Jalisco
5
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Five days in Jalisco and Puerto Vallarta gives you the full extraordinary range of Mexico's finest Pacific state. From the cobblestone Romantic Zone and hidden jungle beaches of Puerto Vallarta to the agave fields of Tequila, the extraordinary Lake Chapala highland villages, the cloud forest of Mazamitla and the untouched lagoon coast of Barra de Navidad. This route covers everything that makes Jalisco the most culturally and naturally diverse state on the Pacific coast. The birthplace of mariachi in Guadalajara, the artisan quarter of Tlaquepaque, the Riviera Nayarit surf villages, the highland lake of Chapala and the extraordinary hidden Jalisco coast south of Puerto Vallarta all in five days of extraordinary Pacific Mexico.
Best Time To Visit
November to April
Getting There
Fly into Puerto Vallarta (PVR), served internationally
Getting Around
Panga boats, ETN bus, hired car for highlands
Budget Per Day
Approx 55 to 265 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, beaches and highland day trips
DAY 1
PUERTO VALLARTA
MORNING
PUERTO VALLARTA OLD TOWN AND THE MALECON SCULPTURE WALK
Puerto Vallarta's Zona Romantica and Malecon are the finest coastal promenade in Mexico, its extraordinary cobblestone streets of white-washed buildings with red-tiled roofs rising up the Sierra Madre jungle above Banderas Bay. The Malecon sculpture walk along the seafront contains extraordinary permanent bronze installations. The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe with its distinctive crown tower is the finest on the Pacific coast. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 20 min by panga boat
MIDDAY
LAS CALETAS AND THE HIDDEN BEACH, ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY BOAT
Las Caletas is the most extraordinary hidden beach on the Puerto Vallarta coast, a private jungle cove accessible only by panga boat through the extraordinary Banderas Bay. The former home of director John Huston who filmed Night of the Iguana here, its extraordinary jungle setting, coral reef snorkelling and natural freshwater pools make it the finest day trip from Puerto Vallarta. Tours from Los Muertos pier approx 1,200 pesos. Drive/Travel: 45 min boat back
AFTERNOON
THE PUERTO VALLARTA ART WALK AND THE GALLERIES OF THE ROMANTIC ZONE
The Puerto Vallarta Art Walk on Wednesday and Saturday evenings from October to May is the finest gallery event in Pacific Mexico, opening 20 galleries simultaneously in the Romantic Zone for free wine and extraordinary art. The Galeria Pacifico and Galeria Dante contain the finest collections of Mexican contemporary art on the Pacific coast. The rooftop restaurants above the Romantic Zone at sunset are extraordinary. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zona Romantica neighbourhood of Puerto Vallarta at 6am, before the tourists arrive, is one of the most extraordinary urban dawn experiences in Mexico. The cobblestone streets, the church bells, the jungle birds calling from the mountains above and the extraordinary light over Banderas Bay create an atmosphere entirely unlike the tourist-facing version of the city. The fish market at the Rio Cuale at this hour is extraordinary. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe de Olla, Romantic Zone Outstanding Mexican breakfast in the finest neighbourhood cafe. Extraordinary chilaquiles and local coffee. | Lunch: La Palapa, Los Muertos beach The finest beachfront restaurant in Puerto Vallarta. Outstanding Pacific seafood and ceviches. | Dinner: Tintoque, Romantic Zone The finest tasting menu in Puerto Vallarta. Outstanding local ingredients. Book ahead.
