Marrakech Atlas
5
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Five days in Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains takes you through one of the most sensory extraordinary experiences in the world, from the extraordinary djemaa el-fna at dusk with its snake charmers, storytellers and food stalls to the silence of the High Atlas at 3,000 metres, the Berber villages of the Ourika valley and the extraordinary Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa rising above the rose-red city. This route covers the complete Marrakech experience. The medina souks and the extraordinary Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs and the Koutoubia, the Majorelle Garden, the High Atlas mountain villages of Imlil and Aroumd, a night in a Berber guesthouse above the clouds, and the extraordinary Ourika valley with its waterfalls and saffron terraces.
Best Time To Visit
March to May or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Marrakech Menara (RAK)
Getting Around
Walking in medina, taxi and rental car for Atlas
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 160 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, some mountain hiking
DAY 1
THE MEDINA AND SOUKS
MORNING
THE MEDINA SOUKS AND THE KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE
Begin at the Koutoubia Mosque, the finest minaret in Morocco, then plunge into the medina souks at their most atmospheric in the morning. The souk des teinturiers dyers quarter, the souk des ferronniers metalworkers and the extraordinary carpet souks of the Rahba Kedima are all outstanding. The medina of Marrakech is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the most complex and rewarding urban labyrinth in North Africa. Free. Drive: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
THE BAHIA PALACE
The Bahia Palace, built in the 1890s for the Grand Vizier Ahmed ibn Musa, is the most extraordinary domestic interior in Marrakech. The extraordinary zellige tilework, the carved cedarwood ceilings and the remarkable harem courtyard with its central fountain are all outstanding. The palace was built to be the most beautiful in the world and it is very nearly that. Entry approx 7 euros. Go at opening time. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
DJEMAA EL-FNA AT DUSK, THE GREATEST SQUARE ON EARTH
The Djemaa el-Fna transforms entirely at dusk. The snake charmers, storytellers, acrobats and henna artists of the daytime give way to an extraordinary city of food stalls, musicians and fire-eaters as darkness falls. The smoke of a hundred grills, the drums of the Gnawa musicians and the extraordinary chaos of the square are unlike anything else in the world. Climb to any rooftop cafe for the finest view. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Marrakech, immediately south of the Bahia Palace, is the least visited and most atmospheric quarter of the medina. The extraordinary balconied houses, the remarkable Lazama Synagogue and the Jewish cemetery with its extraordinary whitewashed tombs are all remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Moroccan breakfast of msemen, argan oil and mint tea on the riad terrace. | Lunch: Cafe des Epices, Rahba Kedima Roof terrace above the spice market. Tagine and fresh juice. | Dinner: Djemaa el-Fna food stalls Eat at stall number 1 or 14. Harira soup, merguez and kefta.
DAY 2
PALACES, TOMBS AND GARDENS
MORNING
THE SAADIAN TOMBS AND EL BADI PALACE
The Saadian Tombs, sealed by Moulay Ismail in the 17th century and rediscovered in 1917, contain the most extraordinary funerary architecture in Morocco. The Chamber of the Twelve Columns with its extraordinary stalactite ceiling and the garden tombs are outstanding. El Badi Palace nearby, built by Ahmed el-Mansour in 1578, survives as magnificent ruins of what was once the greatest palace in the Islamic world. Entry approx 3 euros each. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE MEDERSA BEN YOUSSEF
The Ben Youssef Medersa, the largest theological college in Morocco, was built in the 14th century and expanded by the Saadians in 1565. The extraordinary central courtyard with its carved stucco, intricate zellige tilework and cedarwood screens is the finest example of Moroccan architectural decoration in the country. The student cells on the upper floors and the view over the medina rooftops from the gallery are outstanding. Entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min taxi
AFTERNOON
THE MAJORELLE GARDEN AND THE YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM
The Majorelle Garden, created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle between 1923 and 1962 and restored by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge, is the most extraordinary garden in Morocco. The cobalt blue studio, the cactus garden and the extraordinary collection of Moroccan pottery make it unlike any other garden in North Africa. The YSL Museum alongside is outstanding. Entry approx 12 euros. Book online.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Maison de la Photographie on Rue Ahel Fes in the northern medina contains the most extraordinary collection of historical photographs of Morocco from 1870 to 1950. The rooftop offers the finest view of the Atlas Mountains from any point in the medina. Entry approx 5 euros. Almost always quiet in the morning.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe near the Koutoubia Mint tea and msemen in the morning quiet before the sites open. | Lunch: Nomad Restaurant, medina Contemporary Moroccan food on a rooftop above the souks. | Dinner: Le Jardin restaurant Beautiful riad garden restaurant. The finest bastilla in Marrakech.
DAY 3
HIGH ATLAS AND IMLIL
MORNING
DRIVE TO IMLIL THROUGH THE HIGH ATLAS
The drive from Marrakech to Imlil climbs from the rose-red city through the extraordinary Moulay Brahim gorge to the High Atlas plateau at 1,740 metres. The snow-capped peak of Toubkal at 4,167 metres dominates the skyline as the valley narrows. The Berber villages of red mud brick clinging to the hillsides, the walnut and apple orchards and the extraordinary clarity of the mountain air announce a completely different Morocco. Approx 1.5 hours drive. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE VILLAGE OF AROUMD AND THE TOUBKAL APPROACH
Aroumd is the most extraordinary Berber village in the Toubkal massif, its remarkable stone and earth houses set at 1,900 metres above the Imlil valley with direct views of the Toubkal summit above. The mule track from Imlil to Aroumd climbs through walnut groves and past extraordinary mountain streams. The village women weave on doorstep looms and the extraordinary silence of the High Atlas is remarkable. Free. Drive: Return to Imlil
AFTERNOON
SUNSET ABOVE THE CLOUDS FROM THE IMLIL VALLEY
The Imlil valley at sunset, when the light turns the red earth of the Berber villages to deep amber and the snow on Toubkal glows pink, is one of the most extraordinary moments in Morocco. Walk the valley floor below Aroumd in the late afternoon, the extraordinary silence broken only by the Mizane river and distant cowbells. The guesthouse terrace dinner with the mountains above is unmissable.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Kasbah du Toubkal above Imlil, a restored Berber kasbah at 1,800 metres, has the finest panoramic view of the Toubkal massif from any accessible point in the High Atlas. Day visitors can take tea on the extraordinary terrace. The walk up from Imlil takes 20 minutes. Worth every step.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Marrakech Final riad breakfast before the mountain drive. | Lunch: Cafe Soleil, Imlil Simple Berber tagine and mint tea in the mountain village. | Dinner: Guesthouse dinner, Imlil Extraordinary home-cooked Berber dinner: harira, tagine and pastilla.
