Chiapas
3
Day Itinerary •
Mexico
Three days in Chiapas reveal the most extraordinary combination of Mayan archaeology, indigenous culture and natural scenery in Mexico. The jungle temples of Palenque emerging from rainforest, the syncretic Maya ceremonies of San Juan Chamula, the 1,000-metre Canon del Sumidero and the turquoise waterfalls of Agua Azul and Misol-Ha are all within reach of a route through Mexico's most biodiverse state. This route moves from the extraordinary lowland jungle of Palenque through the colonial highland city of San Cristobal and its surrounding Tzotzil Maya villages before descending to the extraordinary river canyon of the Sumidero and the multicoloured lakes of Montebello near the Guatemala border. Three days that reveal why Chiapas is the most extraordinary state in Mexico.
Best Time To Visit
November to April
Getting There
Fly into Tuxtla Gutierrez (TGZ) or ADO from Mexico City
Getting Around
ADO bus between cities, colectivos for villages
Budget Per Day
Approx 45 to 150 USD per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, jungle walking
DAY 1
PALENQUE
MORNING
PALENQUE ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE, THE FINEST MAYA JUNGLE RUINS
Palenque is the most atmospheric Mayan archaeological site in Mexico, its extraordinary temples and palaces emerging from dense rainforest with howler monkeys calling from the canopy above. The Temple of the Inscriptions contains the extraordinary jade-masked sarcophagus of King Pakal, discovered in 1952 after 1,300 years sealed underground. The Palace complex with its unique astronomic tower is extraordinary. Entry approx 90 pesos. Arrive at 8am opening. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
MISOL-HA WATERFALL AND THE CAVE BEHIND THE CASCADE
The Misol-Ha waterfall 20km from Palenque drops 35 metres from a jungle cliff into a circular pool, and a walkway behind the curtain of falling water leads into an extraordinary cave system with pools and stalactites. The surrounding rainforest is extraordinary for birds including toucans, trogons and parrots. Entry approx 50 pesos. The cool mist behind the falls is extraordinary on a hot Chiapas afternoon. Drive/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
AGUA AZUL, THE TURQUOISE CASCADES OF THE CHIAPAS JUNGLE
The Agua Azul cascades are among the most extraordinary waterfalls in Mexico, a series of travertine terraces creating pools of extraordinary turquoise water in primary rainforest. The colour, caused by dissolved limestone, ranges from pale jade to deep teal depending on the season. Swimming in the extraordinary natural pools is permitted. Entry approx 50 pesos. Best light is in the afternoon.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cascada El Calvario near Palenque is a hidden waterfall in the jungle reached by a 40-minute walk from the town along an unmarked trail through cacao and vanilla plantations. Almost entirely unknown to tourists, the cascade drops into an extraordinary natural pool surrounded by orchids and bromeliads. Local guides available in Palenque market for approx 200 pesos. The orchids are extraordinary from February to April.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Palenque town market Extraordinary tamales chiapanecos and black bean tlayudas from the market stalls before 8am. | Lunch: El Huachinango Feliz, Palenque Outstanding fresh river fish and Chiapanecan cuisine near the archaeological zone. | Dinner: Restaurant Maya, Palenque The finest traditional Chiapanecan food in town. Extraordinary cochito horneado roast pork.
DAY 2
SAN CRISTOBAL
MORNING
SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS, THE HIGHLAND COLONIAL CITY
San Cristobal de las Casas at 2,200 metres in the Chiapas highlands is the most extraordinary colonial and indigenous city in southern Mexico. The cobblestone streets, coloured facades and extraordinary textile market where Tzotzil and Tzeltal Maya women sell hand-woven huipiles are unlike anywhere else in the country. The Cathedral of San Cristobal and the extraordinary Church of Santo Domingo are both remarkable. Entry to churches free. Drive/Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SAN JUAN CHAMULA AND THE EXTRAORDINARY SYNCRETIC MAYA CHURCH
The Tzotzil Maya village of San Juan Chamula 10km from San Cristobal is one of the most extraordinary autonomous indigenous communities in Mexico. The church contains no pews and no priest. Pine needles cover the floor. Hundreds of candles burn before colonial saints reinterpreted as Maya deities. Local shamans conduct healing ceremonies with Coca-Cola, copal incense and live chickens. Photography strictly forbidden inside. Entry approx 20 pesos. Drive/Travel: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
ZINACANTAN AND THE FLOWER-WEAVING TZOTZIL VILLAGE
The Tzotzil village of Zinacantan adjacent to Chamula is renowned for its extraordinary flower-embroidered textiles, the women weaving extraordinary pink and purple designs on traditional backstrap looms in family workshops open to visitors. The village church is covered in extraordinary fresh flowers changed weekly. The view over the highland valley from the church is extraordinary. Entry free, textile demonstration approx 30 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Grutas de Rancho Nuevo, a cave system 10km from San Cristobal, is one of the most extraordinary and least visited natural sites in the Chiapas highlands, its chambers filled with extraordinary stalactites and stalagmites and an underground river navigable by small boat. The cave is within the cloud forest of the Rancho Nuevo National Park. Entry approx 100 pesos including guide. The cloud forest walk above the cave is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Mercado Municipal, San Cristobal Extraordinary pozol corn drink and tamales de chipilín from the finest market breakfast in the highlands. | Lunch: TierrAdentro, San Cristobal Outstanding modern Chiapanecan cuisine in a beautiful courtyard. Extraordinary grasshopper tacos and local coffee. | Dinner: La Viña de Bacco, San Cristobal The finest wine and food pairing in San Cristobal. Outstanding Chiapanecan cheeses and beef.
