Provence
5
Day Itinerary •
France
Five days in Provence reveals the full extraordinary range of the most seductive region in France. Beyond the Luberon and the Alpilles lie some of the greatest Roman monuments in northern Europe at Arles and Nimes, the extraordinary medieval papal city of Avignon, the most dramatic river gorge in France in the Grand Canyon du Verdon, and the extraordinary coast from Marseille to Cassis. This route covers the complete hidden Provence. The golden Luberon villages, the haunting white rock of Les Baux, the wild Camargue delta, the extraordinary Roman monuments of Arles, the medieval splendour of Avignon, and the vertiginous Gorges du Verdon, Europe's answer to the Grand Canyon.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Marseille (MRS) or fly to Nice then drive 1 hour
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 100 to 160 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LUBERON VILLAGES
MORNING
GORDES AND THE ABBAYE DE SENANQUE
The most spectacular hilltop village in the Luberon. Walk before 9am for the empty streets. The Abbaye de Senanque 3km away surrounded by lavender fields in July is the most extraordinary image in Provence. Entry by guided tour approx 7 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Roussillon
MIDDAY
ROUSSILLON, THE VILLAGE OF OCHRE
Built entirely from extraordinary ochre rock in a spectrum of red, orange and yellow. The Sentier des Ocres walk around the village takes 45 minutes and gives extraordinary views of the coloured earth. Entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Bonnieux
AFTERNOON
BONNIEUX AND THE LUBERON RIDGE
The finest and most authentic Luberon village. The old church terrace has the finest view in the Luberon. The extraordinary cedar forest behind the village is perfect for an evening walk.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Abbaye de Senanque is at its most extraordinary in early July when the surrounding lavender is in full bloom. A 12th-century Cistercian abbey still occupied by monks. Arrive before 9am for the best light and no crowds.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Gordes Croissant with views over the Luberon. Buy provisions from the morning market. | Lunch: Restaurant La Treille, Bonnieux Outstanding Provencal. Local lamb, goat cheese and Luberon rose wine. | Dinner: Bastide de Gordes restaurant The finest restaurant in the Luberon. Book months ahead.
DAY 2
LES BAUX AND THE ALPILLES
MORNING
LES BAUX-DE-PROVENCE, THE HAUNTED ROCK CITADEL
A ruined medieval citadel on a haunting white limestone plateau, entirely abandoned since the 17th century. Extraordinary views over the Alpilles and the Camargue plain. Entry approx 9 euros. Drive: 15 min drive to Carrieres
MIDDAY
CARRIERES DES LUMIERES
The most extraordinary artistic experience in Provence. A vast former bauxite quarry converted into an immersive projection space with stone walls up to 14 metres. Entry approx 14 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Saint-Remy
AFTERNOON
SAINT-REMY AND LES ANTIQUES
Van Gogh spent a year in the Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum here in 1889 to 1890 and painted over 150 works. His room is accessible to visitors. The extraordinary Les Antiques, two perfectly preserved 1st-century BC Roman monuments, are free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Moulin de Daudet at Fontvieille is where Alphonse Daudet wrote the most beloved book about Provence. The view from the hill over the Alpilles is extraordinary. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Les Baux Coffee before the citadel opens. Morning light on white limestone is extraordinary. | Lunch: L'Oustau de Baumaniere Three Michelin stars. The finest table in Provence. Book months ahead. | Dinner: Le Bistrot de la Place, Fontvieille Outstanding Provencal bistrot. Local lamb and Coteaux des Baux wine.
DAY 3
CAMARGUE AND ARLES
MORNING
THE CAMARGUE, THE WILD DELTA OF THE RHONE
Wild white horses, 10,000 pairs of flamingos and extraordinary black bulls herded by gardians on horseback across salt marshes and lagoons covering 850 square kilometres. Drive the extraordinary D36 road through the heart of the delta. Drive: 45 min drive to Arles
MIDDAY
ARLES, THE GREATEST ROMAN CITY IN FRANCE
Arles has the finest collection of Roman monuments in France. The Arena, built in 90 AD and still used for bullfighting and concerts, held 20,000 spectators. The extraordinary Theatre Antique and the Alyscamps necropolis are extraordinary. Van Gogh lived here in 1888 to 1889 and painted over 300 works. The Fondation Vincent van Gogh is extraordinary. Entry to Arena approx 9 euros. Drive: 20 min walk to museum
AFTERNOON
THE MUSEE DE L'ARLES ANTIQUE
One of the finest Roman museums in France, containing the extraordinary barge of Caesar, a 31-metre Roman river barge raised from the Rhone in 2004, and the largest collection of Roman sarcophagi in France. Entry approx 8 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Pont du Gard, 25km from Arles, is the finest Roman aqueduct in the world. The three-tier bridge 49 metres high carried water to Nimes for 500 years. Entry approx 9 euros (parking) and extraordinary at sunrise when there are no crowds.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Marche d'Arles Saturday morning The finest Provencal market. Local olives, cheese, saucisson and extraordinary produce. | Lunch: L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel, Arles Two Michelin stars and the most creative Provencal cuisine in Arles. Book well ahead. | Dinner: Le Gibolin, Arles Outstanding wine bar and bistrot. Natural wines and extraordinary local charcuterie.
