Essaouira Atlantic
5
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Five days on the Moroccan Atlantic coast takes you through the most atmospheric and least hurried stretch of coastline in North Africa. Essaouira, the wind city of the Gnawa musicians, the blue fishing boats and the extraordinary 18th-century ramparts, is the finest and most relaxed walled city in Morocco. The Atlantic coast south to Agadir passes through the argan forest, the extraordinary surf beaches of Taghazout and the ancient Phoenician trading post of Mogador. This route covers the complete Atlantic coast circuit. The Essaouira medina and its extraordinary ramparts, the blue harbour and the fish grills of the port, the remarkable argan oil cooperatives of the Haha Berbers, the surf capital of Taghazout, the Souss Massa National Park with its extraordinary flamingo lagoons and the extraordinary anti-Atlas foothills above Tiznit.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Marrakech (RAK) or Agadir (AGA)
Getting Around
Rental car essential, CTM bus for Essaouira
Budget Per Day
Approx 70 to 140 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
ESSAOUIRA: RAMPARTS AND HARBOUR
MORNING
THE ESSAOUIRA RAMPARTS AND THE SKALA DE LA VILLE
Essaouira was designed in 1765 by a French architect working for Sultan Mohammed III and is the most perfectly planned medina in Morocco. The extraordinary Skala de la Ville, the sea bastion with its line of bronze cannons pointing over the Atlantic, is the finest defensive structure on the Moroccan coast. The views from the ramparts over the blue harbour and the open ocean are extraordinary at any hour. Entry free. Drive: 15 min walk
MIDDAY
THE BLUE FISHING HARBOUR AND THE PORT FISH GRILLS
The Essaouira fishing harbour is the most atmospheric on the Atlantic coast. The blue wooden boats unload their catch on the quay as seagulls wheel overhead and the fish sellers set up the extraordinary grill stalls. The harbour fish grills are the finest outdoor lunch in Morocco, the extraordinary fresh sardines, sea bream and swordfish cooked simply over charcoal and eaten at the quayside. Point at your fish and agree the price before cooking. Drive: 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE MEDINA SOUKS AND THE GNAWA MUSICIANS
The Essaouira medina is the most relaxed in Morocco, its extraordinary white and blue-shuttered houses and the remarkable wood craftsmen working in thuya and cedar creating a unique atmosphere. The Gnawa musicians, descendants of sub-Saharan slaves brought to Morocco centuries ago, play their extraordinary trance music in the medina every evening. The extraordinary rhythm of the guembri bass lute and the iron krakeb castanets drifting through the blue lanes is unforgettable.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ile de Mogador offshore from Essaouira is the only breeding site of Eleonora's falcon outside the Mediterranean. The extraordinary spectacle of hundreds of falcons hunting over the island in late summer is remarkable. Boat trips from the harbour in summer. The island was a Phoenician trading post from the 7th century BC.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Moroccan breakfast on the riad terrace with Atlantic sea air. | Lunch: Port fish grills, Essaouira harbour The finest fresh sardines in Morocco cooked over charcoal on the quay. | Dinner: Restaurant Les Alizees The finest restaurant in Essaouira. Extraordinary Atlantic fish and seafood.
