FrenchRiviera
3
Day Itinerary •
France
Three days on the French Riviera gives you the essential Cote d'Azur, from the extraordinary Promenade des Anglais of Nice curving beneath the extraordinary limestone Alps above, to the magnificent hilltop villages of Eze and Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the extraordinary Principality of Monaco and the finest markets and cuisine of Provence by the sea. This route covers the heart of the Riviera. The extraordinary Vieux-Nice with its baroque churches and coloured facades, the flower market of the Cours Saleya, the extraordinary Grande Corniche road above the sea, the medieval village of Eze perched on its extraordinary rocky peak, Monaco's extraordinary casino and the finest rose wines of Provence.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly to Nice (NCE), or TGV from Paris in 5h30
Getting Around
Train along the coast, rental car for hilltop villages
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and some cliff paths
DAY 1
NICE
MORNING
VIEUX-NICE AND THE COURS SALEYA, THE FINEST OLD TOWN ON THE RIVIERA
Vieux-Nice is the most extraordinary baroque old town in France, its extraordinary labyrinth of narrow streets lined with Italian-influenced ochre and terracotta facades unlike anywhere else on the Cote d'Azur. The Cours Saleya flower and food market is the finest in the south of France, its extraordinary colours and scents overwhelming from 7am. The Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate and the extraordinary Chapelle de la Misericorde are unmissable. Entry to chapels free. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
COLLINE DU CHATEAU AND THE PORT
The Colline du Chateau above Vieux-Nice gives the most extraordinary panoramic view of the entire Bay of Angels, the Promenade des Anglais curving for 7km beneath the snow-capped Alps. The extraordinary waterfall on the hill, the ruins of the medieval cathedral and the view over the old port of Nice to Cap Ferrat beyond are all extraordinary. Take the free lift from the seafront or the extraordinary steps through the old town. Free. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS AND THE MATISSE MUSEUM
The Promenade des Anglais is the most famous seafront in France, its extraordinary 7km curve of palm trees, blue chairs and pebble beaches beneath the limestone Alps one of the great urban walks in Europe. The Musee Matisse in the extraordinary 17th-century Genoese villa at Cimiez contains the finest collection of Matisse works in the world, donated by the artist himself. Entry to museum approx 10 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cimiez neighbourhood above Nice, where Matisse lived and is buried, contains the finest Roman remains in the south of France. The Arenes de Cimiez, a Roman amphitheatre of the 3rd century, and the extraordinary Roman baths complex are entirely free and almost completely unknown to visitors on the seafront below. The view over Nice from the Cimiez gardens is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Chez Pipo, Nice The finest socca chickpea pancake on the Riviera. Queue before 8am for the first batch. | Lunch: La Merenda, Nice Four tables, no phone, no card payments. The most extraordinary traditional Nicois cuisine in the city. | Dinner: Le Chantecler, Hotel Negresco Two Michelin stars on the Promenade des Anglais. Extraordinary Riviera cuisine and wine list.
DAY 2
EZE AND MONACO
MORNING
EZE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY HILLTOP VILLAGE ON THE RIVIERA
Eze is the most extraordinary perched village on the French Riviera, its extraordinary medieval streets climbing to a ruined castle at 427 metres above the sea with the most dramatic coastal view in France. The extraordinary Jardin Exotique of cacti and succulents on the summit is outstanding. Nietzsche wrote the third part of Thus Spoke Zarathustra after walking the extraordinary Nietzsche Path from the sea below. Entry to garden approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
MONACO, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY PRINCIPALITY IN EUROPE
Monaco is the most extraordinary city-state in Europe, its extraordinary Casino de Monte-Carlo of 1863 the finest Belle Epoque building on the Riviera. The extraordinary Prince's Palace on its rock, the Cathedral where Grace Kelly is buried, the extraordinary Oceanographic Museum founded by Prince Albert I in 1910 and the extraordinary harbour of superyachts are all unmissable. Casino entry approx 17 euros. Oceanographic Museum approx 18 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE GRANDE CORNICHE AND LA TURBIE
The Grande Corniche is the most extraordinary coastal road in France, its extraordinary route 500 metres above the sea giving the finest views over Monaco, Cap Martin and the Italian Riviera beyond. The extraordinary Trophy of Augustus at La Turbie, a Roman monument of 6BC built to celebrate Augustus's conquest of the Alpine tribes, is the finest Roman monument on the Riviera. Entry approx 6 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Nietzsche Path from Eze-sur-Mer beach station to the hilltop village of Eze is the finest coastal walk on the French Riviera, its extraordinary 1.5-hour climb through maquis and olive trees giving increasingly extraordinary views over the Ligurian sea. Nietzsche walked it daily in 1883. Entirely free. Take the train from Nice to Eze-sur-Mer, walk up, taxi or bus back down.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Eze village Coffee before the day visitors arrive. The early morning light over the sea from Eze is extraordinary. | Lunch: Cafe de Paris, Monaco The most celebrated brasserie in Monte-Carlo. Extraordinary seafood and people-watching on the Place du Casino. | Dinner: La Chaumiere, La Turbie Outstanding Provencal cuisine above Monaco. Local rabbit, ratatouille and Bellet wine from Nice hills.
