Edinburgh Lothians
3
Day Itinerary •
UK
Three days in Edinburgh covers the essential highlights of one of the great European capital cities: the extraordinary castle on its volcanic rock, the Royal Mile with its hidden medieval closes, Arthur's Seat rising from the middle of the city, the Georgian New Town and the National Gallery, and a day in the remarkable East Lothian countryside to see the Bass Rock gannet colony from North Berwick. This route gives the full Edinburgh experience across three intense days: the medieval Old Town and the volcanic landscape of Holyrood Park on day one, the Georgian New Town and the finest free art gallery in Britain on day two, and an escape to the extraordinary East Lothian coast on day three for the largest gannet colony in the world.
Best Time To Visit
May to September, or August for the Festival
Getting There
Edinburgh Airport (EDI) or direct trains from London
Getting Around
Walking in city, train to East Lothian
Budget Per Day
Approx 120 to 200 GBP per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and one gentle hill
DAY 1
EDINBURGH OLD TOWN AND ARTHUR'S SEAT
MORNING
EDINBURGH CASTLE AND THE ROYAL MILE
Begin at Edinburgh Castle at opening time to beat the queues. The Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny and the extraordinary One O'Clock Gun are all outstanding. Walk down the Royal Mile exploring the hidden closes on both sides: Advocates Close for the finest New Town view, White Horse Close at the bottom for the most atmospheric courtyard. Greyfriars Kirkyard, where the faithful dog Bobby kept vigil, is a short detour off the Mile. Entry castle approx 18 GBP. Travel: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
HOLYROOD PALACE AND THE SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT
The Palace of Holyroodhouse at the foot of the Royal Mile is where Mary Queen of Scots lived and where her secretary Rizzio was murdered in her supper room. The extraordinary State Apartments and the ruined 12th-century Holyrood Abbey in the palace grounds are both outstanding. The Scottish Parliament building immediately beside it is one of the most remarkable modern buildings in Britain. Entry palace approx 17 GBP. Travel: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
ARTHUR'S SEAT SUMMIT
Arthur's Seat, the ancient volcano rising 251 metres from the middle of the city, is the finest urban hill walk in Britain. The path from St Margaret's Loch takes about 45 minutes to the summit. The extraordinary panoramic view over Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, the Lothian coast and on clear days the Highland peaks is the finest view of any capital city in Europe. Return via the Radical Road below Salisbury Crags for a different perspective. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
Mary King's Close, the extraordinary 17th-century street buried under the Royal Mile, is one of the most remarkable historic spaces in Edinburgh. Guided tours only. Entry approx 16 GBP. The underground preserved street is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: The Petit Paris, Grassmarket French-Scottish crossover breakfast below the castle rock. | Lunch: The Elephant House cafe The cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote early Harry Potter. Haggis toastie. | Dinner: The Witchery by the Castle The most atmospheric restaurant in Scotland. Book ahead.
DAY 2
NEW TOWN, NATIONAL GALLERY AND LEITH
MORNING
THE GEORGIAN NEW TOWN AND CHARLOTTE SQUARE
Edinburgh's New Town is the largest and finest Georgian urban landscape in Britain. Walk George Street and then Charlotte Square, designed by Robert Adam in 1791 and the finest Georgian square in Scotland. The Dean Village, the extraordinary former milling community hidden in the Water of Leith gorge below the New Town, is one of the most remarkable and unexpected spaces in Edinburgh. The Dean Bridge view over the gorge is outstanding. Free. Travel: 10 min walk
MIDDAY
THE SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY
The Scottish National Gallery on the Mound houses the finest art collection in Scotland, with extraordinary works including Titian, Raphael, Velazquez and the remarkable Scottish collection from Ramsay to the Scottish Colourists. The Impressionist collection includes Van Gogh, Monet and Gauguin. The building itself is one of the finest neoclassical interiors in Britain. Allow at least two hours and do not skip the Scottish rooms. Free. Travel: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
CALTON HILL AND LEITH
Calton Hill gives the finest panoramic view of Edinburgh at any time of day, the extraordinary National Monument, the Nelson Monument and the city skyline with the castle behind making it one of the most remarkable urban viewpoints in Europe. Walk down to Leith, Edinburgh's port and the finest eating neighbourhood in Scotland, for an evening on the Shore waterfront. Free to hill.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Stockbridge neighbourhood 15 minutes walk from the New Town has the finest independent shops, the remarkable Sunday market and the most beautiful stretch of the Water of Leith walkway in Edinburgh. The Stockbridge colonies housing is outstanding. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Valvona and Crolla, Elm Row The finest Italian deli in Scotland. Extraordinary coffee and pastries. | Lunch: Scottish National Gallery cafe Excellent cafe in the extraordinary vaulted basement. | Dinner: The Kitchin, Leith Shore Tom Kitchin's Michelin-starred restaurant. Local and seasonal. Book ahead.
