LakeComo
3
Day Itinerary •
Italy
Lombardy is the most visited region in Italy and the most under-explored. Most visitors see Milan's Duomo and Bellagio's waterfront and consider the job done. But the hidden Lombardy is extraordinary: medieval hilltop cities, silk weaving villages on the lake shores, Renaissance frescoes in forgotten churches, and a lake landscape so perfect it inspired the idea of paradise. This 3-day route goes far beyond the tourist surface. Lake Como's hidden villages and clifftop paths far from the celebrity waterfront. Milan's overlooked Leonardo da Vinci masterpieces and the extraordinary neighbourhood of the Navigli canals. And the medieval upper city of Bergamo, one of the finest walled cities in Italy, visited by far fewer people than it deserves.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Milan Malpensa (MXP) or Milan Linate (LIN)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 100 to 170 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
LAKE COMO HIDDEN GEMS
MORNING
VARENNA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE ON LAKE COMO
While Bellagio receives most of the Lake Como visitors, Varenna on the eastern shore is equally beautiful and receives far fewer tourists. The village of coloured houses cascading to the water has a lakefront promenade, the Passeggiata degli Innamorati (Lovers' Walk), that runs along the water below the buildings accessible only on foot. The Villa Monastero has extraordinary terraced gardens along the lakefront. Arrive by the first ferry from Como or Lecco for the empty morning. Drive: 30 min ferry to hidden villages
MIDDAY
THE HIDDEN SILK VILLAGES OF LAKE COMO
The western shore of Lake Como was the centre of the Italian silk industry for 500 years and the silk weaving towns of Moltrasio, Brienno and Argegno are almost entirely unvisited despite being extraordinary. Moltrasio has a beautifully preserved medieval centre and extraordinary views of the lake from its hillside position. The tiny village of Brienno is accessible only by a single road and has barely changed in centuries. Both are best reached by ferry. Drive: 30 min ferry or drive to Tremezzina
AFTERNOON
VILLA DEL BALBIANELLO AND THE SECRET GARDEN
The Villa del Balbianello on its own promontory at Lenno is the most extraordinary villa on Lake Como. The gardens designed by Cardinal Durini in the 18th century are extraordinary, with loggias, terraces and stone staircases descending to the water. Used as a filming location for Star Wars Episode II and Casino Royale. Entry approx 10 euros, accessible by boat from Lenno or a 20-minute walk through the woods. Book the boat ahead in summer.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The Greenway del Lago di Como is a 10km walking path along the western shore connecting Colonno to Cadenabbia, passing through ancient villages, below the Villa del Balbianello and through extraordinary lakeshore gardens. The finest walk on Lake Como and almost entirely visited only by locals. Free and extraordinarily beautiful.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe del Molo, Varenna The finest cafe in Varenna, on the lakefront. Strong espresso and local pastries watching the morning ferries. | Lunch: Ristorante Il Cavatappi, Varenna Outstanding traditional restaurant in Varenna. Lake perch, local risotto and excellent Valtellina wine. | Dinner: Ristorante La Terrazza, Tremezzina Extraordinary lakefront restaurant with views of the Bellagio promontory at sunset. Local fish and fine wines.
DAY 2
MILAN BEYOND THE DUOMO
MORNING
THE LAST SUPPER AND THE HIDDEN LEONARDO
Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper in the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie is one of the most important paintings in the world, but visits are limited to 15 minutes in groups of 30. Book months in advance. But while in the area, the nearby church of Sant'Ambrogio is one of the finest Romanesque churches in Italy. The Leonardo da Vinci National Science Museum contains the largest collection of Leonardo's machines anywhere, including his extraordinary engineering designs. Entry approx 10 euros. Drive: 20 min metro to Navigli
MIDDAY
NAVIGLI, THE CANAL DISTRICT NOBODY EXPECTS
The Navigli district is Milan's most atmospheric neighbourhood, centred on two ancient canals that once connected the city to the Po river. Leonardo da Vinci designed some of the canal locks. The Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese are lined with extraordinary restaurants, bars and artisan workshops. The Sunday antique market is the finest in Milan. Walk the towpaths, find the hidden courtyards behind the canal-side buildings. Drive: 20 min metro to Brera
AFTERNOON
BRERA AND THE HIDDEN COURTYARDS OF MILAN
The Brera district is Milan's most extraordinary neighbourhood for hidden architecture. The Via Fiori Chiari and Via Madonnina contain dozens of medieval and Renaissance courtyards concealed behind palazzo facades. The Pinacoteca di Brera contains the finest collection of northern Italian painting in the world, including Raphael's Marriage of the Virgin and Mantegna's extraordinary Dead Christ. Entry approx 15 euros.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The Cenacolo Vinciano (Last Supper) tickets sell out months in advance. Book at cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.com as soon as dates open. If tickets are unavailable, the exterior of Santa Maria delle Grazie is extraordinary and the nearby Sant'Ambrogio basilica with its extraordinary 12th-century golden altar is free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Luini, Milan The most beloved traditional bakery in Milan since 1888. The luini (fried dough pastry with various fillings) are extraordinary. | Lunch: Trattoria del Nuovo Macello, Milan The finest traditional trattoria in Milan. Classic Milanese cuisine, ossobuco and risotto alla Milanese. Book ahead. | Dinner: Ripa di Porta Ticinese, Navigli The most beautiful restaurant in the Navigli, on the canal towpath. Outstanding Lombard cuisine and local wine.
