Galicia
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Galicia is Spain's green, wild, oceanic corner. A land of Celtic culture, ancient granite villages, dramatic Atlantic coastline, the world's most famous pilgrimage route, and some of the finest seafood on earth. It receives far fewer tourists than it deserves and rewards those who come with extraordinary authenticity. This 3-day route covers the hidden heart of Galicia. The medieval city of Santiago de Compostela beyond the cathedral crowds, the stunning Rias Baixas estuary coast where Spain's finest white wine is made, and the wild Costa da Morte, the Coast of Death, where the land ends at the very edge of the known world.
Best Time To Visit
May to September (avoid heavy rain season)
Getting There
Fly into Santiago de Compostela Airport (SCQ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
MORNING
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA BEYOND THE CATHEDRAL
Most visitors arrive, photograph the cathedral and leave. But Santiago's medieval old town extends far beyond the Praza do Obradoiro. Explore the Praza das Praterias, the most beautiful and least visited of the cathedral's four squares. Find the Colexiata de Santa Maria do Sar, a 12th-century Romanesque church with visibly leaning columns, 20 minutes walk from the centre and completely tourist-free. Walk the old pilgrimage route through the medieval pilgrim hospital, now a luxury parador. Drive: 10 min walk to Mercado de Abastos
MIDDAY
MERCADO DE ABASTOS, THE SOUL OF GALICIAN FOOD
The Mercado de Abastos is one of the finest food markets in Spain, housed in a beautiful 19th-century colonnaded building just steps from the cathedral. Eight stone pavilions overflowing with fresh octopus, percebes (barnacles), razor clams, Galician beef, Tetilla cheese and Pazo de Senoran albariño wine. Eat at one of the market stalls directly for the most authentic Galician food experience imaginable. Drive: 15 min walk to Alameda Park
AFTERNOON
ALAMEDA PARK AND THE VIEW MOST PILGRIMS MISS
The Alameda is a beautiful 19th-century park above the old town where generations of students and pilgrims have rested after the Camino. Walk to the Paseo da Ferradura at the far end for the most famous view of the cathedral's twin towers above the rooftops. Then explore the Barrio de San Pedro, the neighbourhood where pilgrims traditionally stayed the night before entering the city, full of ancient pilgrim inns and granite alleyways.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo do Pobo Galego in the former Convento de San Domingos de Bonaval contains a triple helical staircase from the 17th century, one of the architectural wonders of Galicia. Three intertwined spirals that never meet, built by unknown architects. Free entry and visited by almost nobody despite being extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Casino, Santiago The finest historic cafe in Santiago, a beautiful Belle Epoque room beloved by locals and writers since 1876. | Lunch: Mercado de Abastos stalls Eat pulpo a feira (octopus with paprika) directly at the market stalls. The most authentic Galician lunch experience. | Dinner: Casa Marcelo, Santiago One Michelin star, innovative Galician cuisine in a relaxed open kitchen setting. One of the finest restaurants in northwest Spain.
DAY 2
RIAS BAIXAS
MORNING
CAMBADOS, THE CAPITAL OF ALBARIÑO WINE
Cambados is a perfectly preserved pazo town on the Ria de Arousa, the spiritual home of Galicia's finest white wine. The Praza de Fefiñans is one of the most beautiful Renaissance squares in Spain, flanked by a 17th-century pazo palace and an ancient church tower. The town produces more albariño per square kilometre than anywhere else on earth. Visit the Museo Etnografico del Vino for the full story and a tasting. Drive: 30 min drive to O Grove
MIDDAY
O GROVE, THE SEAFOOD CAPITAL OF GALICIA
O Grove is a peninsula town almost entirely surrounded by the Ria de Arousa, famous throughout Spain for the finest fresh seafood on the Atlantic coast. Walk the fish market at the harbour where the morning catch is still being landed. The Festa do Marisco in October is one of Spain's great food festivals but the seafood is extraordinary year-round. Order navajas (razor clams) and vieiras (scallops) fresh from the harbour restaurants. Drive: 20 min drive to Illa de Arousa
AFTERNOON
ILLA DE AROUSA, THE ISLAND NOBODY VISITS
The Illa de Arousa is the only inhabited island in the Galician rias, connected to the mainland by a long causeway but feeling completely separate. The island has almost no tourist infrastructure yet contains extraordinary beaches, a working fishing harbour, ancient pazos and views across the entire Ria de Arousa to the mountains beyond. Walk the 12km coastal path that circles the island for the finest views in the Rias Baixas.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ruta do Viño Rias Baixas connects 23 wine producers along the estuary coast, most of which offer tastings by appointment for just 5 to 10 euros. The Bodegas Martín Códax and Pazo de Barrantes are the most accessible and produce some of the finest albariño in Galicia. Book a morning tasting and pair it with fresh oysters from the local beds.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Cambados old town Breakfast in one of the arcaded cafes on the Praza de Fefiñans. Strong Galician coffee and a croissant before the bodegas open. | Lunch: Restaurante Beiramar, O Grove The finest seafood restaurant in O Grove. Order the seafood platter and a bottle of local Pazo de Señoran albariño. | Dinner: Taberna do Trasno, Cambados Beloved local taberna in the old town. Galician sharing plates, excellent albariño and the warmest welcome in the Rias Baixas.
