Languedoc
5
Day Itinerary •
France
Five days in Languedoc-Roussillon lets you explore the full extraordinary breadth of the ancient south, from the greatest Roman monuments in France at Nimes and the Pont du Gard to the magnificent walled city of Carcassonne, the extraordinary Cathar castles of the Aude gorges, the wild Camargue delta and the finest oysters and wines of the Mediterranean coast. This route covers the complete Languedoc. The extraordinary Roman arena and Maison Carree of Nimes, the Pont du Gard spanning its gorge in perfect Roman precision, the vibrant city of Montpellier, the finest oysters of the Etang de Thau, the pink flamingos of the Camargue, the UNESCO city of Carcassonne and the impossible Cathar castles above the Pyrenean foothills.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly to Montpellier (MPL) or TGV from Paris to Nimes in 3 hours
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 85 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
NIMES AND THE PONT DU GARD
MORNING
NIMES, THE MOST ROMAN CITY IN FRANCE
Nimes is the finest Roman city in France, its extraordinary arena the best-preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world, still hosting 24,000 spectators for bullfights and concerts as it has for 2,000 years. The extraordinary Maison Carree, a perfectly preserved 1st-century BC Roman temple, faces Norman Foster's contemporary art gallery in an extraordinary dialogue across two millennia. The Jardins de la Fontaine with the Temple of Diana are extraordinary. Entry to arena approx 10 euros. Drive: 25 min drive
MIDDAY
PONT DU GARD, THE GREATEST ROMAN MONUMENT IN FRANCE
The Pont du Gard is the most extraordinary Roman monument in France and the finest aqueduct in the world. Three tiers of golden limestone arches span the Gardon gorge with extraordinary precision. Built in the 1st century AD to carry water 50km to Nimes, it stands 49 metres high without a drop of mortar. The site museum is outstanding. Entry approx 9 euros. Arrive at opening to experience it in near-solitude. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
UZES, THE FIRST DUCHY OF FRANCE
Uzes is the most extraordinary small town in Languedoc, its medieval towers rising above a perfectly preserved old town of golden stone. The Duche d'Uzes, the finest intact ducal palace in France, has been continuously inhabited since the 11th century. The extraordinary Saturday market is the finest in the Gard. The animated Place aux Herbes with its cafe terraces is extraordinary. Entry to ducal palace approx 14 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Pont du Gard can be experienced from river level by kayaking the Gardon. Hire a canoe from Collias, 8km upstream, and paddle down to arrive at the aqueduct from the water. The view looking up at 49 metres of Roman masonry from river level is the most extraordinary perspective. Canoe hire approx 14 euros. The finest free experience in all of Languedoc.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on Place de la Maison Carree Coffee facing the finest Roman temple in the world before the arena opens. | Lunch: Le Bouchon et l'Assiette, Nimes Outstanding local gardianne de taureau, brandade de morue and Costieres de Nimes red. | Dinner: La Maison de Nimes Extraordinary creative cuisine in the finest restaurant in the city. Local produce and Languedoc wines.
DAY 2
MONTPELLIER AND THE ETANG DE THAU
MORNING
MONTPELLIER OLD TOWN AND THE PLACE DE LA COMEDIE
Montpellier is the most vibrant city in Languedoc, its extraordinary medieval Ecusson old town a maze of Renaissance hotels particuliers and lively squares. The extraordinary Place de la Comedie, the finest public square in southern France, is lined with cafes and anchored by the three Graces fountain. The Musee Fabre has the finest collection of Flemish and French paintings in southern France. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
BOUZIGUES AND THE ETANG DE THAU OYSTER TABLES
The Etang de Thau is the largest lagoon in France and produces the finest oysters and mussels in the Mediterranean. At Bouzigues the oyster farmers sell their catch directly from wooden tables on the quay with Picpoul de Pinet white wine. The extraordinary view across the lagoon to Sete and the Pyrenees is extraordinary. The finest and most authentic seafood lunch in Languedoc. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
SETE, THE EXTRAORDINARY CANAL PORT OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
Sete is the finest and most authentic port in Languedoc, its extraordinary canals lined with fishing boats and seafood restaurants entirely different from the tourist coast. The extraordinary Mont Saint-Clair above the town gives views over both the Etang de Thau and the open Mediterranean. The fish market at the Grand Canal and the extraordinary jousting tournaments on the canals in summer are unmissable.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Abbaye de Valmagne, 15km from Montpellier, is a perfectly preserved 12th-century Cistercian abbey that has stored wine barrels in its extraordinary Gothic nave since the Revolution. The monks replaced the choir stalls with wine vats. The abbey wine is extraordinary and the setting entirely unique in France. Entry approx 9 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Montpellier old town Coffee in the Ecusson before the streets fill with students and market shoppers. | Lunch: Chez Philippe, Bouzigues Extraordinary oysters, tellines and mussels on the Etang de Thau waterfront. Picpoul de Pinet. | Dinner: La Palangre, Sete Outstanding fresh fish on the Grand Canal. Local tielle seteoise pie, sea bass and local rose.
