Dordogne
3
Day Itinerary •
France
The Dordogne is the most beautiful river valley in France and one of the most extraordinary travel destinations in Europe. The extraordinary golden stone villages perched above the river loops, the prehistoric cave paintings that changed our understanding of human history, the medieval chateaux on every cliff and the extraordinary food culture of foie gras, walnuts, black truffles and confit duck make it a region of extraordinary richness. This 3-day route covers the hidden Dordogne. The extraordinary medieval town of Sarlat, the finest prehistoric site in Europe at Lascaux where paintings 17,000 years old still glow on the cave walls, the extraordinary clifftop villages of Beynac and La Roque-Gageac, and the greatest concentration of prehistoric sites in the world in the Vezere valley.
Best Time To Visit
May to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Bordeaux (BOD) or Bergerac (EGC)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 90 to 150 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
SARLAT AND THE DORDOGNE RIVER
MORNING
SARLAT-LA-CANEDA, THE FINEST MEDIEVAL TOWN IN FRANCE
Sarlat is the most perfectly preserved medieval town in France, an extraordinary labyrinth of golden limestone streets, Renaissance mansions and Gothic churches entirely enclosed within its medieval walls. The Saturday market is the finest in the Dordogne, filling the entire old town with foie gras, black truffles, walnuts, cheeses and local produce. The Cathedrale Saint-Sacerdos and the extraordinary Lanterne des Morts (the only funerary lantern of its type in France) are extraordinary. Walk the streets before 9am when the market traders are setting up for the finest light. Drive: 30 min drive to river
MIDDAY
BEYNAC AND LA ROQUE-GAGEAC, THE RIVER CLIFF VILLAGES
The Dordogne river below Sarlat contains the most extraordinary concentration of clifftop medieval villages in France. Beynac-et-Cazenac is a perfect medieval village below an extraordinary 12th-century chateau on a sheer cliff above the river, one of the most dramatic castle settings in France. La Roque-Gageac is built directly into a limestone cliff face above the river, its troglodyte village visible above the rooftops. Both are among the most beautiful villages in France. Drive: 30 min canoe on river
AFTERNOON
CANOEING THE DORDOGNE RIVER
The most extraordinary way to experience the Dordogne is from the river itself. Several local companies hire canoes and kayaks from Vitrac to La Roque-Gageac, a 10km stretch passing below the cliffs of Beynac and Castelnaud. The chateaux and villages seen from the river are extraordinary. A half-day canoe hire costs approx 15 euros per person and the current does most of the work.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Chateau de Castelnaud opposite Beynac across the river is the finest medieval fortress in the Dordogne, with an extraordinary collection of medieval siege weapons including trebuchets. The view from the battlements over the Dordogne valley is extraordinary. Entry approx 11 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Marché de Sarlat Eat breakfast from the market stalls. Walnut cake, foie gras on toast and coffee. The most extraordinary morning meal. | Lunch: Le Grand Bleu, Sarlat The finest restaurant in Sarlat. Extraordinary Perigord cuisine with local foie gras, truffles and duck. Book ahead. | Dinner: La Belle Etoile, La Roque-Gageac Outstanding restaurant in the cliff village with views over the river. Local confit and Bergerac wine.
DAY 2
LASCAUX AND THE VEZERE VALLEY
MORNING
LASCAUX IV, THE GREATEST PREHISTORIC ART IN THE WORLD
The caves of Lascaux contain the most extraordinary prehistoric paintings in the world, 17,000-year-old depictions of horses, bulls and deer painted with extraordinary skill and colour. The original caves were closed in 1963 when visitor breath was destroying the paintings. Lascaux IV, opened in 2016, is an extraordinary full-scale replica using the most advanced digital technology, giving a far more immersive experience than any other prehistoric site. Entry approx 22 euros. Book well in advance. Drive: 15 min drive to Font-de-Gaume
MIDDAY
FONT-DE-GAUME, THE LAST ORIGINAL PAINTED CAVE OPEN TO VISITORS
Font-de-Gaume near Les Eyzies is the most extraordinary and precious prehistoric site in the Dordogne. The only painted cave still open to the public in France with original polychrome paintings from 17,000 BC. The extraordinary bison, mammoth and reindeer are painted in extraordinary detail with the contours of the rock used to create three-dimensional forms. Entry approx 11 euros and limited to 180 visitors per day. Book months in advance. Drive: 10 min drive to Les Eyzies
AFTERNOON
LES EYZIES, THE CAPITAL OF PREHISTORY
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac is the world capital of prehistoric sites, with more caves and rock shelters per square kilometre than anywhere else on earth. The Musee National de la Prehistoire is one of the finest prehistoric museums in the world, built into the cliff face below a reconstructed Cro-Magnon figure surveying the valley. Entry approx 6 euros. The town also has the extraordinary Abri du Cap Blanc with extraordinary animal sculptures carved directly into the rock wall.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Gouffre de Proumeyssac near Le Bugue is an extraordinary underground cave of extraordinary stalactite formations, visited in an extraordinary aerial gondola descent into the vast underground chamber. Entry approx 10 euros and one of the finest cave experiences in France.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Montignac Coffee and walnut bread in the village near Lascaux. Arrive before the museum opens. | Lunch: Restaurant du Musee, Les Eyzies Simple traditional restaurant near the prehistory museum. Local trout, duck and Bergerac rouge. | Dinner: Auberge de la Vezere, Castel-Merle Outstanding traditional restaurant in the valley. Confit de canard and Dordogne walnut cake.
