Oaxaca
5
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Five days in Oaxaca gives you the full extraordinary depth of Mexico's most celebrated cultural state. Beyond Monte Alban and the Zapotec valley villages lie the extraordinary living communities of Teotitlan weavers and Coyotepec potters, the unfinished Dominican monastery where Morelos was executed, the Yagul fortress above the Tlacolula valley and the finest mezcal distilleries in the world in Matatlan. This route covers every dimension of Oaxaca from its pre-Columbian Zapotec heritage and extraordinary colonial architecture to the finest regional cuisine in Mexico, the artisanal mezcal tradition of the valley villages, the Pacific coast surf beaches of Puerto Escondido and the extraordinary cloud forest of the Sierra Sur. Five days that cement Oaxaca as the most extraordinary destination in Mexico.
Best Time To Visit
November to May
Getting There
Fly into Oaxaca (OAX) or ADO bus from Mexico City
Getting Around
Colectivo taxis, hired driver, ADO bus or flight to coast
Budget Per Day
Approx 45 to 190 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, valley trips and mountain road
DAY 1
OAXACA CITY
MORNING
MONTE ALBAN, THE GREATEST ZAPOTEC CITY IN THE ANCIENT WORLD
Monte Alban is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Americas, a Zapotec ceremonial city built on a flattened mountaintop 400 metres above the Oaxaca valley floor around 500 BC. The Main Plaza stretches 300 metres between the extraordinary pyramids of the North and South Platforms, the Observatory building and the extraordinary Danzantes gallery of carved human figures. Entry approx 90 pesos. Drive/Travel: 45 min taxi to city
MIDDAY
THE OAXACA ZOCALO AND THE SANTO DOMINGO CATHEDRAL
The Zocalo of Oaxaca is the finest plaza in Mexico, its arcaded colonial buildings housing mezcal bars and chocolate shops. The Santo Domingo de Guzman church two blocks north is the most extraordinary Baroque interior in Mexico outside Puebla, its nave ceiling covered in an extraordinary gilded family tree of the Guzman family. The adjacent cultural centre museum is the finest in Oaxaca. Entry to church free, museum approx 80 pesos. Drive/Travel: 10 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE MERCADO BENITO JUAREZ AND OAXACAN CHOCOLATE
The Mercado Benito Juarez is the finest traditional market in Oaxaca, extraordinary for the seven moles, Oaxacan cheese, chapulines grasshoppers, tlayudas and the finest chocolate in Mexico. The chocolate grinding mills on the market's periphery sell freshly ground drinking chocolate by the tablet. The adjacent Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the finest for grilled meats and tejate corn drink. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Atzompa 8km from Oaxaca city is the finest hidden archaeological site in the Oaxaca valley, a Zapotec residential city with extraordinary pyramid structures and a ball court almost entirely free of visitors. The adjacent village is famous for the finest green-glazed pottery in Mexico, made by the same families in the same way for generations. Local buses from Oaxaca second-class terminal approx 8 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Mercado 20 de Noviembre Extraordinary tamales oaxaquenos and atole de guayaba from the market stalls before Monte Alban. | Lunch: El Destilado, Centro Outstanding modern Oaxacan cuisine with an extraordinary mezcal library. The mole negro is extraordinary. | Dinner: La Biznaga, Centro The finest traditional Oaxacan dinner in the city. Extraordinary black bean tlayuda and Oaxacan cheese.
