Loire
5
Day Itinerary •
France
Five days in the Loire Valley lets you explore the full extraordinary length of France's royal playground, from the great hunting chateaux of the central Loire to the extraordinary wine country of Sancerre and Muscadet, the magnificent royal abbey of Fontevraud where the Plantagenet kings are buried, and the extraordinary tapestry city of Angers with the Apocalypse Tapestry, the largest medieval tapestry in the world. This route covers the complete Loire Valley. The grandes chateaux of Chambord, Chenonceau, Blois and Amboise, the troglodyte culture of the tufa cliffs, the finest wines of Vouvray, Chinon and Sancerre, the Plantagenet royal abbey of Fontevraud, and the extraordinary Angers with its medieval castle and the greatest tapestry cycle in existence.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Tours (TUF) or Paris then TGV to Tours
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
CHAMBORD AND BLOIS
MORNING
CHATEAU DE CHAMBORD, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY RENAISSANCE BUILDING
440 rooms, 365 chimneys and the extraordinary double-helix staircase believed designed by Leonardo da Vinci, where two staircases spiral around each other without ever meeting. The rooftop terrace is extraordinary. Entry approx 14 euros. Arrive at 9am opening. Drive: 45 min drive to Blois
MIDDAY
CHATEAU ROYAL DE BLOIS, FOUR CENTURIES IN ONE BUILDING
Four distinct wings spanning Gothic, Renaissance and Classical styles. The chamber where Catherine de Medici hid her poisons in 237 secret panels is extraordinary. The finest condensed history of the French monarchy. Entry approx 13 euros. Drive: 20 min walk around city
AFTERNOON
BLOIS OLD TOWN AND THE MAISON DE LA MAGIE
The finest old town in the Loire. The Maison de la Magie dedicated to Robert-Houdin who inspired Harry Houdini puts on extraordinary shows hourly from the facade. View from the chateau terrace over the Loire is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Foret de Chambord is the largest walled forest in Europe, 5,440 hectares enclosed by a 32km wall built by Francois I. Wild boar and deer roam freely. Accessible by marked trails from the chateau. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Blois Coffee before Chambord opens at 9am. | Lunch: Le Saint-Nicolas, Chambord area Local game, pike with beurre blanc and Cheverny wine. | Dinner: L'Orangerie du Chateau, Blois One Michelin star in the chateau grounds.
DAY 2
CHENONCEAU AND AMBOISE
MORNING
CHATEAU DE CHENONCEAU, THE CHATEAU OF THE LADIES
The most visited chateau in France after Versailles. Built on a bridge spanning the Cher river. The extraordinary women who shaped it: Diane de Poitiers built the bridge, Catherine de Medici added the gallery. Entry approx 15 euros. Book online to avoid queues. Drive: 20 min drive to Amboise
MIDDAY
AMBOISE, WHERE LEONARDO DA VINCI DIED
Leonardo spent his final years at the Chateau du Clos Luce at Francois I's invitation, connected to the royal chateau by an underground tunnel. He died here in 1519. The museum has extraordinary scale models of his inventions. Entry approx 17 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to troglodytes
AFTERNOON
THE TROGLODYTE CAVES OF THE LOIRE
The Loire Valley tufa cliffs are honeycombed with extraordinary cave dwellings inhabited from prehistoric times to today. The Troglodytes du Saut aux Loups is the finest site. Several cave wine cellars in Vouvray offer extraordinary tastings.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Pagode de Chanteloup near Amboise, a 7-storey Chinese pagoda standing alone in a forest built in 1775, is the most extraordinary folly in the Loire. The view from the top over the Loire valley is extraordinary. Entry approx 9 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Chenonceaux Coffee before Chenonceau opens. | Lunch: L'Orangerie de Chenonceau Outstanding in the chateau grounds. | Dinner: La Grange, Amboise Local zander, rillettes and Vouvray wine.
DAY 3
VILLANDRY AND CHINON
MORNING
CHATEAU DE VILLANDRY, THE GREATEST RENAISSANCE GARDEN
The finest Renaissance gardens in France, entirely reconstructed from original 16th-century plans. Three levels: the ornamental water garden, the extraordinary love garden of intricate box hedges, and the extraordinary geometric kitchen garden. Entry approx 13 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Azay
MIDDAY
CHATEAU D'AZAY-LE-RIDEAU, THE JEWEL OF THE LOIRE
The most beautiful small chateau in the Loire. An extraordinary early Renaissance building reflected in its moat, appearing to float on the Indre river. Entry approx 12 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Chinon
AFTERNOON
CHINON, JOAN OF ARC'S FORTRESS
The Forteresse Royale de Chinon on its cliff above the Vienne where Joan of Arc first met the Dauphin in 1429. The finest Chinon red from Cabernet Franc is the best red wine in the Loire. Entry approx 10 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Maison de la Riviere at La Deviniere near Chinon, where Rabelais was born in 1494, is an extraordinary small museum in an authentic 15th-century farmhouse. Entry approx 6 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Tours Coffee before driving to Villandry. | Lunch: Chateau de Villandry restaurant Local asparagus, Loire fish and Vouvray. | Dinner: Les Annees 30, Chinon Local rillettes and the finest Chinon Cabernet Franc.
