LaRioja
5
Day Itinerary •
Spain
La Rioja packs an extraordinary amount into Spain's smallest mainland region. Five days lets you go far beyond the famous wine route and discover the full depth of this overlooked corner of northern Spain. Wine yes, but also medieval monasteries, Roman cities, mountain wilderness, dinosaur fossil sites of world importance and a pilgrimage route that has shaped Spanish culture for a millennium. This route covers everything. Logrono's extraordinary tapas street, the Rioja Alta wine villages and architect-designed bodegas, the birthplace of the Spanish language at San Millan, the wild Sierra de la Demanda mountains and the hidden village of Ezcaray, the Jurassic dinosaur trail of the Rioja Baja, and the extraordinary Roman city of Calahorra that almost nobody visits.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Bilbao (BIO) or Logrono (RJL) or Zaragoza (ZAZ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 115 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LOGRONO
MORNING
LOGRONO OLD TOWN, THE HIDDEN MEDIEVAL CORE
The Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda has two extraordinary Baroque towers. The Camino de Santiago passes through the city via the Calle Rua Vieja, one of the finest medieval streets in northern Spain. The Mercado de San Blas is the finest food market in La Rioja, packed with local produce, peppers, artichokes and Riojan vegetables that define the regional cuisine. Drive: 10 min walk to Calle Laurel
MIDDAY
CALLE LAUREL, THE FINEST TAPAS STREET IN SPAIN
The Calle Laurel and adjacent Calle San Juan contain the highest concentration of extraordinary tapas bars in Spain, almost entirely visited by locals. Bar Soriano serves the finest mushroom pintxo in Spain. Bar El Alambique is famous for its crispy prawn skewer. Walk the entire street and eat at every bar. Drive: 15 min walk to Ebro
AFTERNOON
THE EBRO RIVERSIDE AND CITY PARKS
Walk the Paseo del Espolon, a beautiful 19th-century promenade, to the Puente de Hierro iron bridge. The Parque de la Ribera continues along the river to the extraordinary Logrono Weir, a dramatic cascade entirely unknown to visitors. End at the Parque del Ebro for the finest sunset view over the river.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo de La Rioja in Logrono is one of the finest regional museums in Spain, in an 18th-century baroque palace. Extraordinary Roman, Moorish and medieval collections. Entry completely free and it receives almost no tourists despite being world-class.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Moderno, Logrono Most beloved traditional cafe. Excellent coffee and local pastries on the Calle Portales. | Lunch: Calle Laurel tapas crawl Eat at 6 different bars. Each drink brings a specialist pintxo. The finest affordable lunch in Spain. | Dinner: Restaurante El Cachivache Outstanding modern Riojan restaurant. Local vegetables, lamb chops and the finest Rioja wine list.
DAY 2
RIOJA ALTA WINE COUNTRY
MORNING
HARO, THE CAPITAL OF RIOJA WINE
The wine capital of La Rioja with a beautifully preserved medieval centre. The Barrio de la Estacion contains the greatest concentration of historic wine bodegas in the world, all built around the 19th-century railway station. Many still offer tours and tastings from approx 10 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Gehry winery
MIDDAY
BODEGAS MARQUES DE RISCAL, FRANK GEHRY'S WINE CATHEDRAL
Frank Gehry's spectacular titanium structure floats above the original 1858 bodega in Elciego. Extraordinary even from the outside. Winery tours include the remarkable cellars. Entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 30 min drive to Laguardia
AFTERNOON
LAGUARDIA, THE MEDIEVAL WALLED WINE VILLAGE
The finest walled village in the Rioja wine country, on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards with the Sierra Cantabria behind. An entire network of 16th-century bodegas carved into the rock beneath the village. Several still offer tastings by appointment.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Camino de Santiago passes directly through Rioja wine country between Navarrete and Najera. Walk a section through the vines for the most authentic Riojan experience, with the Sierra de la Demanda mountains on the southern horizon.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Haro old town Excellent cafes in the arcaded old town before the bodegas open. | Lunch: Restaurante Terete, Haro Most celebrated restaurant in Haro. Roast lamb since 1867. Book ahead. | Dinner: Restaurante Amelibia, Laguardia Outstanding restaurant in the walled village. Local lamb and exceptional Rioja wines.
