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Salzburg

5

Day Itinerary •

Austria

Five days in Salzburg and its surrounds give you the full extraordinary sweep of the finest small city in the Alps and the spectacular lake and mountain country that surrounds it. From the extraordinary Baroque old town and the Hohensalzburg fortress to Hallstatt and the Dachstein glacier, the Berchtesgaden Eagle's Nest above Germany, the extraordinary Salzkammergut lakes, and the Sound of Music country that made Salzburg famous worldwide. This route covers the complete Salzburg region. The old town's extraordinary cathedral and palaces, Mozart's birthplace and residence, Hellbrunn's trick fountains, the Untersberg cable car, Hallstatt and the world's oldest salt mine, the Berchtesgaden National Park and Konigssee, the extraordinary Wolfgangsee and Mondsee, and the hidden lake villages of the Salzkammergut that most visitors never reach.

Best Time To Visit

April to October or December

Getting There

Fly into Salzburg or Munich, train 1.5 hours

Getting Around

zburg Card for city. Car recommended for Salzkammergut and Berchtesgaden day trips

Budget Per Day

Approx 90 to 160 euros per person per day

Difficulity

Easy to moderate, walking and day trips

DAY 1

SALZBURG OLD TOWN

MORNING

SALZBURG OLD TOWN AND THE CATHEDRAL

Salzburg's old town is the finest Baroque city north of the Alps, its extraordinary domed cathedral, archbishop's residence and monastery complex a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Dom, consecrated in 1628, is the finest Baroque church in Austria, its frescoed ceiling and four bronze entrance doors extraordinary. The Petersfriedhof cemetery behind the monastery, with its rock chapels carved into the cliff face, is the most extraordinary medieval cemetery in Central Europe. Tower entry approx 6 euros. Travel: 15 min walk

MIDDAY

THE RESIDENZ, GETREIDEGASSE AND MOZART

The Residenz palace's extraordinary frescoed state rooms, the Getreidegasse with its extraordinary wrought-iron guild signs, and Mozart's Birthplace at number 9 are the three essential sights of Salzburg's old town. The Kollegienkirche by Fischer von Erlach is the finest Baroque church facade in Austria. The right bank across the Salzach contains the Dreifaltigkeitskirche, the Mirabell Palace and gardens, and the extraordinary panorama over the domed old town from the Kapuzinerberg. Travel: 20 min walk

AFTERNOON

THE MIRABELLGARTEN AND KAPUZINERBERG

The Mirabellgarten is the finest Baroque formal garden in Salzburg, its extraordinary sculptures, parterres and fountain giving the most famous view of the old town. The Kapuzinerberg above the right bank is the most extraordinary hidden viewpoint in Salzburg, a 20-minute climb through a wooded hill to the Capuchin monastery giving views over the entire city. The fortification walls on the Kapuzinerberg, built in 1622, are extraordinary. The hill is entirely free to climb.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Petersfriedhof cemetery of St Peter's monastery is the most extraordinary medieval cemetery in Austria, its rock chapels carved directly into the Festungsberg cliff face and graves dating from the 7th century. The catacombs cut into the cliff are the oldest Christian site in Salzburg. Cemetery free. Catacombs approx 2 euros. The most extraordinary hidden space in the old town.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe Tomaselli The oldest coffee house in Austria since 1703. Coffee and extraordinary Salzburg cakes. | Lunch: Stiftskeller St Peter The oldest restaurant in Central Europe, established 803 AD in the monastery. Local trout and wine. | Dinner: Restaurant Zum Mohren Outstanding traditional Salzburg. Local venison and Styrian wine.

DAY 2

HOHENSALZBURG AND HELLBRUNN

MORNING

THE HOHENSALZBURG FORTRESS

The Hohensalzburg fortress is the largest fully preserved medieval castle in Central Europe, its extraordinary state rooms with Gothic wooden ceilings, its collection of medieval weapons and its panorama over Salzburg and the Alps the finest in the region. The Golden Chamber of the Archbishop's state rooms is one of the finest Gothic interiors in Austria. The Rainer Regiment Museum within the fortress tells the extraordinary story of Salzburg's military history. Funicular and fortress entry approx 16 euros. Travel: 30 min bus to Hellbrunn

MIDDAY

HELLBRUNN PALACE AND TRICK FOUNTAINS

Hellbrunn Palace built in 1615 contains the most extraordinary trick fountains in Europe, water jets concealed in stone seats and table jets designed to drench the archbishop's guests. The extraordinary mechanical theatre with 141 water-powered figures has been operating since 1750. The Sound of Music gazebo stands in the grounds. The palace interior with its extraordinary trompe-l'oeil frescoed rooms is outstanding. Entry approx 14 euros. Travel: 30 min cable car to Untersberg

