Sahara Desert
3
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Three days to the Sahara from Marrakech takes you over the High Atlas through the extraordinary Tizi n'Tichka pass, past the finest earthen kasbah in Morocco at Ait Ben Haddou, through the dramatic Todra gorge and out to the extraordinary Erg Chebbi dunes at Merzouga where the Sahara begins and the sky at night holds more stars than you have ever seen. This is the essential southern Morocco circuit: the UNESCO kasbah, the 300-metre canyon walls of the Todra gorge, the camel trek into the dunes at sunset and one night in a desert camp before the extraordinary sunrise from the top of the Erg Chebbi brings the journey to its finest possible end.
Best Time To Visit
October to April
Getting There
Fly into Marrakech (RAK)
Getting Around
Rental car or private driver essential
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, one camel trek to camp
DAY 1
TICHKA, AIT BEN HADDOU AND TODRA
MORNING
TIZI N'TICHKA PASS AND AIT BEN HADDOU
drive Leave Marrakech early and cross the Tizi n'Tichka pass at 2,260 metres, the highest road pass in Morocco. The extraordinary drive through pink-red earth, Berber villages of mud brick and the panorama of the Atlas range is one of the finest in Africa. Ait Ben Haddou, the UNESCO World Heritage earthen kasbah, appears in the afternoon below the pass. Cross the river on foot and walk to the summit granary for the finest view. Entry approx 2 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE DADES VALLEY AND GORGE
Continue east through the Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs, the extraordinary Draa and Dades valleys lined with rose-red pisé towers. The Dades gorge above Boumalne cuts through extraordinary red rock formations and the remarkable monkey fingers formations are at their finest in the late afternoon light. The gorge road climbs through extraordinary scenery before the valley opens into the pre-Saharan plateau. Free. Drive: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
TODRA GORGE
The Todra gorge arrives as a dramatic canyon slot between 300-metre limestone walls closing to just 10 metres wide. The Todra river flows through the narrow passage in crystal clear water. The best light is at midday but the gorge is extraordinary at any time. Walk through the narrowest section, look up at the extraordinary walls and understand why climbers come here from across the world. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Glaoui kasbah of Telouet, 20km off the Tichka road, is one of the most remarkable buildings in Morocco. The crumbling decorated reception rooms are still magnificent. Entry approx 3 euros. The detour adds one hour and is among the finest sights in the Atlas.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Marrakech Early start needed. Tea and khobz before crossing the Tichka pass. | Lunch: Auberge opposite Ait Ben Haddou Tagine with the extraordinary kasbah view across the river. | Dinner: Gorge guesthouse, Todra Home-cooked Berber dinner: harira soup, tagine and fresh bread.
DAY 2
THE ERG CHEBBI AND DESERT NIGHT
MORNING
DRIVE TO MERZOUGA THROUGH THE ZIZ VALLEY
drive The morning drive from Todra to Merzouga crosses the extraordinary Tafilalt oasis and the Ziz gorge, one of the finest road descents in Africa as the desert appears below the gorge exit. The flat hammada desert then stretches east until the extraordinary orange wall of the Erg Chebbi dunes appears on the horizon, rising to 150 metres above the flat plain. The approach to Merzouga across the desert is extraordinary. Drive: Camel trek from Merzouga
MIDDAY
THE ERG CHEBBI DUNES AND THE CAMEL TREK AT SUNSET
The Erg Chebbi dunes extend 22km along the Algerian border, the finest and highest dunes in Morocco. The camel trek from Merzouga to the desert camp takes about 90 minutes and passes through extraordinary dune landscapes that change colour from orange to gold to deep amber as the sun descends. Arrive at the camp in time for sunset from the dune crest above. The Sahara at the golden hour is the finest sight in Morocco. Drive: Camp in the dunes EVENING DESERT NIGHT UNDER THE STARS 3 hours The Sahara night sky, far from any light pollution, contains more stars than you will see from anywhere in Europe. The Milky Way arches across the extraordinary darkness and the silence of the desert is absolute. The desert camp serves dinner by firelight and the Gnawa musicians play until late. Sleep in a proper Berber tent with blankets against the night cold. The extraordinary experience of complete desert silence is unforgettable.
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary fossil market at Erfoud sells the finest Devonian marine fossils in the world. The large ammonite slabs and the trilobite specimens are outstanding. Bargain hard. The best fossil dealers are in the lanes behind the main market square.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Todra Early start for the desert drive. Light Moroccan breakfast. | Lunch: Roadside cafe, Erfoud Simple Berber lunch near the Tafilalt oasis before the dunes. | Dinner: Desert camp dinner Tagine by firelight in the dunes. Berber music under the Milky Way.
DAY 3
DESERT SUNRISE AND RETURN
MORNING
SUNRISE FROM THE DUNE CRESTS
Wake before dawn and climb the highest accessible dune for the extraordinary moment when the first light catches the crest and the shadows in the valleys turn from blue to gold. The silence, the extraordinary scale of the dune sea and the warmth of the first sun are unforgettable. The camel trek back to Merzouga through the morning light completes the finest dawn in Morocco. No other experience in the country compares. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
RISSANI MARKET AND THE ALAOUI HERITAGE
Rissani, 22km from Merzouga, was the first capital of the Alaoui dynasty. The extraordinary Ksar Oulad Abdelhalim, the remarkable Moulay Ali Cherif mausoleum and the extraordinary Thursday souk are all outstanding. The souk sells the finest Saharan jewellery, traditional carpets and remarkable local goods at the most authentic prices on the southern circuit. Entry free. Drive: 4 hours drive
AFTERNOON
RETURN OVER THE ATLAS TO MARRAKECH
drive The long drive home over the Atlas gives time to process the extraordinary journey. The pre-Saharan plains give way to the Draa valley, the valley to the Ouarzazate plateau, and then the extraordinary Tichka pass climb to the Atlas crest before the descent to Marrakech. Stop at Ait Ben Haddou one final time in the late afternoon if the light is good. Arrive in Marrakech in time for the Djemaa el-Fna at dusk.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Dayet Srji salt lake at the base of the Erg Chebbi attracts remarkable flocks of flamingos from West Africa in winter when the lake floods. The extraordinary pink birds against the orange dunes and blue sky is one of the finest natural spectacles in Morocco. Best November to February. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Desert camp breakfast Mint tea and khobz in the dunes at the most extraordinary breakfast spot. | Lunch: Rissani souk restaurant Mechoui lamb from the wood-fired oven in the ancient market town. | Dinner: Marrakech riad or Djemaa Return to the city. The food stalls of the Djemaa for a final night.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Ait Ben Haddou, Night 1 Guesthouse opposite the kasbah with views. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night. Desert camp, Night 2 Luxury or standard camp in the Erg Chebbi dunes. Approx 80 to 200 euros. Desert camp tip Book a camp that is at least 30 minutes by camel from Merzouga village for proper silence.
Top Tips
1. Stay the night at Ait Ben Haddou. The kasbah at sunrise with no visitors is one of Morocco's finest moments.
2. Cross the Tichka pass in the morning when the light on the Atlas snowfields is extraordinary.
3. Todra gorge is most dramatic at midday when the sun briefly reaches the 10-metre-wide canyon floor.
4. Take the camel trek to your desert camp rather than driving. The dune walk at sunset is unmissable.
5. The Erg Chebbi dunes at sunrise before any other visitors are awake is the finest hour in Morocco.
6. Bring warm layers for the desert night. Even in autumn the temperature drops sharply after sunset.
Total Budget
80 to 240 euros/day