Chefchaouen Rif
5
Day Itinerary •
Morocco
Five days in Chefchaouen and the Rif Mountains takes you deep into the most extraordinary and least-visited mountain landscape in Morocco. The blue city of Chefchaouen, founded in 1471 by Andalusian refugees and painted every shade of blue and white, is the most visually extraordinary town in Morocco. The Rif Mountains behind it contain the finest cedar forests in North Africa and the remarkable Berber villages of the Talassemtane National Park. This route covers the full northern Morocco circuit. Chefchaouen and its extraordinary medina and the Spanish mosque viewpoint, the Rif mountain hike to the Ras el-Maa waterfall, the remarkable walled city of Tetouan with its Andalusian medina, the extraordinary Mediterranean coast at Al Hoceima and the ancient Phoenician city of Lixus near Larache.
Best Time To Visit
March to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Tangier (TNG) or Fes (FEZ)
Getting Around
Walking in medinas, CTM bus or rental car between cities
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 120 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, some mountain hiking
DAY 1
CHEFCHAOUEN BLUE MEDINA
MORNING
THE BLUE MEDINA OF CHEFCHAOUEN AT DAWN
Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 by Andalusian and Jewish refugees who painted every surface in the extraordinary shades of blue that define the city today. The medina is the most visually extraordinary in Morocco, its cobbled lanes, arched passages and flower-filled staircases all washed in indigo, cerulean and sky blue. The Plaza Uta el-Hammam at the centre has the most beautiful cafe terraces in northern Morocco. Walk alone at dawn for the finest experience. Free. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
THE SPANISH MOSQUE VIEWPOINT
The Spanish mosque on the hill above the medina, built during the Spanish protectorate and never used as a mosque, gives the finest aerial view of Chefchaouen. The extraordinary panorama of the blue city spilling down the hillside between the two peaks of the Rif Mountains is the most photographed view in northern Morocco. The walk up takes about 20 minutes through the cedar forest and is most extraordinary at dusk. Free. Drive: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE CHEFCHAOUEN MEDINA SOUK AND CRAFTS
The Chefchaouen medina has the most remarkable artisan quarter in northern Morocco, its extraordinary weavers, leatherworkers and djellaba tailors working in the same street workshops they have occupied for centuries. The remarkable wool blankets, the extraordinary striped Rif mountain fabrics and the handmade leather babouches are all outstanding. The evening in the Plaza Uta el-Hammam with the lit fountain and the extraordinary atmosphere is unmissable. Free.
š HIDDEN GEM
The quartier Al Andalus in the lower medina, away from the main tourist lanes, is the most authentic and quietest part of Chefchaouen. The extraordinary blue houses here have no souvenir shops and the residents live entirely normally in the most beautiful painted streets in Morocco. Walk here at any hour. Free.
š½ WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast Moroccan breakfast on the riad terrace above the blue medina lanes. | Lunch: Plaza Uta el-Hammam cafe Kefta tagine and fresh goat cheese in the most beautiful square in the north. | Dinner: Restaurant Tissemane The finest restaurant in Chefchaouen. Extraordinary Rif mountain cuisine.
DAY 2
RIF MOUNTAINS AND TALASSEMTANE
MORNING
RAS EL-MAA WATERFALL AND THE RIF MOUNTAIN WALK
The Ras el-Maa waterfall at the edge of the medina is the source of the stream that has supplied Chefchaouen since its founding. The walk up from the waterfall into the Rif Mountains above the city climbs through extraordinary cedar and oak forest to a ridge with the finest panoramic view of the Rif range. The mountain path continues to the Spanish mosque from above, giving an extraordinary circuit back to the medina. Free. Drive: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
THE TALASSEMTANE NATIONAL PARK CEDAR FOREST
The Talassemtane National Park east of Chefchaouen contains the largest and finest cedar forest in Morocco, its extraordinary ancient trees home to the last population of Barbary macaques in the country. The forest at Ain Tissimane has remarkable walking trails through the extraordinary cedar canopy. The macaques are often visible at the roadside. The Rif Mountains scenery throughout the park is outstanding. Entry free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE VILLAGE OF AIN TISSIMANE AND THE BERBER CULTURE
The Berber villages of the Talassemtane plateau are among the most authentic and least visited in Morocco. The remarkable stone and earth houses, the extraordinary hospitality and the remarkable traditional dress of the Rif Berber women are all outstanding. The village cooperative sells extraordinary locally woven Rif fabrics and the remarkable argan and honey products of the mountain. Tea with a Rif family is the finest hour of the journey. Free.
š HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary bridge of God, the natural rock arch of Pont de Dieu in the Rif Mountains above Chefchaouen, is the most remarkable natural formation in northern Morocco. The walk from the road takes about 2 hours through extraordinary cedar forest. Almost entirely unvisited. Free.
š½ WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Chefchaouen Early start for the mountain walk. Full Moroccan breakfast. | Lunch: Mountain tea house, Rif trail Simple Berber lunch on the mountain: flatbread, olive oil and cheese. | Dinner: Chefchaouen medina restaurant Return to the blue city for evening kefta and fresh Rif mountain herbs.
DAY 3
TETOUAN ANDALUSIAN CITY
MORNING
TETOUAN, THE ANDALUSIAN CITY OF THE NORTH
Tetouan has the finest Andalusian medina in Morocco, its extraordinary white-washed houses, tiled fountains and the remarkable Moorish arches of the souks reflecting the culture of the Muslims and Jews expelled from Spain in 1492. The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and far less visited than Fes or Marrakech. The extraordinary Place Hassan II with its Royal Palace facade and the remarkable Bab Rouah gate are outstanding. Entry free. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
THE TETOUAN MUSEUM OF MOROCCAN ARTS
The Tetouan Museum of Moroccan Arts in the extraordinary 19th-century riad of Dar Batha houses the finest collection of northern Moroccan crafts in the country. The remarkable Tetouan embroidery, the extraordinary musical instruments, the fine ceramics and the outstanding collection of traditional Andalusian-Moroccan dress are all outstanding. The museum building itself is among the finest examples of northern Moroccan domestic architecture. Entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE TETOUAN CRAFTS MEDINA AND THE JEWISH QUARTER
Tetouan has the finest crafts production in northern Morocco, its extraordinary carpet weavers, embroiderers and zellige tile workshops producing work of a quality and authenticity rarely found in the more tourist-dominated southern cities. The mellah, the old Jewish quarter, has remarkable balconied houses and the extraordinary former synagogue. The medina market on Friday morning is the finest in the north. Free.
š HIDDEN GEM
The ancient Phoenician city of Tamuda, 5km from Tetouan on the Martil river, is one of the most extraordinary and least visited ancient sites in northern Morocco. The remarkable Roman fort built over the Phoenician ruins and the extraordinary finds in the Tetouan museum make it remarkable context for the city above. Entry free.
š½ WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Chefchaouen Final blue city breakfast before the drive to Tetouan. | Lunch: Medina restaurant, Tetouan Extraordinary Andalusian-Moroccan cuisine in the UNESCO medina. | Dinner: Tetouan riad First night in the Andalusian city. Lamb couscous and Rif mountain wine.
DAY 4
MEDITERRANEAN COAST AND AL HOCEIMA
MORNING
THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST ROAD TO AL HOCEIMA
drive The drive from Tetouan east along the Mediterranean coast of the Rif is one of the finest in Morocco, the road cutting through extraordinary mountain scenery above the turquoise sea. The extraordinary coves of the Al Hoceima National Park, the finest marine national park in Morocco, are visible from the coast road. Stop at the Kalah Iris viewpoint for the most extraordinary view of the Mediterranean below the Rif. Free. Drive: 30 min walk
MIDDAY
AL HOCEIMA NATIONAL PARK AND CALA IRIS
The Al Hoceima National Park has the most extraordinary and least visited coastline in Morocco, its extraordinary limestone cliffs, hidden coves and crystal clear Mediterranean water almost entirely unknown to international visitors. The Cala Iris bay, accessible by a 45-minute walk from the road, is the finest hidden beach in northern Morocco. The extraordinary clarity of the water and the complete absence of development make it unlike anything on the Moroccan coast. Free. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
THE RIF MOUNTAIN VILLAGES OF THE INTERIOR
The interior Rif villages above Al Hoceima are among the most extraordinary and authentic in Morocco, the remarkable earth and stone houses of the Beni Ouriaghel Berber tribe unchanged for centuries. The extraordinary Friday souk at Targuist is the most authentic market in the Rif. The remarkable goat cheese, the extraordinary argan honey and the finest Rif mountain dried herbs are all available at source prices. Free.
š HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary PeƱon de Alhucemas, a small Spanish island 300 metres offshore from Al Hoceima, is the most remarkable geopolitical curiosity on the Moroccan coast. The Spanish fort on the island, visible from the Al Hoceima beach, has been Spanish territory since 1673. The view from the beach toward the island and the Rif mountains behind is extraordinary. Free.
š½ WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riad breakfast, Tetouan Early start for the Mediterranean coast drive. | Lunch: Beach restaurant, Cala Iris Fresh Mediterranean fish at the finest hidden bay on the coast. | Dinner: Al Hoceima seafront Grilled sardines and meze at the finest fishing port on the Moroccan Mediterranean.
DAY 5
LIXUS AND LARACHE
MORNING
LIXUS, THE ANCIENT PHOENICIAN CITY
Lixus, 4km north of Larache, is the extraordinary ancient Phoenician and Roman city set on a hill above the Atlantic Lacus estuary. Founded around 1100 BC, it is among the oldest continuously inhabited sites in Africa. The remarkable Roman theatre, the extraordinary mosaic floors and the garum fish sauce factories that supplied the entire Roman Empire are all outstanding. The extraordinary view over the Atlantic from the hilltop is remarkable. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
LARACHE, THE ATLANTIC FISHING PORT
Larache is the most extraordinary and least visited Atlantic town in Morocco, its remarkable Spanish colonial architecture, the extraordinary Portuguese Kasbah above the port and the remarkable fishing harbour where the blue boats unload the Atlantic catch create a town of genuine character. The Spanish writer Jean Genet is buried in the Spanish Christian cemetery above the town and the extraordinary views from the kasbah walls over the Atlantic are outstanding. Entry free. Drive: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
THE LARACHE MEDINA AND FAREWELL TO THE NORTH
The Larache medina, small and entirely untouristed, has the most remarkable authentic atmosphere of any northern Moroccan medina. The extraordinary fish market, the remarkable souks and the wonderful Spanish-Moroccan hybrid architecture of the covered market hall are all outstanding. A final mint tea on the kasbah walls above the Atlantic as the sun sets over the ocean completes the extraordinary northern Morocco circuit. Free.
š HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Jardins de la Mamora near Larache, a vast cork oak forest stretching along the Atlantic coast, is the largest cork oak forest in the world and is almost entirely unvisited by tourists. The remarkable forest with its extraordinary atmosphere and the wild boar, golden jackals and Barbary deer that live there is outstanding. Free to walk.
š½ WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast, Al Hoceima Early start for the drive to Lixus and the Atlantic. | Lunch: Larache harbour cafe The finest fresh Atlantic sardines, grilled simply with chermoula. | Dinner: Farewell dinner, Larache Final evening in the north. Atlantic fish tagine and mint tea.
Where To Stay
Chefchaouen medina, Nights 1 to 3 Riad inside the blue medina. Approx 50 to 120 euros per night. Tetouan medina, Night 4 Riad in the Andalusian medina. Approx 50 to 100 euros per night. Larache, Night 5 Simple hotel in the Atlantic fishing port. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Chefchaouen at dawn, before any tourists emerge, is the most beautiful hour in northern Morocco.
2. The Spanish mosque viewpoint above the medina gives the finest aerial view of the blue city.
3. The Ras el-Maa waterfall walk is best in spring when the water is at full force from the snowmelt.
4. Tetouan is overlooked by most visitors. The Andalusian medina and crafts museum are outstanding.
5. The Rif mountain villages are extremely hospitable. Accept every tea invitation that is offered.
6. Chefchaouen photographers: the best light is in the early morning before 8am in the blue streets.
Total Budget
60 to 143 euros/day