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Burgundy

5

Day Itinerary •

France

Five days in Burgundy lets you explore the full extraordinary breadth of France's greatest wine and gastronomy region, from the legendary grands crus of the Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune to the extraordinary medieval abbey at Vezelay, the canal town of Auxerre, the magnificent Romanesque basilica at Autun and the extraordinary wild Morvan Regional Park. This route covers the complete Burgundy. The extraordinary ducal capital of Dijon, the walled vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot and Vosne-Romanee, the gothic Hospices de Beaune, the finest Chardonnay of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, the extraordinary sacred hill of Vezelay and the Morvan lakes, one of France's finest hidden regions.

Best Time To Visit

September to October or April to June

Getting There

TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon to Dijon, 1hr 40min

Getting Around

Rental car essential throughout

Budget Per Day

Approx 100 to 170 euros per person per day

Difficulity

Easy, walking and driving

DAY 1

DIJON

MORNING

PALAIS DES DUCS DE BOURGOGNE, THE SEAT OF BURGUNDIAN POWER

The extraordinary ducal palace at the heart of Dijon, seat of the most powerful duchy in medieval Europe. The Musee des Beaux-Arts inside is one of the finest art museums in France. The Great Hall, the extraordinary carved tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless, and the view from the Tour de Philippe le Bon over the golden tile rooftops of old Dijon are all extraordinary. Entry to museum approx 6 euros. Drive: 15 min walk

MIDDAY

DIJON OLD TOWN, NOTRE-DAME AND THE OWL TRAIL

The finest medieval old town in Burgundy. The extraordinary Eglise Notre-Dame with its Jacquemart clock and mechanical owl, the half-timbered houses of the rue de la Verrerie, and the covered Les Halles market by Gustave Eiffel. Follow the bronze owl trail through 22 historic monuments. The extraordinary Chartreuse de Champmol with Claus Sluter's Well of Moses is on the western edge of the city. Drive: 20 min drive

AFTERNOON

MAILLE MUSTARD, EPOISSES CHEESE AND THE FOOD SHOPS OF DIJON

The extraordinary Maille boutique pumps fresh mustard from stone barrels in fifteen varieties. The finest Epoisses washed-rind cheese in France is sold at the market and specialist shops. Pain d'epices, cassis liqueur and Bourgogne wines complete the extraordinary Dijon larder. The rue de la Liberte has the finest food shops in the city.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Chartreuse de Champmol on the western edge of Dijon is the extraordinary 14th-century Carthusian monastery built by Philip the Bold as his dynastic mausoleum. The Well of Moses with its six life-sized prophets by Claus Sluter is one of the greatest sculptures of the Middle Ages. Entry free.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe Granville, Dijon Coffee on Place de la Liberation before the ducal palace opens. | Lunch: Le Bistrot des Halles, Dijon Local oeufs en meurette, boeuf bourguignon and Bourgogne rouge from the list. | Dinner: Loiseau des Ducs, Dijon One Michelin star in a medieval vaulted setting. Extraordinary Burgundian cuisine.

DAY 2

COTE DE NUITS

MORNING

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN AND THE KING OF BURGUNDY

The most celebrated red wine village in Burgundy. Napoleon insisted Chambertin travel with him on every campaign. Walk the extraordinary premiers and grands crus vineyards at the foot of the Combe de Lavaux at dawn before the tour buses arrive. The 10th-century Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin is the finest domaine chateau in Burgundy to visit. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 15 min drive

MIDDAY

CLOS DE VOUGEOT, THE GREATEST WALLED VINEYARD IN BURGUNDY

Fifty hectares enclosed by the Cistercian monks of Citeaux in the 12th century. The Chateau du Clos de Vougeot with its four extraordinary 12th-century wine presses is the finest expression of Burgundian wine culture in existence. The Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin holds its extraordinary Chapitre banquets here each November. Entry approx 7 euros. Drive: 10 min drive

