Moselle
5
Day Itinerary •
Germany
Five days in the Moselle valley and its surrounding landscape reveals the full extraordinary depth of Germany's finest wine river. Beyond Cochem, Beilstein and Bernkastel lie the volcanic maar lakes of the Eifel plateau, the extraordinary art nouveau architecture of Traben-Trarbach, the Saar valley with the world's most expensive Riesling estate and the Roman capital of Trier with its extraordinary gates and baths. This route covers the complete Moselle experience from the lower valley castles and the perfectly preserved village of Beilstein through the wine heartland of Bernkastel and the Roman grandeur of Trier to the volcanic landscape of the Eifel and the extraordinary mineral Riesling of the Saar valley. Five days on Germany's most beguiling river.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Train to Koblenz from Cologne or Frankfurt
Getting Around
Moselle railway, car for Eifel, cycling on the valley route
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 230 EUR per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, some vineyard walking
DAY 1
COCHEM AND BEILSTEIN
MORNING
COCHEM AND THE REICHSBURG CASTLE, THE FINEST TOWN ON THE MOSELLE
Cochem is the most extraordinary small town on the Moselle, its extraordinary neo-Gothic Reichsburg castle rebuilt in 1877 after destruction in the War of the Palatine Succession, its extraordinary half-timbered market square, the cable car to the Pinnerkreuz viewpoint and the Moselle loop visible from the heights making it the finest introduction to the valley. The castle tour is the finest on the Moselle. Entry approx 9 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min train
MIDDAY
BEILSTEIN, THE MOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED VILLAGE ON THE MOSELLE
Beilstein 14km from Cochem is the most extraordinarily preserved medieval wine village in Germany, its tiny Marktplatz entirely surrounded by 16th and 17th-century half-timbered buildings unchanged for centuries, its extraordinary Carmelite monastery ruin above the village and the Burg Metternich castle ruin on the cliff above giving it a theatrical perfection. The village has no supermarket, no bank, no through traffic. Accessible by boat from Cochem in summer. Entry to castle approx 3 euros. Train/Travel: 20 min boat
AFTERNOON
THE MOSEL WINE ROUTE AND THE FINEST RIESLING ESTATES
The Moselle valley between Cochem and Koblenz contains the finest concentration of Riesling wine estates in Germany, the extraordinary slate soil of the steep valley slopes producing wines of extraordinary mineral intensity unlike any other region. The Weingut Heymann-Lowenstein at Winningen and the Weingut Pur at Hatzenport are the finest small producers in the lower Moselle. Wine tastings from approx 8 euros per person. The vineyard footpath above Winningen is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Calmont vineyard above Bremm near Cochem is the steepest vineyard in Europe at a 65-degree gradient, its extraordinary Elbling and Riesling vines clinging to the near-vertical Devonian slate cliff above the extraordinary Bremm loop of the Moselle. The via ferrata climbing route through the vineyard is the finest in the Moselle valley, with extraordinary views over the river loop from the cliff face. Guide and equipment hire from Bremm approx 25 euros. The vineyard monorail used by harvesters is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Alte Thorschenke, Cochem Outstanding Moselle breakfast at the finest historic inn in the valley. Local smoked ham and Moselle bread. | Lunch: Weinstube Zum Stuben, Beilstein Outstanding traditional Moselle food in the finest restaurant in the most preserved village. | Dinner: Lohspeicher, Cochem The finest restaurant in Cochem. Outstanding local pike, venison and Moselle Riesling. Book ahead.
DAY 2
BERNKASTEL-KUES
MORNING
BERNKASTEL-KUES, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY WINE TOWN IN THE MOSELLE
Bernkastel-Kues is the most extraordinary wine town in the Moselle valley, its extraordinary Marktplatz of half-timbered buildings considered the finest market square in the Rhineland-Palatinate, its Landshut castle ruin above the vineyards and the extraordinary Weingut Dr Loosen producing some of the finest Riesling Spatlesen in the world making it the essential stop on the upper Moselle. The market square at dawn is extraordinary. Entry to wine estate free. Train/Travel: 45 min train
MIDDAY
THE MOSELLE WINE TASTINGS AND VINEYARD WALK ABOVE BERNKASTEL
The Bernkastel vineyard walk to the Doctor vineyard, the most expensive vineyard plot in Germany per hectare, gives the finest view of the Moselle loop and the town below. The extraordinary Doctor Riesling, named for its alleged medicinal properties, is produced from a 3.26-hectare plot on near-vertical slate and sells for extraordinary prices. The Weingut Wegeler and Weingut Dr Loosen offer the finest estate tastings. Tastings from approx 10 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
TRABEN-TRARBACH AND THE FINEST ART NOUVEAU ARCHITECTURE ON THE MOSELLE
Traben-Trarbach is the most extraordinary art nouveau town on the Moselle, its extraordinary collection of Jugendstil buildings from 1900 to 1914 including the extraordinary Hotel Bellevue, the Bruckentor bridge gate and the Villa Caecilia making it the finest undiscovered architectural destination in the valley. The underground wine palace tunnels beneath the town are the finest cellar system on the Moselle. Entry to tunnels approx 6 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Moselle wine ferry between Bernkastel and Kues, a tiny hand-operated chain ferry connecting the two halves of the twin town, is the shortest and most extraordinary river crossing in Germany, a 30-second crossing that has operated continuously since the 19th century. The view up the Moselle from the ferry deck at golden hour, with the Landshut castle ruin on the cliff and the vineyard slopes catching the low light, is the finest single view in the Moselle valley. Ferry approx 1 euro per crossing.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe am Markt, Bernkastel Outstanding breakfast on the finest market square in the Rhineland. Local bakery bread and Moselle honey. | Lunch: Zum Doktor, Bernkastel-Kues Outstanding Moselle wine estate lunch. Extraordinary local fish and the finest Doctor Riesling by the glass. | Dinner: Romantik Hotel Jugendstil, Traben-Trarbach The finest art nouveau dining room on the Moselle. Outstanding local venison and Moselle wines.
