Durmitor
3
Day Itinerary •
Montenegro
Three days in Durmitor National Park takes you through the most dramatic mountain landscape in Montenegro, a UNESCO World Heritage wilderness of glacial lakes, ancient black pine forest and the deepest river canyon in Europe, the extraordinary Tara Canyon carved 1,300 metres into the Dinaric Alps. This route covers the essential Durmitor. The Black Lake circuit at dawn with the Bobotov Kuk massif reflected in the still water, white water rafting through the extraordinary Tara Canyon, the high pasture trails above Zabljak, the Curevac viewpoint over the canyon and the finest local lamb, smoked cheese and Montenegrin mountain honey throughout.
Best Time To Visit
June to September
Getting There
Fly into Podgorica (TGD), drive 2.5 hours to Zabljak
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 50 to 90 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate, mountain hiking
DAY 1
BLACK LAKE AND CUREVAC
MORNING
BLACK LAKE AT DAWN, THE HEART OF DURMITOR
The Black Lake is the finest glacial lake in Montenegro, a deep blue tarn below the extraordinary Bobotov Kuk massif at 1,416 metres that gives Durmitor its most iconic image. Arrive before 7am when the surface is completely still and the peaks reflect perfectly in the water with no other visitors. The 3.6km circuit trail around the lake through ancient black pine forest takes 90 minutes and gives extraordinary views of the massif from every angle. National park entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
CUREVAC VIEWPOINT, 1,300 METRES ABOVE THE TARA CANYON
The Curevac viewpoint above the Tara Canyon is the finest elevated view in Durmitor National Park, a rocky promontory at 1,625 metres that looks directly down into the deepest river canyon in Europe. The canyon floor 1,300 metres below is a ribbon of emerald water visible between sheer limestone walls. The drive from Zabljak to Curevac takes 20 minutes on a mountain road, then a 15-minute walk to the viewpoint edge. The scale of the canyon from above is extraordinary. Free. Drive: 20 min drive back
AFTERNOON
ZABLJAK TOWN AND THE DURMITOR RING ROAD
Zabljak is the highest town in the Balkans at 1,456 metres and the finest base for the national park. The small town square has excellent local restaurants, craft shops selling smoked cheese and honey, and the national park visitor centre with detailed trail maps and information. The Durmitor ring road passes through extraordinary mountain scenery and gives access to several smaller glacial lakes and viewpoints in the afternoon. Park visitor centre free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Malo Jezero, the Small Lake adjacent to the Black Lake in Durmitor, is connected to the main lake by a short channel and almost always quieter. A trail continues beyond the Small Lake through extraordinary old-growth black pine forest to a series of mountain meadows where the local shepherds bring their flocks in summer. Free, 30 minutes from the Black Lake car park.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Zabljak Coffee before the dawn drive to Black Lake. The town wakes early for mountain people. | Lunch: Konoba at Black Lake Local lamb, smoked cheese and mountain honey at the lake restaurant after the morning circuit. | Dinner: Restaurant Soa, Zabljak The finest restaurant in Zabljak. Local lamb, mountain trout and excellent Montenegrin wine.
DAY 2
TARA CANYON RAFTING
MORNING
TARA CANYON WHITE WATER RAFTING, THE DEEPEST CANYON IN EUROPE
The Tara Canyon is the deepest river canyon in Europe at 1,300 metres and the finest white water rafting experience in the Balkans. Full-day rafting trips from Zabljak operators cover the extraordinary 18km section from Brstanovica to Scepan Polje, running through a sequence of rapids between sheer limestone walls with the canyon floor visible only as a ribbon of sky above. The Tara river water is extraordinarily cold and clear, rated among the cleanest rivers in Europe. Book the day before with any Zabljak operator. Approx 50 to 70 euros per person all-inclusive. Drive: 1 hour drive back
MIDDAY
CANYON LUNCH ON THE RIVER BANK
Full-day Tara rafting trips include a traditional Montenegrin lunch on the river bank at the halfway point, typically local lamb or roasted meat with bread, local cheese and beer. The lunch spot on the extraordinary gravel beach below the canyon walls, with the cold river running past and the peaks visible above, is one of the finest outdoor meals in Montenegro. The guides are universally excellent and knowledgeable about the canyon geology and history. Drive: Included in rafting trip
AFTERNOON
DJURDJEVICA TARA BRIDGE AND CANYON VIEWS
The Djurdjevica Tara bridge above the canyon is the most extraordinary bridge in Montenegro, a five-arch concrete viaduct 172 metres above the river completed in 1940. The view from the bridge over the canyon and the emerald Tara river below is extraordinary. The bridge was used as a filming location for several Yugoslav films. The drive from the rafting endpoint back to Zabljak passes over or near the bridge. Walking across is free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The abandoned village of Trsa in the Tara Canyon below the rafting route is one of the most extraordinary ghost villages in Montenegro, its stone houses and terraced fields visible from the river but inaccessible except on foot. The village was evacuated in the 1960s when the surrounding land became part of the national park. The guides point it out from the river.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Early breakfast in Zabljak Hearty breakfast before the rafting departure. Operators typically leave by 9am. | Lunch: River bank lunch Included in the rafting package. Local roasted meat and cheese on the canyon floor. | Dinner: Konoba Durmitor, Zabljak Local mountain lamb, smoked cheese and cold Niksicho beer after the extraordinary canyon day.
