Ljubljana
3
Day Itinerary •
Slovenia
Three days in Ljubljana and its surrounds gives you the full extraordinary range of Slovenia's capital city and the remarkable landscapes within an hour of its centre, from the Baroque old town and the hilltop castle to the extraordinary Postojna caves, the marshland of the Ljubljana Moor and the wine country of the Dolenjska hills to the southeast. This route takes in Ljubljana's finest old town, the Triple Bridge and the Ljubljanica riverfront, the castle with its extraordinary views over the Julian Alps, the extraordinary Central Market and Plecnik's architectural masterpieces, a day at Postojna caves and Predjama Castle, and a final day in the Dolenjska wine hills and the extraordinary Bogensperk Castle.
Best Time To Visit
April to October
Getting There
Fly into Ljubljana (LJU), 30 minutes from city centre
Getting Around
Old town on foot; car for day trips
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, mostly walking
DAY 1
LJUBLJANA OLD TOWN
MORNING
LJUBLJANA OLD TOWN, THE MOST LIVEABLE CAPITAL IN EUROPE
Ljubljana is consistently rated among the most liveable and walkable capital cities in Europe, a compact Baroque and Art Nouveau old town clustered below its hilltop castle along the green Ljubljanica river. The Triple Bridge designed by Joze Plecnik in 1932 is the finest urban landmark in the city, three bridges fanning out from the old town across the river. The Central Market colonnade along the river is another Plecnik masterpiece. Walk from the Triple Bridge through the old town lanes to the Dragon Bridge, the finest Art Nouveau bridge in the region, built in 1901. Drive: 20 min walk uphill
MIDDAY
LJUBLJANA CASTLE AND THE CITY PANORAMA
Ljubljana Castle on its 375-metre hill above the old town has extraordinary views over the city, the Ljubljana Moor to the south and the Julian Alps to the northwest. The castle dates from the 12th century and houses the Slovenian History Museum and a remarkable virtual castle tour. The funicular from the old town takes 1 minute and costs 4 euros return, or walk up through the castle lane in 15 minutes. Entry to castle grounds free, virtual tour approx 10 euros. Drive: 30 min walk along river
AFTERNOON
METELKOVA AND THE NATIONAL MUSEUM QUARTER
The National Museum of Slovenia, the National Gallery and the Museum of Modern Art are all within a short walk of each other near Metelkova. The National Museum houses the extraordinary Vace situla, a Celtic bronze bucket from 500 BC decorated with extraordinary relief friezes, considered the finest Celtic metalwork in Central Europe. The Metelkova autonomous cultural centre nearby is a remarkable converted military barracks turned arts complex. Museum entry approx 8 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Tivoli Park immediately west of Ljubljana centre is the largest park in the city and one of the finest urban parks in Central Europe, its extraordinary chestnut allees designed by Plecnik leading to the International Centre of Graphic Arts. The rose garden and the castle hill viewpoint from the park are extraordinary on a clear day. Free to enter, open at all hours.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Macchiato, Ljubljana The finest coffee in Ljubljana on the old town riverfront. Outdoor tables on the Ljubljanica. | Lunch: Covered Market, Ljubljana Fresh local produce, Slovenian cheese, cured meats and bread from the Central Market stalls. | Dinner: Strelec, Ljubljana Castle Extraordinary restaurant inside the castle tower. Local venison, wild mushrooms, Slovenian wine.
DAY 2
POSTOJNA AND PREDJAMA
MORNING
POSTOJNA CAVE, THE GREATEST SHOW CAVE IN EUROPE
Postojna cave is the most visited attraction in Slovenia and one of the finest cave systems in Europe, with 24km of extraordinary passages. The cave railway carries visitors 3.7km into the mountain before the guided walk through stalactite and stalagmite chambers begins. The concert hall chamber seats 10,000 people and has hosted full orchestral performances. The human fish, the extraordinary blind cave salamander olm, lives in the underground streams here and lives for up to 100 years. Entry approx 28 euros, book online. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
PREDJAMA CASTLE, THE CLIFF FACE FORTRESS
Predjama Castle built into the mouth of a 123-metre cliff is the most extraordinary castle in Slovenia. The outlaw knight Erazem Lueger held this fortress against a Habsburg siege for over a year in 1484, supplied through a secret tunnel system in the cliff behind. The castle is remarkably well preserved and the position above the valley is extraordinary from every angle. The cave system behind the castle extends 13km into the karst. Entry approx 16 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
KARST VILLAGES AND THE RETURN TO LJUBLJANA
The drive back from Postojna to Ljubljana passes through the extraordinary karst plateau landscape of grey limestone and ancient oak forests. A stop at the extraordinary Rakov Skocjan natural bridge, where the Rak river disappears into a limestone arch and emerges through another arch 500 metres later, is one of the finest geological curiosities in Slovenia. The drive from Rakov Skocjan to Ljubljana takes 45 minutes. Free to visit.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Notranjska Regional Park between Ljubljana and Postojna contains the extraordinary Lake Cerknica, the largest intermittent lake in Europe, which fills with water in autumn and winter and drains almost completely each spring through sink holes in the limestone floor. The lake at full capacity stretches 26 square kilometres. Free to visit from the road.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Ljubljana Early coffee before the 1-hour drive to Postojna. Bring a warm layer for the cave. | Lunch: Gostilna Proteus, Postojna Local Karst prsut ham, cheese and Teran wine just outside the cave entrance. | Dinner: Restavracija Cubo, Ljubljana One of the finest contemporary restaurants in Ljubljana. Book ahead for the tasting menu.
