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Guanajuato

3

Day Itinerary •

Mexico

Three days in Guanajuato and the Bajio reveal the most extraordinarily beautiful colonial region in Mexico. The coloured labyrinth of Guanajuato built on silver wealth, the neo-Gothic spires of San Miguel de Allende, the birthplace of Mexican Independence at Dolores Hidalgo, the pink stone baroque of Queretaro and the extraordinary granite monolith of Bernal are all within a single road trip through the highlands of central Mexico. This route covers the finest of the Mexican Silver Route from the underground tunnel city of Guanajuato to the internationally celebrated colonial streets of San Miguel, the UNESCO baroque of Queretaro and the extraordinary Peña de Bernal monolith. Three days that reveal why the Bajio is the most historically and architecturally significant region in Mexico outside the capital.

Best Time To Visit

October to May

Getting There

Fly into Leon (BJX) or Queretaro (QRO), 1 hour from Mexico City

Getting Around

ETN bus between cities, walking in Guanajuato

Budget Per Day

Approx 45 to 230 USD per person per day

Difficulity

Easy, walking and day trips

DAY 1

GUANAJUATO CITY

MORNING

GUANAJUATO CITY, THE MOST COLOURFUL CITY IN MEXICO

Guanajuato is the most extraordinary colonial city in Mexico, its entire historic centre a UNESCO World Heritage labyrinth of coloured facades, callejones and plazas built on silver mining wealth. The city spreads across a narrow valley with no grid system, its streets connecting through extraordinary tunnels that run beneath the entire city. The Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato with its Valencian image is the finest in the Bajio. Entry to basilica free. Drive/Travel: 15 min walk

MIDDAY

THE ALHONDIGA DE GRANADITAS AND THE INDEPENDENCE MUSEUM

The Alhondiga de Granaditas is the most historically significant building in Guanajuato, the granary stormed by Hidalgo's forces in 1810 in the first major battle of Mexican Independence. The hooks from which the heads of the four Independence leaders were hung still protrude from the four corners. The extraordinary museum inside traces the complete history of Mexican Independence with remarkable artefacts. Entry approx 75 pesos. Drive/Travel: 10 min walk

AFTERNOON

THE CALLEJÓN DEL BESO AND THE EVENING ESTUDIANTINAS

The Callejón del Beso, the narrowest alley in Guanajuato where balconies are just 68cm apart, is the most romantic spot in Mexico according to local legend. The extraordinary estudiantina student music groups, dressed in Renaissance costume, perform and parade through the callejones from 8pm. The rooftop view over the multicoloured city from El Pipila monument at sunset is extraordinary. Entry free.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Diego Rivera Museum occupies the house where Rivera was born in 1886, a beautifully restored colonial townhouse containing extraordinary early works by the muralist. The birthplace of the artist who painted the National Palace murals is rarely on tourist itineraries despite being the finest small art museum in the Bajio. The collection of pre-Columbian figurines from Rivera's personal collection is extraordinary. Entry approx 70 pesos.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Mercado Hidalgo, Guanajuato Extraordinary enchiladas mineras and gorditas at the finest covered market in the Bajio. | Lunch: El Jardin restaurant, Jardin Union Outstanding Bajio cuisine on the finest plaza in Mexico. Extraordinary pozole and local cheese. | Dinner: La Carreta, Guanajuato The finest traditional Guanajuato dinner. Outstanding enchiladas mineras and local beef.

DAY 2

SAN MIGUEL AND DOLORES HIDALGO

MORNING

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COLONIAL TOWN IN THE AMERICAS

San Miguel de Allende is considered the most beautiful colonial town in the Americas by numerous international publications and the former UNESCO World Heritage designation confirms its extraordinary architectural integrity. The neo-Gothic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel, designed by indigenous mason Zeferino Gutierrez from a postcard of a Belgian church in 1880, is the finest facade in Mexico. The streets of coloured mansions surrounding it are extraordinary. Entry to church free. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive

MIDDAY

THE FABRICA LA AURORA AND THE SAN MIGUEL ART SCENE

San Miguel de Allende has the most extraordinary concentration of art galleries, studios and design shops in Mexico, a community of international and Mexican artists who have settled in the colonial mansions since the 1930s. The Fabrica La Aurora, a converted textile factory housing 30 galleries, is the finest art complex in the Bajio. The Escuela de Bellas Artes in the former convent is extraordinary. Entry to Aurora free. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive

