Eastern Turkey
5
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Five days in Eastern Turkey takes you into the most remote and historically extraordinary corner of the country, a landscape shaped by the great civilisations of Urartu, Armenia, Persia and the Ottomans. Mount Ararat rising above the plains, the extraordinary Armenian cathedral on Akdamar island, the palace of Ishak Pasha built on a clifftop above the Persian border and the remarkable volcanic crater lake of Nemrut all await the traveller prepared for the distances and rewards of the far east. This route covers the essential Eastern Anatolia. The extraordinary n shak Pasha Palace above Dogubeyazit, the Armenian cathedral of Akdamar on Lake Van, the Urartian citadel of Van, the extraordinary basalt city of Diyarbakir within its Roman walls, the honey-coloured stone city of Mardin above the Mesopotamian plain and the extraordinary Gobeklitepe, the oldest temple complex on earth.
Best Time To Visit
May to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Van (VAN) or Diyarbakir (DIY)
Getting Around
Rental car essential, distances are large
Budget Per Day
Approx 50 to 90 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate, long drives and some hiking
DAY 1
DOGUBEYAZIT AND MOUNT ARARAT
MORNING
ISHAK PASHA PALACE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY PALACE IN TURKEY
Ishak Pasha Palace sits on a clifftop above the town of Dogubeyazit, its extraordinary silhouette of domes, minarets and towers set against the permanent snow of Mount Ararat behind. Built between 1685 and 1784 by the Kurdish Ishak Pasha dynasty, it combines Ottoman, Persian, Georgian and Armenian architectural elements in the most extraordinary palace complex in eastern Anatolia. The harem, the mosque and the extraordinary tomb are all outstanding. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
MOUNT ARARAT AND THE METEOR CRATER
Mount Ararat at 5,137 metres is the highest peak in Turkey and one of the most extraordinary natural monuments in the world, its perfect volcanic cone rising from the Anatolian plateau above the town. The Dogubeyazit meteor crater, 35km north of the town, is one of the largest and best preserved impact craters in the Middle East, its extraordinary circular form clearly visible from the road. The drive across the plateau with Ararat dominating the horizon is remarkable. Free. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
THE ROAD TO VAN AND THE KURDISH VILLAGES
The drive from Dogubeyazit to Van crosses one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Turkey, the high Anatolian plateau at 2,000 metres stretching to the horizon with Mount Ararat receding behind and the first glimpse of Lake Van appearing ahead. The Kurdish villages along the route, built from the same volcanic basalt as the plateau, are extraordinary in their austerity and beauty. Arrive at Van in time for the extraordinary sunset over the lake.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The ancient Urartian citadel of Cavustepe, 25km south of Van, is one of the finest and least visited Urartian sites in eastern Turkey. The extraordinary 9th-century BC fortifications, the temple of Haldi and the remarkable cuneiform inscriptions on the gateway stones are all outstanding. Almost always deserted. Entry approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse, Dogubeyazit Early start for Ishak Pasha at sunrise. Simple Kurdish breakfast. | Lunch: Tea house near Ishak Pasha Kurdish tea and flatbread below the extraordinary palace cliff. | Dinner: Van otlu peynir restaurant Van herb cheese, kavut and the finest Kurdish lamb on arrival.
