement. A perfectly constructed stone well shaft descending 6 metres below the ground, with a corbelled stone ceiling creating a perfect dome above the water. Twice a year the full moon shines directly down the shaft to illuminate the water below. The engineering precision required for this is extraordinary. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Nuoro area
AFTERNOON
ORGOSOLO, THE VILLAGE OF POLITICAL MURALS
Orgosolo is a mountain village in the Barbagia region of central Sardinia that became famous in the 1960s for a tradition of political murals covering every exterior wall of the village. Over 150 murals now cover the buildings, telling the political and social history of Sardinia and the world in vivid paintings. The village is the traditional heart of the Sardinian bandit culture and is entirely authentic. Free to walk through.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Nuragic bronze figurines in the Cagliari archaeological museum are the most extraordinary objects in Sardinia. Tiny detailed bronzes of warriors, priests, animals and boats from 1000 to 700 BC show a sophisticated culture of which almost nothing else is known. The craftsmanship rivals anything produced in the ancient Mediterranean world.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Barumini village The village has a small bar. Coffee before the guided nuraghe tour which starts at 9am. | Lunch: Trattoria Sa Lolla, Barumini Outstanding traditional Sardinian cuisine. Roast suckling pig (porceddu), local cheeses and Cannonau wine. | Dinner: Ristorante Monte Maccione, Oliena Extraordinary mountain restaurant above the Supramonte canyon. Local lamb, pasta and views to the sea.
DAY 3
GULF OF OROSEI
MORNING
CALA GONONE AND THE BOAT TO THE HIDDEN COVES
The Gulf of Orosei has the most extraordinary coastline in Sardinia. A 40km stretch of sheer limestone cliffs dropping directly into turquoise water, accessible only by boat or on foot. The morning boat from Cala Gonone makes multiple stops including the extraordinary Cala Luna, a perfect arc of white sand backed by a freshwater spring cave, and the Grotta del Bue Marino, a sea cave home to the last Mediterranean monk seals until the 1980s. Book the boat trip in advance from approx 25 euros. Drive: Boat tour then afternoon walk
MIDDAY
CALA LUNA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACH IN SARDINIA
Cala Luna is consistently voted the most beautiful beach in Sardinia. A perfect arc of white pebbles and sand backed by a series of freshwater spring caves where water trickles from the limestone. The turquoise water is extraordinarily clear. Accessible only by boat or by a 3-hour clifftop walk from Cala Fuili, it has no road access and no permanent development. Spend at least 2 hours. Drive: Boat back to Cala Gonone
AFTERNOON
GORROPU GORGE, EUROPE'S DEEPEST CANYON
The Gola di Gorropu is the deepest canyon in Europe and one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in the Mediterranean. The canyon walls rise 500 metres above a narrow gorge floor of enormous boulders through which a stream runs. The walk from the Flumineddu river crossing into the gorge takes 45 minutes and the gorge itself can be walked for 2km before the canyon closes completely. Free to enter, moderately strenuous.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The walk from Cala Fuili to Cala Luna along the clifftop takes 3 hours and is one of the finest coastal walks in Italy. The path runs 200 metres above the sea with extraordinary views along the Gulf of Orosei coastline. Bring water, non-slip shoes and start early to avoid the heat. The walk is free and returns by boat from Cala Luna.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Cala Gonone harbour Coffee at the harbour before the morning boat departs. Watch the boats being prepared. | Lunch: Picnic on Cala Luna beach Bring food from Cala Gonone. There are no facilities on the beach. The setting is extraordinary. | Dinner: Ristorante Il Pescatore, Cala Gonone The finest fish restaurant in Cala Gonone. Fresh catch from the gulf and local Cannonau wine.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Cagliari, Night 1 Hotel Regina Margherita, elegant hotel on the waterfront promenade. Approx 100 to 160 euros per night. Oliena or Orgosolo, Night 2 Su Gologone Hotel, extraordinary spa hotel below the Supramonte. Approx 130 to 200 euros per night. Budget Option Cagliari: Hotel Aurora from approx 55 euros. Cala Gonone: Hotel Pop from approx 70 euros.
Top Tips
1. Book the Gulf of Orosei morning boat at least 2 days ahead in summer. It fills up extremely fast.
2. Cala Luna has no facilities. Bring all food, water and sun protection for the full day.
3. The nuraghe guided tour at Su Nuraxi is the only way to enter. Book in advance at barduminiturismo.it.
4. Sardinian porceddu (roast suckling pig) is best in the Barbagia mountain villages, not on the coast.
5. Cannonau di Sardegna red wine is one of the healthiest wines in the world. Sardinia has more centenarians per capita than anywhere on earth.
6. The flamingo lagoons around Cagliari are best in the early morning when the birds feed close to shore.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day