DAY 3
TRIER AND THE UPPER MOSELLE
MORNING
TRIER, THE OLDEST CITY IN GERMANY AND THE ROMAN CAPITAL OF THE WEST
Trier at the head of the Moselle valley was the capital of the Western Roman Empire under Constantine and the most extraordinary Roman city north of the Alps. The extraordinary Porta Nigra, the finest surviving Roman city gate in Europe, the imperial baths of the Kaiserthermen, the extraordinary Basilica of Constantine and the Roman amphitheatre give Trier the finest Roman heritage of any city in Germany. The Karl Marx Haus museum is the finest in the city. Entry to Porta Nigra approx 4 euros. Train/Travel: 1.5 hours train
MIDDAY
THE MOSELLE VALLEY FROM TRIER TO SCHWEICH, THE UPPER MOSELLE WINE VILLAGES
The upper Moselle between Trier and Zell contains the finest and most compact wine village scenery on the river, its extraordinary 16th-century village of Piesport with the finest Goldtropfchen vineyard, the extraordinary Trittenheim village in its perfect Moselle loop and the remarkable Neumagen-Dhron with its extraordinary Roman wine boat sculpture giving the finest 20km of the upper valley. The B53 riverside road is the finest drive in the Rhineland. Train/Travel: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
ZELL AND THE SCHWARZE KATZ, THE MOST FAMOUS MOSELLE WINE LABEL
Zell on the Moselle is the most famous wine village in Germany for a single wine label, the extraordinary Schwarze Katz black cat wine whose extraordinary story of three wine merchants arguing over which barrel to buy until a black cat settled the dispute has made it one of the most recognised German wine brands in the world. The extraordinary Zell market square and the vineyards above the town are remarkable. Wine tasting from approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Roman wine boat of Neumagen-Dhron, a 3rd-century relief carving showing a Roman river barge loaded with wine barrels rowed by eight oarsmen, is the oldest representation of wine transport in the world and is displayed in the Rheinisches Landesmuseum in Trier. The original site where the carving was found in the walls of Neumagen castle has an extraordinary replica displayed outdoors beside the Moselle. The Neumagen village square with its extraordinary Roman-era wine heritage is entirely free to visit.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Domstein, Trier Outstanding Roman-themed breakfast at the extraordinary restaurant beside the Dom in the oldest city in Germany. | Lunch: Piesporter market stalls Outstanding Moselle sausages and local wine from the vineyard village market stalls. | Dinner: Zur Goldenen Gans, Zell The finest inn in Zell. Outstanding Moselle fish and Schwarze Katz Riesling in the extraordinary wine cellar.
