Extremadura
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Extremadura is Spain's most dramatic secret. A vast, empty region on the Portuguese border with a concentration of extraordinary history that defies its obscurity. This is the land that produced most of the conquistadors who conquered the Americas, and it spent their gold on cities of extraordinary Renaissance and medieval architecture that most of the world has never heard of. This 3-day route covers the three UNESCO World Heritage cities of Extremadura. Caceres, the finest medieval walled city in Spain. Trujillo, the birthplace of Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of the Inca Empire. And Merida, the Roman capital of Hispania with more Roman monuments than anywhere outside Rome itself. Plus the extraordinary Monfrague National Park, one of Europe's finest for raptors.
Best Time To Visit
March to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Madrid (MAD) then drive 3 hours or Badajoz (BJZ)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 55 to 90 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
CACERES
MORNING
CACERES OLD CITY, THE FINEST MEDIEVAL WALLED TOWN IN SPAIN
Caceres has the most complete medieval walled city in Spain. The old town within the walls contains 30 medieval towers, dozens of Renaissance palaces and virtually no modern intrusion. UNESCO World Heritage Site. The storks that nest on every tower and chimney from February to August are extraordinary. The city was used as a filming location for Game of Thrones (King's Landing) and House of the Dragon. Arrive at dawn before the tour groups and the city is entirely yours. Drive: 10 min walk around old town
MIDDAY
THE CONQUISTADOR PALACES AND HIDDEN SQUARES
The streets within the walls of Caceres are lined with the palaces built by the families of the conquistadors who returned from the Americas with extraordinary wealth. The Palacio de los Golfines de Abajo, the Casa de los Toledo-Moctezuma (built by the son of Hernán Cortés and the daughter of the Aztec emperor) and the Palacio de las Cigüenas are the most extraordinary. Find the Plaza de Santa Maria, the most beautiful square in the city, and the hidden Plaza de San Jorge behind the Jesuit church. Drive: 15 min walk to food market
AFTERNOON
AMORAIMA AND IBERICO HAM COUNTRY
Extremadura produces the finest iberico ham in Spain, from pigs that roam freely across the ancient dehesa landscape of cork and holm oak trees. The market in Caceres and the specialist shops around the old town sell the finest jamon iberico de bellota at prices far below what the same ham costs in Madrid or Barcelona. Visit a local bodega for a tasting of Ribera del Guadiana wine, the local DO, which produces extraordinary value wines almost entirely unknown outside the region.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Museo de Caceres in the Casa de las Veletas contains an extraordinary Arab cistern from the Moorish city, a magnificent 10th-century underground water storage system with horseshoe arches reflected in the still water below. One of the finest surviving Moorish structures in Extremadura. Entry approx 1.20 euros and almost entirely unvisited.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Caceres old town Several excellent cafes in the medieval streets. Breakfast before the city comes alive. | Lunch: Restaurante Torre de Sande The finest restaurant in Caceres, inside a 15th-century tower in the old city. Local game and Extremaduran produce. Book ahead. | Dinner: Meson El Asador, Caceres Beloved traditional restaurant outside the walls. Roast lamb from the dehesa and local wine.
DAY 2
TRUJILLO AND MONFRAGUE
MORNING
TRUJILLO, THE CITY THAT CONQUERED AN EMPIRE
Trujillo is the most extraordinary small city in Extremadura. Birthplace of Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of the Inca Empire, and of dozens of other conquistadors who built the Spanish empire in the Americas. The Plaza Mayor has a bronze equestrian statue of Pizarro donated by the government of Peru. The surrounding palaces were built with Inca gold. The castle above the city has extraordinary views over the dehesa landscape that stretches to the horizon. Drive: 30 min drive to Monfrague
MIDDAY
MONFRAGUE NATIONAL PARK, THE RAPTOR CAPITAL OF EUROPE
Monfrague is the finest place in Europe to watch birds of prey. The rocky gorge of the Tajo river through the national park supports the largest colony of black vultures in the world, alongside griffon vultures, imperial eagles, black storks and dozens of other raptor species. The Penon de Monfrague, a dramatic cliff above the river, has hundreds of vultures circling at eye level. The viewpoints are free and the experience is extraordinary even for non-birdwatchers. Drive: 15 min drive to Roman bridge
AFTERNOON
ALCANTARA, THE ROMAN BRIDGE THAT CHANGED ENGINEERING
The Roman Bridge at Alcantara is one of the most extraordinary Roman engineering achievements still standing. Built in 106 AD over the Tagus river, it stands 48 metres above the water on six arches spanning 204 metres, with no mortar used in the entire construction. A Roman triumphal arch stands at the centre. The bridge carried all traffic between Merida and Salamanca for 1,900 years. Free to visit.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Castillo de Trujillo above the city contains extraordinary views but the hidden gem is the cistern inside the castle, a vast underground water storage chamber of Roman and Arab origin. Walk the castle walls at sunset for the most extraordinary view of the dehesa landscape, the cathedral and the surrounding plains turning gold in the evening light.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Trujillo Plaza Mayor Breakfast under the arcades of the extraordinary Plaza Mayor. Watch the storks on the church towers. | Lunch: Restaurante La Troya, Trujillo The most beloved restaurant in Trujillo. Generous Extremaduran home cooking at extraordinary value. | Dinner: Hotel Hospederia Alcantara If staying near the bridge, the hospederia restaurant serves outstanding local lamb and river trout.
