Chiapas
5
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Five days in Chiapas gives you the full extraordinary depth of Mexico's most biodiverse and culturally rich state. Beyond Palenque and the Chamula ceremony lie the extraordinary Mayan fortress at Tonina, the cloud forest quetzals of El Triunfo biosphere reserve, the Lacandon jungle communities near the Guatemala border and the finest waterfall in southern Mexico at El Chiflón. This route covers the complete extraordinary range of Chiapas from the lowland jungle archaeology of Palenque and Tonina to the highland indigenous culture of San Cristobal, the river canyon of the Sumidero, the multicoloured Montebello lakes and the extraordinary cloud forest of the Sierra Madre. Five days in the state that more than any other rewards slow and thorough exploration.
Best Time To Visit
November to April
Getting There
Fly into Tuxtla Gutierrez (TGZ) or ADO from Mexico City
Getting Around
ADO bus, colectivos, hired driver for remote sites
Budget Per Day
Approx 45 to 165 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate, jungle and highland walking
DAY 1
PALENQUE
MORNING
PALENQUE ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE, THE FINEST MAYA JUNGLE RUINS
Palenque is the most atmospheric Mayan archaeological site in Mexico, its extraordinary temples and palaces emerging from dense rainforest with howler monkeys calling from the canopy above. The Temple of the Inscriptions contains the extraordinary jade-masked sarcophagus of King Pakal, discovered in 1952 after 1,300 years sealed underground. The Palace complex with its unique astronomic tower is extraordinary. Entry approx 90 pesos. Arrive at 8am opening. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
MISOL-HA WATERFALL AND THE CAVE BEHIND THE CASCADE
The Misol-Ha waterfall 20km from Palenque drops 35 metres from a jungle cliff into a circular pool, and a walkway behind the curtain of falling water leads into an extraordinary cave system with pools and stalactites. The surrounding rainforest is extraordinary for birds including toucans, trogons and parrots. Entry approx 50 pesos. The cool mist behind the falls is extraordinary on a hot Chiapas afternoon. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
AGUA AZUL, THE TURQUOISE CASCADES OF THE CHIAPAS JUNGLE
The Agua Azul cascades are among the most extraordinary waterfalls in Mexico, a series of travertine terraces creating pools of extraordinary turquoise water in primary rainforest. The colour, caused by dissolved limestone, ranges from pale jade to deep teal depending on the season. Swimming in the extraordinary natural pools is permitted. Entry approx 50 pesos. Best light is in the afternoon.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cascada El Calvario near Palenque is a hidden waterfall in the jungle reached by a 40-minute walk from the town along an unmarked trail through cacao and vanilla plantations. Almost entirely unknown to tourists, the cascade drops into an extraordinary natural pool surrounded by orchids and bromeliads. Local guides available in Palenque market for approx 200 pesos. The orchids are extraordinary from February to April.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Palenque town market Extraordinary tamales chiapanecos and black bean tlayudas from the market stalls before 8am. | Lunch: El Huachinango Feliz, Palenque Outstanding fresh river fish and Chiapanecan cuisine near the archaeological zone. | Dinner: Restaurant Maya, Palenque The finest traditional Chiapanecan food in town. Extraordinary cochito horneado roast pork.
DAY 2
SAN CRISTOBAL
MORNING
SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS, THE HIGHLAND COLONIAL CITY
San Cristobal de las Casas at 2,200 metres in the Chiapas highlands is the most extraordinary colonial and indigenous city in southern Mexico. The cobblestone streets, coloured facades and extraordinary textile market where Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya women sell hand-woven huipiles are unlike anywhere else in the country. The Cathedral of San Cristobal and the extraordinary Church of Santo Domingo are both remarkable. Entry to churches free. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN JUAN CHAMULA AND THE EXTRAORDINARY SYNCRETIC MAYA CHURCH
The Tzotzil Maya village of San Juan Chamula 10km from San Cristobal is one of the most extraordinary autonomous indigenous communities in Mexico. The church contains no pews and no priest. Pine needles cover the floor. Hundreds of candles burn before colonial saints reinterpreted as Maya deities. Local shamans conduct healing ceremonies with Coca-Cola, copal incense and live chickens. Photography strictly forbidden inside. Entry approx 20 pesos. Drive/Travel: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
ZINACANTAN AND THE FLOWER-WEAVING TZOTZIL VILLAGE
The Tzotzil village of Zinacantan adjacent to Chamula is renowned for its extraordinary flower-embroidered textiles, the women weaving extraordinary pink and purple designs on traditional backstrap looms in family workshops open to visitors. The village church is covered in extraordinary fresh flowers changed weekly. The view over the highland valley from the church is extraordinary. Entry free, textile demonstration approx 30 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Grutas de Rancho Nuevo, a cave system 10km from San Cristobal, is one of the most extraordinary and least visited natural sites in the Chiapas highlands, its chambers filled with extraordinary stalactites and stalagmites and an underground river navigable by small boat. The cave is within the cloud forest of the Rancho Nuevo National Park. Entry approx 100 pesos including guide. The cloud forest walk above the cave is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Mercado Municipal, San Cristobal Extraordinary pozol corn drink and tamales de chipilín from the finest market breakfast in the highlands. | Lunch: TierrAdentro, San Cristobal Outstanding modern Chiapanecan cuisine in a beautiful courtyard. Extraordinary grasshopper tacos and local coffee. | Dinner: La Viña de Bacco, San Cristobal The finest wine and food pairing in San Cristobal. Outstanding Chiapanecan cheeses and beef.
