Loire
3
Day Itinerary •
France
The Loire Valley is the garden of France, a UNESCO World Heritage landscape of extraordinary Renaissance chateaux, formal gardens, cave-dwelling troglodytes and the finest white wines in the world. The great French kings retreated here from Paris to build their pleasure palaces along the Loire, and the result is the greatest concentration of Renaissance architecture outside Italy, set in a valley of extraordinary gentle beauty. This 3-day route covers the hidden Loire. Chambord, the most extraordinary Renaissance hunting lodge ever built, with Leonardo da Vinci's extraordinary double helix staircase at its heart. Chenonceau, the castle built on a bridge across the Cher river. The extraordinary troglodyte culture of the Loire cliffs. And the finest Vouvray and Sancerre wines from the Loire vineyards.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Tours (TUF) or Paris then TGV to Tours
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
CHAMBORD AND BLOIS
MORNING
CHATEAU DE CHAMBORD, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY RENAISSANCE BUILDING IN FRANCE
Chambord is the most extraordinary building in the Loire Valley and one of the most remarkable in the world. Built by Francois I from 1519 as a hunting lodge, it has 440 rooms, 365 chimneys and 84 staircases. At its centre is the extraordinary double-helix staircase, believed to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, where two staircases spiral around each other without ever meeting so that people ascending and descending never cross. The rooftop terrace above the chimneys is extraordinary. Entry approx 14 euros. Drive: 45 min drive to Blois
MIDDAY
CHATEAU ROYAL DE BLOIS, THE HISTORY OF FRANCE IN ONE BUILDING
The Chateau Royal de Blois contains four distinct wings built across four centuries, each in a completely different style: the extraordinary Gothic wing of Louis XII, the magnificent Renaissance spiral staircase of Francois I, the Classical wing of Gaston d'Orleans and the Gothic wing of Charles d'Orleans. The chamber where Catherine de Medici hid her poisons in 237 secret panels is extraordinary. The entire history of the French monarchy told in one building. Entry approx 13 euros. Drive: 20 min walk around city
AFTERNOON
BLOIS OLD TOWN AND THE MAISON DE LA MAGIE
Blois is the finest old town in the Loire, a labyrinth of extraordinary medieval and Renaissance streets below the chateau. The Maison de la Magie, dedicated to Robert-Houdin the great magician born in Blois in 1805 who inspired Harry Houdini, puts on extraordinary shows hourly from the facade. The view from the chateau terrace over the Loire and the old town rooftops below is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Foret de Chambord surrounding the chateau is the largest walled forest in Europe, 5,440 hectares enclosed by a 32km wall built by Francois I. Wild boar, deer and extraordinary wildlife roam freely inside. The forest is accessible by marked trails from the chateau. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Blois Coffee and croissant before Chambord opens at 9am. | Lunch: Le Saint-Nicolas, Chambord area Outstanding traditional Loire restaurant. Local game, pike with beurre blanc and Cheverny wine. | Dinner: L'Orangerie du Chateau, Blois One Michelin star in the chateau grounds. Outstanding modern Loire cuisine.
DAY 2
CHENONCEAU AND AMBOISE
MORNING
CHATEAU DE CHENONCEAU, THE CHATEAU OF THE LADIES
Chenonceau is the most visited chateau in France after Versailles, and justifiably so. The extraordinary white Renaissance chateau built on a bridge spanning the Cher river was shaped by the extraordinary women who owned it: Diane de Poitiers who built the bridge, Catherine de Medici who added the gallery above it, and Louise de Lorraine who mourned her husband Henry III here in black for the rest of her life. The extraordinary formal gardens of Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici flank the approach. Entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Amboise
MIDDAY
AMBOISE, WHERE LEONARDO DA VINCI DIED
Amboise is the most important town in the Loire valley. The extraordinary Chateau Royal d'Amboise dominates the town from its cliff above the Loire. Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years here at the invitation of Francois I, living at the Chateau du Clos Luce (now an extraordinary museum) connected to the royal chateau by an underground tunnel. Leonardo died at Clos Luce in 1519. The museum contains extraordinary scale models of his inventions. Entry approx 17 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to troglodytes
AFTERNOON
THE TROGLODYTE CAVES OF THE LOIRE
The Loire Valley cliffs are honeycombed with extraordinary troglodyte dwellings carved into the soft tufa stone, inhabited continuously from prehistoric times to the present day. The Troglodytes du Saut aux Loups near Montsoreau is the finest site, with an extraordinary mushroom cultivation cave and a family troglodyte dwelling open for tours. Entry approx 8 euros. Several troglodyte wine cellars in Vouvray and Montlouis offer extraordinary wine tastings in their cave cellars.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Pagode de Chanteloup near Amboise is an extraordinary 7-storey Chinese pagoda built in 1775 standing alone in a forest, the only remnant of an extraordinary 18th-century estate. The view from the top over the Loire valley is extraordinary. Entry approx 9 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Chenonceaux village Coffee before Chenonceau opens. The queue for entry begins at 9am opening. | Lunch: L'Orangerie de Chenonceau Outstanding restaurant in the chateau grounds. Extraordinary Loire cuisine in a remarkable setting. | Dinner: La Grange, Amboise Outstanding traditional restaurant in Leonardo's town. Local zander, rillettes and Vouvray wine.