DAY 2
LAKE VAN AND NEMRUT CRATER
MORNING
AKDAMAR ISLAND AND THE ARMENIAN CATHEDRAL
The Church of the Holy Cross on Akdamar island in Lake Van was built in 921 AD by the Armenian King Gagik I of Vaspurakan and is the finest surviving example of Armenian architecture in Turkey. The extraordinary exterior stone reliefs depicting biblical scenes, from Adam and Eve to Jonah and the Whale, are the finest medieval stone carvings in Anatolia. The boat crossing from the shore gives the most extraordinary view of the church against the blue of Lake Van. Boat and entry approx 15 euros. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE URARTIAN CITADEL OF VAN
The Rock of Van, an extraordinary basalt promontory rising from the shore of the lake, was the capital of the Urartian kingdom from the 9th century BC. The cuneiform inscriptions of King Xerxes carved into the rock face, the extraordinary Urartian rock tombs and the remarkable Ottoman mosque perched on the summit make it one of the most extraordinary sites in eastern Turkey. The view of Lake Van from the summit is outstanding. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
NEMRUT CRATER LAKE, THE VOLCANIC WONDER OF LAKE VAN
The Nemrut crater lake on the western shore of Lake Van is an extraordinary volcanic caldera filled with a lake within a lake, one of the largest and deepest volcanic craters in the world. The drive up to the crater rim passes through extraordinary alpine meadows. The crater contains two separate lakes of different colours, hot springs and the most extraordinary views of Lake Van stretching to the horizon below. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Kef Kalesi fortress above the town of Adilcevaz on the northern shore of Lake Van is one of the finest and least visited Urartian fortresses in Turkey. The extraordinary black basalt walls rising above the lake and the remarkable cuneiform inscriptions inside the fortress are outstanding. Almost always deserted. Entry free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Van city Van breakfast is the most celebrated in Turkey. Forty dishes of cheese, honey and herbs. | Lunch: Lakeside restaurant, Akdamar shore Fresh Lake Van pearl mullet and meze on the water. | Dinner: Lokanta in Tatvan Simple Kurdish cooking after the extraordinary Nemrut crater drive.
DAY 3
BITLIS AND DIYARBAKIR
MORNING
BITLIS GORGE AND THE SELJUK TOMB TOWERS
Bitlis sits in the most extraordinary gorge in eastern Turkey, the city squeezed into a narrow canyon where the cliffs rise directly from the rooftops. The extraordinary Seljuk-era tomb towers in the city, the 16th-century Ottoman castle on the cliff above and the remarkable old bazaar with its extraordinary vaulted hans make Bitlis one of the most atmospheric cities in the east. The drive through the gorge approaching the city is remarkable. Entry free. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
DIYARBAKIR, THE BASALT CITY WITHIN ITS ROMAN WALLS
Diyarbakir is enclosed by the most extraordinary city walls in Turkey, a 6km circuit of black basalt built by the Romans and expanded by the Byzantines and Artuqids. The walls are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside, the extraordinary Ulu Mosque, converted from a Byzantine cathedral, and the remarkable Armenian Church of the Virgin Mary reflect the extraordinary multi-layered history of the city. The Hevsel Gardens below the walls are outstanding. Entry walls approx 5 euros. Drive: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE DIYARBAKIR BAZAAR AND THE SURICI OLD QUARTER
The old quarter of Diyarbakir within the city walls is one of the most extraordinary historic urban landscapes in Turkey, its narrow basalt lanes, hans, mosques and churches reflecting a thousand years of Kurdish, Armenian, Syriac and Ottoman history. The Hasanpasa Han and the Hasan Pasha Hamam are both extraordinary. The bazaar sells the finest watermelon in Turkey and the most remarkable local crafts in the east. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Tigris River valley south of Diyarbakir, where the river cuts through a remarkable canyon below the ancient city, has several extraordinary rock-cut monasteries and the remarkable Dicle Bridge, a ten-arched Artuqid bridge built in 1065 still carrying traffic. Free. The valley is one of the finest walks near the city.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Tatvan Simple eastern breakfast before the drive through Bitlis gorge. | Lunch: Lokanta in Bitlis Kurdish lamb stew and flatbread in the extraordinary gorge city. | Dinner: Kebapci in Diyarbakir The finest cig kofte, liver kebab and Kurdish meze in the basalt city.