DAY 3
PERIGORD FOOD CULTURE
MORNING
A FOIE GRAS FARM VISIT IN THE PERIGORD
The Dordogne produces more foie gras per square kilometre than anywhere else in France. Several small family farms offer extraordinary visits showing the entire production from farm to jar. The Ferme de Biorne near Sarlat and the Ferme Combet near Daglan both offer excellent morning visits and direct sales at farm prices. The terrines, pates and preserved duck sold directly from the farm are extraordinary value. Drive: 30 min drive to truffle country
MIDDAY
SORGES, THE BLACK TRUFFLE CAPITAL OF FRANCE
Sorges is a small village north of Perigueux that calls itself the truffle capital of France, an extraordinary claim with some justification. The Ecomusee de la Truffe explains the extraordinary biology and culture of the black Perigord truffle (Tuber melanosporum) with remarkable depth. The extraordinary truffle market in January draws buyers from across the world. The surrounding oak forests are dotted with truffle dogs and their owners from November to March. Drive: 30 min drive to Bergerac
AFTERNOON
BERGERAC AND THE WINES OF THE DORDOGNE
Bergerac is an extraordinary small town on the Dordogne whose wines are largely unknown despite being the direct neighbours of the Saint-Emilion appellation. The Maison des Vins de Bergerac offers extraordinary tastings of the Bergerac, Monbazillac and Montravel appellations. The extraordinary sweet wine of Monbazillac, produced from botrytis-infected grapes like Sauternes but at a fraction of the price, is one of the finest hidden wines in France.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Chateau de Monbazillac above Bergerac is one of the finest Renaissance chateaux in the Dordogne, surrounded by the famous Monbazillac sweet wine vineyards. The chateau contains a small museum of Protestant history (the region was a Huguenot stronghold). Entry approx 8 euros and the views over the Bergerac vineyards are extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Marche de Perigueux The Saturday morning market in Perigueux is the finest in the Perigord Blanc. Coffee and local produce. | Lunch: Ferme Auberge near Sarlat Lunch on a working duck farm. All-inclusive traditional Perigord menu. Duck in every form. | Dinner: L'Imparfait, Bergerac Outstanding traditional Bergerac restaurant. Local confit, foie gras and the finest Monbazillac.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Sarlat, Nights 1 and 3 Hotel de Selves, a beautiful 19th-century hotel in the old town. Approx 90 to 150 euros per night. Vezere valley, Night 2 Chateau hotel or auberge near Les Eyzies. Approx 80 to 140 euros per night. Budget Option Sarlat: Chambre d'hote from approx 55 euros. Montignac: Hotel de la Grotte from approx 60 euros.
Top Tips
1. Font-de-Gaume must be booked months ahead. Only 180 visitors per day. Do this first.
2. Sarlat Saturday market starts filling by 8am. Arrive early for the best produce and empty streets.
3. The Dordogne river canoe from Vitrac to La Roque-Gageac is the finest 2-hour experience in the valley.
4. Black Perigord truffle season peaks January to February. The Sorges market is extraordinary in winter.
5. Foie gras bought directly from farms is a fraction of the price in Paris. Visit the morning before leaving.
6. Monbazillac sweet wine is Sauternes quality at a quarter of the price. Buy it directly from the chateau.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day