DAY 3
VILLANDRY AND CHINON
MORNING
CHATEAU DE VILLANDRY, THE GREATEST RENAISSANCE GARDEN IN FRANCE
The gardens of Villandry are the finest Renaissance gardens in France, entirely reconstructed in the early 20th century from original 16th-century plans. Three levels of extraordinary formal gardens descend from the chateau: the ornamental water garden at the top, the extraordinary love garden of intricate box hedge patterns in the middle, and the extraordinary kitchen garden of perfectly symmetrical vegetable beds in geometric patterns at the bottom. The view from the chateau tower over all three levels is extraordinary. Entry approx 13 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Azay
MIDDAY
CHATEAU D'AZAY-LE-RIDEAU, THE JEWEL OF THE LOIRE
Azay-le-Rideau is the most beautiful small chateau in the Loire, an extraordinary early Renaissance building reflected in the moat of the Indre river that it appears to float upon. Built between 1518 and 1527 by a financial minister of Francois I, the chateau has the finest Renaissance staircase in the Loire and an extraordinary location in an island in the river. Entry approx 12 euros. Book the extraordinary sound and light show in summer. Drive: 30 min drive to Chinon
AFTERNOON
CHINON, THE MEDIEVAL FORTRESS AND THE WINES
Chinon is the most extraordinary medieval town in the Loire, dominated by the extraordinary Forteresse Royale de Chinon on its cliff above the Vienne river, where Joan of Arc first met the Dauphin Charles VII in 1429. The view from the fortress over the extraordinary medieval town below and the vineyards stretching to the horizon is one of the finest in the Loire Valley. Entry approx 10 euros. The Chinon red wine from Cabernet Franc grapes is the finest red wine in the Loire.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Rabelais wine country around Chinon was the birthplace of Francois Rabelais in 1494. The extraordinary Maison de la Riviere at La Deviniere near Chinon, where Rabelais was born, is an extraordinary small museum in an authentic 15th-century farmhouse. Entry approx 6 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Tours Coffee in the finest city in the Loire before driving to Villandry. | Lunch: Chateau de Villandry restaurant Lunch in the garden restaurant. Local asparagus, Loire fish and Vouvray. | Dinner: Les Annees 30, Chinon The most celebrated restaurant in Chinon. Local rillettes, coq au vin and the finest Chinon red.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Blois or Chambord area, Night 1 Hotel de Blois or Chateau de Montpoupon. Approx 90 to 160 euros per night. Amboise, Night 2 Hotel le Choiseul, a beautiful 18th-century hotel on the Loire. Approx 110 to 180 euros per night. Budget Option Blois: Hotel de France from approx 65 euros. Chinon: Hotel Diderot from approx 70 euros.
Top Tips
1. Chambord at 9am opening: the double helix staircase with nobody else on it is extraordinary.
2. Chenonceau is most beautiful in reflection at dusk. Book evening entry or the light show in summer.
3. Vouvray wine tasting in a cave cellar is free at several producers. Ring ahead to Domaine Huet.
4. Loire Valley troglodyte caves are lived in by 2,000 people today. Several are open as gites.
5. Chinon red wine (Cabernet Franc) is the finest undervalued red in France. Buy it from small producers.
6. The Loire by bicycle is extraordinary. Hire a bike in Tours and cycle the Loire a Velo path.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day