Budva Riviera
5
Day Itinerary •
Montenegro
Five days on the Budva Riviera gives you the complete extraordinary range of Montenegro's finest coastline, from the medieval walled city of Budva and the iconic island of Sveti Stefan to the wild south coast beaches, the hidden cliff monasteries, the ancient olive trees of Bar and a day inland to the extraordinary Lake Skadar and the Virpazar wine country. This route covers the full riviera and its hinterland. Budva old town at dawn, Mogren beach, Sveti Stefan from above, the royal Milocer beach, Crvena Glavica hidden cove, Petrovac, the Rezevici and Gradiste monasteries, wild Buljarica beach, the ancient olive trees of Stari Bar, a boat on Lake Skadar and the finest local Vranac wine, grilled fish and Montenegrin prosciutto throughout.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Fly into Tivat (TIV), 30 min drive to Budva
Getting Around
Rental car recommended throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 110 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
BUDVA OLD TOWN
MORNING
BUDVA OLD TOWN AT DAWN, THE ADRIATIC WALLED CITY
Budva old town is the finest medieval walled city on the Montenegrin coast, its Venetian lanes and Citadella fortress on a small peninsula with the Adriatic on three sides. Arrive before 8am to walk the empty old town in extraordinary morning light before the beach crowds arrive. The Cathedral of Saint John and the Church of the Holy Trinity are both extraordinary. The Citadella at the southern tip gives views along the entire riviera in both directions. Citadella entry approx 3 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
MOGREN BEACH AND THE COASTAL PATH
Mogren beach west of Budva old town is the finest town beach on the riviera, two pebble coves connected by a short tunnel cut through the cliff. The coastal path from the old town walls to Mogren takes 20 minutes through extraordinary Mediterranean pine forest with views back to the old town. The second Mogren cove beyond the tunnel is sheltered and clear. The swim from the rocks at the end of the path is the finest in Budva. Free. Drive: 10 min walk
AFTERNOON
SVETI NIKOLA ISLAND DAY TRIP
Sveti Nikola just offshore from Budva is the largest island on the Montenegrin coast, a forested hill with a lighthouse and extraordinary pebble beaches on its far side accessible only by water taxi. The crossing takes 10 minutes and the beaches on the ocean-facing side are among the finest on the riviera, with extraordinarily clear water and almost no facilities. Water taxi from Budva harbour throughout the day in summer, approx 5 euros return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Budva old town at night after 11pm, when the beach clubs have emptied and the medieval lanes return to quiet, is extraordinary. The floodlit old town walls reflected in the still water, the cats moving through the lanes and the sound of the Adriatic below the walls is one of the finest night experiences on the entire coast. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Budva old town Coffee on the waterfront before the old town fills. The cats of Budva emerge early. | Lunch: Konoba Stari Grad, Budva Local Montenegrin fish, prosciutto and Vranac wine in the old town shade. | Dinner: Restaurant Jadran, Budva Finest seafood on the old town waterfront. Fresh Adriatic catch and local wine. Book ahead.
DAY 2
SVETI STEFAN AND PETROVAC
MORNING
SVETI STEFAN FROM ABOVE, THE MOST ICONIC VIEW IN MONTENEGRO
The viewpoint on the coastal road above Sveti Stefan gives the finest photograph in Montenegro, the extraordinary fortified island hotel connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway with the open Adriatic behind. The best light is in the morning before 10am or at dusk. The Milocer royal beach immediately north of the causeway was the private beach of the Yugoslav royal family and remains one of the finest on the riviera. The public Sveti Stefan beach south of the causeway is excellent and free. Drive: 15 min drive
MIDDAY
CRVENA GLAVICA AND THE HIDDEN CLIFF COVE
Crvena Glavica is the finest hidden beach on the entire Budva Riviera, a small pebble cove below extraordinary red limestone cliffs between Sveti Stefan and Petrovac, reached by a 10-minute path down from the coastal road. The water is an extraordinary turquoise and the beach is almost always quieter than the main riviera beaches even in peak season. Pine shade in the afternoon. No facilities but worth every step. Free. Drive: 15 min drive
AFTERNOON
PETROVAC OLD TOWN AND EVENING WATERFRONT
Petrovac is the most extraordinary small town on the riviera, a compact Venetian settlement with a small pebble beach, a 16th-century Venetian fortress at one end and a Byzantine tower at the other. The walk along the waterfront promenade at dusk with the fishing boats in the harbour and the pine-covered hills above is the finest early evening on the coast. The old town restaurants serve the freshest fish and the local Vranac at excellent prices.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Gradiste monastery in the pine forest above Petrovac contains an extraordinary cycle of 16th-century frescoes in the Church of the Dormition, almost entirely unknown to foreign visitors. The walk up through the forest from the Petrovac road takes 20 minutes. The monks welcome visitors and the frescoes are extraordinary. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe above Sveti Stefan Coffee at the viewpoint before the day visitors arrive. Morning light on the island is extraordinary. | Lunch: Beach bar, Crvena Glavica Simple grilled fish at the hidden cove. Extraordinarily fresh and extraordinarily cheap. | Dinner: Konoba Stari Grad, Petrovac The finest restaurant in Petrovac. Fresh local fish and outstanding Vranac on the waterfront.