DAY 3
ANTIBES AND SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE
MORNING
ANTIBES, THE FINEST RAMPART TOWN ON THE RIVIERA
Antibes is the most extraordinary walled town on the French Riviera, its extraordinary Vauban ramparts rising directly from the sea above the extraordinary Cap d'Antibes. The Musee Picasso in the extraordinary Chateau Grimaldi, where Picasso worked for six months in 1946 and donated his entire output from that period, is the finest single-artist museum on the Riviera. The extraordinary Marche Provencal is the finest food market on the coast. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
SAINT-PAUL-DE-VENCE, THE EXTRAORDINARY ARTISTS' VILLAGE
Saint-Paul-de-Vence is the most extraordinary medieval village in the Alpes-Maritimes, its extraordinary 16th-century ramparts enclosing a single street of galleries that attracted Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Miro and Giacometti from the 1920s. The Fondation Maeght on the hill above is the finest private modern art museum in France, its extraordinary garden of sculptures by Giacometti, Miro and Calder unmissable. Entry to Fondation approx 18 euros. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
CHAPELLE DU ROSAIRE, MATISSE'S EXTRAORDINARY SACRED GIFT
The Chapelle du Rosaire in Vence, designed by Matisse between 1947 and 1951 as his gift to the Dominican nuns who nursed him, is the most extraordinary small sacred building in France. The extraordinary combination of white ceramic tile drawings, yellow and blue stained glass and the play of Mediterranean light on the white walls achieves the most spiritual interior on the Riviera. Book ahead. Entry approx 7 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cap d'Antibes Sentier du Littoral is the finest coastal path on the French Riviera, its extraordinary 5km walk around the rocky cap past the villas of the ultra-wealthy giving the finest views of the Esterel and the Alps. The path passes the extraordinary Villa Eilenroc gardens, open Wednesday mornings. Entirely free. Almost entirely used only by locals.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Antibes old town Coffee on the ramparts before the Marche Provencal opens. The morning sea view is extraordinary. | Lunch: Le Brulot, Antibes Outstanding traditional Nicois and Provencal cooking in the old town. Local daube, pissaladiere and rose. | Dinner: La Colombe d'Or, Saint-Paul-de-Vence The most legendary restaurant on the Riviera. Walls covered in art given by Picasso and Matisse in lieu of payment.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Nice, Nights 1 to 2 Hotel Negresco on the Promenade or Hotel Windsor in Cimiez. Approx 120 to 250 euros. Alternatively Villa or apartment in Vieux-Nice. More authentic, often better value. From approx 100 euros. Antibes or Vence, Night 3 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc Antibes or Hotel Diana Vence. Approx 100 to 200 euros.
Top Tips
1. Cours Saleya flower market at 7am before the tourists arrive is the most extraordinary market on the Riviera.
2. Take the coastal train from Nice to Monaco. It is the finest train journey in France and costs under 4 euros.
3. Eze village is most extraordinary at dusk after the day visitors leave. Stay for dinner with views over the sea.
4. Socca chickpea pancake from Chez Pipo in Nice is the finest street food on the Riviera. Queue early.
5. The Matisse Chapel in Vence is the most extraordinary small sacred building in France. Book ahead.
6. Rose wine from Bandol or Provence is extraordinary with seafood. Buy from a cave cooperative, not a restaurant.
Total Budget
120 to 200 euros/day