DAY 2
VALLEY VILLAGES
MORNING
HIERVE EL AGUA, THE PETRIFIED WATERFALLS OF OAXACA
Hierve el Agua is one of the most extraordinary natural formations in Mexico, a series of petrified mineral cascades spilling over a cliff edge 1,500 metres above the valley floor, their pools filled with turquoise mineral water. The two pools at the cliff's edge with views over the valley and the distant mountains are among the finest swimming spots in Mexico. Entry approx 50 pesos. Best visited midweek. Drive/Travel: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
MITLA, THE ZAPOTEC PALACE OF THE DEAD
Mitla is the finest and most extraordinary Zapotec architectural site in Oaxaca, its palace complex covered in extraordinary geometric stone mosaics of Greek fret patterns that took decades to carve. The Hall of Columns and the cruciform tombs beneath the main palace are extraordinary. Unlike Monte Alban, Mitla is integrated into a living village whose church was built directly on the pyramid foundations. Entry approx 90 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE TLACOLULA SUNDAY MARKET AND THE MEZCAL VILLAGES
The Sunday market of Tlacolula is the finest traditional indigenous market in Oaxaca, a weekly gathering of Zapotec, Mixtec and Mije vendors selling produce, textiles, herbs and the finest homemade mezcal in the valley. The surrounding villages of Matatlan, the self-styled mezcal capital of the world, offer extraordinary palenque distillery visits. Entry to market free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zapotec village of San Bartolo Coyotepec 12km from Oaxaca is the home of barro negro, the extraordinary black clay pottery unique to this single village, produced from pre-Columbian times. The family workshop of Dona Rosa Real, who rediscovered the burnishing technique in the 1950s, still produces extraordinary pieces. Entry free. Colectivo from Oaxaca second-class terminal approx 10 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Colectivo taxi breakfast stop Buy tlayudas from roadside vendors on the highway to Hierve el Agua. | Lunch: El Tule restaurant Extraordinary local food beneath the 2,000-year-old cypress tree, the widest trunk in the world. | Dinner: In Situ, Oaxaca The finest mezcal bar in Mexico with 500 labels. The botanas and the single-village expressions are extraordinary.
DAY 3
THE COAST ROAD
MORNING
THE OAXACAN TEXTILE VILLAGES AND THE TEOTITLAN DEL VALLE WEAVERS
Teotitlan del Valle is the finest weaving village in Mexico, its Zapotec families producing hand-loomed wool rugs and tapestries using pre-Columbian designs and natural dyes derived from cochineal insects, indigo plants and marigolds. The village cooperative allows visitors to watch the complete process from dyeing to finished textile. Entry free. The village market on Sundays is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN JOSE DEL PACIFICO AND THE SIERRA SUR CLOUD FOREST
The mountain village of San Jose del Pacifico at 2,750 metres on the road to Puerto Escondido sits in extraordinary cloud forest with views over both the Oaxaca valley and the Pacific coast on clear days. The pine and oak forest around the village is extraordinary for walking, birdwatching and the silence of the high sierra. The 3-hour drive from Oaxaca is itself extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 3 hours drive to coast
AFTERNOON
PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND THE ZICATELA PIPELINE
The Zicatela beach at Puerto Escondido is the finest surf beach in Mexico, host to the Mexican Pipeline, one of the most powerful beach breaks in the world. The Playa Carrizalillo nearby is the finest swimming beach on the Oaxacan coast, a protected cove of extraordinary clarity accessible by 167 steps. The sunset from the Puerto Escondido lighthouse is extraordinary. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Laguna de Manialtepec 18km west of Puerto Escondido is one of the most extraordinary bioluminescent lagoons in Mexico, its mangrove-lined waters glowing brilliant blue with bioluminescent plankton after dark from June to January. A night kayak through the extraordinary lagoon with the plankton lighting up around the paddle is one of the most remarkable natural experiences in Mexico. Tours from Puerto Escondido approx 350 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Teotitlan market stalls Extraordinary tlayudas and tasajo grilled beef from village market vendors. | Lunch: San Jose del Pacifico cafe Simple mountain food and extraordinary coffee grown at altitude in the sierra. | Dinner: El Cafecito, Puerto Escondido Outstanding seafood on the Zicatela beachfront. The smoked marlin tacos are extraordinary.
DAY 4
HIDDEN OAXACA
MORNING
DIA DE MUERTOS PREPARATION AND THE OAXACAN CEMETERY CULTURE
The cemeteries of Oaxaca, particularly the Panteon General and the village cemetery of Xoxocotlan, are extraordinary on the nights of November 1 and 2 when families decorate tombs with marigolds, candles, mezcal and the favourite foods of the deceased. The extraordinary Oaxacan tradition, distinct from the rest of Mexico, involves days of preparation and an overnight vigil. The marigold markets in the weeks before are extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE CUILAPAM DE GUERRERO DOMINICAN MONASTERY, WHERE MORELOS WAS EXECUTED
The extraordinary unfinished Dominican monastery of Cuilapam de Guerrero 10km from Oaxaca is one of the finest 16th-century ruins in Mexico, its extraordinary open chapel and roofless nave used as the site of the execution of Independence hero Jose Maria Morelos in 1815. The extraordinary scale of the abandoned complex and the frescoes visible on the surviving walls are remarkable. Entry approx 70 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
YAGUL, THE ZAPOTEC FORTRESS ABOVE THE VALLEY
The Zapotec fortress city of Yagul on its extraordinary hilltop above the Tlacolula valley is the finest and least visited of the Oaxaca valley archaeological sites, its palace group, ball court and extraordinary views over the valley making it more rewarding than Mitla for those willing to walk 30 minutes from the car park. The cacti garden in the ruins is extraordinary. Entry approx 75 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of San Marcos Tlapazola near Tlacolula produces the finest red clay pottery in the Oaxaca valley, hand-built without a wheel by women using a technique unchanged from pre-Columbian times. The family workshops welcome visitors and the pieces are extraordinary. The village also has an extraordinary Sunday market entirely attended by local Zapotec vendors. Colectivo from Tlacolula market approx 15 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: La Cosecha, Centro Outstanding Oaxacan coffee and extraordinary pan de yema egg bread at the finest cafe in the city. | Lunch: Comedor at Cuilapam Simple local food from the village comedor near the monastery. Extraordinary estofado. | Dinner: Criollo, Centro The finest tasting menu in Oaxaca from chef Luis Arellano. Extraordinary indigenous ingredients. Book ahead.
