Oaxaca
3
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Three days in Oaxaca reveal the most extraordinary food, art and indigenous culture in Mexico. The Zapotec pyramid city of Monte Alban above the valley, the extraordinary petrified waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, the Zapotec palace mosaics of Mitla and the finest traditional market in the country at Tlacolula are all within reach of the most colourful colonial city in Mexico. This route covers Oaxaca city from the extraordinary Baroque interior of Santo Domingo to the seven moles of the Mercado Benito Juarez, then explores the valley villages of the Zapotec heartland before crossing the Sierra Sur cloud forest to the Pacific coast. Three days that reveal why Oaxaca is the finest destination in Mexico.
Best Time To Visit
November to May
Getting There
Fly into Oaxaca (OAX) or ADO bus from Mexico City
Getting Around
Colectivo taxis, hired driver for valley sites
Budget Per Day
Approx 45 to 175 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and valley day trips
DAY 1
OAXACA CITY
MORNING
MONTE ALBAN, THE GREATEST ZAPOTEC CITY IN THE ANCIENT WORLD
Monte Alban is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the Americas, a Zapotec ceremonial city built on a flattened mountaintop 400 metres above the Oaxaca valley floor around 500 BC. The Main Plaza stretches 300 metres between the extraordinary pyramids of the North and South Platforms, the Observatory building and the extraordinary Danzantes gallery of carved human figures. Entry approx 90 pesos. Drive/Travel: 45 min taxi to city
MIDDAY
THE OAXACA ZOCALO AND THE SANTO DOMINGO CATHEDRAL
The Zocalo of Oaxaca is the finest plaza in Mexico, its arcaded colonial buildings housing mezcal bars and chocolate shops. The Santo Domingo de Guzman church two blocks north is the most extraordinary Baroque interior in Mexico outside Puebla, its nave ceiling covered in an extraordinary gilded family tree of the Guzman family. The adjacent cultural centre museum is the finest in Oaxaca. Entry to church free, museum approx 80 pesos. Drive/Travel: 10 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE MERCADO BENITO JUAREZ AND OAXACAN CHOCOLATE
The Mercado Benito Juarez is the finest traditional market in Oaxaca, extraordinary for the seven moles, Oaxacan cheese, chapulines grasshoppers, tlayudas and the finest chocolate in Mexico. The chocolate grinding mills on the market's periphery sell freshly ground drinking chocolate by the tablet. The adjacent Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the finest for grilled meats and tejate corn drink. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The village of Atzompa 8km from Oaxaca city is the finest hidden archaeological site in the Oaxaca valley, a Zapotec residential city with extraordinary pyramid structures and a ball court almost entirely free of visitors. The adjacent village is famous for the finest green-glazed pottery in Mexico, made by the same families in the same way for generations. Local buses from Oaxaca second-class terminal approx 8 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Mercado 20 de Noviembre Extraordinary tamales oaxaquenos and atole de guayaba from the market stalls before Monte Alban. | Lunch: El Destilado, Centro Outstanding modern Oaxacan cuisine with an extraordinary mezcal library. The mole negro is extraordinary. | Dinner: La Biznaga, Centro The finest traditional Oaxacan dinner in the city. Extraordinary black bean tlayuda and Oaxacan cheese.
DAY 2
VALLEY VILLAGES
MORNING
HIERVE EL AGUA, THE PETRIFIED WATERFALLS OF OAXACA
Hierve el Agua is one of the most extraordinary natural formations in Mexico, a series of petrified mineral cascades spilling over a cliff edge 1,500 metres above the valley floor, their pools filled with turquoise mineral water. The two pools at the cliff's edge with views over the valley and the distant mountains are among the finest swimming spots in Mexico. Entry approx 50 pesos. Best visited midweek. Drive/Travel: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
MITLA, THE ZAPOTEC PALACE OF THE DEAD
Mitla is the finest and most extraordinary Zapotec architectural site in Oaxaca, its palace complex covered in extraordinary geometric stone mosaics of Greek fret patterns that took decades to carve. The Hall of Columns and the cruciform tombs beneath the main palace are extraordinary. Unlike Monte Alban, Mitla is integrated into a living village whose church was built directly on the pyramid foundations. Entry approx 90 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE TLACOLULA SUNDAY MARKET AND THE MEZCAL VILLAGES
The Sunday market of Tlacolula is the finest traditional indigenous market in Oaxaca, a weekly gathering of Zapotec, Mixtec and Mije vendors selling produce, textiles, herbs and the finest homemade mezcal in the valley. The surrounding villages of Matatlan, the self-styled mezcal capital of the world, offer extraordinary palenque distillery visits. Entry to market free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zapotec village of San Bartolo Coyotepec 12km from Oaxaca is the home of barro negro, the extraordinary black clay pottery unique to this single village, produced from pre-Columbian times. The family workshop of Dona Rosa Real, who rediscovered the burnishing technique in the 1950s, still produces extraordinary pieces. Entry free. Colectivo from Oaxaca second-class terminal approx 10 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Colectivo taxi breakfast stop Buy tlayudas from roadside vendors on the highway to Hierve el Agua. | Lunch: El Tule restaurant Extraordinary local food beneath the 2,000-year-old cypress tree, the widest trunk in the world. | Dinner: In Situ, Oaxaca The finest mezcal bar in Mexico with 500 labels. The botanas and the single-village expressions are extraordinary.