DAY 4
TOUBKAL FOOTHILLS AND RETURN
MORNING
DAWN IN THE HIGH ATLAS AND THE AZZADEN VALLEY
Wake before dawn in Imlil for the most extraordinary hour in the High Atlas, when the first light touches the Toubkal summit and the valley fills slowly with colour from the top down. The walk into the Azzaden valley west of Imlil passes through extraordinary walnut and poplar forest before opening into a remarkable hidden valley of Berber villages entirely unknown to most visitors. Free. Drive: 45 min walk
MIDDAY
THE BERBER VILLAGE OF TIZI OUSSEM
Tizi Oussem at the head of the Azzaden valley is the most extraordinary remote Berber village in the Toubkal region, its remarkable stone houses and terraced gardens at 1,800 metres backed by the Atlas ridgeline. The village cooperative sells extraordinary locally woven Berber carpets and argan oil products at source prices. Lunch in the village is simple and extraordinary. Free. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO MARRAKECH AND THE EVENING MEDINA
The drive back to Marrakech through the extraordinary Moulay Brahim gorge, the mountains receding behind as the city reappears below, is one of the great re-entries in travel. Return to the medina for a final afternoon in the souks, a hammam visit and a rooftop sunset drink over the Koutoubia before the final dinner. The contrast between mountain silence and medina chaos is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ouirgane valley, 60km south of Marrakech in the High Atlas foothills, is one of the most extraordinary hidden valleys near the city. The remarkable reservoir lake, the Berber villages on the hillsides and the extraordinary forest of cork oaks along the valley floor are all remarkable. Almost no visitors. Free to drive through.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Imlil Final mountain breakfast before the valley walk and return drive. | Lunch: Village lunch, Tizi Oussem Berber tagine cooked on a wood fire in the extraordinary Atlas village. | Dinner: Riad dinner, Marrakech Return to a fine medina riad for the finest bastilla and lamb in the city.
DAY 5
OURIKA VALLEY
MORNING
THE OURIKA VALLEY AND THE SAFFRON COOPERATIVE
The Ourika valley 30km south of Marrakech is the most accessible and beautiful of the High Atlas valleys, its extraordinary terraced hillsides of saffron, roses and mint dropping to the Ourika river below. The Cooperative Safran de l'Ourika at Tafza sells the finest saffron in Morocco at source. The drive up the valley passes extraordinary Berber villages and the remarkable Friday souk at Aghbalou. Free to drive. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE SETTI FATIMA WATERFALLS
The seven waterfalls above Setti Fatima village at the head of the Ourika valley are the most extraordinary natural feature near Marrakech. The walk up from the village through the remarkable gorge takes about 45 minutes to the first falls, with each successive waterfall more extraordinary than the last. The pool below the first fall is remarkable for swimming in summer. Entry free. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
FINAL MEDINA AFTERNOON AND THE DJEMAA AT DUSK
Return to Marrakech for a final afternoon in the medina. The northern souks around the Ben Youssef Mosque are the most authentic, the craftsmen still working in the extraordinary traditional workshops. The hammam of the medina offers the finest traditional Moroccan bath experience. Return to the Djemaa el-Fna for a final dusk performance and the smoke of the evening food stalls. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ksar Aït Ben Haddou, 200km southeast of Marrakech through the Tizi n'Tichka pass, is the most extraordinary earthen kasbah in Morocco and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The drive over the High Atlas through the Tichka pass at 2,260 metres is extraordinary. A day trip or en route to the Sahara. Entry approx 2 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Final Moroccan breakfast of amlou almond paste and fresh bread. | Lunch: Valley restaurant, Setti Fatima Trout from the Ourika river with Berber salads above the water. | Dinner: Final dinner, Djemaa el-Fna The extraordinary rooftop cafes above the square for the last sunset.
Where To Stay
Medina riad, Nights 1 to 2 Riad inside the medina walls. Approx 80 to 200 euros per night. Imlil guesthouse, Night 3 Berber guesthouse with Toubkal views. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night. Marrakech riad, Nights 4 to 5 Return to the medina for the final evenings. Approx 80 to 200 euros.
Top Tips
1. Hire a local guide for your first medina morning. Navigation without one wastes half a day.
2. The Djemaa el-Fna is at its best after sunset. Arrive at dusk and stay until the drums begin.
3. The Bahia Palace is extraordinary at opening time before the tour groups arrive at 10am.
4. Imlil village is the base for Toubkal. Book your guesthouse before arriving in summer.
5. The Ourika valley saffron cooperative sells the finest saffron in Morocco at excellent prices.
6. Bargaining in the souks is expected. Start at a third of the asking price and meet in the middle.
Total Budget
90 to 245 euros/day