FrenchRiviera
5
Day Itinerary •
France
Five days on the French Riviera lets you explore the full extraordinary length of the Cote d'Azur, from the extraordinary baroque old town of Nice and the hilltop villages above the sea to the magnificent Principality of Monaco, the extraordinary Cannes Film Festival coast, the wild Esterel massif and the finest rose wines of the Var hinterland. This route covers the complete French Riviera. The extraordinary Cours Saleya market of Nice, the perched villages of Eze and Gourdon, Monaco's extraordinary casino and oceanographic museum, the Fondation Maeght at Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the Cannes Croisette, the extraordinary Esterel corniche and the finest Provencal cuisine and rose wines of the interior.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly to Nice (NCE), or TGV from Paris to Nice in 5h30
Getting Around
Coastal train for Nice to Monaco, rental car for hinterland
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and some cliff paths
DAY 1
NICE
MORNING
VIEUX-NICE AND THE COURS SALEYA, THE FINEST MARKET ON THE RIVIERA
Vieux-Nice is the most extraordinary baroque old town in France, its labyrinth of narrow streets lined with Italian-influenced ochre facades unlike anywhere else on the Cote d'Azur. The Cours Saleya flower and food market is the finest in the south of France, its extraordinary colours and Nicois produce overwhelming from 7am. The Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate, the Chapelle de la Misericorde and the Palais Lascaris baroque interiors are all extraordinary. Free. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
COLLINE DU CHATEAU AND THE BAY OF ANGELS
The Colline du Chateau above Vieux-Nice gives the most extraordinary panoramic view of the entire Bay of Angels, the Promenade des Anglais curving 7km beneath the snow-capped Alps in extraordinary beauty. The free lift from the seafront or the steps through the old town reach the extraordinary summit waterfall and the remains of the medieval city. The view over the old port to Cap Ferrat is extraordinary. Free. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
CIMIEZ AND THE MATISSE MUSEUM
The Musee Matisse in the extraordinary 17th-century Genoese villa at Cimiez contains the finest collection of Matisse works in the world, donated by the artist himself. The extraordinary Roman remains of the Arenes de Cimiez beside the museum are entirely free and almost unknown to visitors. The Cimiez monastery garden where Matisse is buried gives extraordinary views over Nice. Entry to museum approx 10 euros.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Nietzsche Path from Eze-sur-Mer station to the hilltop village of Eze is the finest coastal walk on the Riviera, a 1.5-hour climb through maquis giving extraordinary sea views. Nietzsche walked it daily in 1883 while writing Thus Spoke Zarathustra. Take the train from Nice to Eze-sur-Mer, walk up to the village, return by bus. Entirely free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Chez Pipo, Nice The finest socca on the Riviera. Queue before 8am for the first batch from the wood oven. | Lunch: La Merenda, Nice Four tables, no phone, no cards. The most extraordinary traditional Nicois cooking in the city. | Dinner: Le Chantecler, Hotel Negresco Two Michelin stars on the Promenade des Anglais. Extraordinary Riviera cuisine and wine list.
DAY 2
EZE AND MONACO
MORNING
EZE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY PERCHED VILLAGE ON THE RIVIERA
Eze is the most extraordinary perched village on the French Riviera, its medieval streets climbing to a ruined castle at 427 metres with the most dramatic coastal view in France. The extraordinary Jardin Exotique of cacti and succulents at the summit is outstanding. The Parfumerie Fragonard in the village distils extraordinary Grasse perfumes. Arrive before 10am to experience the extraordinary village before the coaches arrive. Entry to garden approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
MONACO, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY PRINCIPALITY IN EUROPE
Monaco is the most extraordinary city-state in Europe, its extraordinary Casino de Monte-Carlo of 1863 the finest Belle Epoque building on the Riviera. The Prince's Palace on its rock, the Cathedral where Grace Kelly is buried, and the extraordinary Oceanographic Museum founded by Prince Albert I are all unmissable. The harbour of superyachts is extraordinary. Enter Monaco by train from Nice to avoid traffic. Casino entry approx 17 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
GRANDE CORNICHE, LA TURBIE AND ROQUEBRUNE
The Grande Corniche 500 metres above the sea gives the finest views over Monaco and the Italian coast. The extraordinary Trophy of Augustus at La Turbie, a Roman monument of 6BC, is the finest Roman ruin on the Riviera. The extraordinary medieval village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin perched above the sea, with its extraordinary 10th-century castle, is the finest hilltop village east of Nice. Entry to trophy approx 6 euros.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild on the Cap Ferrat peninsula between Nice and Monaco is the finest Belle Epoque villa on the Riviera, its extraordinary pink palace and nine themed gardens overlooking the sea on both sides. Built by Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild in 1912. Entry approx 17 euros. The musical fountains in the French garden perform every 20 minutes. Extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Eze village Coffee in the extraordinary village before 9am. The morning light over the sea is extraordinary. | Lunch: Cafe de Paris, Monte-Carlo The most celebrated brasserie on the Place du Casino. Extraordinary seafood and people-watching. | Dinner: La Chaumiere, La Turbie Outstanding Provencal cuisine above Monaco. Local rabbit, daube and Bellet wine from the Nice hills.
