Sahara Desert
5
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Five days crossing Morocco to the Sahara Desert takes you through one of the most extraordinary road journeys in the world: over the High Atlas through the Tizi n'Tichka pass, past the extraordinary earthen kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou, through the remarkable Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs along the Dades and Todra gorges, and finally to the extraordinary Erg Chebbi dunes of Merzouga, where the Sahara begins. This route covers the classic southern Morocco circuit. The Tichka pass and Ait Ben Haddou, the extraordinary Dades gorge and its rose-red kasbahs, the dramatic Todra gorge where 300-metre limestone walls close to 10 metres apart, the Tafilalt oasis and the camel trek to a desert camp beneath the extraordinary Erg Chebbi dunes.
Best Time To Visit
October to April
Getting There
Fly into Marrakech (RAK) or Ouarzazate (OZZ)
Getting Around
Rental car or private driver essential
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, one camel trek to camp
DAY 1
TICHKA PASS AND AIT BEN HADDOU
MORNING
TIZI N'TICHKA PASS AND THE HIGH ATLAS
The Tizi n'Tichka pass at 2,260 metres is the highest road pass in Morocco, the extraordinary drive from Marrakech crossing landscapes of pink-red earth, Berber villages of mud brick and the extraordinary panorama of the Atlas range stretching east and west. The pass road is one of the finest drives in Africa. Stop at the Tichka summit for the extraordinary view south over the pre-Saharan plains. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
AIT BEN HADDOU, THE FINEST KASBAH IN MOROCCO
Ait Ben Haddou is the most extraordinary earthen kasbah in Morocco, its UNESCO World Heritage Site of rose-red pisé towers rising from the banks of the Mellah river. The fortified village, used as a filming location for Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Game of Thrones, is best explored in the afternoon when the light warms the extraordinary walls. Cross the river on foot and walk to the summit granary for the finest view. Entry approx 2 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
OUARZAZATE, THE DOOR OF THE DESERT
Ouarzazate sits at the junction of the Atlas and the Saharan south, its extraordinary location making it the gateway to the desert. The Taourirt Kasbah on the edge of the city, one of the largest kasbahs in Morocco, was the Glaoui tribal lord's fortress and is remarkably well preserved. The Ouarzazate film studios have hosted more major productions than almost any location outside Hollywood. Entry kasbah approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Glaoui kasbah of Telouet, 20km off the Tichka road before the pass, is one of the most remarkable and melancholy buildings in Morocco. The crumbling decorated reception rooms of the last great Berber lord are still magnificent. Entry approx 3 euros. The detour adds one hour but is among the finest sights in the Atlas.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Marrakech Early start for the Tichka pass. Tea and khobz before the mountain drive. | Lunch: Auberge opposite Ait Ben Haddou Tagine with a view of the extraordinary kasbah across the river. | Dinner: Restaurant in Ouarzazate Lamb mechoui and Berber couscous at the desert gateway.
DAY 2
DADES VALLEY AND THE ROSE FIELDS
MORNING
THE DRAA VALLEY AND THE VALLEY OF A THOUSAND KASBAHS
The drive from Ouarzazate through the Draa valley follows Morocco's longest river through the most extraordinary landscape of earthen kasbahs in the country. The Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs between Ouarzazate and Skoura passes rose-red towers, palm groves and the extraordinary Amerhidil Kasbah at Skoura, the finest preserved kasbah in the Draa. The drive through the palm oasis is extraordinary. Entry Amerhidil approx 3 euros. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
BOUMALNE DADES AND THE DADES GORGE
The Dades gorge above Boumalne cuts through extraordinary red rock formations into the High Atlas, the road climbing past the remarkable monkey fingers rock formations and the extraordinary Ait Arbi kasbah perched on the gorge walls above. The gorge is at its finest in the late afternoon when the extraordinary red rock turns to deep amber in the falling light. Walk the first 5km of the gorge road for the finest views. Entry free. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE ROSE VALLEY OF EL KELAA M'GOUNA
El Kelaa M'Gouna in the Rose Valley is the centre of Morocco's extraordinary rose oil industry, its 3,000 hectares of damask rose bushes producing the finest rose water and rose oil in the world. The extraordinary rose festival in May fills the entire valley with extraordinary colour. The rose cooperative sells remarkable rose products at source. The valley of rose gardens along the Mgoun river is beautiful at any season. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary ksar of Ait Benhaddou Ighrem near Skoura is the finest and least visited fortified village in the Draa valley, its remarkable pisé walls and towers entirely unrestored and almost always deserted. The drive through the palm groves to reach it is extraordinary. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Ouarzazate Early drive through the Draa valley. Full Moroccan breakfast. | Lunch: Amerhidil garden restaurant Tagine under the palms in the extraordinary Skoura oasis. | Dinner: Gorge guesthouse, Dades Home-cooked Berber dinner: harira, tagine and fresh bread.