DAY 3
HIGH PASTURES
MORNING
BOBOTOV KUK APPROACH TRAIL, THE ROOF OF MONTENEGRO
Bobotov Kuk at 2,523 metres is the highest peak in Durmitor and the third highest in Montenegro. The approach trail from the Sedlo pass at 1,907 metres climbs through extraordinary high alpine terrain past several glacial lakes to the summit approach in about two hours each way. The full summit requires experience and appropriate equipment, but the trail to the final ridge at 2,300 metres gives extraordinary panoramic views over the entire Durmitor massif, the Tara Canyon and on clear days to the Adriatic coast. Free. Drive: 30 min drive back
MIDDAY
SKRCKO JEZERO, THE HIDDEN HIGH ALPINE LAKE
Skrcko Jezero at 1,686 metres is the finest of the lesser-visited glacial lakes in Durmitor, a deep blue tarn below the extraordinary Stit peak reached by a 45-minute trail from the Sedlo road. The lake is almost always deserted and the swimming in the extraordinary cold clear water with the peaks above is one of the finest mountain experiences in Montenegro. The reflection of the surrounding peaks in the still water in the morning is extraordinary. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
ZABLJAK MARKET AND DEPARTURE
The Zabljak local market near the town centre sells the finest mountain produce in Montenegro, including extraordinary smoked cheeses made from sheep and cow milk from the Durmitor pastures, mountain honey from hives kept on the alpine meadows, dried mushrooms from the black pine forests and the local Niksicko beer. Stock up before the drive back to Podgorica for departure. The drive from Zabljak to Podgorica takes 2.5 hours through the extraordinary Moraca Canyon.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Moraca Canyon on the road from Zabljak to Podgorica is one of the finest river canyon drives in Montenegro, the road carved into the extraordinary limestone cliff face above the Moraca river for 30km. The canyon is at its most extraordinary in the afternoon light when the shadows fall across the sheer walls. The drive is free and entirely extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Zabljak Mountain breakfast before the Bobotov Kuk approach. Bring water and snacks for the trail. | Lunch: Picnic at Skrcko Jezero Pack lunch from Zabljak for the extraordinary high alpine lake. No facilities on site. | Dinner: Restaurant in Podgorica Dinner in the capital after the mountain drive before the flight home.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Zabljak, all nights Hotel Durmitor or Autokamp Mlinski Potok. Approx 50 to 100 euros per night. Mountain huts Dom na Lokvama and other huts for summit approach overnights. Approx 15 to 25 euros. Budget option Guesthouses and private rooms in Zabljak from approx 25 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. The Black Lake at dawn before 7am is extraordinary. The Bobotov Kuk massif reflected in the completely still water with no other visitors is one of the finest mountain scenes in the Balkans.
2. Book Tara Canyon rafting the day before with a Zabljak operator. Full-day trips cover the finest 18km section and include lunch on the river bank.
3. The Tara Canyon is 1,300 metres deep at its deepest point, the second deepest canyon in the world after the Colorado. The scale from the rafting boat is extraordinary.
4. Durmitor in July and August sees some visitors but nothing like Alpine crowds. The park is vast and most trails have almost nobody on them even in peak season.
5. The local smoked cheese and lamb from the Durmitor pastures is among the finest in the Balkans. Buy directly from the katun shepherds' huts above Zabljak.
6. Zabljak at 1,456 metres is the highest town in the Balkans. Bring warm layers even in summer as temperatures drop sharply after sunset.
Total Budget
50 to 90 euros/day