Kazbegi Military
3
Day Itinerary •
Georgia
Three days in Kazbegi and the Georgian Military Highway takes you along one of the finest mountain roads in the world, from the extraordinary Gudauri ski resort above the Caucasus treeline to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church on its extraordinary hill above Stepantsminda with the snow-capped Mount Kazbek behind, the finest mountain image in Georgia. This route follows the full Georgian Military Highway from Tbilisi to the Russian border. The extraordinary Ananuri fortress reflected in the Zhinvali reservoir, the Gudauri viewpoint over the Aragvi gorge, Stepantsminda and the hike to the extraordinary Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170 metres with Mount Kazbek at 5,047 metres directly above, and the finest mountain food in Georgia throughout.
Best Time To Visit
June to October
Getting There
Drive 3 hours north of Tbilisi on Military Highway
Getting Around
Rental car or shared marshrutka from Tbilisi
Budget Per Day
Approx 35 to 65 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate; Gergeti hike is steep
DAY 1
MILITARY HIGHWAY DRIVE
MORNING
ANANURI FORTRESS, THE FINEST CASTLE ON THE MILITARY HIGHWAY
The Ananuri fortress complex on the Zhinvali reservoir is the finest medieval castle on the Georgian Military Highway, an extraordinary 17th-century fortification of two churches and defensive towers reflected in the turquoise water of the reservoir below. The Church of the Assumption inside the fortress has extraordinary carved stone facades. The view from the upper tower over the reservoir and the Aragvi gorge is extraordinary. The fortress was the scene of the last major internal war in Georgian history in 1739. Entry free. Drive: 45 min drive north
MIDDAY
GUDAURI VIEWPOINT, THE PASS OF THE CAUCASUS
The Gudauri pass at 2,196 metres on the Georgian Military Highway gives the finest panoramic view on the entire road, a 360-degree panorama over the Caucasus range on both sides of the watershed. The famous Soviet-era semicircular mural at the pass celebrates the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk that placed Georgia under Russian protection. The viewpoint over the extraordinary Aragvi gorge from the pass is the finest on the Military Highway. Free. Drive: 1 hour drive north
AFTERNOON
STEPANTSMINDA AND FIRST VIEW OF MOUNT KAZBEK
Stepantsminda, known as Kazbegi, is the finest mountain town in Georgia, a compact settlement in the extraordinary Terek river valley with Mount Kazbek at 5,047 metres directly above and the Gergeti Trinity Church visible on its extraordinary hill. The town has excellent guesthouses, the finest khinkali dumplings in Georgia and a remarkable mountain atmosphere. The evening light on Kazbek from the town is extraordinary.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zhinvali dam hydroelectric station below Ananuri is one of the largest in Georgia and the reservoir it created submerged several medieval villages. On clear low-water days, the rooftops and towers of the submerged village of Zhinvali are visible beneath the extraordinary turquoise water. The effect is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Tbilisi Early coffee before the Military Highway drive. The road north is extraordinary from the first hour. | Lunch: Restaurant near Ananuri Georgian food by the turquoise reservoir after the fortress. Fresh bread and Mtkvari river trout. | Dinner: Guesthouse in Stepantsminda Mountain lamb, potato bread and local beer with the extraordinary Kazbek view.
DAY 2
GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH
MORNING
HIKE TO GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH, THE FINEST VIEW IN GEORGIA
The hike from Stepantsminda to the Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170 metres is the finest short hike in Georgia, a 2-hour ascent through meadows and forest to the extraordinary 14th-century church on its extraordinary hilltop with Mount Kazbek directly above. The church was used to hide the treasures of the Mtskheta Cathedral during Timurid invasions. The view from the church over the Terek valley and the Caucasus range in every direction is the finest mountain panorama in Georgia. Entry free. Drive: 2 hour descent
MIDDAY
GERGETI VILLAGE AND MOUNTAIN LIFE
The village of Gergeti below the Trinity Church is a traditional Caucasian mountain settlement with stone tower houses and extraordinary hospitality. The villagers have guided hikers to the church for generations and the tradition of mountain hospitality is extraordinary. The local guesthouse owners often bring fresh churchkhela and local cheese to hikers on the trail. The afternoon descent from the church gives different extraordinary views of Kazbek in the changing light. Drive: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
DARIALI GORGE AND THE RUSSIAN BORDER ROAD
The Dariali Gorge north of Stepantsminda is the most extraordinary natural feature on the Georgian Military Highway, a sheer-walled canyon carved by the Terek river through the Caucasus that narrows to just a few hundred metres between vertical rock walls. The road follows the river through the gorge to the Russian border at Lars. The Georgian fortress ruins in the gorge are extraordinary. The drive to the border and back takes 45 minutes.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Betlemi cave monastery cut into the cliff face above the Gergeti Trinity Church is one of the most extraordinary and inaccessible monasteries in the Caucasus. The cave complex at 3,000 metres was used to store the most sacred relics of the Georgian church. Experienced climbers can access it with a local guide. Extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Stepantsminda Early mountain breakfast before the Gergeti hike. Bring water and snacks for the ascent. | Lunch: Picnic at Gergeti Church Pack food for the summit. Eating with the extraordinary Kazbek view is unforgettable. | Dinner: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi The finest restaurant in Stepantsminda. Mountain lamb and local Georgian wine with Kazbek at sunset.
