Murcia
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Murcia is Spain's most overlooked region. Wedged between Andalusia and Valencia on the southeastern coast, it contains one of the most extraordinary Roman port cities in the world, a Baroque cathedral that rivals Salamanca, Spain's best free tapas tradition, wild mountain national parks and a coastline of hidden beaches almost entirely unknown to international visitors. This 3-day route covers the hidden heart of Murcia. The extraordinary Baroque city of Murcia where every drink comes with a free tapa, the ancient Roman port of Cartagena that predates even Rome's golden age, the dramatic natural park of Sierra Espuna and the spectacularly over-the-top Baroque city of Lorca, with its extraordinary Easter processions and forgotten fortress.
Best Time To Visit
March to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Murcia Airport (RMU) or Alicante (ALC)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 95 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
MURCIA CITY
MORNING
MURCIA CATHEDRAL, THE BAROQUE MASTERPIECE NOBODY VISITS
Murcia Cathedral is one of the most extraordinary Baroque buildings in Spain and almost entirely unknown to international visitors. Built over 300 years from 1394 to 1792, the facade is a riot of Baroque exuberance, different in style on every level. The bell tower is the finest in Spain outside of Seville and can be climbed for extraordinary views over the city and the Segura river plain. The interior contains the finest collection of sculptures by Francisco Salzillo, the greatest sculptor of 18th-century Spain. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 10 min walk to old town
MIDDAY
MURCIA'S FREE TAPAS CULTURE
Murcia is one of the last Spanish cities where ordering a drink still earns you a free tapa. The area around the Plaza de las Flores and the Calle de la Traperia contains the highest density of traditional tapas bars in the city. Order a beer or wine at any of the traditional bars and a tapa of local food arrives automatically. The local specialties include marinera (bread roll with Russian salad and anchovy), pasteles de carne (meat pastries) and zarangollo (a local egg and vegetable dish). Drive: 10 min walk to Arab walls
AFTERNOON
THE ARAB WALLS AND HIDDEN MURCIA
Murcia was a major Moorish city for 500 years and substantial remains of the Arab city survive beneath the modern one. The Muralla Arabe, sections of the original 9th-century city walls, are preserved in various locations including the spectacular underground display in the Plaza Juan XXIII. The Casino de Murcia, a private members club founded in 1847, contains one of the most extraordinary interiors in Spain with an Arab hall, a Pompeian room and a Louis XVI ballroom. Ask to enter as a visitor.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo Salzillo in Murcia contains the finest collection of polychrome religious sculpture in Spain, the life's work of Francisco Salzillo who spent his entire career in Murcia. The eight processional floats he created for the Easter processions are extraordinary works of art. Entry approx 5 euros and almost entirely unvisited by international tourists despite being world-class.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Correa, Murcia The most beloved traditional cafe in Murcia. Strong coffee and local pasteles de carne before the cathedral opens. | Lunch: Tapas bars, Plaza de las Flores Order at three or four different bars. Each drink brings a different free tapa. The most affordable lunch in Spain. | Dinner: Restaurante El Churra, Murcia The most celebrated traditional restaurant in Murcia. Local rice dishes, lamb from the mountains and excellent Jumilla wines.
DAY 2
CARTAGENA
MORNING
CARTAGENA, THE ROMAN CITY THAT OUTDATES THE EMPIRE
Cartagena was founded by the Carthaginians in 228 BC and became the most important port in Roman Hispania. The Teatro Romano de Cartagena, one of the finest Roman theatres in the world, was buried under a medieval neighbourhood for 1,500 years and only rediscovered in 1988. It has been magnificently restored and the museum built around it is extraordinary. The entry tunnel passes through 2,000 years of history layer by layer. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 15 min walk around old town
MIDDAY
CARTAGENA'S EXTRAORDINARY MODERNIST ARCHITECTURE
Cartagena experienced an extraordinary economic boom in the late 19th century from its mining industry and spent its new wealth on modernist architecture that rivals Barcelona. The Casa Cervantes, the Gran Hotel, the Palacio Consistorial and the Casino are all extraordinary modernist buildings concentrated in the small old town centre. The Ascensor Panoramico, a glass lift built into the castle hill, gives the finest view over the city and harbour. Drive: 20 min drive to hidden coast
AFTERNOON
CALBLANQUE, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HIDDEN COAST IN MURCIA
Calblanque Regional Park is one of the most extraordinary and unknown coastal landscapes in Spain. A series of wild beaches, salt flats and rocky headlands entirely undeveloped and accessible only on foot or by dirt track. The Playa de Calblanque is considered one of the finest unspoiled beaches on the Mediterranean. The surrounding salt lakes attract thousands of flamingos in winter and spring. Free entry, no facilities, extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Punic barrio of Cartagena contains the most important Carthaginian archaeological remains in Spain. Underground ruins from the original Carthaginian city of Qart Hadasht, including walls, houses and a monumental staircase from 228 BC. Entry approx 6 euros and combined with the Roman theatre entry. One of the great forgotten archaeological sites of the western Mediterranean.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Cartagena old town Several excellent cafes near the Roman theatre entrance. Breakfast before it opens at 10am. | Lunch: Restaurante La Catedral, Cartagena Outstanding fish restaurant in the shadow of the old cathedral ruins. Fresh Mediterranean catch and local wines. | Dinner: Lo Pagan, Mar Menor coast Drive to Lo Pagan on the Mar Menor lagoon for the finest sunset mud baths and fresh fish in the most surreal setting.
