Cappadocia
5
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Five days in Cappadocia lets you go far beyond the hot air balloon photograph and into one of the most extraordinary landscapes on earth. The fairy chimneys, the underground cities carved nine levels into the volcanic rock, the Byzantine frescoed churches hidden in remote valleys, the extraordinary cave hotels of Goreme and Uchisar and the finest pottery tradition in Turkey at Avanos all deserve more than the standard overnight visit. This route covers the complete Cappadocia region. The fairy chimney valleys of Goreme, Pasabag and Devrent, the extraordinary underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, the frescoed rock churches of the Goreme Open Air Museum and the Ihlara Valley, the hilltop fortress of Uchisar and the extraordinary view from the Rose Valley at sunset.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Kayseri (ASR) or Nevsehir (NAV)
Getting Around
Rental car essential, some tours available
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, some hiking
DAY 1
GOREME AND THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM
MORNING
HOT AIR BALLOON AT DAWN OVER THE FAIRY CHIMNEYS
The hot air balloon flight over Cappadocia at sunrise is one of the most extraordinary experiences in the world. Dozens of balloons rise together over the fairy chimney valleys as the light turns the volcanic rock from grey to gold. The view from above of the Love Valley, the Rose Valley and the extraordinary lunar landscape of Goreme is unforgettable. Book at least two weeks ahead. Approx 150 to 250 euros. Travel: 10 min drive
MIDDAY
GOREME OPEN AIR MUSEUM, THE FINEST ROCK CHURCH COMPLEX IN TURKEY
The Goreme Open Air Museum is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing over thirty Byzantine rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries carved into the volcanic tufa between the 10th and 13th centuries. The Dark Church has the finest and most vivid frescoes in Cappadocia, its extraordinary blues and golds preserved by centuries of darkness. The Buckle Church and the Apple Church are also outstanding. Entry approx 15 euros. Travel: 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
GOREME VILLAGE AND THE LOVE VALLEY
The village of Goreme sits surrounded by an extraordinary concentration of fairy chimneys on every side. The Love Valley to the north of the village has the most extraordinary formations, tall columns of volcanic tufa rising from the valley floor in the most photographed shapes in Cappadocia. The walk through the valley takes about an hour and ends at a viewpoint above the village. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Monks Valley at Pasabag, just north of Goreme, has the finest mushroom-shaped fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, including the extraordinary triple-headed formation used as a monk's cell in the Byzantine period. Almost always quieter than Goreme itself, particularly in the late afternoon. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Balloon company breakfast Champagne breakfast provided after every balloon flight. | Lunch: Dibek Restaurant, Goreme Traditional testi kebab cooked in a sealed clay pot. Extraordinary. | Dinner: Topdeck Cave Restaurant Cave dining in Goreme. Local Cappadocian wines and lamb.
DAY 2
THE UNDERGROUND CITIES
MORNING
DERINKUYU UNDERGROUND CITY, NINE LEVELS INTO THE EARTH
Derinkuyu is the deepest underground city in Cappadocia, descending nine levels and 85 metres into the volcanic rock. Built by the early Christians as a refuge from Arab raids, it could shelter up to 20,000 people with their livestock, food stores and wine cellars. The extraordinary ventilation shafts, the millstone doors that sealed each level and the church at the lowest level are remarkable. Entry approx 10 euros. Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
KAYMAKLI UNDERGROUND CITY, THE WIDEST UNDERGROUND COMPLEX
Kaymakli is the widest underground city in the region, its tunnels spreading horizontally across an extraordinary area under the modern town above. The stables, the wine presses, the storage rooms and the extraordinarily narrow connecting passages between levels create a remarkable sense of the lives lived underground. Entry approx 10 euros. Visit in the morning before tour groups arrive. Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE SOGANLI VALLEY, THE HIDDEN BYZANTINE VALLEY
The Soganli Valley south of Kaymakli is one of the least visited extraordinary valleys in Cappadocia, its twin branches lined with Byzantine rock churches, pigeon houses and cave dwellings carved into the soft tufa cliffs. The Karabas Church has extraordinary frescoes. The valley has authentic Turkish teahouses and almost no coach tours. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ozkonak Underground City, 14km north of Avanos, is the least visited of the three major underground cities and the only one with its original communication holes between levels still intact. Almost always quiet. Entry approx 5 euros. The drive through the valley to reach it is extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Goreme Tea and gozleme before the early drive south. | Lunch: Local restaurant, Derinkuyu town Lamb stew and flatbread above the underground city. | Dinner: Pumpkin Restaurant, Goreme Cappadocian pumpkin desserts and local Emir white wine.
DAY 3
IHLARA VALLEY
MORNING
THE IHLARA VALLEY, THE GRAND CANYON OF CAPPADOCIA
The Ihlara Valley is a 16km canyon carved by the Melendiz river through the volcanic plateau, its walls honeycombed with over 100 Byzantine rock churches. The canyon walk from Ihlara village to Belisirma is the finest in Cappadocia, following the river through extraordinary scenery. The Agacalti Church, the Purenly Church and the Kokar Church have the finest frescoes. Entry approx 8 euros. Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
BELISIRMA VILLAGE AND THE RIVER RESTAURANTS
Belisirma sits at the midpoint of the Ihlara Valley, its extraordinary riverside restaurants built on platforms over the Melendiz river. Trout farms supply the restaurants with fresh fish. Eating above the rushing water with the canyon walls rising on both sides is one of the most memorable meals in the region. The walk continues downstream to Selime after lunch. Travel: 30 min walk
AFTERNOON
SELIME MONASTERY, THE LARGEST ROCK-CUT CATHEDRAL IN CAPPADOCIA
Selime Monastery at the northern end of the Ihlara Valley is the largest rock-cut religious building in Cappadocia, an extraordinary complex of cathedral, kitchen, stables and monks' cells carved into a volcanic cliff face. The cathedral interior with its pillars and arched ceiling is remarkable. The view from the top of the complex over the valley and the plain beyond is extraordinary. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Yaprakhisar rock formation near Selime, a series of extraordinary volcanic pinnacles rising from the plain that were used as a filming location for the planet Tatooine in Star Wars, is almost always overlooked. The drive through the plain from Selime to Goreme passes directly beneath it. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Goreme Early start needed for Ihlara. Packed breakfast or roadside cafe. | Lunch: Riverside restaurant, Belisirma Fresh trout eaten above the Melendiz river in the canyon. | Dinner: Anatolian Houses, Goreme The finest restaurant in Goreme. Local lamb and Cappadocian wines.
