CastileAndLeon
3
Day Itinerary •
Spain
Castile and Leon is the largest region in the European Union, a vast golden plateau of medieval cathedrals, Romanesque churches, ancient university cities and hilltop castles stretching to every horizon. It contains more UNESCO World Heritage Sites than almost any other region in Spain. This 3-day route focuses on the hidden side of three of Spain's greatest cities. Salamanca's secret university courtyards and carved facades that most visitors walk past, Segovia's extraordinary Roman engineering and forgotten Jewish quarter, and Burgos's stunning Gothic cathedral alongside the completely overlooked medieval monastery where El Cid is buried.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Madrid (MAD) or Valladolid (VLL)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 65 to 100 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
SALAMANCA
MORNING
THE UNIVERSITY OF SALAMANCA, THE HIDDEN COURTYARDS
The University of Salamanca is the oldest university in Spain, founded in 1218, and its buildings contain some of the most extraordinary carved stonework in Europe. Most visitors see only the famous Plateresque facade on the main street. But the interior courtyards are largely unknown: the Patio de las Escuelas Menores contains a magnificent painted ceiling with an extraordinary astrological fresco from the 15th century, rarely mentioned in guidebooks. Find the frog hidden in the facade carving for good luck. Drive: 10 min walk to La Clerecia
MIDDAY
LA CLERECIA AND THE PONTIFICAL UNIVERSITY TOWERS
La Clerecia is a spectacular Baroque Jesuit church and university built over 150 years from 1617. Most visitors walk past without entering. The interior is extraordinary but the real secret is the tower climb: for just 3.75 euros you can ascend the twin baroque towers via an internal staircase for the finest rooftop view over Salamanca's sandstone skyline. Completely unknown and one of the finest city panoramas in Spain. Drive: 10 min walk to Casa de las Conchas
AFTERNOON
THE HIDDEN SALAMANCA MOST VISITORS NEVER FIND
The Casa de las Conchas is covered in 300 carved scallop shells and is free to enter. Inside is a beautiful Gothic courtyard and a public library. Walk to the Convento de San Esteban, a Dominican monastery with an extraordinary Plateresque facade even more elaborate than the university. End at the Plaza Mayor at dusk when the golden sandstone glows in the evening light. Widely considered the finest plaza mayor in Spain.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cielo de Salamanca fresco in the Patio de las Escuelas Menores is one of the most extraordinary and overlooked artworks in Spain. A large painted ceiling showing the night sky with astrological figures, constellations and the signs of the zodiac, painted in the 15th century by Fernando Gallego. Free to see, almost never mentioned, and genuinely breathtaking.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Novelty, Plaza Mayor The oldest cafe in Salamanca, opened in 1905, with a bronze statue of Torrente Ballester on the terrace. Unmissable. | Lunch: Restaurante Victor Gutierrez One Michelin star in the heart of the old town. Modern Castilian cuisine using the finest local produce. Book well ahead. | Dinner: Meson Cervantes, Salamanca Beloved traditional restaurant near the Plaza Mayor. Roast suckling pig, lechazo lamb and local wines since 1930.
DAY 2
SEGOVIA
MORNING
THE ROMAN AQUEDUCT AND WHAT NOBODY SEES BEHIND IT
The Roman Aqueduct of Segovia is one of the finest Roman engineering feats still standing in the world. But almost nobody walks the full 728-metre length from the Plaza del Azoguejo to the point where it enters the city walls. Follow the aqueduct on foot from the viewing square all the way to its source, passing through quiet residential streets where locals hang washing from windows overlooking 2,000-year-old Roman stonework. The end section near the city wall is extraordinary and completely tourist-free. Drive: 15 min walk to Jewish Quarter
MIDDAY
LA JUDERIA, SEGOVIA'S FORGOTTEN JEWISH QUARTER
Segovia had one of the most significant Jewish communities in medieval Spain, expelled in 1492. The old Jewish quarter stretches between the cathedral and the valley below, a labyrinth of narrow alleys, ancient synagogues converted to churches and medieval houses with carved Hebrew inscriptions still visible on doorways. The Corpus Christi church was originally the main synagogue, built in the 13th century. Almost no tourists explore this neighbourhood despite it being one of the best preserved in Spain. Drive: 10 min walk to Alcazar
AFTERNOON
THE ALCAZAR, BEYOND THE TOURIST ROUTE
The Alcazar of Segovia is one of the most dramatic castles in Spain, built on a rocky prow above two river valleys. Most visitors see the main halls and leave. But the throne room contains an extraordinary frieze of 52 consecutive Castilian monarchs circling the entire room. Climb the Torre de Juan II for the finest view over the surrounding countryside. The lower rooms and the moat walk are included in the entry but almost never visited.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Vera Cruz church, a 13-sided Templar church built in 1208 outside the city walls, is one of the most unusual religious buildings in Spain. Walk the 10 minutes from the Alcazar to find it virtually alone on a hillside with extraordinary views of the Alcazar reflected in the valley below. Entry is just 2 euros and it receives almost no visitors despite being extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Bar in Segovia old town Grab coffee near the aqueduct before the morning crowds arrive. The Plaza del Azoguejo bars open at 8am. | Lunch: Meson de Candido, Segovia The most famous restaurant in Segovia, serving cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) since 1905 under the aqueduct. | Dinner: Restaurante Jose Maria, Segovia Segovia's most beloved traditional restaurant. The finest lechazo and cochinillo in the city. Book well ahead.