DAY 3
SAN MILLAN AND DINOSAUR TRAIL
MORNING
MONASTERIO DE SAN MILLAN, THE BIRTHPLACE OF SPANISH
In the 10th century, a monk wrote the first known words in the Spanish language in the margins of a Latin text at the Monasterio de Suso. The Romanesque cave church is extraordinary. The Monasterio de Yuso below is one of the finest Renaissance monasteries in Spain. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Entry approx 5 euros, guided visits only. Drive: 15 min drive to Najera
MIDDAY
NAJERA, THE ROYAL PANTHEON OF NAVARRE
The Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real contains the tombs of 30 kings and queens of Navarre and Castile from the 10th to 12th centuries. The Gothic cloister is extraordinary. Entry approx 4 euros and one of the most important medieval sites in Spain. Drive: 30 min drive to dinosaur sites
AFTERNOON
THE DINOSAUR TRAIL OF LA RIOJA BAJA
The Icnitas de Enciso site has hundreds of dinosaur footprints from sauropods, theropods and ornithopods dating 120 million years ago. The Centro Paleontologico de La Rioja in Enciso is an excellent museum. Entry approx 4 euros, outdoor trackway sites are free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
San Millan de Suso tours are limited to small groups. The cave church contains the tomb of San Millan himself who died in 574 AD aged 101, and the original hermit's cell where the monastic tradition that birthed the Spanish language began.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in San Millan village Local cafe before the guided monastery tours begin. | Lunch: Restaurante Los Parrales, Najera Outstanding Riojan restaurant near the monastery. Local lamb and excellent wine. | Dinner: Return to Logrono for dinner Final round of the finest pintxos on Calle Laurel.
DAY 4
SIERRA DE LA DEMANDA
MORNING
SIERRA DE LA DEMANDA, THE WILD MOUNTAIN HEART OF LA RIOJA
The Sierra de la Demanda in the south of La Rioja is one of the most beautiful and least visited mountain ranges in northern Spain. Dense oak and beech forests, medieval hermitages, high mountain lakes and extraordinary views over the Ebro valley and wine country below. The Pico de San Lorenzo at 2,271 metres is the highest point in La Rioja. The walking trails through the beech forests in autumn are among the finest in northern Spain. Drive: 30 min drive to Ezcaray
MIDDAY
EZCARAY, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE IN LA RIOJA
Ezcaray is the finest village in La Rioja, a beautifully preserved stone village in the Oja river valley beneath the Sierra de la Demanda. The village has extraordinary traditional architecture, a beautiful arcaded main square and one of the most celebrated restaurants in northern Spain. The surrounding countryside of orchards, vineyards and mountain streams is extraordinary. The Royal Cloth Factory, a 18th-century textile manufactory established by royal decree, is one of the most unusual industrial heritage sites in Spain. Drive: 20 min drive to Valvanera
AFTERNOON
MONASTERIO DE VALVANERA, THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN SANCTUARY
The Monasterio de Valvanera sits in a deep valley in the heart of the Sierra de la Demanda, surrounded by ancient forests at 930 metres. The monastery was founded in the 10th century around a miraculous image of the Virgin discovered in a hollow oak tree. The approach road winds through extraordinary beech and oak forest for 15km from the main road. Still an active monastery, entry to the church is free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a magnificent Camino de Santiago city with an extraordinary Romanesque cathedral that contains a live rooster and hen in a glass cage inside the building. The birds commemorate a medieval miracle and have been kept in the cathedral for 700 years. Free entry and one of the most surreal sights in all of Spain.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Santo Domingo de la Calzada Stop in this beautiful Camino city before driving into the sierra. | Lunch: Restaurante El Portal del Echaurren, Ezcaray One Michelin star in the village. Outstanding modern Riojan cuisine by Francis Paniego. Book well ahead. | Dinner: Hotel Echaurren restaurant, Ezcaray The traditional restaurant in the same family hotel. Roast lamb, local vegetables and sierra wines.