DAY 4
AVANOS AND PASABAG
MORNING
PASABAG, THE FINEST FAIRY CHIMNEY VALLEY IN CAPPADOCIA
Pasabag, also known as the Monks Valley, has the most extraordinary concentration of mushroom-shaped fairy chimneys in Cappadocia. The triple-headed formation at the centre of the valley was used as a monk's hermitage in the Byzantine period, a small chapel carved inside the upper cap. The valley is best in the early morning before the day tour coaches arrive from Goreme. Free. Travel: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
AVANOS, THE POTTERY CAPITAL OF CAPPADOCIA
Avanos on the Kizilirmak river has been the centre of Turkish pottery for over 4,000 years, the distinctive red clay of the riverbanks producing the finest handthrown pottery in Anatolia. The working ateliers in the old town offer extraordinary demonstrations of wheel throwing. The extraordinary underground gallery of Chez Galip beneath his hair museum is one of the most remarkable spaces in Cappadocia. Free to browse. Travel: 20 min drive
AFTERNOON
DEVRENT VALLEY, THE IMAGINATION VALLEY
Devrent Valley has the most extraordinary eroded fairy chimney formations in Cappadocia, the volcanic tufa weathered into shapes resembling animals, figures and objects. The camel formation is the most famous, but the entire valley rewards slow exploration. The valley is entirely undeveloped and almost always quiet in the late afternoon. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zelve Open Air Museum, between Avanos and Goreme, is a deserted cave village inhabited until 1952 when structural instability forced the evacuation of the entire community. The extraordinary abandoned mosques, churches and homes carved into three interconnected valleys are remarkably atmospheric. Entry approx 8 euros. Almost always quieter than Goreme.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Goreme Tea and borek before the morning drive to Pasabag. | Lunch: Sardunya Restaurant, Avanos Fresh trout from the Kizilirmak and Cappadocian meze. | Dinner: Ziggy's, Goreme The finest wine list in Cappadocia and extraordinary Anatolian food.
DAY 5
UCHISAR AND THE ROSE VALLEY
MORNING
UCHISAR CASTLE, THE HIGHEST POINT IN CAPPADOCIA
Uchisar is the highest point in the Cappadocia region, its extraordinary natural rock castle rising 60 metres above the surrounding plateau, honeycombed with carved rooms, tunnels and windows on every face. The view from the summit over the entire Cappadocia landscape, from Goreme to Mount Erciyes on the horizon, is the finest panorama in the region. Entry approx 5 euros. Travel: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
PIGEON VALLEY, THE WALK BETWEEN UCHISAR AND GOREME
Pigeon Valley connects Uchisar to Goreme through an extraordinary canyon lined with thousands of pigeon houses carved into the cliff faces. The pigeons were kept for their droppings, the finest fertiliser for the extraordinary Cappadocian vineyards and fruit orchards. The walk takes about 90 minutes and passes through one of the most beautiful landscapes in the region. Free. Travel: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE ROSE VALLEY AT SUNSET, THE FINEST HOUR IN CAPPADOCIA
The Rose Valley between Goreme and Cavusin turns an extraordinary shade of deep rose pink in the hour before sunset, the iron oxide in the volcanic rock glowing in the low light. The walk through the valley from the Goreme viewpoint takes about 90 minutes and passes the extraordinary Hacilar Church and the Kolonlu Church with its remarkable frescoes. Allow time to find the best sunset viewpoint. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cavusin village church, carved into the cliff above the old abandoned village, is one of the largest rock-cut churches in Cappadocia and is almost always empty. The frescoes inside the extraordinary barrel-vaulted nave are among the finest in the region. Entry free. The abandoned houses below the church are equally extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Uchisar Tea below the castle before it opens at 8am. | Lunch: Lil'a Restaurant, Uchisar The finest terrace in Cappadocia with views over the valley. | Dinner: Farewell dinner, Goreme Final evening at Anatolian Houses or Topdeck for Cappadocian lamb.
Where To Stay
Goreme, Nights 1 to 3 Cave hotel in the heart of the fairy chimney valleys. Approx 80 to 200 euros per night. Uchisar, Nights 4 to 5 Luxury cave hotel with the finest views in Cappadocia. Approx 120 to 250 euros per night. Budget option Goreme has excellent hostels and guesthouses from approx 30 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Book your hot air balloon flight 2 weeks ahead minimum. Sunrise is the only time to fly.
2. The Goreme Open Air Museum is extraordinary early morning before coach tours arrive at 10am.
3. Derinkuyu underground city is deeper and less crowded than Kaymakli. Go to both if possible.
4. The Rose Valley at sunset turns an extraordinary shade of deep pink. Allow 2 hours before dark.
5. Avanos pottery is the finest in Turkey. Visit a working atelier to see the wheel thrown before buying.
6. Cave hotels vary enormously in quality. Book a hotel carved into the original volcanic tufa rock.
Total Budget
100 to 270 euros/day