DAY 2
GUADALAJARA AND TEQUILA
MORNING
GUADALAJARA, THE BIRTHPLACE OF MARIACHI AND TEQUILA
Guadalajara is the second largest city in Mexico and the cultural capital of the west, birthplace of mariachi music, tequila and the Mexican hat dance. The extraordinary Cathedral of Guadalajara with its distinctive twin yellow towers, the Hospicio Cabanas UNESCO site with its extraordinary Orozco murals in the dome and the magnificent Mercado San Juan de Dios are all essential. Entry to murals approx 100 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
TLAQUEPAQUE, THE FINEST ARTISAN VILLAGE IN MEXICO
Tlaquepaque is the finest artisan shopping village in Mexico, its pedestrianised El Parian square surrounded by galleries and workshops selling the finest Talavera pottery, blown glass, furniture and textiles in the country. The extraordinary Museo Regional de la Ceramica documents the ceramic tradition unique to Jalisco. The live mariachi in El Parian from noon onwards is extraordinary. Entry to museum free. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
TEQUILA, THE TOWN AND THE AGAVE DISTILLERIES
The town of Tequila 60km from Guadalajara is the origin and spiritual home of Mexico's national spirit, its landscape of blue agave fields a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Jose Cuervo, Herradura and Patron distilleries all offer extraordinary tours of the roasting, crushing and distilling process. The extraordinary Tequila Express train from Guadalajara is the finest way to arrive. Tours approx 800 pesos including tastings.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Barranca de Huentitan canyon on the north edge of Guadalajara is one of the most extraordinary and least known natural sites in western Mexico, a 600-metre deep gorge carved by the Rio Grande de Santiago through the city's own suburbs. The extraordinary viewpoint from the Mirador Independencia gives a remarkable perspective on both the canyon and the distant volcanos. The trail to the canyon floor takes 2 hours through extraordinary vegetation. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Mercado Corona, Guadalajara Outstanding tortas ahogadas, the iconic Guadalajara dish of bread drowned in chile sauce, from the finest market. | Lunch: La Fonda de San Miguel, Guadalajara Outstanding traditional Jalisco cuisine in a beautiful colonial courtyard. Extraordinary birria. | Dinner: La Tequilera, Tequila town The finest dinner in the agave capital. Outstanding local food and the extraordinary tequila library.
DAY 3
RIVIERA NAYARIT
MORNING
SAYULITA, THE FINEST SURF VILLAGE ON THE RIVIERA NAYARIT
Sayulita is the most extraordinary surf and bohemian beach village in Mexico, its coloured facades, artisan market and consistent beach break drawing surfers, artists and travellers from across the world. The extraordinary Playa de los Muertos cove just north of town, accessible only by walking the headland trail, is the finest hidden beach on the Riviera Nayarit. Surfboard rental approx 200 pesos per hour. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN PANCHO AND THE EXTRAORDINARY HIDDEN COAST VILLAGES
San Francisco, known as San Pancho, is the finest and most tranquil village on the Riviera Nayarit, its extraordinary main beach, independent restaurants and the extraordinary Entreamigos community arts centre making it the finest alternative to the better-known Sayulita 5km south. The extraordinary headland walk between the two villages passes extraordinary rock formations and hidden coves. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
PUNTA MITA AND THE MARIETAS ISLANDS HIDDEN BEACH
The Marietas Islands nature reserve 35km offshore from Punta Mita contains the most extraordinary hidden beach in Mexico, Playa Escondida, accessible only by swimming through an underwater tunnel into a circular bay enclosed entirely by rock walls open to the sky. Permits are required and strictly limited to preserve the extraordinary site. Tour from Punta Mita approx 1,500 pesos. Entry permit required.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Playa Escondida permit system for the Marietas Islands is limited to 116 visitors per day total. Book through the Conanp office in Puerto Vallarta at least one week ahead. The extraordinary experience of swimming through the dark underwater tunnel and emerging into the hidden circular beach entirely enclosed by rock is unlike anything else in Mexico. The island seabirds including blue-footed boobies nesting on the cliffs are extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Don Pedro's, Sayulita The finest breakfast in Sayulita. Outstanding huevos rancheros and fresh tropical fruit on the beach terrace. | Lunch: El Itacate, San Pancho Outstanding local Mexican food in the finest village on the Riviera Nayarit. Extraordinary fish tacos. | Dinner: La Sirena Gorda, Puerto Vallarta Return to the Romantic Zone for the finest seafood tacos on the Pacific coast.
DAY 4
JALISCO HIGHLANDS
MORNING
MAZAMITLA AND THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES OF THE JALISCO HIGHLANDS
Mazamitla in the Los Volcanes mountain range is the most extraordinary and least visited highland village in Jalisco, its extraordinary cobblestone streets, log cabin architecture and cloud forest setting at 2,200 metres creating an atmosphere entirely unlike the Pacific coast. The extraordinary Bosque de la Primavera reserve surrounding the village has the finest pine forest walking in Jalisco. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
MIDDAY
LAKE CHAPALA AND THE LARGEST LAKE IN MEXICO
Lake Chapala is the largest lake in Mexico, a 1,100 square kilometre freshwater lake in the Jalisco highlands that has attracted an extraordinary community of Mexican and foreign artists and retirees to its shores. The extraordinary village of Ajijic on the north shore, with its cobblestone streets, galleries and the finest climate in Mexico, is the most beautiful lakeside town in the country. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
TAPALPA, THE WHITE VILLAGE OF THE JALISCO HIGHLANDS
Tapalpa is the most extraordinary white-washed village in the Jalisco highlands, its entirely white and red colonial architecture on a hilltop above pine forests giving views over extraordinary valleys. The Piedrotas rock formations 3km from the village are among the most extraordinary volcanic formations in western Mexico, massive basalt columns rising from the forest floor. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Bosque de la Primavera reserve west of Guadalajara contains the most extraordinary hot spring system in Jalisco, a series of natural thermal pools in a pine and oak forest reserve that few visitors to Puerto Vallarta ever reach. The extraordinary Rio Caliente spa resort within the reserve has been operating since 1913. Day entry to the springs approx 150 pesos. The forest walk between the pools is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Ajijic market Extraordinary local Jalisco breakfast at the lakeside village market. Outstanding gorditas and atole. | Lunch: La Nueva Posada, Ajijic Outstanding traditional Jalisco cuisine with extraordinary Lake Chapala views. | Dinner: Tapalpa restaurant Simple excellent highland food in the finest white village in Jalisco. Outstanding carnitas.