DAY 3
MERIDA
MORNING
MERIDA ROMAN THEATRE, THE GREATEST IN SPAIN
Merida was the capital of Roman Lusitania and contains more Roman monuments than anywhere in Spain. The Teatro Romano was built in 16 BC and is still used for performances today. The adjacent amphitheatre held 15,000 spectators for gladiatorial combat. The combined entry includes both monuments and the extraordinary Museo Nacional de Arte Romano, designed by Rafael Moneo and built around the actual Roman remains of the city. Entry approx 12 euros for the combined ticket. Drive: 15 min walk to Roman bridge
MIDDAY
THE ROMAN BRIDGE, MOORISH CITADEL AND ARCH OF TRAJAN
The Roman bridge at Merida is the longest surviving Roman bridge in the world, 792 metres long on 60 arches over the Guadiana river. The adjacent Alcazaba is a Moorish citadel built in 835 AD using stones taken from the Roman city. The Arch of Trajan and the Temple of Diana stand free in the modern city, surrounded by apartment blocks, one of the most surreal and extraordinary urban landscapes in Spain. Drive: 15 min walk to hidden Roman sites
AFTERNOON
MERIDA HIDDEN ROMAN SITES
Beyond the main sites, Merida contains extraordinary Roman remains scattered throughout the modern city. The hippodrome foundations, the Roman baths, the Mithraeum (an underground temple to the god Mithras), the Villa Romana de la Alcazaba with extraordinary floor mosaics, and dozens of smaller fragments of the Roman city visible in walls, foundations and gardens throughout the modern town. Entry to most is included in the combined archaeological ticket.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Basilica de Santa Eulalia in Merida is built directly over the site of the martyrdom of Extremadura's patron saint in 304 AD, and the crypt beneath the basilica contains the most complete archaeological sequence in Merida, showing Roman, Visigothic and early Christian layers in perfect stratigraphic order. Entry approx 3 euros and completely overlooked by most visitors.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Merida old town Several excellent cafes near the Roman theatre. Breakfast before the ruins open at 9am. | Lunch: Restaurante Rex Numitor, Merida Most celebrated restaurant in Merida. Traditional Extremaduran cuisine with creative updates. Local game and Ribera del Guadiana wines. | Dinner: Restaurante Nicolas, Merida Beloved local restaurant serving outstanding cochinito iberico and local cheese. Excellent value.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Caceres, Night 1 Parador de Caceres, a stunning 14th-century palace inside the old city walls. Approx 110 to 170 euros per night. Trujillo, Night 2 Parador de Trujillo, a converted 16th-century convent with extraordinary cloister. Approx 100 to 160 euros per night. Budget Option Caceres: Hotel Don Manuel from approx 50 euros. Merida: Hotel Velada from approx 55 euros.
Top Tips
1. Caceres old city is best at dawn and dusk. Arrive before 8am for completely empty medieval streets.
2. Extremadura in July and August can reach 42C. Visit all outdoor sites before 11am and after 6pm.
3. Buy jamon iberico de bellota directly from Extremadura producers. It is half the price of Madrid.
4. Merida combined ticket covers theatre, amphitheatre and museum. Buy at the theatre, not online.
5. Monfrague raptor watching is best 9am to midday. Bring binoculars for the vulture colony.
6. The Parador de Caceres and Parador de Trujillo are inside the historic monuments. Worth the splurge.
Total Budget
65 to 105 euros/day