Cappadocia
3
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Three days in Cappadocia is enough to see the greatest landscapes, the finest Byzantine frescoed churches, one of the extraordinary underground cities and to experience the hot air balloon flight at dawn that is one of the most remarkable journeys on earth. This is Cappadocia done properly, with time to walk the valleys and avoid the coach tour rush. This route covers the essential Cappadocia: the Goreme Open Air Museum and the fairy chimney valleys, the Derinkuyu underground city, the Ihlara Valley canyon walk, and the extraordinary Rose Valley at sunset from Uchisar, the highest point in the region.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to November
Getting There
Fly into Kayseri (ASR) or Nevsehir (NAV)
Getting Around
Rental car essential, some tours available
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 120 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, some hiking
DAY 1
GOREME AND THE FAIRY CHIMNEYS
MORNING
HOT AIR BALLOON AND THE GOREME OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Start before dawn for the hot air balloon flight over the fairy chimneys, one of the most extraordinary experiences in the world. After landing and the champagne breakfast, drive to the Goreme Open Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing over thirty Byzantine rock-cut churches. The Dark Church has the finest frescoes in the region, its extraordinary blues and golds preserved by centuries of darkness. Entry to museum approx 15 euros. Travel: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
PASABAG, THE MONKS VALLEY
Pasabag has the most extraordinary concentration of mushroom-shaped fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, including the remarkable triple-headed formation used as a monk's hermitage in the Byzantine period. The valley is best visited in the early afternoon before the day tour coaches arrive from Goreme. The walk through the formations takes about 45 minutes and rewards exploration in every direction. Free. Travel: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
GOREME VILLAGE AND THE LOVE VALLEY
The village of Goreme sits surrounded by fairy chimneys on every side. The Love Valley to the north of the village has the most extraordinary formations in Cappadocia. The walk through the valley takes about an hour and ends at a viewpoint above the village with extraordinary views over the surrounding landscape. The walk is best in the late afternoon when the light is warm on the volcanic rock. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Zelve Open Air Museum, between Avanos and Goreme, is a deserted cave village inhabited until 1952. The extraordinary abandoned mosques, churches and homes carved into three interconnected valleys are remarkably atmospheric and far less visited than Goreme. Entry approx 8 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Balloon company champagne breakfast Provided after every balloon flight in the field. | Lunch: Dibek Restaurant, Goreme Traditional testi kebab cooked sealed in a clay pot. Extraordinary. | Dinner: Topdeck Cave Restaurant Cave dining in Goreme with local Cappadocian wines and lamb.
DAY 2
UNDERGROUND CITIES AND IHLARA VALLEY
MORNING
DERINKUYU UNDERGROUND CITY
Derinkuyu descends nine levels and 85 metres into the volcanic rock. Built by early Christians as a refuge from Arab raids, it could shelter up to 20,000 people with their livestock, food stores and wine cellars. The extraordinary ventilation shafts, the millstone doors that sealed each level and the church at the lowest level are remarkable. The deepest and most extraordinary underground city in the region. Entry approx 10 euros. Travel: 40 min drive
MIDDAY
THE IHLARA VALLEY CANYON WALK
The Ihlara Valley is a 16km canyon carved by the Melendiz river through the volcanic plateau, its walls honeycombed with over 100 Byzantine rock churches. Walk from Ihlara village to Belisirma along the river, passing the extraordinary Agacalti Church and the Kokar Church with their vivid frescoes. Eat at the extraordinary riverside restaurants at Belisirma above the rushing water. Entry approx 8 euros. Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
SELIME MONASTERY
Selime Monastery at the northern end of the Ihlara Valley is the largest rock-cut religious building in Cappadocia. The extraordinary cathedral, kitchen, stables and monks' cells carved into the cliff face create a remarkable complex. The view from the top over the valley and the volcanic plain beyond is one of the finest in the region. Entry approx 5 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Soganli Valley south of Derinkuyu is one of the least visited extraordinary valleys in Cappadocia, its twin branches lined with Byzantine rock churches and pigeon houses. The Karabas Church has outstanding frescoes. Authentic teahouses and almost no coach tours. Entry approx 5 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Goreme Early start needed. Tea and borek before the drive south to Derinkuyu. | Lunch: Riverside restaurant, Belisirma Fresh trout above the Melendiz river in the Ihlara canyon. | Dinner: Anatolian Houses, Goreme The finest restaurant in Goreme. Local lamb and Cappadocian wine.
DAY 3
UCHISAR AND THE ROSE VALLEY
MORNING
UCHISAR CASTLE
Uchisar is the highest point in Cappadocia, its extraordinary natural rock castle rising 60 metres above the surrounding plateau. The view from the summit over the entire Cappadocia landscape is the finest panorama in the region, with fairy chimney valleys stretching in every direction and Mount Erciyes on the horizon. The castle is best in the early morning before the heat builds. Entry approx 5 euros. Travel: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
PIGEON VALLEY WALK
Pigeon Valley connects Uchisar to Goreme through an extraordinary canyon lined with thousands of pigeon houses carved into the cliff faces. The pigeons were kept for their droppings, the finest fertiliser for the Cappadocian vineyards. The walk takes about 90 minutes and passes through one of the most beautiful landscapes in the region, the white pigeon houses dotting every cliff face. Free. Travel: 10 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE ROSE VALLEY AT SUNSET
The Rose Valley turns an extraordinary shade of deep pink in the hour before sunset. The walk through the valley from the Goreme viewpoint passes the extraordinary Hacilar Church and the Kolonlu Church with its remarkable frescoes. Allow time to find the best sunset viewpoint above the valley. This is the finest hour in Cappadocia and the most memorable way to end the visit. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Cavusin village church, carved into the cliff above the old abandoned village, is one of the largest rock-cut churches in Cappadocia and is almost always empty. The frescoes inside the extraordinary barrel-vaulted nave are among the finest in the region. Entry free. Entirely unmissable.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Uchisar Tea below the castle before it opens. The morning view is extraordinary. | Lunch: Lil'a Restaurant, Uchisar The finest terrace in Cappadocia with views over the valley. | Dinner: Farewell dinner, Goreme Final evening at Anatolian Houses or Ziggy's for Cappadocian lamb.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Goreme, all 3 nights Cave hotel in the heart of the fairy chimney valleys. Approx 80 to 200 euros per night. Cave hotel tip Book a hotel carved into original volcanic tufa, not a concrete replica cave. Budget option Goreme has excellent hostels and guesthouses from approx 30 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Book your hot air balloon flight 2 weeks ahead minimum. Sunrise is the only time to fly.
2. The Goreme Open Air Museum is extraordinary early morning before coach tours arrive at 10am.
3. Derinkuyu is deeper and less crowded than Kaymakli. Visit early morning for the best experience.
4. The Rose Valley at sunset turns an extraordinary shade of deep pink. Allow 2 hours before dark.
5. Avanos pottery is the finest in Turkey. Visit a working atelier to see wheel throwing before buying.
6. Cave hotels vary enormously. Book a hotel carved into original volcanic tufa, not a concrete replica.
Total Budget
100 to 270 euros/day