DAY 3
SIERRA ESPUNA AND LORCA
MORNING
SIERRA ESPUNA NATURAL PARK, THE FORGOTTEN MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS
The Sierra Espuna is one of the finest natural parks in southeastern Spain and almost entirely unknown to international visitors. The park was reforested in the early 20th century and today contains dense pine forests, dramatic rocky ridges and extraordinary views over the Murcian plain to the sea. The historic ice wells (pozos de la nieve) built in the 17th century to supply ice to the coastal cities are extraordinary architectural curiosities in the mountain landscape. Drive: 45 min drive to Lorca
MIDDAY
LORCA, THE BAROQUE CITY OF SPAIN'S MOST EXTRAORDINARY EASTER
Lorca is one of the most extraordinary small cities in Spain and almost entirely unknown outside the country. The old town is a spectacle of Baroque excess, with the extraordinary Colegiata de San Patricio, the Palacio de Guevara and dozens of ornate palaces from the 17th and 18th centuries. Lorca's Semana Santa (Holy Week) is one of the most extraordinary in Spain, a theatrical spectacle of biblical processions that UNESCO has listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage. The city museum explains the tradition brilliantly. Drive: 30 min drive to Lorca castle
AFTERNOON
LORCA CASTLE, THE FORTRESS ABOVE THE CITY
The Fortaleza del Sol above Lorca is a magnificent medieval castle that changed hands repeatedly between Christians and Moors for 300 years and contains extraordinary remains from both cultures. The views from the towers over Lorca, the Guadalentin valley and the Sierra Espuna mountains beyond are extraordinary. The recent archaeological excavations have uncovered Moorish palaces and Christian chapels of great beauty. Entry approx 10 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Santuario de la Virgen de la Fuensanta above Murcia is the patron saint's sanctuary perched on a cliff above the Segura river gorge with extraordinary views over the city and plain. A pilgrimage route of 8km from the city centre passes through olive groves and ermitas to the sanctuary. Free entry and virtually unvisited by anyone except local pilgrims on feast days.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Sierra Espuna village Stop for coffee in the village of Alhama de Murcia at the park entrance before the mountain drive. | Lunch: Restaurante Los Naranjos, Lorca Outstanding traditional Murcian restaurant. Local lamb, vegetables from the fertile Guadalentin valley. | Dinner: Restaurante Rincón de Paco, Murcia Return to Murcia for dinner. Beloved neighbourhood restaurant near the cathedral. Local rice and free tapas culture.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Murcia, Nights 1 and 3 Hotel Arco de San Juan, a boutique hotel in a converted 18th-century palace. Approx 70 to 120 euros per night. Cartagena, Night 2 Hotel Los Habaneros, fine hotel in the old town near the Roman theatre. Approx 65 to 100 euros per night. Budget Option Murcia: Hotel Siete Coronas from approx 45 euros. Cartagena: Pension Oriente from approx 40 euros.
Top Tips
1. Murcia's free tapas bars serve from 1pm and 8pm. Order a drink and food arrives automatically.
2. The Casino de Murcia interior can usually be visited by asking at the door. It is not always advertised.
3. Calblanque beach has no facilities at all. Bring water, food and sun protection for the full day.
4. Lorca Easter processions take place Holy Week in March or April. Book accommodation a year ahead.
5. The Roman Theatre in Cartagena is best visited when it opens at 10am before the tour groups arrive.
6. Jumilla red wine from the hills northwest of Murcia is exceptional value and largely unknown outside Spain.
Total Budget
70 to 110 euros/day