DAY 3
EAST LOTHIAN AND NORTH BERWICK
MORNING
NORTH BERWICK AND THE SCOTTISH SEABIRD CENTRE
Take the 35-minute train from Waverley to North Berwick, the finest seaside town in Scotland. The extraordinary Scottish Seabird Centre uses live cameras on the Bass Rock to show the gannet colony in real time. The Bass Rock itself, 3km offshore and covered white with 150,000 gannets, is the largest single-rock gannet colony in the world. Boat trips from the harbour give the most extraordinary close-up view. Entry centre approx 8 GBP. Boat approx 18 GBP. Travel: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
TANTALLON CASTLE
Tantallon Castle, 3km east of North Berwick, is the most dramatically sited castle in Scotland, its extraordinary pink sandstone curtain wall rising from a clifftop above the sea with the Bass Rock directly opposite. Built by the Earl of Douglas in the 14th century, the extraordinary wall stands almost to its full height. The view of the Bass Rock from the castle parapet is the finest in East Lothian. Entry approx 8 GBP. Travel: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
NORTH BERWICK BEACH AND THE RETURN
North Berwick beach is the finest town beach in Scotland, its extraordinary arc of sand facing the Bass Rock and the volcanic Berwick Law hill behind the town. The Law, a volcanic plug similar to Edinburgh's Castle Rock and Arthur's Seat, can be climbed in 45 minutes for the finest view of the East Lothian coast and the Firth of Forth. Return to Edinburgh by train for a final evening. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Dirleton Castle 5km west of North Berwick is the most beautiful ruined castle in East Lothian, its 13th-century circular towers and extraordinary walled garden making it one of the most picturesque historic sites in Scotland. Entry approx 8 GBP.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Edinburgh hotel breakfast Early train to North Berwick. Take breakfast at the hotel. | Lunch: The Lobster Shack, North Berwick harbour The finest lobster roll in Scotland at the harbour wall. | Dinner: Farewell dinner, Edinburgh Final evening in the Athens of the North. Ondine for seafood.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Old Town, all 3 nights Stay on or near the Royal Mile for the full experience. Approx 100 to 220 GBP. New Town alternative Georgian streets, quieter, 10 minutes walk to everything. Approx 90 to 180 GBP. August Festival Book at least 6 months ahead. Prices triple during the Festival fortnight.
Top Tips
1. Edinburgh Castle is expensive. Book online in advance and go first thing to beat the queues.
2. The closes off the Royal Mile are free to explore and contain the most atmospheric spaces in the city.
3. Arthur's Seat is free and takes under an hour. Start from St Margaret's Loch for the easiest route.
4. The National Museum of Scotland is one of the finest free museums in Britain. Allow half a day.
5. Book Bass Rock boat trips from North Berwick well ahead in summer. The gannet colony is extraordinary.
6. Calton Hill at sunset gives the finest view of the city. It takes 10 minutes to walk up from Princes St.
Total Budget
145 to 305 GBP/day