DAY 3
ANTIBES AND SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE
MORNING
ANTIBES, THE FINEST RAMPART TOWN ON THE RIVIERA
Antibes is the most extraordinary walled town on the French Riviera, its Vauban ramparts rising directly from the sea above Cap d'Antibes. The Musee Picasso in the Chateau Grimaldi, where Picasso worked for six months in 1946 donating his entire output, is the finest single-artist museum on the coast. The extraordinary Marche Provencal is the finest food market on the Riviera. The port where Fitzgerald and Hemingway drank is extraordinary. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE AND THE FONDATION MAEGHT
Saint-Paul-de-Vence attracted Picasso, Matisse, Chagall and Giacometti from the 1920s. The Fondation Maeght above the village is the finest private modern art museum in France, its extraordinary garden of Giacometti bronzes, Miro ceramics and Calder mobiles in a Mediterranean setting unmissable. The medieval village itself, its fortifications and the extraordinary cemetery where Chagall is buried are all extraordinary. Entry approx 18 euros. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
CHAPELLE DU ROSAIRE, MATISSE'S EXTRAORDINARY SACRED MASTERPIECE
The Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence, designed by Matisse between 1947 and 1951 as his gift to the Dominican nuns who nursed him, is the most extraordinary small sacred building in France. The combination of white ceramic tile drawings, yellow and blue stained glass and the play of Mediterranean light achieves the most spiritual interior on the Riviera. Book ahead. Entry approx 7 euros. Closed Sunday and Monday.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cap d'Antibes Sentier du Littoral is the finest coastal path on the Riviera, a 5km walk around the rocky cap past the villas of the ultra-wealthy with extraordinary Esterel views. The path passes the Villa Eilenroc gardens, open Wednesday mornings. Entirely free. Almost entirely used only by locals and entirely unknown to most visitors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Antibes old town Coffee on the ramparts before the market opens. The morning sea view from the walls is extraordinary. | Lunch: Le Brulot, Antibes Outstanding traditional Nicois and Provencal cooking. Local daube, pissaladiere and local rose wine. | Dinner: La Colombe d'Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence The most legendary restaurant on the Riviera. Walls covered in Picasso and Matisse given in lieu of payment.
DAY 4
CANNES AND THE ESTEREL
MORNING
CANNES, THE MOST GLAMOROUS FILM FESTIVAL CITY IN THE WORLD
Cannes is the most glamorous city on the French Riviera, its extraordinary Boulevard de la Croisette the finest promenade on the coast, lined with palace hotels and designer boutiques. The extraordinary Palais des Festivals where the film festival red carpet unfolds each May, the old port of Le Suquet with its extraordinary hilltop views and the daily flower market on the Forville square are all unmissable. Free to walk. Drive: 30 min boat
MIDDAY
ILES DE LERINS, THE EXTRAORDINARY ISLANDS OFF CANNES
The Iles de Lerins are the most extraordinary islands in Provence, their extraordinary combination of an ancient monastery, pine forests and turquoise water accessible in 15 minutes by ferry from Cannes. The extraordinary Abbaye de Lerins on Ile Saint-Honorat, founded in 410AD, is one of the oldest monasteries in France and still inhabited by Cistercian monks who produce an extraordinary liqueur. Ferry approx 18 euros return. Drive: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE ESTEREL CORNICHE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY COASTAL DRIVE IN PROVENCE
The Esterel corniche between Cannes and Saint-Raphael is the most extraordinary coastal drive in Provence, its extraordinary red porphyry rock formations plunging directly into an extraordinary turquoise sea. The extraordinary Cap Roux viewpoint at 452 metres gives the finest panorama of the Esterel and the Gulf of Napoule. Drive the N98 coast road in the afternoon light for the most extraordinary colour contrasts. Free.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary hilltop village of Mougins above Cannes, where Picasso spent the last 12 years of his life, is the finest hilltop village in the Alpes-Maritimes west of Vence. The extraordinary Musee de la Photographie contains the finest collection of Picasso portraits in France. The village square where Picasso walked daily is extraordinary. Entry to museum approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe on the Croisette, Cannes Coffee on the finest promenade in France before the morning ferry to the islands. | Lunch: Abbaye de Lerins, Ile Saint-Honorat Extraordinary lunch with wine made by the monks in one of the oldest monasteries in France. | Dinner: Le Park 45, Grand Hotel Cannes Outstanding creative Provencal cuisine on the Croisette. Local seafood and Bandol rose wine.