DAY 3
CANON DEL SUMIDERO
MORNING
CANON DEL SUMIDERO, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CANYON IN MEXICO
The Canon del Sumidero is a 1,000-metre deep canyon carved by the Grijalva river through vertical limestone walls, one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in Mexico. The boat tour through the canyon passes extraordinary cliff faces, a colony of crocodiles, spider monkeys in the vegetation and the extraordinary Christmas Tree waterfall where moss creates the shape of a green pyramid on the cliff face. Boat tours from Chiapa de Corzo approx 200 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
CHIAPA DE CORZO, THE FINEST COLONIAL TOWN IN CENTRAL CHIAPAS
Chiapa de Corzo is the most extraordinary small colonial town in central Chiapas, its magnificent La Pila octagonal fountain from 1562 considered the oldest civil monument in continuous use in the Americas. The extraordinary Museo de la Laca documents the extraordinary lacquerwork tradition unique to this town. The marimba music in the plaza on Sunday
AFTERNOON
LAGOS DE MONTEBELLO, THE MULTICOLOURED LAKES OF THE CHIAPAS JUNGLE
The Lagos de Montebello national park near the Guatemala border contains 59 lakes of extraordinary colours ranging from emerald to cobalt blue to wine red, their shades determined by different mineral compositions. The extraordinary jungle road between the lakes, the Maya ruins of Chinkultic above Lago Tepancuapan and the complete silence of the forest are remarkable. Entry approx 50 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cascadas El Chiflón near Comitan is the most extraordinary waterfall complex in Chiapas, a series of five cascades culminating in the Velo de Novia, a 120-metre bridal veil fall into an extraordinary turquoise pool. Far less visited than Agua Azul. Entry approx 80 pesos. The trail along the river through cloud forest to the upper falls is 3km and extraordinary. Accessible by colectivo from Comitan.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Chiapa de Corzo waterfront Extraordinary cochito horneado and black bean tamales at the riverside food stalls before the boat. | Lunch: Restaurant on the canyon boat Simple food available on the longer canyon tours. Buy provisions at Chiapa de Corzo market. | Dinner: Casa del Pan Papalotl, San Cristobal The finest vegetarian and Chiapanecan food in the city. Extraordinary local mushrooms and beans.
DAY 4
TONINA AND THE BORDER JUNGLE
MORNING
TONINA, THE EXTRAORDINARY MAYAN FORTRESS CITY OF THE JUNGLE
Tonina near Ocosingo is the most extraordinary and least visited major Mayan site in Chiapas, its extraordinary stepped pyramid rising 9 levels to 75 metres, taller than any structure at Palenque or Chichen Itza. The extraordinary sculpted panels of captive kings, the stucco friezes and the labyrinthine palace interior are remarkable. The site is set in extraordinary highland pasture completely unlike the jungle sites. Entry approx 90 pesos. Drive/Travel: 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
OCOSINGO AND THE EXTRAORDINARY TZELTAL MARKET TOWN
Ocosingo is the most extraordinary and authentic market town in the Chiapas highlands, its Sunday market drawing Tzeltal Maya communities from across the surrounding mountains to trade extraordinary textiles, medicinal plants, live animals and homemade chicha corn beer. The town was at the centre of the 1994 Zapatista uprising and the extraordinary murals throughout the town record this history. Entry free. Drive/Travel: 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
LAGUNAS DE MONTEBELLO AND THE GUATEMALA BORDER JUNGLE
The drive south from San Cristobal to the Montebello lakes passes through extraordinary pine and oak highland forest before descending into the jungle of the Lacandona borderland. The extraordinary Chinkultic Mayan ruins above the lakes, accessible by a short jungle trail, give the finest views over the multicoloured lake system. The border crossing into Guatemala at La Mesilla is a remarkable cultural junction.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Lacandona jungle community of Naha, 4 hours from Palenque in the extraordinary lowland rainforest near the Guatemala border, is one of the last surviving Lacandon Maya communities in Mexico. The extraordinary Lacandon people, who maintained their pre-Columbian way of life until the 1970s, live in the jungle around Lake Naha and welcome visitors through a community tourism programme. Contact through Palenque tourist office. Overnight stays available approx 300 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Ocosingo market stalls The finest market breakfast in Chiapas. Extraordinary Tzeltal tamales and local cheese from the Sunday market. | Lunch: Comedor in Tonina village Simple local food near the extraordinary archaeological site. Outstanding black bean and local beef. | Dinner: El Fogon de Jovel, San Cristobal The finest traditional Chiapanecan dinner. Extraordinary cochito horneado and local cheese. Book ahead.