DAY 3
TODRA GORGE AND THE ERG CHEBBI
MORNING
THE TODRA GORGE, THE MOST DRAMATIC CANYON IN MOROCCO
The Todra gorge has the most extraordinary canyon scenery in Morocco, its sheer limestone walls rising 300 metres above the gorge floor while narrowing to just 10 metres apart at the most dramatic point. The Todra river flows through the narrow slot in crystal clear water. The best light is at midday when the sun briefly reaches the canyon floor. The palm grove below the gorge entrance is one of the finest in southern Morocco. Entry free. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
THE TAFILALT OASIS AND THE ZIZ VALLEY
The Ziz valley south of Erfoud contains the largest palm grove in Morocco, the extraordinary Tafilalt oasis stretching for kilometres along the Ziz river. The ruined royal city of Sijilmasa nearby was once the most important city in the medieval trans-Saharan gold trade. The drive down the Ziz gorge from Rich to Erfoud is one of the most extraordinary road descents in Africa, the palm oasis appearing below as the desert begins. Free. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
ARRIVAL AT MERZOUGA AND THE ERG CHEBBI
The first view of the Erg Chebbi dunes rising from the flat hammada desert is one of the most extraordinary moments in Morocco. The dunes rise to 150 metres and extend for 22km, the extraordinary orange sand shifting in the wind and the light changing every minute as the afternoon advances. Organise the camel trek to your desert camp for sunset. The dunes at the golden hour before the sun sets are the finest sight in the Moroccan Sahara.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary fossil market at Erfoud sells the finest Devonian marine fossils in the world, the ancient seafloor of the Sahara preserved in remarkable detail. The large ammonite slabs, the trilobite specimens and the remarkable orthocone nautiloids are all outstanding. Bargain hard. The best fossil dealers are behind the main market.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Dades Early start for the Todra gorge. Light breakfast before the drive. | Lunch: Gorge cafe, Todra Simple Berber lunch in the extraordinary canyon before the desert drive. | Dinner: Desert camp dinner Tagine under the stars in the Sahara. Gnawa music and the Milky Way above.