DAY 3
CANON DEL SUMIDERO
MORNING
CANON DEL SUMIDERO, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CANYON IN MEXICO
The Canon del Sumidero is a 1,000-metre deep canyon carved by the Grijalva river through vertical limestone walls, one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in Mexico. The boat tour through the canyon passes extraordinary cliff faces, a colony of crocodiles, spider monkeys in the vegetation and the extraordinary Christmas Tree waterfall where moss creates the shape of a green pyramid on the cliff face. Boat tours from Chiapa de Corzo approx 200 pesos. Drive/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
CHIAPA DE CORZO, THE FINEST COLONIAL TOWN IN CENTRAL CHIAPAS
Chiapa de Corzo is the most extraordinary small colonial town in central Chiapas, its magnificent La Pila octagonal fountain from 1562 considered the oldest civil monument in continuous use in the Americas. The extraordinary Museo de la Laca documents the extraordinary lacquerwork tradition unique to this town. The marimba music in the plaza on Sunday
AFTERNOON
LAGOS DE MONTEBELLO, THE MULTICOLOURED LAKES OF THE CHIAPAS JUNGLE
The Lagos de Montebello national park near the Guatemala border contains 59 lakes of extraordinary colours ranging from emerald to cobalt blue to wine red, their shades determined by different mineral compositions. The extraordinary jungle road between the lakes, the Maya ruins of Chinkultic above Lago Tepancuapan and the complete silence of the forest are remarkable. Entry approx 50 pesos.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cascadas El Chiflón near Comitan is the most extraordinary waterfall complex in Chiapas, a series of five cascades culminating in the Velo de Novia, a 120-metre bridal veil fall into an extraordinary turquoise pool. Far less visited than Agua Azul. Entry approx 80 pesos. The trail along the river through cloud forest to the upper falls is 3km and extraordinary. Accessible by colectivo from Comitan.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Chiapa de Corzo waterfront Extraordinary cochito horneado and black bean tamales at the riverside food stalls before the boat. | Lunch: Restaurant on the canyon boat Simple food available on the longer canyon tours. Buy provisions at Chiapa de Corzo market. | Dinner: Casa del Pan Papalotl, San Cristobal The finest vegetarian and Chiapanecan food in the city. Extraordinary local mushrooms and beans.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Palenque, Night 1 Hotel Misol-Ha or Chan Kah Resort Village. Approx 40 to 100 USD per night. San Cristobal, Nights 2 to 3 Hotel Bo or Casa Mexicana. Approx 50 to 150 USD per night. Budget Option Hostal Bekach, Palenque or Puerta Vieja Hostel, San Cristobal. Approx 12 to 25 USD.
Top Tips
1. Palenque at 8am opening: the jungle mist and howler monkeys before the crowds is extraordinary.
2. San Juan Chamula: no photography inside the church under any circumstances. Confiscation is enforced.
3. Agua Azul is safest to swim in the dry season. In wet season currents are dangerous. Check locally.
4. Book the Canon del Sumidero boat tour through your hotel the evening before. Departs 9am sharp.
5. San Cristobal is cold at night year round at 2,200m. Bring a warm layer for evenings.
6. The colectivo to Chamula from San Cristobal market leaves when full. Bargain for the return fare.
Total Budget
45 to 145 USD/day