DAY 3
BERGAMO ALTA
MORNING
BERGAMO ALTA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WALLED CITY IN NORTHERN ITALY
Bergamo Alta is one of the finest medieval walled cities in Italy and one of the most overlooked. The Venetian walls encircling the upper city are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, built between 1561 and 1588. The Piazza Vecchia is one of the finest medieval piazzas in Italy, anchored by the extraordinary 12th-century Torre del Comune and the beautiful Palazzo della Ragione. The adjacent Piazza del Duomo contains the extraordinary Cappella Colleoni, the finest example of the Lombard Renaissance in existence. Drive: 10 min walk around upper city
MIDDAY
CAPPELLA COLLEONI AND THE HIDDEN UPPER CITY
The Cappella Colleoni was built by the Venetian mercenary captain Bartolomeo Colleoni in 1472 and decorated with extraordinary polychrome marble facades. The interior contains the extraordinary equestrian monument to Colleoni and frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo. Free to enter and extraordinarily beautiful. Walk the via Gombito, the main medieval street of the upper city, to find the extraordinary hidden layers of Bergamo beneath the surface. Drive: 10 min funicular to lower city
AFTERNOON
ACCADEMIA CARRARA, ONE OF ITALY'S FINEST HIDDEN ART MUSEUMS
The Accademia Carrara in Bergamo's lower city is one of the finest and least visited art museums in Italy. The collection was assembled by Count Giacomo Carrara in the 18th century and contains major works by Raphael, Botticelli, Mantegna, Bellini, Titian and Lotto. The Lorenzo Lotto collection is the finest anywhere in the world. Entry approx 10 euros and almost never crowded despite containing masterpieces.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The funicular from Bergamo's lower city to the upper city runs every 12 minutes and costs approx 1.40 euros each way. A second funicular continues from the upper city to the hilltop fortress of San Vigilio, with the finest panoramic view over Bergamo, the Po valley and on clear days the Alps stretching to the horizon. Free to walk the fortress walls.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caffe del Tasso, Bergamo Alta The oldest cafe in Bergamo, on the Piazza Vecchia since 1476. Coffee under the medieval tower. | Lunch: Ristorante Colleoni, Bergamo Alta The finest restaurant in the upper city, overlooking the Cappella Colleoni. Exceptional Lombard cuisine. | Dinner: Trattoria Ol Giopi e la Margì Most beloved trattoria in Bergamo. Casoncelli (local filled pasta), polenta and the finest local wines.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Varenna, Night 1 Hotel Royal Victoria, a 19th-century lakefront hotel with extraordinary views. Approx 150 to 250 euros per night. Milan, Night 2 Hotel Senato, boutique hotel near the Brera district. Approx 130 to 200 euros per night. Budget Option Lake Como: Albergo Olivedo, Varenna from approx 90 euros. Milan: Hotel Ariston from approx 80 euros.
Top Tips
1. Book the Last Supper months in advance at cenacolovinciano.vivaticket.com. It sells out extremely fast.
2. Lake Como ferries are the best way to travel. A day pass covers all stops and costs approx 15 euros.
3. Varenna is far quieter than Bellagio. Take the first morning ferry for the lake completely to yourself.
4. The Villa del Balbianello boat from Lenno must be booked in advance in summer as it sells out.
5. Bergamo Alta funicular runs until midnight. Visit the upper city at dusk for the finest light.
6. Risotto alla Milanese with saffron and bone marrow is Milan's greatest dish. Order it at Trattoria del Nuovo Macello.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day