Navarre
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Navarre is one of the most varied and undervisited regions in Spain. A compact kingdom that stretches from the Pyrenean peaks in the north to a desert landscape of eroded badlands in the south, via lush green valleys, medieval walled towns, the ancient Camino de Santiago, and the world's most famous bull-running city. This 3-day route covers the hidden heart of Navarre. Pamplona beyond San Fermin, the extraordinary Pyrenean valley of Roncal and the medieval villages of the Camino Frances, the lunar badlands of Bardenas Reales that look more like Utah than Spain, and the fairytale Gothic castle of Olite that was once the most magnificent royal palace in medieval Europe.
Best Time To Visit
April to October (Pyrenees best June to September)
Getting There
Fly into Pamplona (PNA) or Bilbao (BIO)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
PAMPLONA
MORNING
PAMPLONA BEYOND SAN FERMIN
Most visitors know Pamplona only for the Running of the Bulls in July. But Pamplona is a genuinely extraordinary city year-round. The medieval old town is one of the finest in northern Spain, completely intact within its original walls. The 16th-century citadel is a masterpiece of Renaissance military architecture, still surrounded by its original star-shaped moat, now a beautiful park almost entirely visited only by locals. Free to enter and extraordinary. Drive: 10 min walk to Cathedral
MIDDAY
PAMPLONA CATHEDRAL AND THE HIDDEN CLOISTER
Pamplona Cathedral is one of the finest Gothic buildings in Spain but almost nobody visits beyond the facade. The cloister is considered the most beautiful Gothic cloister in the world by many architectural historians, with extraordinarily delicate tracery from the 14th century. The Diocesan Museum inside contains the finest collection of medieval religious art in Navarre. Entry approx 7 euros. Drive: 15 min drive to Camino villages
AFTERNOON
THE CAMINO FRANCES VILLAGES OF NAVARRE
The stretch of the Camino de Santiago through Navarre passes through some of the most beautiful medieval villages in Spain. The village of Puente la Reina has a magnificent 11th-century pilgrim bridge. Cirauqui above it is a perfectly preserved hilltop walled village. Estella, the city where the Camino rests, has an extraordinary 12th-century royal palace facade. All are free and largely unvisited outside of Camino season.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo de Navarra in Pamplona is housed in a 16th-century hospital and contains one of the most important collections of Romanesque art in Spain. The Roman mosaics from the ancient city of Pompaelo are extraordinary. Entry approx 2 euros and almost never visited despite being one of the finest regional museums in the country.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Iruna, Pamplona The most famous cafe in Pamplona, Hemingway's favourite, on the Plaza del Castillo since 1888. Essential first morning stop. | Lunch: Bar Gaucho, Pamplona The most celebrated pintxos bar in Pamplona. The foie gras and mushroom pintxos are extraordinary. Arrive at 1pm sharp. | Dinner: Rodero Restaurante, Pamplona One Michelin star. Outstanding modern Navarran cuisine celebrating the region's extraordinary produce. Book well ahead.
DAY 2
BARDENAS REALES AND RONCAL
MORNING
BARDENAS REALES, SPAIN'S DESERT BADLANDS
The Bardenas Reales is one of the most extraordinary and alien landscapes in Spain. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve of eroded clay, sandstone towers and flat-topped mesas in ochre, grey and white that looks more like the American Southwest than Europe. The Cabezo de Castildetierra, a lone pinnacle rising from the desert floor, is the most photographed landscape in Navarre. Drive the marked route through the park and walk the short trails to the viewpoints. Free entry. Drive: 1.5 hour drive to Roncal
MIDDAY
VALLE DE RONCAL, THE HIDDEN PYRENEAN KINGDOM
The Valle de Roncal is one of the most beautiful and least visited Pyrenean valleys in Spain. Eight villages of traditional stone houses stretch up the valley to the French border. The village of Roncal produces the only cheese in Spain with a Protected Designation of Origin controlled by a single valley, Queso Roncal. Walk the village, visit the museum of the celebrated tenor Julián Gayarre who was born here, and buy the finest cheese in Navarre directly from the producers. Drive: 30 min drive to Ochagavia
AFTERNOON
OCHAGAVIA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE IN NAVARRE
Ochagavia is consistently voted the most beautiful village in Navarre. A perfectly preserved medieval settlement on both banks of the Anduña river, connected by an ancient stone bridge, with traditional stone houses, a Romanesque church and a backdrop of beech forests rising to the Pyrenean peaks. Almost no tourists visit despite it being extraordinary. The surrounding Bosque de Irati is the largest beech and fir forest in the Iberian Peninsula.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Bosque de Irati above Ochagavia is the second largest beech forest in Europe and one of the most beautiful landscapes in the Pyrenees. A 45-minute drive from the village leads to the Embalse de Irabia reservoir deep in the forest, surrounded by ancient beeches and completely free of tourists. One of the finest forest landscapes in Spain.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Arguedas near Bardenas Grab coffee in the last village before entering the desert park. Fuel up before the walk. | Lunch: Venta del Queso, Roncal Small restaurant in Roncal village serving the valley's famous cheese with local cured meats and txakoli. Unmissable. | Dinner: Restaurante Ochagavia Traditional Navarran restaurant in the beautiful village. Local lamb, river trout and the finest Roncal cheese.