AFTERNOON

DOLORES HIDALGO AND THE BIRTHPLACE OF MEXICAN INDEPENDENCE

The town of Dolores Hidalgo 45km from Guanajuato is where Father Miguel Hidalgo rang the church bell on September 16, 1810 and gave the Grito de Independencia speech that began the Mexican War of Independence. The extraordinary parish church where Hidalgo gave his cry and the Independence Museum in his former home are both remarkable. The ice cream flavours of Dolores Hidalgo are extraordinary and famous throughout Mexico. Entry to museum approx 30 pesos.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The hot springs of La Gruta near San Miguel de Allende are among the most extraordinary in Mexico, a series of natural thermal pools including one accessible only by swimming through a tunnel into an extraordinary cave illuminated by candles. Entry approx 200 pesos. The pools are finest on weekday mornings before tour groups arrive. The cave pool at the end of the tunnel is extraordinary and completely dark.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe Monet, San Miguel Outstanding coffee and extraordinary pan dulce in the finest cafe in the Bajio. | Lunch: The Restaurant, San Miguel Outstanding modern Mexican cuisine in San Miguel's finest restaurant. Book ahead. | Dinner: Aperi, San Miguel The finest tasting menu in the Bajio. Chef Matteo Salas uses extraordinary local ingredients. Book ahead.

DAY 3

QUERETARO AND BERNAL

MORNING

QUERETARO, UNESCO COLONIAL CITY OF THE SILVER ROUTE

Queretaro is the most underrated colonial city in Mexico, its extraordinary UNESCO historic centre of aqueducts, plazas and baroque churches visited by a fraction of the tourists who go to San Miguel. The extraordinary 1.28km Los Arcos aqueduct with its 74 arches built in 1735 is the finest in Mexico. The Neptune fountain, the extraordinary Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbo and the Cerro de las Campanas are all remarkable. Entry to most sites free. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive

MIDDAY

THE SIERRA GORDA BIOSPHERE AND THE UNESCO FRANCISCAN MISSIONS

The five Franciscan missions of the Sierra Gorda, built by Fray Junipero Serra between 1751 and 1768 before he went on to found the California missions, are UNESCO World Heritage sites of extraordinary indigenous Baroque architecture. The mission at Jalpan de Serra with its extraordinary churrigueresque facade incorporating Mayan and Aztec symbols alongside Catholic imagery is unlike anything else in Mexico. Entry approx 30 pesos each. Drive/Travel: 1 hour drive

AFTERNOON

THE PEÑA DE BERNAL, THE THIRD LARGEST MONOLITH IN THE WORLD

The Pena de Bernal is a 350-metre granite monolith rising above the extraordinary colonial town of Bernal, the third largest freestanding rock in the world after Gibraltar and Sugarloaf. The climb to the base takes 30 minutes through extraordinary scrubland with views over the Queretaro valley. The town of Bernal below has the finest quesillo and gordita street food in the Bajio. Entry free.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The extraordinary underground tunnels of Guanajuato city run for several kilometres beneath the entire historic centre, originally built as flood control channels in the 18th century and converted into roads after a dam was built upstream. The tunnel road passes beneath the city for 2km through extraordinary engineering at multiple levels. The view looking up from the lowest tunnel to daylight above is extraordinary. Walking the tunnels on foot is free and permitted.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Mercado de la Cruz, Queretaro Outstanding gorditas and atole from the finest market breakfast in the Bajio. | Lunch: La Mariposa, Queretaro The most extraordinary traditional restaurant in Queretaro. Outstanding local Bajio cuisine since 1940. | Dinner: 1810, Queretaro Outstanding modern Mexican cuisine near the UNESCO historic centre. Extraordinary local wine list.

DAY 4

MORNING

MIDDAY

AFTERNOON

💎 HIDDEN GEM

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

DAY 5

MORNING

MIDDAY

AFTERNOON

💎 HIDDEN GEM

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Where To Stay

Guanajuato, Nights 1 to 2 Stay within the callejones. Hotel Boutique 1850 or Quinta Las Acacias. Approx 60 to 150 USD. San Miguel, Night 3 option Casa de Sierra Nevada or Rosewood. Approx 100 to 350 USD. Budget: Hostal Alcatraz 15 to 30 USD. Budget Option Hostal Cantarranas, Guanajuato. Approx 15 to 30 USD per night.

Top Tips

1. Guanajuato callejones at night with the estudiantinas are extraordinary. Follow them from Jardin Union at 8pm.
2. El Pipila monument at sunset: the 360-degree view over the coloured city is the finest urban view in Mexico.
3. San Miguel Parroquia: the best light for photography is at 7am before the plaza fills with tourists.
4. Dolores Hidalgo ice cream: try the flavours of shrimp, corn, avocado and pulque. Extraordinary and unique.
5. Queretaro UNESCO centre is far less crowded than Guanajuato or San Miguel. Explore on a Tuesday.
6. The Guanajuato underground tunnel system is free to walk. Start at the Mercado Hidalgo end at night.

Total Budget

45 to 225 USD/day

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