DAY 5
HIDDEN JALISCO COAST
MORNING
BARRA DE NAVIDAD AND THE HIDDEN LAGOON COAST
Barra de Navidad is the most extraordinary and least touristy beach town on the Jalisco coast, a narrow sandbar between the Pacific Ocean and the extraordinary Navidad lagoon, its coloured buildings and fishing boats creating the finest traditional Mexican coastal atmosphere in the state. The lagoon tour by panga passes extraordinary mangroves and opens into the Bahia de Navidad where the Grand Bay Hotel's marina sits on a private island. Panga tour approx 150 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
MELAQUE AND THE MOST BEAUTIFUL UNDEVELOPED BAY IN JALISCO
The Bay of Melaque adjacent to Barra de Navidad is the finest and most undeveloped large bay on the Jalisco coast, a 3km curve of golden sand with a small fishing village at one end and extraordinary Pacific waves for bodyboarding. The extraordinary viewpoint above the southern headland gives one of the finest coastal panoramas in western Mexico. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive north
AFTERNOON
CHAMELA BAY AND THE MARINE TURTLE NESTING BEACHES
The Chamela-Cuixmala biosphere reserve 100km south of Puerto Vallarta protects the finest dry tropical forest and marine turtle nesting beaches on the Jalisco coast. The extraordinary Playa Chamela, one of the least visited long beaches in Mexico, has exceptional Pacific surf and the finest undisturbed turtle nesting from July to November. The biosphere visitor centre and guided beach walks are extraordinary. Entry approx 50 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Yelapa village south of Puerto Vallarta, accessible only by water taxi from Los Muertos pier (45 minutes, approx 200 pesos return), is the most extraordinary hidden coastal community on the Puerto Vallarta bay, a car-free village of extraordinary palapa restaurants, waterfalls and jungle walks completely inaccessible by road. The pie ladies of Yelapa, who walk the beach selling extraordinary homemade pies, are legendary in Puerto Vallarta. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Barra de Navidad waterfront Fresh fish tacos and extraordinary aguachile from the morning market stalls on the beach promenade. | Lunch: Restaurant Veleros, Barra The finest seafood restaurant on the hidden Jalisco coast. Outstanding fresh tuna and local shrimp. | Dinner: Puerto Vallarta return dinner Return for a final extraordinary dinner at Tintoque or La Palapa on the Romantic Zone beachfront.
Where To Stay
Puerto Vallarta, Nights 1 and 3 Zona Romantica. Hotel Escondido or Casa Cupula. Approx 80 to 250 USD. Ajijic or Chapala, Night 4 La Nueva Posada, Ajijic. Approx 60 to 120 USD. Finest lake views in Mexico. Barra de Navidad, Night 5 Hotel Barra de Navidad or Sands Hotel. Approx 40 to 100 USD.
Top Tips
1. Marietas hidden beach: 116 permits per day total. Book one week ahead. Absolutely worth the effort.
2. Lake Chapala and Ajijic: the finest climate in Mexico. The lakeside promenade at sunset is extraordinary.
3. Barra de Navidad: completely car-free in the old town. Arrive by bus and explore entirely on foot.
4. Mazamitla cloud forest: bring a jacket. The highland village is cold at night even in summer.
5. Guadalajara birria: the finest in Mexico is at La Chata on Corona Street. Order it with consomme.
6. Whale watching in Banderas Bay: humpbacks December to March. Book through Ocean Friendly Whale Watch.
Total Budget
55 to 260 USD/day