DAY 3
OLITE AND SOUTHERN NAVARRE
MORNING
OLITE, THE FAIRYTALE CASTLE OF NAVARRE
The Palacio Real of Olite is one of the most extraordinary medieval royal palaces in Europe. Built for Carlos III of Navarre in the early 15th century, it bristles with towers, turrets, hanging gardens and gilded chambers in a Gothic fantasy that would not look out of place in a fairy tale. The Navarran court was one of the most sophisticated in medieval Europe and the palace reflects this. Entry approx 4.50 euros and includes the castle walls and towers. Drive: 30 min drive to Ujue
MIDDAY
UJUE, THE FORTRESS VILLAGE ABOVE THE PLAINS
Ujue is one of the most dramatically positioned villages in Navarre, a fortified hilltop settlement above the southern plains with extraordinary views over the Ebro valley and on clear days to the Pyrenees and the Sierra de Gredos beyond. The Romanesque church fortified like a castle sits at the highest point and contains a revered 14th-century silver statue of the Virgin. The village is largely unchanged since the medieval period. Drive: 40 min drive to Estella
AFTERNOON
ESTELLA, THE CITY WHERE THE CAMINO RESTS
Estella is one of the most important Camino de Santiago cities and one of the most overlooked in Spain. The royal palace of the Kings of Navarre has the finest Romanesque facade in Navarre, a riot of carved capitals and sculptural detail from the 12th century. The church of San Pedro de la Rua has an extraordinary Romanesque cloister. Walk the medieval streets that have welcomed pilgrims since the 11th century.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Monastery of Irache, just 2km from Estella, contains the most extraordinary wine fountain in Spain. A bodega attached to the monastery has provided free wine to Camino pilgrims since the 11th century, with a tap dispensing free Navarran red wine 24 hours a day that anyone can drink. Free, always open, and one of the most joyful discoveries on the entire Camino.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Olite village The village has several charming cafes within the shadow of the castle. Breakfast before it opens at 10am. | Lunch: Restaurante Merindad de Olite Outstanding restaurant in the castle village. Local lamb, asparagus (in season) and excellent Navarra wines. | Dinner: Casa Marchena, Estella Traditional Navarran restaurant. Order the menu del dia for the best value introduction to the local cuisine.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Pamplona, Night 1 Hotel Palacio Guendulain, a stunning 18th-century palace in the old town. Approx 130 to 200 euros per night. Roncal or Ochagavia, Night 2 Rural casa rural in the Pyrenean valleys from approx 60 euros per night. Budget Option Pamplona: Pension Otano from approx 45 euros. Olite: Hotel Garces from approx 55 euros.
Top Tips
1. If visiting in July, book Pamplona accommodation a full year ahead for San Fermin week.
2. Bardenas Reales is best at sunrise or sunset when the light turns the badlands golden.
3. Pamplona Cathedral cloister entry requires a ticket. Buy online to avoid queuing.
4. Navarre white asparagus from the Ebro valley is the finest in Spain. Order it April to June.
5. The free wine fountain at Monastery of Irache near Estella is open 24 hours. Bring a cup.
6. Olite castle entry includes the rooftop towers. Climb all of them for panoramic views.
Total Budget
75 to 120 euros/day