AFTERNOON

THE UNTERSBERG SUMMIT

The Untersberg at 1,853 metres on the Austrian-German border south of Salzburg gives the most extraordinary panorama over Salzburg, the Bavarian plain and the Northern Alps. The cable car from Grunberg takes 8 minutes. The summit plateau limestone walk gives extraordinary views. Emperor Karl V is said to sleep in the mountain until Germany needs him. The cable car return is approx 26 euros. The summit is accessible June to October.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Mozart Wohnhaus on the Makartplatz is the less-visited Mozart museum in Salzburg, the family's second home where Mozart lived from age 17 and composed many of his greatest works. Less crowded than the birthplace and containing the finest collection of original Mozart manuscripts in the city. Entry approx 12 euros. Combine with the birthplace for the extraordinary dual ticket at approx 18 euros.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe Bazar, Salzburg Outstanding art deco cafe on the Salzach with the finest fortress view from a terrace. | Lunch: Restaurant Sternbrau Outstanding Salzburg brewery. Local Stiegl beer and traditional Austrian food. | Dinner: Esszimmer, Salzburg Two Michelin stars. The finest restaurant in Salzburg. Book weeks ahead.

DAY 3

HALLSTATT

MORNING

HALLSTATT VILLAGE AND THE CHARNEL HOUSE

Hallstatt is the most photographed village in the world, its extraordinary pastel houses on a cliff above the emerald lake with the Dachstein glacier behind. The village has been inhabited for 7,000 years and gives its name to the entire Hallstatt period of European prehistory. The extraordinary Charnel House beside the parish church contains 1,200 decorated skulls, many painted with flowers and the name of the deceased, the most extraordinary medieval tradition still practised in Austria. Free. Travel: 30 min funicular to salt mine

MIDDAY

THE HALLSTATT SALT MINE

The Hallstatt salt mine above the village is the oldest salt mine in the world, its extraordinary underground chambers and the prehistoric miners' tools on display revealing 3,500 years of continuous salt extraction. The wooden miner's slide, used to descend between levels for centuries, is extraordinary. The underground lake and the prehistoric preservation of organic materials in the salt are outstanding. The museum at the entrance contains the finest Celtic artefacts in Austria. Entry approx 30 euros. Travel: 45 min drive

AFTERNOON

THE DACHSTEIN ICE CAVES

The Dachstein ice caves above Obertraun are the most extraordinary cave system in the Salzkammergut, the Giant Ice Cave containing extraordinary ice formations up to 500 years old and the Mammoth Cave extending 44km into the limestone. The cable car to the cave entrance gives extraordinary views of the Dachstein glacier. The ice cathedral at the heart of the Giant Ice Cave is the most extraordinary natural space in Austria. Entry approx 15 euros plus cable car.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Hallstatt viewpoint on the opposite shore of the lake at Hallstatt West is the most photographed spot in Austria, the classic postcard view of the village reflected in the lake with the Dachstein behind. Reached by the free ferry from Hallstatt village in 3 minutes or by road. Most extraordinary at dawn before the day visitors arrive by boat from Hallstatt station.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Gasthof Simony, Hallstatt Coffee on the most beautiful lakefront in Austria before the first boats arrive. | Lunch: Restaurant Braugasthof, Hallstatt Outstanding village restaurant. Local lake fish and Salzkammergut white wine. | Dinner: Heritage Hotel Hallstatt Outstanding hotel restaurant in the village. Stay overnight for the extraordinary early morning lake.

DAY 4

BERCHTESGADEN

MORNING

THE EAGLE'S NEST, BERCHTESGADEN

The Kehlsteinhaus, known as the Eagle's Nest, stands at 1,834 metres above Berchtesgaden, built in 1938 as a gift to Hitler and now the most extraordinary mountain building in the Alps. The bus from Berchtesgaden climbs the extraordinary mountain road to the tunnel, from which a brass-lined lift rises 124 metres through the rock to the summit building. The panorama over the Berchtesgaden valley and the Salzburg Alps is extraordinary. Bus and lift return approx 32 euros. Open mid-May to October. Travel: 30 min bus to Konigssee

MIDDAY

THE KONIGSSEE, THE DEEPEST ALPINE LAKE

The Konigssee is the most extraordinary lake in the German Alps, its deep fjord-like waters enclosed on all sides by vertical cliffs rising to 2,700 metres. The electric boat from Schonau takes 35 minutes to St Bartholomew, the extraordinary pilgrimage church on a promontory with no road access. At the Echo Horn point the boatman plays a trumpet fanfare, the echo returning from the cliffs in extraordinary clarity. The Obersee extension beyond is extraordinary. Boat return approx 20 euros. Travel: 45 min drive back to Salzburg

