Bucharest Wallachia
5
Day Itinerary •
Romania
Five days in Bucharest and Wallachia gives you the full extraordinary depth of Romania's capital and its southern region, from the remarkable Palace of Parliament and the extraordinary Peles Castle to the fine Transfagarasan Highway, the remarkable Brancusi outdoor sculpture at Targu Jiu and the extraordinary Hunedoara Gothic castle on the Transylvanian border. This extended route covers Bucharest and Wallachia completely. The capital and Belle Epoque heritage on Day 1, mountain castles on Day 2, Curtea de Arges and Transfagarasan on Day 3, the remarkable Brancusi sculptures and Cozia Monastery on Day 4, and the extraordinary Hunedoara castle and Bucharest farewell on Day 5.
Best Time To Visit
May to October, Transfagarasan June to October
Getting There
Fly into Bucharest Henri Coanda Airport (OTP)
Getting Around
Hired car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 60 to 160 EUR per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, mountain driving on Days 3 and 4
DAY 1
BUCHAREST
MORNING
PALACE OF PARLIAMENT AND HISTORIC CENTRE
The extraordinary Palace of Parliament in Bucharest, the most massive administrative building in the world and the second largest building on earth after the Pentagon, built by Nicolae Ceausescu between 1984 and 1997 with the remarkable destruction of an entire historic Bucharest neighbourhood. The fine interior of 1,100 rooms decorated with extraordinary Romanian marble, oak and cherry wood, the remarkable handwoven carpets and the outstanding chandeliers is the finest example of Communist megalomania on earth. Guided tour approx 35 RON. 20 min walk
MIDDAY
CALEA VICTORIEI AND OLD TOWN
The extraordinary Calea Victoriei, the finest historic street in Bucharest, lined with the remarkable Belle Epoque palaces that earned the city the name Little Paris of the East. The fine Cercul Militar National Palace, the outstanding CEC Bank Palace and the remarkable National History Museum with its extraordinary gold treasury are the finest buildings on the historic boulevard. The old town Lipscani quarter with its remarkable medieval street grid and the fine Stavropoleos Monastery church from 1724 are the finest medieval heritage in Bucharest. 15 min walk
AFTERNOON
ROMANIAN ATHENAEUM AND MUSEUM OF ART
The extraordinary Romanian Athenaeum concert hall, the finest Neoclassical building in Romania and one of the most beautiful concert halls in Europe, with the remarkable interior dome fresco depicting Romanian history and the fine marble columns. The outstanding National Museum of Art of Romania in the former royal palace contains the finest collection of Romanian painting and the remarkable medieval European art gallery. Entry approx 25 RON.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Cismigiu Gardens in the centre of Bucharest, the oldest public park in Romania opened in 1847 and the finest green space in the capital, with the remarkable Lake Cismigiu at the centre and the fine Belle Epoque pavilions, the extraordinary writer's corner statues and the remarkable plane tree alleys, is the finest hidden green experience in Bucharest. The extraordinary open-air chess players around the lake are the finest social institution in the city. ourhiddenearth.com
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Caru cu Bere, Bucharest The finest historic restaurant in Romania, in operation since 1879 in an extraordinary Neo-Gothic building. Outstanding Romanian breakfast. | Lunch: Lacrimi si Sfinti, Bucharest The finest modern Romanian restaurant in Bucharest. Extraordinary seasonal Romanian cuisine. Book ahead. | Dinner: Vatra, Bucharest Outstanding traditional Romanian restaurant. Extraordinary sarmale stuffed cabbage, fine mici grilled rolls and remarkable Romanian wine.