AFTERNOON

VOSNE-ROMANEE AND THE MOST EXPENSIVE WINE ON EARTH

The most prestigious wine village in the world. The extraordinary walled plot of the Romanee-Conti, producing the finest and most expensive wine on earth from 1.8 hectares of Pinot Noir, stands at the centre of Vosne-Romanee beside the La Romanee monopole. Walk among the extraordinary premiers and grands crus. Nuits-Saint-Georges for a tasting at a small negociant to finish.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Abbey of Citeaux, 15km east of Nuits-Saint-Georges, is the mother house of the entire Cistercian order, founded in 1098. The monks still produce the extraordinary Citeaux cheese sold at the abbey shop. The cloister is open to visitors and the silence of the place is extraordinary. Entry free.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Boulangerie in Gevrey-Chambertin Coffee and viennoiserie before the morning vineyard walk. | Lunch: L'Etoile, Gevrey-Chambertin Extraordinary local lamb, jambon persille and Gevrey premier cru by the glass. | Dinner: La Cabotte, Nuits-Saint-Georges Outstanding bistro with an extraordinary list of village and premier cru wines.

DAY 3

BEAUNE AND MEURSAULT

MORNING

HOSPICES DE BEAUNE, THE GOTHIC MASTERPIECE OF BURGUNDY

The Hotel-Dieu of Beaune, founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, is the most extraordinary Gothic building in France outside Paris. The polychrome glazed tile roof, the Grande Salle des Pauves with its original beds, and the extraordinary Last Judgement altarpiece by Rogier van der Weyden are unmissable. The Hospices wine auction in November is the most celebrated charity auction in the world. Entry approx 12 euros. Drive: 20 min drive

MIDDAY

MEURSAULT, THE FINEST WHITE WINE VILLAGE IN THE WORLD

Meursault produces the greatest Chardonnay in the world. The extraordinary premiers crus of Perrieres, Charmes and Genevrieres are the finest expressions of white Burgundy. Visit Domaine Comte Lafon or Domaine des Comtes Lafon for an extraordinary cellar tasting. The village church with its 15th-century spire is the finest in the Cote de Beaune. Several caves offer walk-in tastings. Drive: 10 min drive

AFTERNOON

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET AND THE GRAND CRU SLOPE

Puligny-Montrachet is the most celebrated white wine appellation in Burgundy, its extraordinary Le Montrachet grand cru considered the greatest dry white wine in the world by Burgundy lovers. Walk the grand cru slope between Puligny and Chassagne. The village square with its plane trees and the tasting rooms of Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Carillon are extraordinary.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Chateau de la Rochepot, 15km south of Beaune, is the finest medieval castle in Burgundy, its extraordinary polychrome tile roof rivalling the Hospices. Rebuilt in the 15th century and restored in the 19th, it rises above a wooded valley in extraordinary condition. Entry approx 8 euros. Fewer than 50,000 visitors a year.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Boulangerie in Beaune Coffee before the Hospices opens. The morning light on the tile roof is extraordinary. | Lunch: Le Benaton, Beaune Outstanding local cuisine with an extraordinary cellar of Beaune premiers crus. | Dinner: Ma Cuisine, Beaune The finest wine bistro in Beaune. Extraordinary list from small growers rarely found elsewhere.

DAY 4

VEZELAY AND THE MORVAN

MORNING

VEZELAY, THE EXTRAORDINARY HILL OF INSPIRATION

The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine at Vezelay is the finest Romanesque building in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The extraordinary tympanum above the central portal, with its extraordinary Christ sending out the apostles, is the greatest piece of Romanesque sculpture in Burgundy. The hilltop village is the most beautiful in the region. The Chemin de Compostelle pilgrimage route starts here. Entry to basilica free. Drive: 45 min drive

MIDDAY

AVALLON AND THE GORGES DE LA CURE

Avallon is the finest fortified town in the northern Morvan, its extraordinary ramparts and medieval towers rising above the gorges of the Cousin river. The Eglise Saint-Lazare with its extraordinary carved tympana is one of the finest Romanesque churches in Burgundy. The gorges of the Cure below Vezelay are the most extraordinary river scenery in the region. Drive: 30 min drive