DAY 3
THE COAST ROAD
MORNING
THE OAXACAN TEXTILE VILLAGES AND THE TEOTITLAN DEL VALLE WEAVERS
Teotitlan del Valle is the finest weaving village in Mexico, its Zapotec families producing hand-loomed wool rugs and tapestries using pre-Columbian designs and natural dyes derived from cochineal insects, indigo plants and marigolds. The village cooperative allows visitors to watch the complete process from dyeing to finished textile. Entry free. The village market on Sundays is extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN JOSE DEL PACIFICO AND THE SIERRA SUR CLOUD FOREST
The mountain village of San Jose del Pacifico at 2,750 metres on the road to Puerto Escondido sits in extraordinary cloud forest with views over both the Oaxaca valley and the Pacific coast on clear days. The pine and oak forest around the village is extraordinary for walking, birdwatching and the silence of the high sierra. The 3-hour drive from Oaxaca is itself extraordinary. Drive/Travel: 3 hours drive to coast
AFTERNOON
PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND THE ZICATELA PIPELINE
The Zicatela beach at Puerto Escondido is the finest surf beach in Mexico, host to the Mexican Pipeline, one of the most powerful beach breaks in the world. The Playa Carrizalillo nearby is the finest swimming beach on the Oaxacan coast, a protected cove of extraordinary clarity accessible by 167 steps. The sunset from the Puerto Escondido lighthouse is extraordinary. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Laguna de Manialtepec 18km west of Puerto Escondido is one of the most extraordinary bioluminescent lagoons in Mexico, its mangrove-lined waters glowing brilliant blue with bioluminescent plankton after dark from June to January. A night kayak through the extraordinary lagoon with the plankton lighting up around the paddle is one of the most remarkable natural experiences in Mexico. Tours from Puerto Escondido approx 350 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Teotitlan market stalls Extraordinary tlayudas and tasajo grilled beef from village market vendors. | Lunch: San Jose del Pacifico cafe Simple mountain food and extraordinary coffee grown at altitude in the sierra. | Dinner: El Cafecito, Puerto Escondido Outstanding seafood on the Zicatela beachfront. The smoked marlin tacos are extraordinary.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Oaxaca Centro, All 3 Nights Stay within the historic centre. Casa de Sierra Azul or El Camino Real. Approx 60 to 180 USD. Puerto Escondido, Night 3 Villas Carrizalillo or Buena Vista. Approx 40 to 100 USD if staying on coast. Budget Option Hostal Pochon or Casa Angel. Approx 12 to 30 USD per night in Oaxaca Centro.
Top Tips
1. Monte Alban at opening time (8am) before the tour groups. The morning light on the Main Plaza is extraordinary.
2. Hierve el Agua midweek only. Weekends are very crowded. The upper pool at the cliff edge is the finest.
3. Never leave Oaxaca without trying the seven moles. Mole negro at El Destilado is the finest in the city.
4. Chapulines (grasshoppers) are the finest bar snack in Mexico. Buy from the Mercado Benito Juarez and eat immediately.
5. Mezcal tasting in Oaxaca: always sip, never shoot. The single-village expressions are extraordinary.
6. Book a table at La Biznaga at least one day ahead. The tlayuda with tasajo and Oaxacan cheese is extraordinary.
Total Budget
45 to 170 USD/day