DAY 3
COSTA DA MORTE
MORNING
MUXIA, THE SPIRITUAL END OF THE CAMINO
Muxia sits on a dramatic rocky headland at the very edge of the Atlantic, where many pilgrims come after Santiago to complete their spiritual journey at the sea. The Santuario da Virxe da Barca perches on the wave-battered rocks at the tip of the headland, surrounded by enormous granite boulders that are said to rock in the wind. The coastline here is among the wildest and most beautiful in Spain. Drive: 45 min drive to Cabo Fisterra
MIDDAY
CABO FISTERRA, THE END OF THE KNOWN WORLD
Fisterra means Land's End in Latin, and this was considered the edge of the known world by the Romans. The lighthouse at the tip of the cape is the westernmost point of mainland Spain. Pilgrims traditionally burn their boots here. The views from the cape over the Atlantic are extraordinary and the descent to the lighthouse involves one of the most dramatic coastal drives in Spain. On clear days you can see the Cies Islands to the south. Drive: 30 min drive to Carnota
AFTERNOON
CARNOTA BEACH AND THE LONGEST HORREO IN GALICIA
Carnota has one of the longest and wildest beaches in Galicia, a 7km arc of white sand backed by sand dunes with almost no development. The village contains the longest horreo (granite grain store) in all of Galicia, a 37-metre stone structure from 1764 that appears on every Galician postcard. The beach in the afternoon light with the mountains of the Serra do Barbanza behind it is one of the great landscapes of northwest Spain.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The drive along the Costa da Morte between Muxia and Fisterra on the coastal road rather than the inland main road passes through a succession of tiny fishing villages, hidden coves and dramatic cliff viewpoints that are almost entirely unknown even to Spanish visitors. Add 30 minutes to the drive and stop at every mirador you see.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Muxia village Simple local cafe on the harbour with excellent strong coffee. Watch the fishing boats before driving to the headland. | Lunch: Restaurante O Centolo, Fisterra Fresh seafood at the end of the world. Grilled centolla (spider crab) and local white wine looking out over the Atlantic. | Dinner: A Taberna de Cunqueiro, Mondoñedo If returning via the north coast, this is the finest traditional Galician restaurant in the region. Book ahead.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Santiago, Night 1 Parador de Santiago, the most historic hotel in Spain inside the 15th-century pilgrim hospital. Approx 150 to 250 euros. Rias Baixas, Night 2 Pazo de Rubianes, a stunning manor house in the wine country. Approx 100 to 160 euros per night. Budget Option Santiago: Hostal dos Reis Catolicós from approx 40 euros. Cambados: several excellent small pensions from approx 50 euros.
Top Tips
1. Cabo Fisterra is most beautiful at sunset. Time your arrival for the last hour of daylight.
2. Mercado de Abastos in Santiago is closed on Sundays. Plan your market visit for a weekday.
3. Galician seafood restaurants open for lunch from 1 to 4pm only. Dinner is secondary here.
4. Albariño wine is best drunk young and cold. Order the local Rias Baixas designation specifically.
5. The coastal road on Costa da Morte is slow. Allow 3 hours for what looks like a short drive.
6. Book the Parador de Santiago well in advance, it is one of the most sought-after hotels in Spain.
Total Budget
80 to 130 euros/day