DAY 3
DOLENJSKA HILLS
MORNING
BOGENSPERK CASTLE AND THE DOLENJSKA HILLS
Bogensperk Castle in the Dolenjska hills 30km southeast of Ljubljana is the finest Renaissance castle in Slovenia, a four-towered 16th-century fortress restored to extraordinary condition. The castle was the home of the extraordinary polymath Johann Weikhard von Valvasor, who published the first comprehensive description of Slovenia in 1689, a 15-volume work that earned him fellowship of the Royal Society in London. The castle museum and the views over the wine hills below are extraordinary. Entry approx 7 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
DOLENJSKA WINE COUNTRY AND CVI n EK WINE
The Dolenjska hills south of Ljubljana produce Cvicek, one of the most distinctive wines in Slovenia, a light, acidic red blend of up to nine grape varieties unique to this region. Several farm wine cellars along the hills above the Krka river offer tastings directly from the producer at extraordinary value. The drive through the Dolenjska wine road passes through an extraordinarily beautiful landscape of vine-covered slopes, medieval churches and oak forests. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
LJUBLJANA MOOR AND THE PILE DWELLINGS
The Ljubljana Moor south of the city is a 163-square-kilometre wetland that was the site of one of the largest prehistoric pile dwelling settlements in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The wooden houses built on platforms above the waterlogged ground between 4000 and 2000 BC are among the most extraordinary prehistoric settlements in Central Europe. The Ig visitor centre and the extraordinary reconstructed pile dwellings give a vivid impression of Bronze Age life. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Church of the Annunciation in Crngro n near Skofja Loka, 30 minutes northwest of Ljubljana, contains the most extraordinary late-Gothic frescoes in Slovenia, painted around 1470 in extraordinary vivid colours. The church is almost entirely unknown to foreign visitors. Entry free, open daily. A short detour on the way back to Ljubljana airport.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Ljubljana Coffee before driving to Dolenjska. Pack a picnic for the wine hills if the weather is fine. | Lunch: Gostilna Lectar, Radovljica Traditional Slovenian cooking in the wine hills. Local lamb and the finest Dolenjska Cvicek. | Dinner: Se Bomo Videli, Ljubljana Outstanding natural wine bar and restaurant in Ljubljana old town. Local produce and great Slovenian wine.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Old Town, all nights Hotel Cubo or Vander Urbani Resort. Approx 100 to 200 euros per night. Mid-range option Hotel Mrak or Hotel Park near the centre. Approx 70 to 120 euros per night. Budget option Hostel Celica in a converted prison near the station. From approx 30 euros.
Top Tips
1. The Ljubljana Central Market on Friday morning is the finest food market in Slovenia. Arrive early for local honey, cheese, mushrooms and Slovenian wine.
2. Ljubljana Castle funicular is 4 euros but the walk up through the old town lanes is free, takes 15 minutes and is far more rewarding.
3. The Metelkova autonomous cultural centre opens after midnight and is the most extraordinary alternative arts venue in the Balkans. Free to enter.
4. Plecnik's covered market colonnade along the Ljubljanica is one of the finest pieces of 20th-century urban architecture in Europe. Free to walk.
5. Book Postojna cave online the day before. The cave is a constant 10 degrees so bring a layer regardless of outside temperature.
6. Hostel Celica in the former prison near the station has extraordinary themed cells converted into guest rooms. Worth seeing even if not staying.
Total Budget
80 to 140 euros/day