DAY 5
EL TRIUNFO AND EL CHIFLÓN
MORNING
EL TRIUNFO BIOSPHERE RESERVE, CLOUD FOREST AND QUETZALS
The El Triunfo biosphere reserve in the Sierra Madre de Chiapas is the finest cloud forest birdwatching destination in Mexico, home to the resplendent quetzal, the horned guan and over 330 species. The extraordinary walk through primary cloud forest dripping with bromeliads, orchids and tree ferns to the highland plateau is among the finest nature experiences in Mexico. Entry approx 200 pesos. Access from Jaltenango, 4 hours from San Cristobal. Drive/Travel: 3 hours drive
MIDDAY
COMITAN DE DOMINGUEZ AND THE BORDER CITY CHARM
Comitan is the most extraordinary colonial city in the southern Chiapas highlands, its extraordinary Zocalo, the Museo Arqueologico de Comitan with its extraordinary Mayan collection and the extraordinary viewpoint over the Guatemala highlands making it the finest base for the Lagos de Montebello and El Chiflón. The Saturday market is the finest in southern Chiapas. Entry to museum approx 40 pesos. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
EL CHIFLÓN WATERFALLS AND THE VELO DE NOVIA CASCADE
The El Chiflón waterfall complex is the most extraordinary in Chiapas, its five cascades culminating in the 120-metre Velo de Novia bridal veil fall into an extraordinary turquoise pool. The trail through cloud forest to the upper falls passes extraordinary orchids and the finest birdwatching in the Sierra Madre foothills. Entry approx 80 pesos. The turquoise colour is most intense in the dry season from November to May.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Mayan site of Tenam Puente near Comitan is one of the finest and least visited in Chiapas, its extraordinary ball court, acropolis and residential platforms set on a hilltop above the valley with extraordinary views over the Guatemalan highlands. Almost entirely free of visitors. Entry approx 50 pesos. The cloud forest around the site is extraordinary for birdwatching at dawn. Local colectivo from Comitan approx 20 pesos.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Comitan market Extraordinary pozol and local tamales at the Saturday market before the El Triunfo departure. | Lunch: El Triunfo field station Simple food at the biosphere reserve field station. Bring provisions from Comitan. | Dinner: Comitan restaurant Return to the finest colonial city in southern Chiapas for the extraordinary final dinner.
Where To Stay
Palenque, Night 1 Hotel Misol-Ha or Chan Kah Resort Village. Approx 40 to 100 USD. San Cristobal, Nights 2 to 4 Hotel Bo or Casa Mexicana. Approx 50 to 150 USD per night. Comitan, Night 5 Hotel Real Balun Canan. Approx 35 to 70 USD. Good base for El Chiflón and Montebello.
Top Tips
1. Tonina is 1.5 hours from San Cristobal through extraordinary highland scenery. Go on Sunday for market.
2. El Triunfo quetzal season is March to May. Book the biosphere entry permit weeks ahead.
3. El Chiflón is finest in dry season. The Velo de Novia pool is swimmable from November to April.
4. Lagos de Montebello: rent a horse at the park entrance for 100 pesos to reach the most remote lakes.
5. Palenque jungle: mosquito repellent essential. The ruins are in primary rainforest. Arrive at opening.
6. Chiapa de Corzo Sunday marimba in the plaza is free and extraordinary. Arrive before 2pm.
Total Budget
45 to 160 USD/day