Fes Imperial
3
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Three days in Fes and the Imperial Cities covers the essential experience of the oldest university city in the world. The extraordinary Fes el-Bali medina, the largest living medieval city on earth, the tanneries that have operated unchanged since the 11th century, the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the extraordinary Imperial city of Meknes are all within reach of a three day circuit that will feel like a journey to another century. This route moves from the sensory labyrinth of Fes el-Bali through the extraordinary Roman ruins at Volubilis to the remarkable Imperial grandeur of Meknes, giving the full sweep of 2,000 years of civilisation in the Moroccan heartland in three intense and extraordinary days.
Best Time To Visit
March to May or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Fes Saiss (FEZ) or Casablanca (CMN)
Getting Around
Walking in medinas, grand taxi for day trips
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking on uneven medina surfaces
DAY 1
FES EL-BALI: MEDINA, TANNERIES AND SUNSET
MORNING
BAB BOU JELOUD, BOU INANIA MEDERSA AND THE TANNERIES
Enter through the extraordinary blue gate of Bab Bou Jeloud then turn immediately to the Bou Inania Medersa, the most extraordinary Marinid building in Fes. Walk down the Talaa Kebira through the most atmospheric souk street in Morocco to the Chouara tannery. The extraordinary honeycomb of dye vats visible from the leather shop terraces has operated unchanged since the 11th century. The colour and smell are unlike anything else on earth. Entry medersa approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
THE AL-QARAWIYYIN AND THE NEJJARINE FOUNTAIN
The Al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD, is the oldest continuously operating university in the world. The courtyard is visible through the extraordinary brass-studded doors. Walk to the Place Nejjarine, the most beautiful square in Fes, its extraordinary 18th-century fountain and the remarkable Nejjarine Museum in the caravanserai above outstanding. The woodworkers souk filling the surrounding lanes with the smell of cedar is extraordinary. Museum entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE MERENID TOMBS AT SUNSET
The ruined Merenid tombs on the hill above Fes el-Bali give the finest panoramic view of the medina. At sunset, when the minarets catch the light and the muezzin calls echo across the valley, the view of the largest functioning medieval city in the world is one of the most extraordinary sights in Africa. The extraordinary density of the rooftops, the green-tiled mosques and the labyrinth of streets below is remarkable. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Saffarin Medersa beside the Qarawiyyin is the least visited and arguably the most beautiful of the Fes medersas. Its extraordinary courtyard opens directly onto the Oued Fes river. The carved stucco is in remarkable condition. Entry approx 2 euros. Almost always quiet.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Fes el-Bali Baghrir pancakes, honey and argan oil before the morning medina. | Lunch: Clock Cafe rooftop Merguez sandwiches, harira and fresh juice above Bab Bou Jeloud. | Dinner: Riad dinner The finest bastilla in Morocco: pigeon, almonds and cinnamon in crisp pastry.
DAY 2
VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNES
MORNING
VOLUBILIS, THE FINEST ROMAN RUINS IN AFRICA
Volubilis, the westernmost city of the Roman Empire, has the finest Roman mosaics in Africa, its extraordinary triumphal arch of Caracalla and the remarkable Capitoline Temple set on a hill above the Moroccan plain. The site is covered in wildflowers in spring and the extraordinary mosaics of the House of Orpheus and the House of Venus are outstanding. The view from the arc toward the Middle Atlas is remarkable. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
MOULAY IDRISS AND THE MEKNES BAB MANSOUR
Moulay Idriss, Morocco's holiest town, clings to its hillside above the Volubilis plain. Walk the extraordinary white lanes and take tea with the remarkable hospitality of the town before driving to Meknes and the extraordinary Bab Mansour gate, the finest gate in Morocco, its extraordinary decorated facade of green and white zellige panels dominating the Place el-Hedim. Entry Moulay Idriss free. Bab Mansour free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
MEKNES ROYAL STABLES AND HERI ES-SOUANI
The Heri es-Souani granaries and stables of Moulay Ismail are the most extraordinary feat of Moroccan imperial architecture, their vast underground vaulted halls designed to feed the city through twenty years of siege. The royal stables alongside could house 12,000 horses. The extraordinary scale and atmosphere of the ruins are outstanding. Return to Fes by train for the evening. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Borj Nord fortress above Fes el-Bali gives the finest view of the medina and houses the remarkable Arms Museum. Almost always quiet. Entry approx 3 euros. The terrace at dusk is the finest vantage point in the city.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Fes Tea and khobz bread before the drive to Volubilis. | Lunch: Moulay Idriss tea house Simple home-cooked lunch in the extraordinary holy town. | Dinner: Dar Anebar, Fes Beautiful riad restaurant in the heart of Fes el-Bali.
DAY 3
FES: MEDERSAS, MELLAH AND POTTERY
MORNING
THE ATTARINE MEDERSA AND THE FES EL-JEDID
The Attarine Medersa adjacent to the Qarawiyyin Mosque is the most refined Marinid decoration in Fes, its extraordinary courtyard of carved stucco and zellige considered the finest in the city. Walk to Fes el-Jedid for the extraordinary Mellah, the oldest Jewish quarter in Morocco, founded in 1438. The remarkable synagogues and the extraordinary Royal Palace gates of gilded brass facing the Place des Alaouites are both outstanding. Entry medersa approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
THE FES POTTERY QUARTER
The pottery quarter at the northern edge of the medina has the finest traditional Fes ware workshops in Morocco. The extraordinary blue and white hand-painted pottery, the wood-fired kilns of the cooperative and the remarkable process from raw clay to finished glaze are all outstanding. The cooperative allows visitors to watch the entire production process. The prices at source are the finest in the city and the pottery makes the most authentic souvenir of Fes. Free to visit. Drive: 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
FINAL MEDINA WALK AND FAREWELL
A final afternoon in Fes el-Bali without a guide or destination: simply walk and get deliberately lost. The northern medina around the Ben Youssef Mosque area is the most authentic, the craftsmen still working in their extraordinary traditional workshops in streets unchanged for centuries. A final mint tea on a rooftop above the medina and one last look at the extraordinary city below complete the experience. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Tannakra neighbourhood in the northern medina is the most untouristed part of Fes el-Bali. The extraordinary traditional houses, the neighbourhood mosques and the complete absence of souvenir shops make it feel genuinely medieval. Walk through it on the final morning. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Final Moroccan breakfast of baghrir pancakes and fresh orange juice. | Lunch: Restaurant Nejjarine, Fes Traditional lunch above the most beautiful square in the medina. | Dinner: Farewell dinner, Fes riad Final evening in the oldest university city in the world.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Fes el-Bali riad, all 3 nights Inside the old medina walls is the only place to stay in Fes. Approx 70 to 160 euros. Riad location Book near the Bou Inania Medersa. Central, close to the tanneries and the Qarawiyyin. Advance booking Fes riads book out months ahead in spring. Reserve well in advance.
Top Tips
1. Hire a licensed guide for the first Fes medina morning. The labyrinth is genuinely disorienting.
2. The tanneries view is from the leather shop terraces. Entry is free but a purchase is expected.
3. Volubilis is best in the morning when the light falls on the triumphal arch. Go early.
4. The Merenid tombs above the medina at sunset give the finest view of Fes el-Bali. Never miss them.
5. Meknes is far less visited than Fes. The royal stables and granaries are extraordinary and quiet.
6. The train between Fes and Meknes is fast, comfortable and excellent value. Use it over taxis.
Total Budget
85 to 190 euros/day