Orkney Shetland
3
Day Itinerary •
UK
Three days across Orkney and Shetland is the essential island-hopping experience of the British north. Orkney's extraordinary Neolithic monuments, older than the Pyramids, and Shetland's wild cliffs, extraordinary seabird colonies and Viking heritage are unlike anything else in Britain. This is one day on each, linked by a short flight over the North Sea. This focused route takes in Orkney's unmissable Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site on day one, the extraordinary Italian Chapel and Old Man of Hoy on day two, then flies to Shetland for the remarkable Jarlshof, the puffins of Sumburgh Head and the extraordinary Hermaness on day three.
Best Time To Visit
May to August for wildlife and long days
Getting There
Fly to Kirkwall (KOI) then fly to Shetland (LSI)
Getting Around
Rental car essential on both island groups
Budget Per Day
Approx 110 to 190 GBP per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, coastal walking on well-marked paths
DAY 1
HEART OF NEOLITHIC ORKNEY
MORNING
SKARA BRAE AND THE NEOLITHIC VILLAGE
Skara Brae, preserved beneath sand dunes for 5,000 years until a great storm revealed it in 1850, is the finest Neolithic settlement in Europe. The extraordinary stone furniture, the box beds, the central hearths and the dresser where possessions were displayed are all intact. The village predates Stonehenge by 500 years and the Pyramids of Giza by 1,000. Go at opening time. The Skaill House beside it is also outstanding. Entry approx 14 GBP. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
RING OF BRODGAR AND STONES OF STENNESS
The Ring of Brodgar is the third largest stone circle in Britain, its 27 surviving monoliths standing on a narrow isthmus between two lochs in an extraordinary landscape. The Stones of Stenness 1km away are the oldest standing stones in Scotland at 5,100 years old. The remarkable Ness of Brodgar excavation between them is revealing the most extraordinary Neolithic ceremonial complex in Europe. Both are entirely free and unfenced. Free. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
MAESHOWE CHAMBERED CAIRN
Maeshowe, built around 2800 BC and aligned precisely so the midwinter sunset illuminates its central chamber, is the finest chambered cairn in northwestern Europe. The extraordinary Viking runes carved by Crusaders sheltering inside in the 12th century include the largest collection of Norse inscriptions in the world. The guided tour is the only way in and is essential. Entry approx 10 GBP. Book well ahead in summer.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Ness of Brodgar excavation between the Ring of Brodgar and Stenness, open to visitors in summer, is revealing a vast Neolithic ceremonial complex with painted buildings that may rewrite the story of prehistoric Britain. Free to view from the path.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Kirkwall hotel Early start for Skara Brae at opening time. | Lunch: Skara Brae cafe or Stromness Simple lunch after the extraordinary Neolithic circuit. | Dinner: The Bothy Bar, Kirkwall Local Orkney beef and the finest Orkney Brewery ales.
DAY 2
ITALIAN CHAPEL, SCAPA FLOW AND HOY
MORNING
THE ITALIAN CHAPEL
The Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm is the most extraordinary small building in Scotland, created from two Nissen huts by Italian prisoners of war between 1943 and 1945. The remarkable trompe-l'oeil interior of painted brickwork, the extraordinary ornamental facade and the beautiful altar are all the work of Domenico Chiocchetti, who returned in 1960 to restore the chapel he had built as a prisoner. One of the most moving places in Scotland. Free. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SCAPA FLOW AND THE CHURCHILL BARRIERS
Scapa Flow, the finest natural harbour in Europe, saw the scuttling of the German High Seas Fleet in 1919 and the sinking of the Royal Oak in 1939. The Churchill Barriers built by Italian prisoners to close the eastern approaches now carry the main road south. The wartime wrecks visible at low tide, the extraordinary wartime landscape and the Lyness Naval Museum on Hoy all tell the remarkable story. Entry museum approx 5 GBP. Drive: Ferry to Hoy
AFTERNOON
THE OLD MAN OF HOY
The Old Man of Hoy, the most famous sea stack in Britain at 137 metres of red sandstone rising from the sea below dramatic cliffs, is reached by a 90-minute walk from Rackwick Bay across extraordinary moorland patrolled by great skuas. The view from the clifftop of the stack with the Orkney mainland behind is the finest coastal viewpoint in the islands. Return ferry to Stromness then fly to Shetland the same evening. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Tomb of the Eagles at Isbister on South Ronaldsay, containing the bones of 342 people mixed with white-tailed eagle talons, is the most remarkable and personal prehistoric experience in Orkney. Entry approx 8 GBP.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Kirkwall hotel Good breakfast before the Italian Chapel drive south. | Lunch: Stromness cafe Simple lunch before the Hoy ferry. | Dinner: Ferry or Lerwick on arrival Evening flight or ferry to Shetland. Dinner on arrival.
DAY 3
SHETLAND: JARLSHOF TO HERMANESS
MORNING
JARLSHOF, THE GREATEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE IN SCOTLAND
Jarlshof at the southern tip of Shetland is the most extraordinary multi-period archaeological site in Scotland, its remarkable layers of Bronze Age, Iron Age, Norse and medieval settlement all exposed together on one headland above the sea. The extraordinary Bronze Age oval houses, the Iron Age broch, the Viking longhouses and the 16th-century laird's house are all outstanding. The coastal setting above the surf is remarkable. Entry approx 8 GBP. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
SUMBURGH HEAD PUFFINS
Sumburgh Head lighthouse has the finest accessible puffin colony in Britain, the extraordinary birds nesting in burrows on the cliff grass immediately beside the path and completely unbothered by visitors from May to late July. Razorbills, guillemots and fulmars nest on the cliffs below. The lighthouse visitor centre tells the story of this remarkable headland. The puffins are one of the most extraordinary wildlife experiences in Scotland. Free. Drive: 2 hours drive north
AFTERNOON
HERMANESS AND THE SEABIRD CLIFFS
Hermaness National Nature Reserve has the finest seabird colony in Britain, its extraordinary clifftops home to 100,000 birds including the largest puffin colony on Unst, gannet stacks and the remarkable great skuas that nest on the moorland and attack everything that passes. The Muckle Flugga lighthouse on the most northerly rock in Britain is visible from the cliff. The walk from the car park takes about 90 minutes each way. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Mousa Broch, the finest preserved Iron Age broch in the world, stands on the island of Mousa visible from the Lerwick to Sumburgh road. The ferry from Sandwick takes 15 minutes. Entry approx 10 GBP. The storm petrels nesting in the walls at night in summer are remarkable.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Lerwick hotel Early start for Jarlshof at the southern tip of Shetland. | Lunch: Sumburgh Airport cafe Simple lunch before the long drive north to Hermaness. | Dinner: Hay's Dock, Lerwick The finest restaurant in Shetland. Local seafood and lamb.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Kirkwall, Nights 1 to 2 Orkney mainland base. Approx 90 to 160 GBP per night. Lerwick, Night 3 Shetland mainland base. Approx 90 to 160 GBP per night. Booking ahead Both islands have limited accommodation. Book as far ahead as possible.
Top Tips
1. Skara Brae is best at opening time before coach tours arrive. The preservation is extraordinary.
2. Maeshowe guided tours book out fast. Reserve online well in advance through Historic Environment Scotland.
3. The Old Man of Hoy walk is 3 hours return from Rackwick. Allow a full afternoon.
4. Sumburgh Head puffins are present May to late July and remarkably approachable from the path.
5. Hermaness is the finest seabird experience in Britain. Bring binoculars and waterproofs.
6. Book Orkney and Shetland car hire before travelling. Both islands have very limited rental fleets.
Total Budget
165 to 280 GBP/day