AFTERNOON

LAC DES SETTONS AND THE MORVAN REGIONAL PARK

The Morvan Regional Park is the finest hidden natural region in Burgundy, its granite hills, dense forests and extraordinary lakes entirely unknown to most visitors. Lac des Settons is the most beautiful of the Morvan lakes, its forested shores and extraordinary reflections at sunset among the finest landscapes in central France. Walking trails, kayaking and cycling available.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The Chateau de Bazoches, 10km south of Vezelay, is the extraordinary 12th-century castle purchased by the military architect Vauban with the prize money from the siege of Maastricht. His extraordinary plans for the fortifications of France were drawn up here. Still owned by his descendants. Entry approx 9 euros.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Cafe in Vezelay village Coffee before the basilica opens. The morning light in the nave is extraordinary. | Lunch: Le Bougainville, Vezelay Outstanding local Morvan ham, charolais beef and Chablis in the finest village in Burgundy. | Dinner: Auberge des Settons, Morvan Extraordinary lakeside dinner. Local charolais, Morvan mushrooms and regional wines.

DAY 5

AUXERRE AND AUTUN

MORNING

AUXERRE, THE EXTRAORDINARY CATHEDRAL CITY ON THE YONNE

Auxerre is the finest cathedral city in northern Burgundy, its extraordinary Gothic cathedral of Saint-Etienne rising above a bend of the Yonne river. The extraordinary frescoes in the crypt dating from the 9th century are among the oldest Carolingian paintings in France. The old town with its half-timbered houses, the Abbey of Saint-Germain with its extraordinary Carolingian crypt, and the quayside are all extraordinary. Entry to crypt approx 5 euros. Drive: 1.5 hour drive

MIDDAY

CHABLIS, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY WHITE WINE VILLAGE IN NORTHERN BURGUNDY

Chablis produces the finest mineral Chardonnay in the world, its extraordinary Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards on steep Kimmeridgian limestone slopes unlike anywhere else in Burgundy. Visit Domaine William Fevre or Domaine Raveneau for an extraordinary tasting. The village church and the view over the Serein valley from the grand cru slope are extraordinary. Buy direct from small growers. Drive: 1 hour drive

AFTERNOON

AUTUN, THE ROME OF BURGUNDY

Autun is the most extraordinary Roman city in Burgundy, founded by Augustus as Augustodunum and still surrounded by the finest Roman walls in France. The extraordinary Cathedrale Saint-Lazare with the Last Judgement tympanum by Gislebertus is the finest piece of Romanesque carving in the world. The Roman theatre and the Temple of Janus are extraordinary. Entry to cathedral free.

💎 HIDDEN GEM

The extraordinary Bibracte oppidum on Mont Beuvray near Autun is the ancient Gaulish capital where Vercingetorix assembled the tribes against Julius Caesar in 52BC. The museum is extraordinary. The views from the summit over the Morvan are the finest in Burgundy. Entry approx 9 euros. Almost entirely unknown to foreign visitors.

 🍽 WHERE TO EAT

Breakfast: Boulangerie in Auxerre Coffee below the extraordinary cathedral before it opens to visitors. | Lunch: Le Jardin Gourmand, Auxerre Outstanding regional cuisine with an extraordinary cellar of Chablis and Irancy wines. | Dinner: La Table d'Autun The finest restaurant in the Roman city. Local charolais and extraordinary Burgundy wine list.

Where To Stay

Dijon, Night 1 Hotel du Nord or Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge. Approx 90 to 160 euros per night. Beaune, Nights 2 to 3 Hotel Le Cep, finest address in Beaune. Approx 110 to 190 euros per night. Vezelay or Auxerre, Nights 4 to 5 La Residence in Vezelay or Hotel Le Maxime, Auxerre. Approx 80 to 150 euros.

Top Tips

1. Walk the Clos de Vougeot walls at sunrise. The grand cru vineyards with morning mist rising are extraordinary.
2. Dijon mustard: fill a stoneware pot at the Maille pump on Place de la Liberation. The tarragon variety is extraordinary.
3. The Hospices de Beaune at 8am opening, before tour groups arrive, is an extraordinary experience.
4. Vezelay at dusk, when the day visitors leave, is the finest version of this extraordinary hilltop village.
5. Buy Chablis directly from Domaine William Fevre or Domaine Raveneau in Chablis village, not from shops.
6. The Morvan lakes are the finest hidden region in Burgundy. Lac des Settons for a walk before dinner is extraordinary.

Total Budget

100 to 170 euros/day

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