DAY 3
THE CAMARGUE AND AIGUES-MORTES
MORNING
THE CAMARGUE, WILD HORSES AND PINK FLAMINGOS
The Camargue is the most extraordinary delta landscape in France, its extraordinary lagoons, reed beds and salt marshes home to 400 species of birds including the largest colony of greater flamingos in Europe. The white Camargue horses and black bulls roam freely across the extraordinary flat landscape. The Parc Naturel Regional de Camargue visitor centre at Ginès is the finest introduction. Free to explore by car or bicycle. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
AIGUES-MORTES, THE EXTRAORDINARY WALLED MEDIEVAL PORT
Aigues-Mortes is the most extraordinary walled medieval town in Languedoc, its extraordinary rectangular grid of towers and ramparts rising from the flat Camargue plain exactly as Saint Louis built it in the 13th century as his crusader embarkation port. The Tour de Constance where Huguenots were imprisoned is extraordinary. The extraordinary pink salt pans surrounding the town are stunning in late afternoon light. Entry to ramparts approx 8 euros. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
LA GRANDE MOTTE AND THE HERAULT COASTLINE
The extraordinary futurist resort of La Grande Motte, designed by Jean Balladur in 1967, is the most extraordinary piece of 20th-century urban planning in France, its extraordinary pyramid-shaped apartment towers rising from the flat coast in extraordinary geometric precision. The beaches of the Herault coast stretch for extraordinary kilometres of fine sand. The oyster village of Meze on the Etang de Thau is the finest for a late afternoon walk.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Etang de Vaccarès at the heart of the Camargue is the largest lagoon in France and a Ramsar wetland of international importance. At dawn the flamingo flocks take off in extraordinary pink clouds above the mirror-flat water. The D36b track along the eastern shore is the finest wildlife drive in France. Free. Arrive before sunrise for the most extraordinary experience.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer Coffee in the extraordinary gypsy pilgrimage town before the Camargue drive. | Lunch: Le Bruleur de Loups, Aigues-Mortes Outstanding local gardiane de taureau, tellines and Costieres de Nimes rose inside the walls. | Dinner: Le Grand Bleu, La Grande Motte Extraordinary fresh fish in the futurist pyramid town. Local catch and Languedoc white wine.
DAY 4
BEZIERS AND THE CANAL DU MIDI
MORNING
BEZIERS, THE CATHEDRAL ON THE HILL ABOVE THE ORB
Beziers is the most extraordinary hilltop city in Languedoc, its extraordinary Cathedrale Saint-Nazaire dominating the plain of the Herault from its cliff above the Orb river. The city was the scene of the most extraordinary atrocity of the Albigensian Crusade in 1209 when the entire population was massacred. The view from the cathedral terrace over the vineyards to the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean is extraordinary. Entry free. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
THE NEUF ECLUSES DE FONSERANNES, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY LOCK STAIRCASE IN FRANCE
The Neuf Ecluses de Fonserannes outside Beziers is the most extraordinary engineering feature on the Canal du Midi, a staircase of nine locks carrying boats 21.5 metres up the hill in extraordinary succession. Built by Pierre-Paul Riquet in 1681, it is the finest single engineering achievement on the greatest canal in France. The towpath walk alongside the locks is extraordinary. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
CANAL DU MIDI BY BICYCLE FROM CAPESTANG TO NARBONNE
The Canal du Midi between Capestang and Narbonne passes through the most extraordinary section of the canal, its extraordinary tunnel of plane trees creating a cathedral of green over the water. The extraordinary Oppidum d'Ensérune on its hill above the canal, an ancient settlement of 600BC with extraordinary views, is the finest detour. Hire a bicycle in Beziers or Narbonne for the towpath ride. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Oppidum d'Enserune on its extraordinary hill above the Canal du Midi is one of the finest pre-Roman settlements in France, inhabited continuously from 600BC to 400AD. The view from the summit over the extraordinary radial drainage pattern of the drained Montady lake, unchanged since the 13th century, is one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Languedoc. Entry approx 6 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Beziers old town Coffee below the extraordinary cathedral before climbing to the terrace views. | Lunch: La Maison de Petit Pierre, Beziers One Michelin star in the finest city in the Herault. Extraordinary local produce and Faugeres wine. | Dinner: La Table de Saint Crescent, Narbonne Outstanding in the finest wine capital of Languedoc. Local foie gras and Corbieres grand cru.