DAY 4
FONTEVRAUD AND SAUMUR
MORNING
ABBAYE ROYALE DE FONTEVRAUD, WHERE THE PLANTAGENETS SLEEP
The Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud is the largest monastic complex in France and the burial church of the Plantagenet dynasty. Henry II of England, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard the Lionheart and Isabella of Angouleme are buried here in extraordinary polychrome recumbent effigies. The abbey was founded in 1101, used as a prison from 1804 to 1963, and is now restored to extraordinary beauty. Entry approx 12 euros. The extraordinary Romanesque kitchen building with its extraordinary fish-smoked roof is extraordinary. Drive: 20 min drive to Saumur
MIDDAY
SAUMUR, THE CHATEAU ABOVE THE LOIRE AND THE SPARKLING WINE
Saumur is the finest town in Anjou, its extraordinary white chateau on a cliff above the Loire one of the most beautiful in the Loire Valley. The extraordinary Ecole Nationale d'Equitation, the French national equestrian school, gives public performances of the finest haute ecole dressage. The Saumur Champigny red and the extraordinary Saumur Mousseux sparkling wine from the local cave cellars are both outstanding. Entry to chateau approx 9 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Doue
AFTERNOON
THE TROGLODYTE CITY OF DOUE-LA-FONTAINE
Doue-la-Fontaine is the most extraordinary troglodyte city in the Loire, an entire medieval town carved into the tufa rock. The Caves de la Genevraie is a remarkable underground complex of tuffeau stone rooms used as wine cellars, mushroom farms and even a zoo (the extraordinary Bioparc de Doue is partly underground). The extraordinary Arena de Doue, an ancient amphitheatre carved entirely from the tufa, is one of the most extraordinary ancient theatres in France.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cadre Noir dressage school at Saumur gives extraordinary public performances in the magnificent manege. The black uniform of the riders is the most extraordinary equestrian tradition in France. Performances run spring and summer; check dates at cadrenoir.fr.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Fontevraud village Coffee before the abbey opens. The morning light in the cloister is extraordinary. | Lunch: Restaurant in Fontevraud Abbey Outstanding restaurant in the extraordinary restored abbey. Local Loire produce. | Dinner: Les Miserables, Saumur Outstanding traditional restaurant in the chateau town. Local mushrooms and Saumur Champigny.
DAY 5
ANGERS AND SANCERRE
MORNING
ANGERS, THE APOCALYPSE TAPESTRY
The Chateau d'Angers contains the Tenture de l'Apocalypse, the largest medieval tapestry in the world. Commissioned in 1375 by Louis I of Anjou, the original set of 90 panels (67 survive) depicts the Book of Revelation in extraordinary vivid colour. The tapestry stretches over 100 metres in a specially designed gallery. The work is extraordinary and profoundly moving. Entry approx 10 euros. The chateau's 17 round towers and distinctive black and white striped walls are also extraordinary. Drive: 1 hour drive east
MIDDAY
THE LOIRE A VELO, CYCLING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VALLEY IN FRANCE
The Loire a Velo is a 900km signed cycling route along both banks of the Loire from Cuffy in the Cher to Saint-Brevin-les-Pins on the Atlantic coast. The section between Amboise and Blois is the finest, passing below the extraordinary Loire cliffs and through the finest villages in the valley. Hire a bike from any Loire town for approx 15 euros per day and ride 30km through the finest Loire landscape. Drive: 2 hours drive to Sancerre
AFTERNOON
SANCERRE, THE MOST CELEBRATED WINE VILLAGE IN FRANCE
Sancerre is the most celebrated wine village in the Loire, its extraordinary hilltop position above the Loire valley giving views over the extraordinary patchwork of Sauvignon Blanc vineyards stretching to the horizon. The Sancerre blanc is considered the finest expression of Sauvignon Blanc in the world. The village itself is beautiful. Several vignerons offer tastings of both the white and the extraordinary Sancerre rouge from Pinot Noir.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Chateau de Brissac near Angers is the tallest chateau in France, with 7 storeys and 204 rooms. Still privately owned and inhabited by the same family since 1502. Entry approx 10 euros. The owner often conducts tours personally. One of the most extraordinary private chateaux in the Loire.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Angers old town Coffee below the extraordinary black and white castle walls. | Lunch: Restaurant in Angers Local Loire fish, rillettes and the finest Anjou white wine. | Dinner: Tour, Sancerre The finest restaurant in the most celebrated wine village. Extraordinary Sancerre and local lamb.
Where To Stay
Blois or Chambord area, Night 1 Hotel de Blois or a chateau hotel. Approx 90 to 160 euros per night. Amboise, Nights 2 to 3 Hotel le Choiseul, beautiful 18th-century hotel on the Loire. Approx 110 to 180 euros. Saumur or Fontevraud, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel Anne d'Anjou, Saumur, or hotel in Fontevraud village. Approx 90 to 160 euros.
Top Tips
1. Chambord at 9am opening: the double helix staircase with nobody else on it is extraordinary.
2. Chenonceau is most beautiful in reflection at dusk. Book evening entry or the light show in summer.
3. Vouvray wine tasting in a cave cellar is free at several producers. Ring ahead to Domaine Huet.
4. Loire Valley troglodyte caves are lived in by 2,000 people today. Several are open as gites.
5. Chinon red wine (Cabernet Franc) is the finest undervalued red in France. Buy it from small producers.
6. The Loire by bicycle is extraordinary. Hire a bike in Tours and cycle the Loire a Velo path.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day