DAY 5
VAR AND SAINT-TROPEZ
MORNING
GRIMAUD AND THE EXTRAORDINARY VAR HINTERLAND
Grimaud is the most extraordinary medieval hilltop village in the Var, its extraordinary ruined castle above the village giving the finest views over the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. The village is entirely authentic, with none of the tourist development of the coast below. The extraordinary Chartreuse de la Verne in the Maures forest, a Carthusian monastery of extraordinary beauty in a wild setting, is 20km inland. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
BANDOL AND THE FINEST ROSE WINE IN FRANCE
The Bandol appellation produces the finest rose wine in France from the Mourvèdre grape, its extraordinary terraced vineyards above the sea giving a wine of extraordinary depth and complexity entirely unlike the pale Provence rose. Domaine Ott and Chateau Pibarnon are the finest estates. The extraordinary port town of Bandol with its casino and extraordinary market are outstanding. Tasting at domaine free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
SAINT-TROPEZ, THE MOST LEGENDARY PORT ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA
Saint-Tropez is the most legendary port on the French Riviera, its extraordinary pastel-coloured quay of the Port de Peche lined with extraordinary superyachts and fishing boats in equally extraordinary proximity. The Musee de l'Annonciade contains the finest collection of Post-Impressionist and Fauvist paintings in Provence. The extraordinary Place des Lices market on Tuesday and Saturday morning is the finest on the coast. Entry approx 8 euros.
đź’Ž HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Presqu'ile de Giens near Hyeres is the finest hidden peninsula on the French Riviera, its extraordinary double tombolo of sand connecting it to the mainland creating two lagoons of extraordinary colour. The salt pans attract extraordinary flamingos. The ferry to the Ile de Porquerolles, the finest car-free island in France, departs from Giens. Ferry approx 22 euros return.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Grimaud village Coffee in the extraordinary hilltop village before driving to the coast. | Lunch: Chez Camille, Ramatuelle Extraordinary Provencal lunch under the pines above the extraordinary Pampelonne beach. | Dinner: Le Girelier, Saint-Tropez Outstanding fish restaurant on the extraordinary port. Local bouillabaisse and finest Provence rose.
Where To Stay
Nice, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Negresco on the Promenade or Hotel Windsor in Cimiez. Approx 120 to 250 euros. Antibes or Juan-les-Pins, Night 3 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc or boutique hotel in Antibes old town. Approx 100 to 300 euros. Cannes or Saint-Tropez, Nights 4 to 5 Hotel Barriere Le Majestic Cannes or La Bastide de Saint-Tropez. Approx 150 to 400 euros.
Top Tips
1. Cours Saleya flower market at 7am before tourists arrive is the most extraordinary market on the Riviera.
2. Take the coastal train Nice to Monaco. It is the finest train journey in France and costs under 4 euros.
3. Eze village is most extraordinary at dusk after the day visitors leave. Book dinner for the views.
4. The Esterel corniche road at sunrise, before the traffic builds, is the finest drive on the Riviera.
5. Saint-Tropez village at 7am before the boats arrive is an extraordinary authentic Provencal experience.
6. Rose wine from Domaine Ott or Chateau Miraval is the finest on the Riviera. Buy from the domaine direct.
Total Budget
120 to 200 euros/day