DAY 2
ESSAOUIRA: MEDINA AND BEACH
MORNING
THE ESSAOUIRA MEDINA: THUYA WOOD AND ARGAN SOUKS
The Essaouira medina has the finest thuya wood workshops in Morocco, the extraordinary burl of the Atlas thuya tree worked into remarkable boxes, frames and furniture by the craftsmen of the Skala neighbourhood. The argan souk sells the finest argan oil, amlou almond paste and argan cosmetics at excellent prices. The extraordinary leather tannery quarter and the remarkable Mellah, the old Jewish quarter with its decorated synagogue, are both outstanding. Free. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE ORSON WELLES LEGACY AND THE CITADELLE DE LA VILLE
Orson Welles filmed his extraordinary Othello in Essaouira in 1949, using the ramparts, the harbour and the medina as the backdrop for Desdemona's murder. A remarkable statue of the director stands in the Place Prince Moulay el-Hassan. The Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah Museum in the extraordinary 19th-century riad has the finest collection of Essaouira musical instruments and crafts. Entry museum approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE ESSAOUIRA BEACH AND THE ATLANTIC DUNES
The Essaouira beach stretches 10km south from the medina walls, its extraordinary Atlantic surf, the constant trade wind and the remarkable dune system behind making it the finest windsurfing and kitesurfing location in Africa. Walk south along the beach to the extraordinary dunes of Diabat where Jimi Hendrix allegedly stayed in 1969 and where the ruins of the extraordinary Borj el-Berod kasbah sink slowly into the sand. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary ruins of the Portuguese fortified trading post of Castelo Real de Mogador, built in 1506 on the Ile de Mogador offshore, are visible from the Essaouira ramparts. The island was one of the most important Portuguese trading posts in West Africa. Boat trips from the harbour. Entry approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Bab Laachour Mint tea and msemen on the terrace beside the most beautiful gate in Essaouira. | Lunch: Taros Cafe rooftop Atlantic view rooftop. Moroccan salads, fish brochettes and fresh juice. | Dinner: Gnawa evening in the medina Street food and the extraordinary Gnawa trance music after dark.
DAY 3
ARGAN FOREST AND TAGHAZOUT
MORNING
THE HAHA BERBER ARGAN COOPERATIVE
The extraordinary argan forest between Essaouira and Agadir, the only place on earth where the argan tree grows, is the heartland of the Haha Berber culture and the finest argan oil production in Morocco. The Cooperative Argan Tidzi near Essaouira allows visitors to watch the extraordinary traditional stone-grinding process and taste the remarkable products at source. The goats climbing in the argan trees to eat the fruit are the most extraordinary sight on the Atlantic coast. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE IMMOUZER DES IDA OUTANANE WATERFALL
The Immouzer waterfall, 60km southeast of Agadir in the extraordinary honey-terraced Anti-Atlas foothills, is the most beautiful waterfall in southern Morocco. The drive through the palm and banana plantations of the Souss valley, climbing to the extraordinary limestone plateau where the waterfall drops from a natural bridge, is remarkable. The honey cooperative at Immouzer sells the finest Atlas honey in Morocco. Entry free. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
TAGHAZOUT, MOROCCO'S SURF CAPITAL
Taghazout is the finest surf village on the Moroccan coast, its extraordinary point breaks attracting surfers from across Europe and its remarkable village of whitewashed houses above the bay making it the most beautiful surf destination in Africa. Surf lessons are available for all levels from the numerous schools on the beach. The extraordinary views from the headland above the village over the full sweep of Anchor Point are outstanding. Lessons approx 20 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Sidi Rbat headland at the mouth of the Souss river, 30km south of Agadir, is one of the finest birdwatching sites in Morocco. The remarkable stork colony, the extraordinary migratory waders and the remarkable views over the Souss estuary and the Anti-Atlas behind are all outstanding. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Essaouira Final Atlantic breakfast before the argan forest drive. | Lunch: Immouzer honey cooperative cafe Berber lunch with the finest honey in Morocco above the waterfall. | Dinner: Surf restaurant, Taghazout Fresh Atlantic fish and avocado in the finest surf village in Africa.