DAY 2
MOUNTAIN CASTLES
MORNING
PELES CASTLE, SINAIA
The most extraordinary royal castle in Romania and one of the finest Neo-Renaissance palaces in Europe, the remarkable Peles Castle built by King Carol I of Romania between 1873 and 1914 in the extraordinary Bucegi Mountains above Sinaia. The remarkable 160-room interior with its outstanding armoury hall, the fine Florentine Hall, the extraordinary Moorish salon and the remarkable carved wood and stained glass throughout are the finest royal palace interiors in southeastern Europe. Entry approx 50 RON. 20 min drive
MIDDAY
SINAIA MONASTERY AND MOUNTAIN TOWN
The extraordinary Sinaia Monastery from 1695, the founding religious house that gave the remarkable mountain resort town its name from Mount Sinai, with the fine frescoed church interiors and the outstanding Peles stream valley running through the remarkable pine forest. The extraordinary Sinaia town with its fine Belle Epoque villas, the remarkable Casino building and the outstanding mountain railway is the finest Wallachian mountain resort. 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
BRAN CASTLE AND DRACULA CONNECTION
The extraordinary Bran Castle perched on a remarkable rocky crag at the Bran Pass in the Bucegi Mountains, the most famous castle in Romania and the fine inspiration for Bram Stoker's Dracula setting though Vlad the Impaler had only a tenuous historical connection to the fine medieval fortress. The remarkable 14th-century castle with its extraordinary towers, the fine secret staircase and the outstanding collection of furniture belonging to Queen Marie of Romania create the finest castle atmosphere in Wallachia. Entry approx 45 RON.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Pelesior Castle adjacent to the main Peles estate, the fine smaller Neo-Gothic castle built for Crown Princess Marie by King Carol I in 1899, is the most romantic royal building in Romania with the remarkable Art Nouveau interiors designed by Marie herself. Far less visited than the main castle and the finest hidden royal experience in Sinaia. Entry approx 20 RON.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Sinaia hotel breakfast Good breakfast before the Peles Castle opening. Arrive before 10am to beat the tour groups. | Lunch: Sinaia mountain restaurant Outstanding Romanian mountain lunch. Fine ciulama mushroom sauce and remarkable mamaliga polenta at a Sinaia restaurant. | Dinner: Brasov or Bucharest Fine dinner in Brasov if staying, or return to Bucharest for the extraordinary Caru cu Bere.
DAY 3
WALLACHIA
MORNING
CURTEA DE ARGES MONASTERY
The extraordinary Curtea de Arges Monastery, the finest ecclesiastical building in Wallachia and the royal necropolis of the Romanian royal family, a remarkable 16th-century church with the most extraordinary twisted stone spires in Romanian religious architecture. The remarkable legend of Master Manole, the architect who built his wife into the walls to ensure the building stood, is the finest folk tale in Romanian culture. The outstanding medieval stonework and the fine royal tombs are extraordinary. Entry free. 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
VIDRARU LAKE AND TRANSFAGARASAN HIGHWAY
The extraordinary Transfagarasan Highway, the finest mountain road in Europe according to Top Gear, cutting through the remarkable Fagaras Mountains at 2,042 metres. The fine Vidraru reservoir visible from the road and the outstanding Balea Lake glacial pool at the summit create the most extraordinary mountain driving experience in Romania. The remarkable views of the Fagaras peaks and the extraordinary hairpin bends are the finest road scenery in southeastern Europe. 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
RETURN TO BUCHAREST
drive The extraordinary return drive from the Transfagarasan through the remarkable Wallachian plain to Bucharest, passing the fine Pitesti and the outstanding Arges valley with its remarkable poplar-lined roads and the extraordinary flat Romanian plain stretching to the horizon under the fine Wallachian sky.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Corbii de Piatra rock monastery carved directly into the cliffside above the Doamnei River valley 20km east of Curtea de Arges, a remarkable 14th-century hermitage with the fine frescoes still visible inside the extraordinary rock-cut cells, is one of the most remarkable and least visited heritage sites in Wallachia. The extraordinary approach through the fine orchard village and the remarkable cliff-face setting are the finest hidden monastery in Romania.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Curtea de Arges hotel Good breakfast before the monastery. | Lunch: Balea Lake Simple remarkable lunch at the extraordinary Balea Lake glacier hotel at 2,034 metres on the Transfagarasan summit. | Dinner: Bucharest on return Fine farewell dinner at Vatra or a traditional Bucharest crama wine cellar restaurant.