DAY 5
MEZCAL AND FOOD
MORNING
THE OAXACAN COOKING CLASS, THE GREATEST FOOD TRADITION IN MEXICO
Oaxaca is the food capital of Mexico, its seven moles, tlayudas, chapulines, Oaxacan cheese, memelas, tasajo and the extraordinary chocolate tradition representing the most complex regional cuisine in the country. A morning cooking class at Casa Crespo or the Seasons of My Heart cooking school includes a market tour, mole preparation from scratch and the extraordinary technique of grinding chocolate on a metate. Approx 700 to 1,200 pesos. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN PABLO VILLA DE MITLA AND THE LIVING ZAPOTEC CULTURE
The village of San Pablo Villa de Mitla surrounding the archaeological zone is one of the most extraordinary living examples of continuous Zapotec culture in Mexico. The community-run Museo Estatal Cultura Zapoteca contains extraordinary pre-Columbian textiles, ceramics and ritual objects collected from the valley. The village market on Sundays sells the finest handmade mezcal and traditional foods in the region. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE OAXACAN MEZCAL TRAIL AND THE PALENQUES OF MATATLAN
The mezcal distilleries of the Matatlan valley produce the finest artisanal mezcal in Mexico using centuries-old techniques. The extraordinary process from agave harvest to distillation in clay pot stills is visible at family palenques throughout the village. The difference between espadín, tobaziche, tepeztate and cuishe agave varieties is the most extraordinary education in spirits available anywhere. Tastings free at most palenques.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Tule Tree at Santa Maria del Tule, 9km from Oaxaca, is the widest tree trunk in the world, a 2,000-year-old Montezuma cypress with a circumference of 58 metres that requires 30 people with arms outstretched to encircle it. The tree predates the Spanish conquest by 1,500 years. The village church beside it is extraordinary colonial architecture. Entry approx 10 pesos. Colectivo from Oaxaca second-class terminal approx 8 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cooking school market tour Buy ingredients at Mercado Benito Juarez with your instructor before the class begins. | Lunch: Cooking school meal Eat the mole negro and tlayuda you prepared. The best meal of the trip. | Dinner: Origen, Centro The finest modern Oaxacan restaurant. Chef Rodolfo Castellanos uses extraordinary indigenous ingredients.
Where To Stay
Oaxaca Centro, Nights 1 to 4 Casa de Sierra Azul or El Camino Real Oaxaca. Approx 60 to 200 USD per night. Puerto Escondido, Night 5 Villas Carrizalillo or Hotel Santa Fe Zicatela. Approx 40 to 100 USD. Budget Option Hostal Pochon or Casa Angel in Centro. Approx 12 to 30 USD per night.
Top Tips
1. Book a cooking class at Seasons of My Heart or Casa Crespo at least one week ahead in high season.
2. The Guelaguetza festival in July requires hotel bookings months ahead. The finest indigenous festival in Mexico.
3. Dia de Muertos in Oaxaca (Nov 1-2): book accommodation a year ahead. The cemeteries are extraordinary.
4. Mezcal palenque visits in Matatlan: call ahead to the Vago or Koch El Mezcal palenques for guided tours.
5. Monte Alban at 8am opening. The sunrise over the Main Plaza with clouds below in the valley is extraordinary.
6. San Jose del Pacifico on the road to the coast has extraordinary mushroom culture in season. Ask locally.
Total Budget
45 to 185 USD/day