DAY 3
SOUTH COAST MONASTERIES
MORNING
REZEVICI MONASTERY, THE HIDDEN BYZANTINE CHURCH ABOVE THE SEA
The Rezevici monastery complex on the cliff above the coast south of Petrovac is one of the finest hidden monasteries in Montenegro, a two-church complex dating from the 13th century with extraordinary Byzantine frescoes in the smaller Church of St John. The monastery sits in an ancient olive grove above the Adriatic with extraordinary views along the south coast. Almost no foreign visitors ever come here despite it being one of the finest Byzantine monuments on the Adriatic coast. Free. Drive: 10 min drive
MIDDAY
BULJARICA BEACH, THE WILD NATURAL BEACH OF THE RIVIERA
Buljarica is the finest natural beach on the Budva Riviera, a 2km undeveloped stretch of pebble and sand backed by the Buljarica nature reserve wetland. The southern end of the beach has no facilities and is almost always deserted even in August. The water is extraordinarily clear and the setting, with the mountains of Montenegro visible above the pines and the wetland birds moving through the reeds behind, is the finest natural beach experience on the coast. Free. Drive: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
ANCIENT OLIVE TREES OF BAR, 2,000 YEARS OLD
The ancient olive grove near Stari Bar contains trees documented to be over 2,000 years old, the oldest productive olive trees in the world. The extraordinary gnarled trunks of the oldest trees, up to 10 metres in circumference, are among the most remarkable natural objects in the Balkans. Local farmers sell oil pressed from the ancient trees directly at the grove. The ruined medieval town of Stari Bar above, destroyed in 1878, is the finest archaeological site on the coast. Stari Bar entry approx 2 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The underwater ruins of the ancient city of Stari Bar can be seen from glass-bottomed boats launched from the Bar harbour on calm days. The ruins of walls, columns and ceramic vessels lie at depths of 3 to 8 metres in extraordinarily clear water. An extraordinary experience for snorkellers as well. Tours from Bar harbour approx 15 euros.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Petrovac Final Petrovac breakfast before the monastery drive. The morning waterfront is extraordinary. | Lunch: Beach bar at Buljarica Simple grilled fish at the northern end of the wild beach. Local catch and local wine. | Dinner: Konoba in Bar town Traditional Montenegrin cooking in Bar. Local lamb, cheese and the finest Vranac.
DAY 4
LAKE SKADAR
MORNING
LAKE SKADAR, THE LARGEST LAKE IN THE BALKANS
Lake Skadar on the border of Montenegro and Albania is the largest lake in the Balkans and one of the most extraordinary bird sanctuaries in Europe. The lake contains the largest Dalmatian pelican colony in Europe and an extraordinary range of waterbirds throughout the year. The town of Virpazar on the northern shore is the finest base, a small stone village with the finest Vranac wine producers in Montenegro. Boat trips from the Virpazar harbour reach the pelican nesting islands in the morning. Drive: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
RIJEKA CRNOJEVICA AND THE CANYON ROAD
Rijeka Crnojevica at the eastern end of Lake Skadar is the most extraordinary village on the lake, a stone Ottoman settlement at the mouth of the Crnojevica river canyon with a remarkable 16th-century bridge above the water. The road from Rijeka Crnojevica up through the canyon gives extraordinary views back over the lake and the mountains of Albania beyond. The village restaurant on the river bridge terrace is the finest lunch spot on the lake. Drive: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
VIRPAZAR WINE TASTING AND LAKE SUNSET
The wine cellars around Virpazar produce the finest Vranac in Montenegro, a full-bodied indigenous red grape that thrives on the limestone terraces above the lake. Several small producers offer afternoon tastings directly from the cellar at extraordinary value. The sunset over Lake Skadar from the Virpazar waterfront, with the mountains of Albania reflected in the still water and the pelicans returning to roost, is one of the finest natural spectacles in Montenegro.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Monastery of Kom on an island in Lake Skadar is accessible by boat from Virpazar and contains extraordinary 15th-century frescoes in the main church. The island monastery is one of the finest in Montenegro and almost entirely unvisited by the Budva and Kotor tourists. Boat hire from Virpazar approx 20 euros per hour.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse in Virpazar Breakfast at the lake before the morning boat trip. The early morning mist on Skadar is extraordinary. | Lunch: Konoba Badanj, Rijeka Crnojevica Fresh lake fish on the extraordinary Ottoman bridge terrace above the river. | Dinner: Konoba Virpazar Local carp, eel and the finest Vranac wine on the lake waterfront at sunset.