DAY 5
RIOJA BAJA AND CALAHORRA
MORNING
CALAHORRA, THE ROMAN CITY NOBODY VISITS
Calahorra is one of the most historically significant cities in La Rioja and almost entirely unknown internationally. Founded by the Romans as Calagurris, it was the birthplace of the rhetor Marcus Fabius Quintilianus, author of the Institutio Oratoria, the most important work on education and rhetoric in the ancient world. The cathedral is one of the finest Gothic buildings in La Rioja. The Roman museum and archaeological remains are extraordinary. Entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Arnedo
MIDDAY
ARNEDO, THE CAVE TOWN AND SHOE CAPITAL
Arnedo is one of the most unusual small cities in La Rioja. The town is known as the shoe capital of Spain with over 100 shoe factories in the surrounding area. But the extraordinary hidden gem is the Cuevas de Arnedo, a network of prehistoric and medieval cave dwellings carved into the sandstone cliffs above the town. Many are still inhabited today, with facades, windows and even gardens carved into the living rock. A completely unique inhabited cave city entirely unknown to international visitors. Drive: 25 min drive to wine bodegas
AFTERNOON
RIOJA BAJA WINE TRAIL AND QUEL VILLAGE
The Rioja Baja produces a different style of wine from the Rioja Alta, fuller-bodied reds from the garnacha grape grown on lower altitude soils. The village of Quel is the finest in the Rioja Baja, a beautifully preserved wine village below dramatic sandstone cliffs with an extraordinary 16th-century castle and an ancient cave church carved into the cliff face above the town. End the trip with a tasting at one of the local cooperative bodegas.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Balneario de Arnedillo, 10km from Arnedo, is a natural hot spring spa in a dramatic river gorge, with thermal waters emerging at 52 degrees from the cliff face. The spa has operated since Roman times and is one of the most beautiful natural spa settings in Spain. Day entry from approx 20 euros and an extraordinary way to end a La Rioja visit.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Calahorra old town Several excellent cafes near the cathedral. Breakfast before the Roman museum opens. | Lunch: Restaurante La Taberna de la Cuarta Esquina, Calahorra The finest restaurant in Calahorra. Outstanding Riojan cuisine and exceptional local wine list. | Dinner: Return to Logrono for final dinner One last Calle Laurel pintxo crawl. Order a Rioja Gran Reserva for the final evening.
Where To Stay
Logrono, Nights 1 and 3 Hotel Calle Mayor, boutique hotel in the old town. Approx 90 to 140 euros per night. Laguardia or Ezcaray, Nights 2 and 4 Hotel Castillo El Collado, Laguardia, or Hotel Echaurren, Ezcaray. Approx 110 to 180 euros. Calahorra area, Night 5 Parador de Calahorra or rural hotel in the Rioja Baja. Approx 80 to 130 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Calle Laurel tapas bars open from 1pm and 8pm. Eat standing at the bar and move every 20 minutes.
2. Book Restaurante Terete in Haro well ahead. The roast lamb has been on the menu since
1867.
3. San Millan de Suso tours are limited to small groups. Book in advance at the monastery website.
4. Rioja harvest (vendimia) runs September to October. The finest time to visit by far.
5. Laguardia underground bodegas need appointments. Ask the village tourist office to arrange access.
6. Rioja reserva wines need at least 3 years ageing. Buy crianza from smaller bodegas for best value.
Total Budget
80 to 125 euros/day