Outer Hebrides
5
Day Itinerary •
UK
Five days in the Outer Hebrides takes you across the most extraordinary island chain in Britain, from the ancient Lewisian gneiss of Lewis, the oldest rock on earth, through the extraordinary machair grasslands of the Uists to the extraordinary white sand beaches of Barra that are used as a landing strip by the daily flight from Glasgow. Nowhere in Europe has more extraordinary beaches per mile of coast. This route covers the full Hebridean arc from Stornoway to Castlebay. The Callanish Standing Stones and the extraordinary blackhouses of the Gearrannan village, the remarkable Harris Tweed weavers and the extraordinary Harris mountains, the magnificent machair and corncrake habitat of the Uists, and the extraordinary tidal causeway to Barra's Vatersay.
Best Time To Visit
May to August for beaches and wildlife
Getting There
Fly to Stornoway (SYY) or ferry from Ullapool
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 100 to 170 GBP per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking on beaches and coastal paths
DAY 1
LEWIS: CALLANISH AND THE ATLANTIC COAST
MORNING
CALLANISH STANDING STONES, THE FINEST IN SCOTLAND
The Callanish Standing Stones are the finest prehistoric stone circle in Scotland and among the most extraordinary in Europe, their extraordinary cruciform avenue of 50 Lewis gneiss monoliths standing in the most dramatic Atlantic setting imaginable. Built around 2900 BC, they predate Stonehenge and are aligned with the 18.6-year lunar standstill cycle. At dawn or dusk with no other visitors they are the most extraordinary prehistoric experience in Britain. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
GEARRANNAN BLACKHOUSE VILLAGE
The Gearrannan blackhouse village at Carloway is the finest restored blackhouse settlement in the Hebrides, its extraordinary thatched stone houses showing the traditional Lewis way of life in which people and animals shared one long building under a single roof. The village was inhabited until 1974 and is now preserved and partly operated as self-catering accommodation. The extraordinary atmosphere, the smell of peat smoke and the Atlantic views are outstanding. Entry approx 4 GBP. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
MANGERSTA AND THE ATLANTIC CLIFFS
The Mangersta sea stacks on the Atlantic coast of Lewis are the most extraordinary coastal scenery on the island, their extraordinary geometric basalt columns rising from the ocean below dramatic clifftops with the full fetch of the Atlantic behind. The walk from the car park to the clifftop takes about 20 minutes and gives one of the finest sea stack views in Scotland. The extraordinary Uig sands beach nearby is remarkable. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Calanais II and III stone circles, smaller versions of the main Callanish monument on the same ridge, are almost always empty even when the main circle is busy. The views from both secondary circles over Loch Roag and the main circle are remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Stornoway hotel or bakery Lewis breakfast. The An Lanntair arts centre cafe is excellent. | Lunch: Callanish Visitor Centre cafe Simple lunch beside the most extraordinary stones in Scotland. | Dinner: Digby Chick, Stornoway The finest restaurant in Lewis. Local seafood and Hebridean lamb.