DAY 4
DESERT DAYS AT MERZOUGA
MORNING
SUNRISE ON THE ERG CHEBBI DUNES
Wake before dawn for the camel trek back to Merzouga as the sun rises over the dunes. The extraordinary moment when the first light catches the highest dune crests and the shadows in the valleys turn from blue to gold is the finest hour in the Moroccan Sahara. Climb the highest accessible dune for the extraordinary panorama of dunes stretching to the Algerian border. The desert at dawn, before any other visitors, is extraordinary. Free. Drive: Camel trek back
MIDDAY
THE MERZOUGA DUNES AND NOMAD VILLAGES
Explore the dunes south of Merzouga on foot or by 4WD to find the extraordinary nomad encampments that are invisible from the main road. The Erg Chebbi extends south for 22km along the Algerian border and the further south the dunes become increasingly extraordinary and entirely empty of visitors. The remarkable painted rocks at Taouz, 25km south, are among the finest Neolithic rock art sites in Morocco. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE KSAR OF RISSANI AND THE ALAOUI HERITAGE
Rissani, 22km from Merzouga, was the first capital of the Alaoui dynasty that still rules Morocco today. The extraordinary Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim, the most remarkable fortified palace in the south, the Moulay Ali Cherif mausoleum and the extraordinary Thursday souk that fills the ancient market town are all outstanding. The souk sells the finest Saharan jewellery, carpets and traditional goods in the region. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Dayet Srji salt lake at the base of the Erg Chebbi, when flooded in winter, attracts remarkable flocks of flamingos from West Africa. The extraordinary pink birds against the orange dunes and the blue sky is one of the finest natural spectacles in Morocco. Best from November to February. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Desert camp breakfast Mint tea and khobz bread in the dunes at sunrise. | Lunch: Merzouga village cafe Berber omelette and fresh bread in the village below the dunes. | Dinner: Rissani souk restaurant Mechoui lamb from the wood-fired oven in the ancient market town.
DAY 5
THE RETURN JOURNEY
MORNING
FINAL DAWN IN THE DESERT AND THE RETURN NORTH
A final dawn walk to the dune crests above Merzouga before beginning the return journey. The extraordinary quality of the desert light in the early morning, the absolute silence of the hammada and the extraordinary scale of the dune sea stretching to the horizon are the finest farewell to the Sahara. Begin the drive north through the Ziz gorge and the Middle Atlas as the desert heat builds behind. Free. Drive: 3 hours drive
MIDDAY
THE ZIZ GORGE AND THE MIDDLE ATLAS CEDAR FORESTS
The return drive north through the Ziz gorge and the Middle Atlas passes through one of the most extraordinary landscape transitions in Morocco, the desert giving way to the remarkable cedar forests of Ifrane where Barbary macaques live wild in the trees. The extraordinary alpine town of Ifrane, built by the French in mock-Swiss style, is one of the most remarkable contrasts with the Sahara a few hours south. Free. Drive: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO MARRAKECH OVER THE TICHKA PASS
The final drive back over the Tizi n'Tichka pass completes the extraordinary circuit of southern Morocco. The High Atlas in the late afternoon, the snow on the peaks catching the last light as the rose-red earth of the south gives way to the green valleys below the pass, is the finest ending to the desert journey. Arrive in Marrakech as the Djemaa el-Fna comes alive for the evening. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary painted rock shelter of Foum Chenna, 40km south of Tinerhir, contains some of the finest Neolithic rock engravings in North Africa, its remarkable depictions of cattle, hunters and abstract symbols carved when the Sahara was green. Almost entirely unvisited. Ask locally for directions. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Merzouga guesthouse Final desert breakfast before the long drive north. | Lunch: Roadside cafe, Ziz gorge Simple Moroccan lunch in the extraordinary canyon oasis. | Dinner: Marrakech riad or restaurant Return to the city. The Djemaa food stalls for a final night.
Where To Stay
Ait Ben Haddou, Night 1 Guesthouse opposite the kasbah. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night. Dades or Todra, Nights 2 to 3 Gorge guesthouse with views. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night. Desert camp, Night 4 Luxury or standard camp in the Erg Chebbi dunes. Approx 80 to 200 euros.
Top Tips
1. Cross the Tizi n'Tichka pass in the morning when the light on the Atlas snowfields is extraordinary.
2. Stay in Ait Ben Haddou rather than driving through. The kasbah at sunrise with no visitors is unmissable.
3. The Dades gorge monkey fingers rock formations are best in the late afternoon golden light.
4. Todra gorge is most dramatic at midday when the sun reaches the canyon floor briefly.
5. Take a camel trek to the desert camp rather than driving. The dune walk at sunset is extraordinary.
6. The Erg Chebbi dunes at sunrise, before any other visitors are awake, are the finest hour in Morocco.
Total Budget
80 to 240 euros/day