DAY 4
OLTENIA
MORNING
OLTENIA VILLAGE MUSEUM AND CRAIOVA
The extraordinary Oltenia Museum in Craiova, the finest museum of traditional Romanian folk culture in the Wallachian south, with the remarkable collection of Oltenian peasant costumes, the extraordinary carved wooden household objects and the fine traditional painted furniture that represent the finest rural cultural heritage in southern Romania. The remarkable Craiova Art Museum in the Baroque Jean Mihail Palace houses the finest collection of Constantin Brancusi sculpture accessible in Romania. 2 hours drive
MIDDAY
COZIA MONASTERY AND OLT RIVER VALLEY
The extraordinary Cozia Monastery above the Olt River gorge, the finest medieval monastery in Wallachia founded by Mircea the Elder in 1386 and remarkably well-preserved in the extraordinary gorge setting. The remarkable 14th-century church with its fine Byzantine frescoes and the outstanding Mircea the Elder tomb, the remarkable ruler of Wallachia who held back the Ottoman advance for 30 years, are the finest medieval heritage in the Olt valley. 1.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
TARGU JIU AND BRANCUSI SCULPTURES
The extraordinary Constantin Brancusi sculptural ensemble at Targu Jiu, the finest outdoor sculpture complex in Romania and the most important work of one of the greatest sculptors of the 20th century. The remarkable Endless Column, the fine Gate of the Kiss and the outstanding Table of Silence create an extraordinary 1.4km ceremonial axis through the fine Targu Jiu park. Brancusi was born near Targu Jiu and this extraordinary work is his finest public monument.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Constantin Brancusi, born in Hobita village near Targu Jiu in 1876, is the most important Romanian artist in history and one of the founding figures of modern sculpture. The remarkable Endless Column at Targu Jiu, rising 29 metres of cast iron rhomboid modules, is the finest abstract sculpture in Romania and the most extraordinary outdoor artwork in southeastern Europe.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Craiova hotel Good breakfast before the Oltenia Museum. | Lunch: Cozia monastery area Simple traditional lunch at a fine Olt valley restaurant near the extraordinary monastery. | Dinner: Targu Jiu hotel Outstanding traditional Romanian dinner in Targu Jiu near the extraordinary Brancusi sculptures.
DAY 5
HUNEDOARA
MORNING
HUNEDOARA CASTLE AND TRANSYLVANIAN BORDER
The extraordinary Hunedoara Castle, the finest Gothic castle in Romania and one of the most remarkable medieval fortresses in Europe, a remarkable 15th-century Hunyadi family castle with extraordinary towers, the fine drawbridge over the Zla n ti River and the outstanding Gothic chapel and tournament hall interior. The remarkable castle was built by John Hunyadi, the extraordinary Transylvanian military governor who held back the Ottoman Empire and whose son Matthias Corvinus became King of Hungary. Entry approx 30 RON. 1.5 hours drive
MIDDAY
RETURN TO BUCHAREST VIA FAGARAS FORTRESS
The extraordinary Fagaras Fortress on the return, a remarkable 15th-century water fortress surrounded by a fine moat in the Transylvanian plain, the finest water-moated fortress in Romania. The remarkable prison history of Fagaras, where the extraordinary Romanian Communist regime imprisoned thousands of political prisoners, and the fine museum of Romanian anti-communist resistance are the most remarkable cultural heritage of the Fagaras depression. 2 hours drive
AFTERNOON
BUCHAREST FAREWELL
A final extraordinary afternoon in Bucharest visiting the remarkable Village Museum in Herastrau Park, the finest open-air museum of traditional Romanian rural architecture in the country, with the outstanding collection of 300 traditional peasant houses from every Romanian region in an extraordinary lakeside park setting. The fine farewell walk along the remarkable Calea Victoriei in the evening light is the finest farewell to the most extraordinary capital in southeastern Europe.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The extraordinary Corbii de Piatra rock monastery carved directly into the cliffside above the Doamnei River valley 20km east of Curtea de Arges, a remarkable 14th-century hermitage with the fine frescoes still visible inside the extraordinary rock-cut cells, is one of the most remarkable and least visited heritage sites in Wallachia. The extraordinary approach through the fine orchard village and the remarkable cliff-face setting are the finest hidden monastery in Romania.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel breakfast Good breakfast before the Hunedoara Castle drive. | Lunch: Hunedoara town Simple traditional Romanian lunch near the extraordinary castle. | Dinner: Bucharest farewell dinner Outstanding farewell dinner at Lacrimi si Sfinti or the fine Vatra traditional restaurant.
Where To Stay
Bucharest Hotel Epoque or Hotel Cismigiu. Approx 80 to 200 RON per night. Excursion Bases Hotels in Sinaia, Targu Jiu or Hunedoara. Approx 150 to 400 RON per night. Budget Pensions and guesthouses. Approx 80 to 150 RON per night.
Top Tips
1. The Transfagarasan closes November to May. The Balea Lake section is open year-round by cable car only.
2. Book Peles Castle online. Summer weekends sell out. The extraordinary interior requires advance purchase.
3. Hire a car for the entire 5-day circuit. Romania's finest sites are inaccessible by public transport.
4. The Brancusi ensemble at Targu Jiu is free and accessible at all times. Allow 1.5 hours.
5. Hunedoara Castle closes Monday. Plan accordingly for the extraordinary Gothic interior.
6. Romanian food is extraordinary and cheap. Always order the local mamaliga and sarmale.
Total Budget
200 to 950 RON/day