DAY 4
MARDIN AND THE TUR ABDIN
MORNING
MARDIN, THE HONEY-STONE CITY ABOVE MESOPOTAMIA
Mardin is the most extraordinary city in eastern Turkey, its remarkable honey-coloured limestone houses cascading down a steep hillside above the flat Mesopotamian plain stretching to the Syrian border. The extraordinary Zinciriye Medresesi, the remarkable Sultan Isa Medresesi and the 14th-century Ulu Mosque are all outstanding. The view from the citadel above the city over the Mesopotamian plain is the finest in the east. Entry free. Drive: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
THE SYRIAC MONASTERIES OF THE TUR ABDIN PLATEAU
The Tur Abdin plateau east of Mardin is the heartland of the Syriac Christian community, its extraordinary monasteries maintaining an unbroken tradition of liturgical Aramaic, the language of Christ. The Deyrulzafaran Monastery, founded in 493 AD and still inhabited by Syriac monks, is the finest. The extraordinary stone architecture, the remarkable ancient liturgy and the extraordinary library make it unlike any other religious site in Turkey. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
GOBEKLITEPE, THE OLDEST TEMPLE ON EARTH
Gobeklitepe, discovered in 1994 and dating to 9600 BC, is the oldest known religious complex on earth, predating Stonehenge by 6,000 years. The extraordinary T-shaped limestone pillars, carved with extraordinary animal reliefs and arranged in circular enclosures, were built by hunter-gatherers before the invention of agriculture. The site has fundamentally changed our understanding of human civilisation. The museum and viewing platforms are excellent. Entry approx 10 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary ancient city of Dara, 30km east of Mardin, was a major Byzantine frontier fortress built in 505 AD and contains the most remarkable underground cisterns in eastern Turkey, a vast subterranean water system carved from the bedrock. The extraordinary necropolis and city walls are equally remarkable. Entry approx 5 euros. Almost always quiet.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Diyarbakir Final morning in the basalt city before the drive to Mardin. | Lunch: Cercis Murat Konagi, Mardin The finest restaurant in Mardin. Extraordinary Kurdish and Syriac cuisine. | Dinner: Rooftop restaurant, Mardin Dinner above the Mesopotamian plain. The view at night is extraordinary.
DAY 5
SANLIURFA AND HARRAN
MORNING
SANLIURFA, THE CITY OF THE PROPHETS
Sanliurfa is the most extraordinary city of faith in Turkey, its remarkable pool of sacred carp believed to be the spot where the Prophet Abraham was cast into fire by Nimrod and saved by God, the flames turning to water and the firewood to fish. The extraordinary Golbasi gardens surrounding the pool, the remarkable Mevlid-i Halil cave where Abraham was born and the extraordinary old bazaar are all outstanding. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE GOBEKLITEPE MUSEUM AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
A full morning at Gobeklitepe with a guide reveals the extraordinary depth of the site's importance. The ongoing excavations, the extraordinary Enclosure D with its central pillars depicting human arms and the remarkable animal carvings on every surface are best appreciated slowly. The new museum at the site entrance contains the finest display of the carved pillar details and the extraordinary finds from the excavations. Entry approx 10 euros. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
HARRAN, THE BEEHIVE VILLAGE AND THE ANCIENT CITY
Harran is the most extraordinary village in Turkey, its ancient beehive houses built from mud brick in a form unchanged since the Bronze Age. The city of Harran is mentioned in the Bible as the home of Abraham before his journey to Canaan and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth. The extraordinary Crusader castle, the ancient university ruins and the beehive village together make Harran one of the most remarkable places in the east. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Sogmatar sanctuary, 60km east of Sanliurfa, is one of the most remote and remarkable ancient sites in Turkey. The extraordinary ruined temple city, the sacred hill with its Syriac inscriptions and the remarkable rock-cut tunnels are almost entirely unvisited. Free. The drive through the extraordinary Harran plain to reach it is unforgettable.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Mardin Final morning above the Mesopotamian plain before the drive to Urfa. | Lunch: Lokanta near Gobeklitepe Simple southeastern cooking before the extraordinary ancient site. | Dinner: Urfa kebapci, Sanliurfa The finest Urfa kebab, the hottest in Turkey, with extraordinary meze.
Where To Stay
Dogubeyazit, Night 1 Simple guesthouse below Ishak Pasha. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night. Van, Nights 2 to 3 City centre hotel near the lake. Approx 50 to 100 euros per night. Mardin, Nights 4 to 5 Stone house hotel with views over Mesopotamia. Approx 80 to 160 euros.
Top Tips
1. Ishak Pasha Palace at sunrise, before any other visitors arrive, is one of Turkey's finest moments.
2. The Akdamar boat to the Armenian cathedral runs hourly in summer. Arrive early for calm water.
3. Mardin stone city is best explored on foot in the early morning before the heat builds on the plateau.
4. Gobeklitepe requires a guide to appreciate fully. Book at the site entrance on arrival.
5. Eastern Turkey hospitality is extraordinary. Accept tea invitations freely wherever they are offered.
6. Diyarbakir watermelon is the finest in Turkey. The city's bazaar sells it from enormous stalls in summer.
Total Budget
80 to 210 euros/day