DAY 2
HARRIS: BEACHES AND TWEED WEAVERS
MORNING
LUSKENTYRE BEACH, THE FINEST IN BRITAIN
Luskentyre is the finest beach in Britain, its extraordinary expanse of white shell sand stretching for kilometres across the head of a sea loch with the Harris mountains behind and the turquoise Atlantic water changing colour with every shift of light and tide. The beach is best at low tide when the full extent of the sand is exposed and the tidal channels create extraordinary patterns. The view from the hill behind toward Taransay is outstanding. Free. Drive: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
HARRIS TWEED WEAVERS
The Harris Tweed weavers of the Western Isles are the only people on earth producing a handwoven cloth made and finished entirely in the islands from pure new wool, regulated by an Act of Parliament since 1993. Visiting a working weaver to hear the extraordinary sound of the traditional Hattersley loom and watch the cloth being made is one of the finest Hebridean experiences. The Luskentyre Harris Tweed company is outstanding. Free to visit. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
HUSHINISH AND THE REMOTE HARRIS COAST
Hushinish at the end of the long single-track road on the northwestern coast of Harris is the most extraordinarily remote beach on the island, its remarkable white sand and turquoise water facing the extraordinary island of Scarp, abandoned in 1971. The drive from Tarbert through the extraordinary Harris landscape of ancient Lewisian gneiss and Atlantic lochs is itself remarkable. The extraordinary sense of being at the end of the road is outstanding. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Scarista beach on the Atlantic coast of Harris, 15km south of Tarbert, is the second finest beach in the Outer Hebrides and almost always completely empty even in summer. The view from the dunes toward Taransay and the Sound of Harris is outstanding. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Tarbert Harris hotel Early start for Luskentyre at low tide. | Lunch: Harris Hotel garden Simple lunch in Tarbert between the beach and the weavers. | Dinner: Pierhouse Restaurant, Tarbert Local Harris scallops and Hebridean seafood. Book ahead.
DAY 3
NORTH UIST: MACHAIR AND WILDLIFE
MORNING
BALRANALD RSPB RESERVE AND THE NORTH UIST MACHAIR
Balranald RSPB reserve on the western coast of North Uist is the finest machair habitat in Britain. The extraordinary wildflower grassland, the remarkable corncrake population and the extraordinary variety of wading birds on the beach and lagoons make it one of the finest wildlife sites in Scotland. Corncrakes call from late May through June and are heard more easily than they are seen, their extraordinary rasping call carrying across the wildflowers. Entry free. Drive: Ferry from Harris
MIDDAY
CARINISH AND THE NORTH FORD CAUSEWAY
The North Ford causeway connecting North and South Uist passes through an extraordinary tidal landscape of machair islands, sea lochs and the remarkable open sky that characterises the Uist interior. Carinish, at the southern end of the causeway, has the extraordinary ruins of the Teampull na Trionaid, a 13th-century monastic college reputedly the most important centre of learning in the medieval Hebrides. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
BERNERAY AND THE BEACH WALK
Berneray, connected to North Uist by causeway since 1999, has the finest beach in North Uist, its extraordinary west beach of shell-white sand stretching for 3km with the Sound of Harris and the Harris mountains as backdrop. Prince Charles famously worked as a crofter on Berneray and the extraordinary warmth of the island community and the remarkable simplicity of the landscape are outstanding. The hostel in the blackhouse is unforgettable. Free beach.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Pobull Fhinn stone circle on Ben Langass in North Uist, reached by a 20-minute walk from the road, stands in the most atmospheric moorland setting of any stone circle in the Uists. Almost always completely empty. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Tarbert Harris hotel Early ferry to North Uist. | Lunch: Lochmaddy cafe or picnic Simple Uist lunch near the extraordinary machair. | Dinner: Langass Lodge, North Uist The finest restaurant in the Uists. Outstanding local produce.
DAY 4
SOUTH UIST: MACHAIR AND ERISKAY
MORNING
LOCH DRUIDIBEG NATIONAL NATURE RESERVE
Loch Druidibeg in South Uist is the most important site in Britain for the native greylag goose and a remarkable example of the extraordinary machair, freshwater and saltmarsh habitats that make the Uists so extraordinary for wildlife. The RSPB-managed reserve has the finest combination of corncrake, lapwing, redshank and dunlin habitat in Scotland. The extraordinary flowers of the machair in June are outstanding. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
KILDONAN BEACH AND THE HEBRIDES RANGE
Kildonan on the eastern coast of South Uist faces the extraordinary Sound of Barra and the mountains of the Outer Hebrides across the water. The extraordinary beach of dark Hebridean sand contrasting with the turquoise water and the remarkable ruins of Calvay Castle on its tidal island are outstanding. The Howmore township nearby has the most extraordinary collection of ruined medieval churches in the Uists, their remarkable grey stone walls standing in a carpet of wildflowers. Free. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
POLLACHAR AND THE CAUSEWAY TO ERISKAY
The Pollachar standing stone at the southern tip of South Uist stands above one of the finest views of Barra, the Sound of Barra and the extraordinary scattered islands of the southern Hebrides. The causeway from South Uist to Eriskay crosses one of the most remarkable tidal landscapes in Scotland. Eriskay itself is the island where the SS Politician sank in 1941 with 22,000 cases of whisky, the story that became Whisky Galore. Ferry to Barra from Eriskay. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Our Lady of the Isles statue near Loch Bee in South Uist, the largest religious statue in Britain at 9 metres, stands on the hillside above the machair. The view from below the statue over the machair, the sea and the islands is remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: South Uist guesthouse Uist breakfast before the Loch Druidibeg walk. | Lunch: Kildonan beach picnic Eat on the remarkable dark sand beach. | Dinner: Castlebay Hotel, Barra First Barra dinner. Local crab and Hebridean langoustines.