DAY 4
AVIGNON
MORNING
THE PALAIS DES PAPES, THE LARGEST GOTHIC PALACE IN THE WORLD
The Palais des Papes in Avignon is the largest Gothic palace in the world, built by the seven popes who resided in Avignon from 1309 to 1377 when the papacy abandoned Rome. The Grand Tinel banqueting hall, the Pope's bedchamber with extraordinary 14th-century frescoes and the extraordinary scale of the fortress-palace are extraordinary. Entry approx 12 euros. The Pont d'Avignon (Pont Saint-Benezet) with four surviving arches in the Rhone is extraordinary. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Chateauneuf
MIDDAY
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, THE WINE OF THE POPES
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the most celebrated wine appellation in the southern Rhone, producing the most full-bodied and complex red wines in Provence from 13 permitted grape varieties. The medieval castle ruins of the popes' summer residence above the village give extraordinary views over the vineyards. Several small domaines offer extraordinary tastings. The village museum tells the extraordinary story of the appellation. Drive: 30 min drive to Villeneuve
AFTERNOON
VILLENEUVE-LES-AVIGNON, THE HIDDEN TWIN CITY
Villeneuve-les-Avignon across the Rhone from Avignon is one of the finest and most overlooked small cities in Provence. The Fort Saint-Andre on its hilltop gives the finest view of Avignon and the Palais des Papes across the river. The Chartreuse du Val de Benediction, the finest Carthusian monastery in France, is extraordinary. Entry approx 8 euros and almost entirely unvisited.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Avignon Theatre Festival each July is the most important theatre festival in the world. The entire city becomes a stage, with over 1,500 shows in 100 venues. Tickets from 10 euros. Book accommodation months ahead if visiting in July.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Avignon Place de l'Horloge Coffee under the finest Baroque clock tower in Provence. | Lunch: Christian Etienne, Avignon Outstanding restaurant in a 14th-century palace adjacent to the Palais des Papes. | Dinner: Le Numero 75, Avignon Outstanding modern Provencal. Local lamb, truffles and extraordinary Rhone wines.
DAY 5
GORGES DU VERDON
MORNING
GORGES DU VERDON, EUROPE'S GRAND CANYON
The Gorges du Verdon is the most dramatic river gorge in France, a 25km canyon up to 700 metres deep carved through white limestone by the extraordinary turquoise Verdon river. The Corniche Sublime road along the southern rim gives extraordinary views into the gorge. The Point Sublime on the northern rim is the finest single viewpoint. The extraordinary turquoise colour of the water is caused by glacial silt suspended in the Lac de Sainte-Croix at the western end. Drive: 30 min drive to Moustiers
MIDDAY
MOUSTIERS-SAINTE-MARIE, THE VILLAGE UNDER THE STAR
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is the most extraordinary village in upper Provence. Built into a cliff face at the entrance to the Verdon gorge, the village is bisected by a waterfall and has an extraordinary gold star suspended on a chain between the two cliff faces above it, hung by a knight returning from the Crusades in the 12th century. The village produces the finest faience pottery in France, a tradition since the 17th century. Free to walk. Drive: 20 min drive to lake
AFTERNOON
LAC DE SAINTE-CROIX AND THE VERDON KAYAKING
The Lac de Sainte-Croix at the western end of the Verdon gorge is the finest lake in Provence, an extraordinary reservoir of extraordinary turquoise water. Hire a pedalo or kayak from the lake shore and paddle into the lower gorge from the water. The first kilometre of the gorge from the lake level is accessible to all and extraordinary. Kayak hire approx 15 euros per hour.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Lac de Sainte-Croix at sunset turns extraordinary colours from turquoise to deep green to gold as the light changes. Drive the D957 along the lake shore at 7pm for the finest light. The lavender fields of the Valensole plateau above the lake are extraordinary in July.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe at Point Sublime Coffee before the gorge walk. The morning light on the white limestone is extraordinary. | Lunch: La Bastide de Moustiers Alain Ducasse's Provencal farmhouse restaurant. Outstanding local cuisine. Book well ahead. | Dinner: Final dinner in Aix-en-Provence One last rose de Provence, ratatouille and tapenade. The perfect ending.
Where To Stay
Gordes or Bonnieux, Night 1 Bastide de Gordes or La Bastide de Capelongue. Approx 150 to 350 euros per night. Saint-Remy or Les Baux, Night 2 Hotel de l'Image or Baumaniere. Approx 130 to 280 euros per night. Avignon, Nights 3 to 4 Hotel La Mirande, a 14th-century palace. Approx 200 to 350 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Gordes at dawn is empty. By 10am the car park is full and the village is overwhelmed. Arrive early.
2. Luberon lavender fields peak in early to mid July. The Plateau de Valensole is the finest.
3. Marseille bouillabaisse must be ordered 24 hours in advance at Chez Fonfon. Book and pre-order.
4. The Calanques hiking access is restricted June to September due to fire risk. Check conditions before going.
5. Abbaye de Senanque lavender is at its peak in late June to early July. Arrive before 9am.
6. Provence rose wine is the finest in the world. Buy Bandol rose directly from Domaine Tempier.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day