DAY 3
BURGOS
MORNING
BURGOS CATHEDRAL, BEYOND THE MAIN NAVE
Burgos Cathedral is one of the greatest Gothic buildings in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most visitors see the main nave and leave. But the cathedral contains 19 chapels, each more extraordinary than the last. The Capilla del Condestable is a masterpiece of Isabelline Gothic. The Golden Staircase by Diego de Siloe is one of the finest Renaissance works in Spain. The tomb of El Cid and his wife Jimena is marked on the floor of the crossing. Spend at least 2 hours. Drive: 10 min walk to Monasterio de Las Huelgas
MIDDAY
MONASTERIO DE LAS HUELGAS, THE ROYAL PANTHEON NOBODY VISITS
Just 20 minutes walk from the cathedral, the Monasterio de Las Huelgas is one of the most important medieval monuments in Spain and almost entirely overlooked by visitors. Founded in 1187 as the royal pantheon of Castile, it contains the tombs of 16 Castilian kings and queens. The museum holds the finest collection of medieval royal textiles in Europe, including burial garments from the 12th and 13th centuries in extraordinary condition. Entry approx 6 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Atapuerca
AFTERNOON
ATAPUERCA, WHERE HUMAN HISTORY BEGAN
The Sierra de Atapuerca contains the most important archaeological site in human history. The caves here have yielded human fossils dating back 1.2 million years, the oldest human remains ever found in Western Europe, including Homo antecessor, a previously unknown species discovered here. The UNESCO World Heritage Site has an excellent museum in Burgos and guided tours of the excavation site itself. Book tours in advance as they fill up fast.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cartuja de Miraflores, a Carthusian monastery 3km east of Burgos, contains the most beautiful altarpiece in Spain. An extraordinary gilded retablo by Gil de Siloe, painted in 1496 using the first gold brought back from the Americas. The monastery is still active and entry is free. One of the greatest works of Spanish art and almost nobody knows it exists.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Burgos old town Breakfast near the cathedral before it opens at 9:30am. The casco viejo has several excellent traditional cafes. | Lunch: Restaurante Ojeda, Burgos Burgos's most celebrated traditional restaurant. Morcilla de Burgos (black pudding), roast lamb and excellent Ribera del Duero wines. | Dinner: Casa Ojeda Taberna, Burgos More casual sibling of the famous Ojeda. Excellent tapas, wines and the finest morcilla in the city at honest prices.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Salamanca, Night 1 Hotel Rector, the finest boutique hotel in Salamanca near the university. Approx 120 to 180 euros per night. Segovia, Night 2 Parador de Segovia, modern parador with the finest panoramic view of the aqueduct and city. Approx 130 to 200 euros. Budget Option Salamanca: Hostal Concejo from approx 45 euros. Segovia: Hotel Don Jaime from approx 55 euros.
Top Tips
1. Find the hidden frog on the University of Salamanca facade, tradition says it brings good luck in exams.
2. Book Atapuerca cave tours at least 2 weeks ahead, they are limited to 25 people and sell out fast.
3. Segovia cochinillo (suckling pig) must be ordered at least 24 hours ahead at traditional restaurants.
4. The Burgos Cathedral tour takes minimum 2 hours to see properly. Buy tickets online to skip queues.
5. La Clerecia tower climb in Salamanca costs just 3.75 euros and gives the finest rooftop view in the city.
6. Castile gets very hot in July and August. Sightseeing is best done before noon and after 5pm.
Total Budget
75 to 120 euros/day