DAY 5
CARCASSONNE AND CATHAR COUNTRY
MORNING
CARCASSONNE, THE GREATEST MEDIEVAL FORTRESS IN EUROPE
The Cite of Carcassonne is the most extraordinary medieval walled city in Europe, its double ring of 3km of walls, 52 towers and the Chateau Comtal rising above the Aude valley in extraordinary condition. A UNESCO World Heritage Site restored by Viollet-le-Duc in the 19th century. Enter through the Porte Narbonnaise at 9am opening before the crowds arrive. The view from the Tour du Treseau over the Corbières vineyards is extraordinary. Entry to chateau approx 9 euros. Drive: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
CHATEAU DE PEYREPERTUSE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CATHAR CASTLE
The Chateau de Peyrepertuse is the most extraordinary Cathar castle in Languedoc, its extraordinary ruins clinging to a limestone ridge 800 metres above the Aude gorge, so narrow in places that the walls follow the rock edge. Built in the 11th century and taken by the French crown in 1240 after the Cathar crusade, it is the largest and most dramatic of all the Cathar castles. Entry approx 9 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
QUERIBUS AND THE LAST CATHAR REFUGE
The Chateau de Queribus was the last Cathar castle to fall to the French Inquisition in 1255, thirteen years after the fall of Montsegur. Its extraordinary single keep on an impossibly narrow limestone pinnacle at 728 metres is the most dramatic silhouette in Cathar country. The view from the summit over the Corbières, the plain of Roussillon and the Pyrenees is extraordinary. Entry approx 8 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary village of Minerve, carved into a canyon of the Cesse river 40km north of Carcassonne, is the most extraordinary village in Languedoc, its extraordinary position on a natural rock bridge above two river gorges making it virtually impregnable. The last Cathar stronghold of the Minervois fell here in 1210. The natural tunnels carved by the Cesse through the limestone are extraordinary. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Carcassonne lower town Coffee in the bastide before the walk up to the cite. The lower town bakers are extraordinary. | Lunch: Au Comte Roger, Carcassonne Outstanding cassoulet, the finest in Carcassonne, inside the medieval walls. Local Corbieres red. | Dinner: La Marquiere, Carcassonne Extraordinary Languedoc cuisine in a medieval setting. Local duck, foie gras and Minervois wine.
Where To Stay
Nimes, Night 1 Hotel Imperator or Maison Albar, central Nimes. Approx 100 to 170 euros per night. Montpellier or Aigues-Mortes, Nights 2 to 3 Hotel du Palais Montpellier or Les Arcades Aigues-Mortes. Approx 80 to 150 euros. Carcassonne, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel de la Cite inside the walled city is extraordinary. Approx 150 to 280 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Pont du Gard at dawn before the car parks open is the most extraordinary Roman monument experience in France.
2. Carcassonne inside the walls after 7pm, when day visitors leave, is an extraordinary medieval experience.
3. Oysters at Bouzigues on the Etang de Thau with a glass of Picpoul de Pinet are extraordinary and cheap.
4. The Camargue at dawn for flamingos and white horses in the mist is among the finest wildlife moments in France.
5. Cathar castles at Peyrepertuse and Queribus are extraordinary. Visit both in one day from Carcassonne.
6. Canal du Midi by bicycle from Carcassonne to Homps is 50km of extraordinary plane-tree-shaded towpath.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day