AFTERNOON

BERCHTESGADEN OLD TOWN AND SALT MINE

Berchtesgaden's old town contains the extraordinary Collegiate Church and the Residenz palace of the Wittelsbach family, one of the finest medieval collections in Bavaria. The Berchtesgaden salt mine, the oldest in Germany, gives extraordinary underground tours with a boat ride on an underground lake. The mine museum tells the extraordinary story of the salt trade that financed the entire region. Salt mine entry approx 22 euros.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Dokumentation Obersalzberg museum in Berchtesgaden is the most comprehensive documentation of the Nazi regime in any single museum in Germany, built on the site of the Obersalzberg compound where Hitler and his inner circle had their Alpine retreats. The underground bunker system is extraordinary. Entry approx 10 euros. The most important historical site in the Salzburg region.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe in Berchtesgaden Coffee in the town before the bus to the Eagle's Nest. The first bus gives the clearest views. | Lunch: Restaurant am Konigssee Outstanding lakeside restaurant at the Konigssee. Local trout and Bavarian white beer. | Dinner: Restaurant Zum Hirschen, Salzburg Outstanding traditional Salzburg on return. Local venison and Gruner Veltliner.

DAY 5

WOLFGANGSEE AND MONDSEE

MORNING

ST GILGEN AND THE WOLFGANGSEE

St Gilgen on the Wolfgangsee is the most extraordinary village in the Salzkammergut, the birthplace of Mozart's mother and the home of his sister Nannerl after her marriage. The extraordinary lake itself, 10km long with the extraordinary Schafberg mountain rising to 1,783 metres directly above, gives the finest lake scenery in the Salzkammergut. The Schafberg steam railway from St Wolfgang, featured in The Sound of Music, takes 40 minutes to the extraordinary summit panorama. Train approx 36 euros return. Travel: 30 min drive

MIDDAY

ST WOLFGANG AND THE PACHER ALTARPIECE

St Wolfgang on the Wolfgangsee contains the most extraordinary late Gothic altarpiece in Austria, the Michael Pacher Altarpiece of 1481 in the parish church, its extraordinary carved and gilded panels the finest example of late Gothic woodcarving in the German-speaking world. The White Horse Inn on the lake gave its name to the famous operetta. The village lake promenade is the finest in the Salzkammergut. The Pacher Altarpiece is free to view. Travel: 30 min drive

AFTERNOON

MONDSEE AND THE SOUND OF MUSIC CHURCH

Mondsee is the warmest lake in the Salzkammergut and the site of the extraordinary Mondsee Abbey church, the yellow and white Baroque church used for the wedding scene in The Sound of Music. The extraordinary frescoed interior and the late Gothic stone carvings are outstanding. The Mondsee village promenade on the extraordinary lake is the finest on this shore. The Mondseeland Museum tells the extraordinary story of the prehistoric lake dwelling culture of the Salzkammergut.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Fuschlsee east of Salzburg is the most extraordinary undiscovered lake in the Salzkammergut, its extraordinary clear water and the Fuschl Castle on its shore almost entirely unknown to international visitors. The lake is 30 minutes from Salzburg and has no large hotels, only small family guesthouses on the shore. Swimming free at all public beaches. The finest hidden lake in the Salzburg region.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe in St Gilgen Coffee on the Wolfgangsee shore before the Schafberg steam train. | Lunch: Weisses Roessl, St Wolfgang The original White Horse Inn. Local pike and Salzkammergut white wine on the extraordinary lake. | Dinner: Restaurant in Salzburg Outstanding farewell dinner in the old town. Local Tafelspitz and the finest Austrian Gruner Veltliner.

Where To Stay

Old Town, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Sacher Salzburg or Goldener Hirsch. Walking distance to everything. Approx 120 to 400 euros. Hallstatt, Night 3 Heritage Hotel Hallstatt or Gasthof Simony. Stay in the village itself. Approx 100 to 300 euros. Salzburg, Nights 4 to 5 Return to Salzburg base. Hotel Stadtkrug or IMLAUER. Approx 70 to 160 euros per night.

Top Tips

1. Stay in Hallstatt overnight. The village empties of day visitors by 6pm and the early morning lake light is extraordinary.
2. The Eagle's Nest bus runs only from mid-May. Book tickets at the Berchtesgaden visitor centre as early as possible.
3. The Getreidegasse at 7am before the tour groups: Mozart's birthplace, extraordinary guild signs, entirely to yourself.
4. The Hohensalzburg first funicular of the day gives the fortress entirely alone. Extraordinary early morning light on the Alps.
5. Buy genuine Mozartkugeln only from Konditorei Furst on the Brodgasse. Avoid the mass-produced versions from souvenir shops.
6. The Konigssee electric boat to St Bartholomew is the finest boat journey in Bavaria. The echo horn demonstration is extraordinary.

Total Budget

90 to 160 euros/day

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