DAY 5
STARI BAR AND DEPARTURE
MORNING
STARI BAR, THE RUINED MEDIEVAL CITY ABOVE THE COAST
Stari Bar is the most extraordinary medieval ruin on the Montenegrin coast, an entire city destroyed by the Ottoman bombardment of 1878 and left largely as it fell. The extraordinary circuit of the ruined walls, churches, hamams and palaces takes 90 minutes. The views from the upper walls over Bar town and the Adriatic below are extraordinary. The site is almost entirely unvisited by foreign tourists despite being the finest archaeological landscape on the coast. Entry approx 2 euros. Drive: 20 min drive
MIDDAY
BAR OLD TOWN AND THE ADRIATIC MARKET
Bar town below Stari Bar has a remarkable old town quarter around the clock tower and the old Ottoman bazaar, largely intact and almost entirely frequented by locals rather than tourists. The market near the clock tower is the finest local food market on the coast, with extraordinary local olive oil, honey, dried figs, prosciutto and the Plantaze Vranac wine that is the finest value in Montenegro. An excellent final hour before the drive north to Tivat. Drive: 1 hour drive north
AFTERNOON
DRIVE TO TIVAT AIRPORT VIA THE COAST ROAD
The drive from Bar to Tivat airport follows the extraordinary coast road north through Petrovac, Sveti Stefan and Budva, giving a final extraordinary view of the entire riviera from the road above. The drive takes 1.5 hours in light traffic. A final stop at the Sveti Stefan viewpoint for one last photograph of the iconic island hotel gives the perfect end to five days on the finest coast in the Adriatic.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Platamuni cliffs between Budva and Petrovac are the finest coastal clifftop walk on the Montenegrin coast, a 5km path above extraordinary sheer limestone cliffs dropping to the Adriatic. Almost no tourists use the path despite its extraordinary views. Access from the small car park on the coast road between Budva and Sveti Stefan. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Bar town Final Montenegro breakfast below the ancient ruins. Local honey and fresh bread. | Lunch: Bar market picnic Fresh produce, local cheese and Vranac from the extraordinary Bar old town market. | Dinner: Airport restaurant, Tivat Final coffee or dinner near the airport before departure from Montenegro.
Where To Stay
Budva, Nights 1 to 4 Hotel Astoria in the old town or apartments nearby. Approx 60 to 150 euros per night. Petrovac, Night 3 Guesthouses on the waterfront for the south coast day. Approx 50 to 100 euros. Virpazar, Night 4 Guesthouses on Lake Skadar for the lake day. Approx 40 to 80 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Budva old town at 7am is extraordinary. Empty medieval lanes, morning Adriatic light and the finest coffee on the coast before the beach crowds arrive.
2. The Sveti Stefan viewpoint above the coastal road is free and gives the finest photograph of the island. Go at dusk when the light is extraordinary.
3. Lake Skadar has the largest pelican colony in Europe. The early morning boat from Virpazar reaches the nesting islands before the birds leave to fish.
4. Vranac from the Skadar Lake wine producers around Virpazar is the finest red wine in Montenegro. Buy directly from the Plantaze winery for best value.
5. The Gradiste monastery south of Petrovac contains 16th-century frescoes in extraordinary condition and is almost entirely unknown to foreign tourists.
6. Buljarica beach at the southern end is entirely undeveloped. Walk 20 minutes from the northern car park for complete solitude even in August.
Total Budget
60 to 110 euros/day