DAY 5
BARRA: BEACH RUNWAY AND VATERSAY
MORNING
COCKLE STRAND, THE BEACH RUNWAY
The Cockle Strand at Traigh Mhor on Barra is the most extraordinary airport in Britain, its remarkable tidal beach serving as the runway for the daily Loganair flight from Glasgow. The flight lands on the sand and the extraordinary spectacle of a commercial aircraft using a beach is unlike anything else in aviation. The cockle gatherers work the same sand between flights. The view from the beach at low tide toward the surrounding hills is remarkable. Free. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
KISIMUL CASTLE AND CASTLEBAY
Kisimul Castle, the seat of Clan MacNeil, rises from a small island in Castlebay harbour and is the most extraordinary water castle in Scotland. The 11th-century tower house, accessible only by boat, is in remarkable preservation. The MacNeil chief leased it back to the government for 1 GBP and a bottle of whisky per year. Castlebay itself, with its extraordinary views of the castle and the surrounding sound, is the finest small harbour in the Outer Hebrides. Entry approx 8 GBP. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
VATERSAY AND THE ATLANTIC DUNES
Vatersay, connected to Barra by causeway since 1991, has the finest double beach in the Outer Hebrides, its extraordinary tombolo of white sand with Atlantic ocean on one side and the sheltered bay on the other framed by the extraordinary dune system. The walk south from the causeway to the Annie Jane memorial, marking where 350 emigrants drowned in 1853, passes through the finest dune machair in Barra. The most extraordinary farewell to the Outer Hebrides. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Ben Heaval above Castlebay, the highest point on Barra at 383 metres, is reached by a 2-hour walk from the town and gives the finest view of the southern Hebrides, including the extraordinary scattering of islands stretching south to the horizon. The statue of Our Lady on the summit is remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Castlebay cafe, Barra Final Hebridean breakfast before the beach runway. | Lunch: Cafe on Barra Simple lunch before the Kisimul Castle boat trip. | Dinner: Final dinner, Castlebay Farewell to the extraordinary Outer Hebrides.
Where To Stay
Stornoway, Night 1 Lewis base. Approx 80 to 140 GBP per night. Tarbert Harris, Nights 2 to 3 Harris base for beaches and Uists. Approx 80 to 150 GBP per night. Barra, Night 4 to 5 Castlebay or guesthouse. Approx 80 to 130 GBP per night.
Top Tips
1. Book CalMac ferry vehicle spaces months ahead in summer. They sell out extremely fast.
2. Lewis and Harris observe the Sabbath. Plan so you are not travelling or needing fuel on Sunday.
3. The Callanish Stones at dawn or dusk with no other visitors is the finest prehistoric experience in Britain.
4. Luskentyre beach is most beautiful at low tide when the full extent of the sand is exposed.
5. Harris Tweed weavers are happy to show visitors their looms. The sound is extraordinary.
6. Corncrakes call on the Uist machair from late May. Walk quietly through the wildflowers at dusk.
Total Budget
145 to 255 GBP/day