DAY 4
THE EIFEL VOLCANIC PLATEAU
MORNING
THE EIFEL VOLCANIC REGION AND THE MAAR LAKES
The Eifel plateau above the Moselle contains the most extraordinary volcanic landscape in Germany, its extraordinary maar lakes filling ancient volcanic craters with water of extraordinary clarity. The Laacher See, the largest maar lake in Germany at 3.3 square kilometres, and the extraordinary Maria Laach Benedictine monastery on its shores are the finest sites in the Eifel. The Vulkaneifel discovery trail connects the finest volcanic features. Entry to monastery free, maar lake free. Train/Travel: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
MANDERSCHEID AND THE TWIN CASTLE RUINS OF THE EIFEL
Manderscheid in the Eifel is the most extraordinary hidden village in the volcanic plateau, its two medieval castle ruins on opposite sides of the Lieser valley gorge, the extraordinary Maar lake of Meerfelder Maar within walking distance and the complete absence of tourist infrastructure making it the finest undiscovered destination above the Moselle. The walk between the two castle ruins through the gorge is extraordinary. Entry to castles free. Train/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE MOSELLE CYCLING ROUTE, THE FINEST RIVER CYCLING IN GERMANY
The Moselle cycling route from Koblenz to Trier is the finest river cycling trail in Germany, its 311km of virtually car-free riverside path through extraordinary vineyards, wine villages and castle-studded river bends making it the most popular long-distance cycle route in the country. The section between Cochem and Bernkastel is the finest 50km stretch. Bicycle hire from Cochem or Bernkastel from approx 15 euros per day.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Gerolstein Dolomites in the northern Eifel are the most extraordinary limestone rock formations in Germany outside Bavaria, their extraordinary tooth-like pillars of Devonian reef limestone rising from the forest above the Kyll valley in a landscape that appears entirely Alpine but is less than an hour from the Moselle. The Munterley viewpoint above Gerolstein gives the finest panorama of the dolomite formations. The extraordinary Auberg mineral spring has supplied sparkling water since Roman times. Entirely free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Maria Laach monastery cafe Outstanding Benedictine breakfast at the finest monastery on the Moselle plateau. Local honey and abbey bread. | Lunch: Manderscheid Gasthaus Outstanding Eifel regional food in the most extraordinary hidden village above the Moselle. | Dinner: Hotel Brauhaus, Wittlich Outstanding Rhineland-Palatinate food in the finest market town of the inner Eifel.
DAY 5
SAAR VALLEY AND KOBLENZ
MORNING
THE SAAR VALLEY, THE FINEST HIDDEN WINE VALLEY IN GERMANY
The Saar valley joining the Moselle at Konz near Trier is the most extraordinary and least visited wine valley in Germany, its extraordinary steep blue-slate vineyards producing the finest Riesling Kabinett and Spatlese in the world at the Weingut Egon Muller-Scharzhof, whose Scharzhofberger vineyard produces some of the most expensive dry white wine on earth. The extraordinary Saarburg waterfall in the town centre is the finest urban waterfall in the Rhineland. Entry to waterfall viewing area approx 1 euro. Train/Travel: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
SAARBURG AND THE FINEST WINERY TOWN IN THE SAAR VALLEY
Saarburg is the most extraordinary historic town in the Saar valley, its extraordinary castle ruin above the town, the extraordinary waterfall of the Leuk river dropping 18 metres through the town centre and the outstanding concentration of Saar wine estates in the surrounding vineyards making it the finest base for the upper Saar. The extraordinary bell foundry, one of the last in Germany, has produced church bells since 1705 and offers extraordinary tours. Bell foundry tour approx 5 euros. Train/Travel: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
KOBLENZ AND THE CABLE CAR TO EHRENBREITSTEIN FORTRESS
Koblenz at the Moselle-Rhine confluence is the finest city gateway for the Moselle valley, its extraordinary Ehrenbreitstein fortress on its 118-metre basalt rock, the cable car crossing the Rhine to the fortress, the extraordinary Deutsches Eck promontory and the remarkable Electoral Palace making it the finest city end-point for a Moselle journey. The cable car view over the confluence of the two great rivers is extraordinary. Fortress entry approx 8 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Weingut Egon Muller-Scharzhof at Wiltingen on the Saar produces what many critics consider the finest Riesling in the world, its extraordinary Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese selling at auction for over 10,000 euros per bottle. The extraordinary 18th-century estate house, the Scharzhofberg vineyard rising to 340 metres above the Saar and the extraordinary cellar tour are available by appointment. Contact through the estate directly. The Saarburg to Wiltingen vineyard walk is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Saarburg market cafe Outstanding breakfast at the market square cafe below the extraordinary Saarburg waterfall. | Lunch: Weingut Vollenweider, Traben-Trarbach Outstanding wine estate lunch on the return towards Koblenz. Extraordinary Moselle Riesling tasting. | Dinner: Weinhaus Hubertus, Koblenz Outstanding Rhineland farewell dinner. The finest Moselle wine list in Koblenz. Extraordinary river terrace.
Where To Stay
Cochem, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Lohspeicher or Alte Thorschenke. Approx 80 to 180 euros per night. Bernkastel-Kues, Night 3 Hotel Doctor Weinstuben. Approx 70 to 150 euros per night. Trier, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel Villa Hugel or Radisson Blu. Approx 90 to 200 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Laacher See maar lake: the volcano last erupted 12,900 years ago. Swim in the crater lake in summer. Extraordinary.
2. Egon Muller Scharzhofberg: contact the estate directly for cellar visits. Book months ahead. Extraordinary wines.
3. Manderscheid castle ruins: the footpath between the two castles through the Lieser gorge is entirely free and signposted.
4. Moselle cycling: cycle from Cochem to Bernkastel in one day, 70km. Flat riverside path entirely car-free.
5. Traben-Trarbach Jugendstil: the Hotel Bellevue art nouveau facade is the finest in the Moselle. Free to photograph.
6. Saarburg waterfall: the only waterfall flowing through the centre of a German town. Entry approx 1 euro.
Total Budget
70 to 225 EUR/day