DAY 4
PARADISE VALLEY AND SOUSS MASSA
MORNING
PARADISE VALLEY, THE HIDDEN OASIS
Paradise Valley is a hidden oasis gorge 25km northeast of Agadir, its extraordinary palm-lined pools of clear water entirely invisible from the road above. The walk down into the gorge takes about 30 minutes and passes through extraordinary palm grove and oleander before arriving at the natural swimming pools. The extraordinary silence of the gorge, the turquoise water and the palm canopy above make it the finest hidden valley on the Atlantic coast. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
AGADIR FISH MARKET AND THE HARBOUR
The Agadir fishing harbour is the largest on the Moroccan Atlantic coast and one of the most extraordinary fishing ports in Africa. The early afternoon fish auction, when the extraordinary catch from the Atlantic is sold at remarkable speed, is one of the finest spectacles on the coast. The harbour fish restaurants serve the freshest and best value Atlantic seafood in Morocco. The extraordinary variety of species on the quay is remarkable. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE SOUSS MASSA NATIONAL PARK
The Souss Massa National Park south of Agadir protects the most extraordinary wetland on the Moroccan Atlantic coast. The lagoon at the mouth of the Massa river attracts remarkable flocks of greater flamingo, the extraordinary northern bald ibis and the finest variety of Atlantic waders in North Africa. The bald ibis, one of the rarest birds in the world, breeds only here and at a handful of other sites. The extraordinary estuary at sunset is outstanding. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Kasbah of Agadir Oufella, the ruined hilltop fortress above the modern city that survived the 1960 earthquake that destroyed the city below, gives the finest panoramic view of the Agadir bay and the Souss plain from any accessible point. Entry free. The ruins and the view are extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Taghazout Atlantic sunrise breakfast before the Paradise Valley drive. | Lunch: Harbour restaurant, Agadir The freshest Atlantic fish at the most extraordinary fishing port. | Dinner: Agadir seafront Grilled Atlantic sardines on the seafront promenade as the sun sets.
DAY 5
TIZNIT AND THE RETURN COAST
MORNING
TIZNIT, THE SILVER CITY OF THE SOUTH
Tiznit is the most extraordinary walled town in southern Morocco, its remarkable 6km circuit of pink-red pisé walls enclosing a medina of silver jewellers and Berber craftsmen. The silver souk of Tiznit produces the finest Berber silver jewellery in Morocco, the remarkable fibulas, anklets and the extraordinary tiara crowns of the Sous Berber women all outstanding. The remarkable blue mosque and the sacred spring of Lalla Tiznit are at the heart of the medina. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE ANTI-ATLAS FOOTHILLS AND THE ARGAN PLATEAU
The drive north from Tiznit through the extraordinary Anti-Atlas foothills passes through the finest argan landscape in Morocco, the ancient trees covering the rocky plateau in an extraordinary open forest stretching to the horizon. The Berber villages of the plateau, built from the same rose-red stone as the mountains, are almost entirely unvisited. The extraordinary panorama from the Anti-Atlas crest over the Souss plain and the Atlantic is remarkable. Free. Drive: 2.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO ESSAOUIRA ALONG THE COASTAL ROAD
The coastal road north from Agadir to Essaouira passes through the finest unspoilt stretch of the Moroccan Atlantic coast, the extraordinary headlands and hidden coves of the Haha region largely unknown to international visitors. The fishing villages of Sidi Kaouki and Cap Sim have remarkable Atlantic beaches entirely without development. Return to Essaouira for a final evening on the extraordinary ramparts as the Atlantic sun sets. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cap Rhir headland between Taghazout and Essaouira has a remarkable lighthouse built in 1912 and the finest view of the Atlantic coast from any accessible point between Agadir and Essaouira. The extraordinary argan forest on the headland and the Barbary ground squirrels that live in it are remarkable. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Agadir Early start for the drive to Tiznit. | Lunch: Silver souk cafe, Tiznit Simple Berber lunch in the most atmospheric silver city in Morocco. | Dinner: Final dinner, Essaouira Return to the wind city for the finest Atlantic fish farewell.
Where To Stay
Essaouira medina riad, Nights 1 to 2 Inside the medina walls. Approx 60 to 140 euros per night. Taghazout surf guesthouse, Nights 3 to 4 Beachfront or village guesthouse. Approx 40 to 100 euros. Tiznit or Agadir, Night 5 Simple hotel for the Souss Massa day. Approx 40 to 80 euros.
Top Tips
1. Essaouira is always windy. Bring a light jacket even in summer. The wind is the city's character.
2. The fish grills at the harbour are the finest lunch in Morocco. Point at the fish and pay by weight.
3. The Gnawa musicians play in the medina every evening. Their extraordinary trance music is unmissable.
4. Argan oil from the Haha Berber cooperatives is the most authentic and best priced in Morocco.
5. Taghazout surf lessons are available for all levels. The waves are consistent and the beach beautiful.
6. The Souss Massa flamingo lagoon is best in the morning. Bring binoculars if you have them.
Total Budget
80 to 173 euros/day