DAY 3
UPPER TRUSO VALLEY
MORNING
UPPER TRUSO VALLEY, TRAVERTINE TERRACES AND MINERAL SPRINGS
The Upper Truso valley west of Stepantsminda is one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Georgia, a volcanic valley of extraordinary travertine terraces, bright orange mineral springs and the ruins of the medieval Zakagori fortress reflected in mineral pools. The drive from Stepantsminda takes 30 minutes on a rough road. The Ossetian village of Ketrisi at the end of the valley has extraordinary traditional stone tower houses and the valley beyond leads to the Russian border. Free. Drive: 30 min drive back
MIDDAY
STEPANTSMINDA FINAL MORNING AND GVELETI WATERFALL
The Gveleti waterfalls above the Dariali Gorge are the finest accessible waterfalls near Stepantsminda, two extraordinary cascades in a side valley off the Military Highway reached by a 20-minute walk from the road. The lower fall drops 25 metres into an extraordinary pool and the upper fall above is reached in a further 15 minutes. The extraordinary combination of waterfall, gorge and Caucasus peaks above is the finest natural scene near Kazbegi. Free. Drive: 2.5 hour drive back
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO TBILISI VIA THE MILITARY HIGHWAY
The drive south from Stepantsminda on the Military Highway is the finest mountain road return in Georgia, the extraordinary landscape of the Caucasus unfolding in reverse as the road descends from the high peaks through the Gudauri pass and the Aragvi gorge back to Tbilisi. A final stop at the Zhinvali reservoir for one last view of the extraordinary Ananuri fortress gives a fine conclusion to one of the finest mountain road journeys in the world.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Juta valley above Stepantsminda accessible by rough road gives the finest close-up view of the Greater Caucasus range in Georgia, the extraordinary peaks of Chaukhi and Kazbek rising directly above the valley meadows. The traditional Caucasian tower village at Juta is one of the finest in the region. Free, accessible by 4WD.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Stepantsminda Final mountain breakfast before the Truso valley drive. | Lunch: Cafe near Gveleti Simple Georgian food after the waterfall walk. Local bread and cheese. | Dinner: Restaurant in Tbilisi Return dinner in the capital. The extraordinary Kazbegi mountain lamb will be missed.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Stepantsminda, Nights 1-2 Rooms Hotel Kazbegi or guesthouses. Approx 30 to 120 USD per night. Budget option Family guesthouses in town from approx 20 USD. Include breakfast. Gudauri, Night 1 option Ski resort hotels at the pass for an extraordinary snowfield view.
Top Tips
1. The Gergeti Trinity Church hike is non-negotiable. Start before 8am to have the church to yourself. The view of Mount Kazbek from the church is the finest in Georgia.
2. Book Rooms Hotel Kazbegi for sunset drinks if budget allows. The terrace view of Kazbek and Gergeti church at sunset costs 8 USD for a beer and is extraordinary.
3. The Georgian Military Highway was built by Russia in the 18th century to control the Caucasus. The history of every village passed on the drive is extraordinary.
4. Khinkali in Stepantsminda are the finest in Georgia. The mountain version uses lamb and herbs rather than pork. Order 10 and eat them correctly: drunk first, then bitten.
5. Mount Kazbek is a technically demanding climb but the approach to base camp at Betlemi hut is accessible to fit hikers. Ask local guides in Stepantsminda.
6. The Dariali Gorge narrows to extraordinary proportions. Park the car and walk into the gorge for 20 minutes. The scale of the vertical walls and the Terek river is extraordinary.
Total Budget
35 to 65 USD/day