Brittany
3
Day Itinerary •
France
Brittany is the most wild and Celtic corner of France, a peninsula of extraordinary Atlantic coastline, ancient megaliths older than Stonehenge, an extraordinary separate culture with its own language, music, legends and food. The wild Finistere coast at the far western tip, the Pink Granite Coast in the north, the extraordinary walled city of Saint-Malo, and the greatest concentration of prehistoric monuments in the world at Carnac make it unlike anywhere else in France. This 3-day route covers the hidden Brittany. Saint-Malo, the extraordinary corsair city entirely rebuilt after wartime destruction. The Pink Granite Coast and its extraordinary rose-coloured rock formations. And the Carnac alignments, 3,000 standing stones arranged in extraordinary rows across the Breton landscape, the largest megalithic site in the world.
Best Time To Visit
April to June or September to October
Getting There
Fly into Nantes (NTE) or Rennes (RNS)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 80 to 130 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Easy, walking and driving
DAY 1
SAINT-MALO
MORNING
SAINT-MALO INTRA-MUROS, THE CORSAIR CITY
Saint-Malo is one of the most extraordinary walled cities in France, entirely enclosed within its granite ramparts above the sea. The city was 80 percent destroyed in 1944 and rebuilt stone by stone from the original plans by 1960, an extraordinary act of historical reconstruction. The rampart walk around the entire city takes 1 hour and gives extraordinary views of the islands, the sea and the tidal pools below. The Grande Porte, the Chateau Duchesse Anne and the extraordinary cathedral of Saint-Vincent are all extraordinary within the walls. Drive: 30 min boat to island
MIDDAY
ILE DU GRAND BE AND THE TOMB OF CHATEAUBRIAND
The Ile du Grand Be is accessible on foot at low tide across the sand. The tomb of the writer Chateaubriand on the bare rocky island, facing the sea entirely alone with a single stone cross, is one of the most extraordinary and moving burial sites in France. The island is entirely wild and free to walk. Check the tide times carefully , the causeway covers within 30 minutes of low tide. Drive: 20 min drive to Dinard
AFTERNOON
DINARD, THE EXTRAORDINARY VICTORIAN SEASIDE RESORT
Dinard across the Rance estuary from Saint-Malo is one of the most extraordinary Belle Epoque seaside resorts in France, its extraordinary villas perched above the rocky shore. The Promenade du Clair de Lune, lit by thousands of lights in summer, is the finest evening walk in Brittany. Picasso spent summers here in 1928 and 1929 and several extraordinary paintings were made on the beach. The regular shuttle ferry from Saint-Malo to Dinard costs approx 4 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Fort National on its tidal island off Saint-Malo was designed by Vauban in 1689 and is accessible on foot at low tide. The views back to the Saint-Malo ramparts from the fort are the finest of the city. Entry approx 6 euros in summer. Check tide times carefully.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie intra-muros, Saint-Malo Galette complete (buckwheat crepe with egg, ham and cheese) before walking the ramparts. | Lunch: Le Chalut, Saint-Malo The finest seafood restaurant in Saint-Malo. Local lobster, oysters and the finest Muscadet. Book ahead. | Dinner: Chez Jean-Pierre, Saint-Malo Outstanding traditional Breton restaurant. Local fish stew, kouign amann and cidre bouche.
DAY 2
PINK GRANITE COAST
MORNING
THE COTE DE GRANIT ROSE, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY COAST IN FRANCE
The Pink Granite Coast between Perros-Guirec and Trebeurden is one of the most extraordinary natural landscapes in France. The extraordinary rose-pink and orange granite boulders, shaped by millions of years of erosion into extraordinary rounded forms, rise from the sea and the heathland in extraordinary alien configurations. The Sentier des Douaniers coastal path from Perros-Guirec to Ploumanach passes through the finest section of rocks and takes 2 hours. Entirely free. Drive: 30 min boat to Ile de Brehat
MIDDAY
ILE DE BREHAT, THE ISLAND OF FLOWERS
The Ile de Brehat is the most beautiful island in Brittany, a car-free island of extraordinary pink granite, subtropical gardens and wild coastal paths. The remarkable mild microclimate created by the Gulf Stream allows mimosas, figs, camellias and agapanthus to grow outdoors. The island's 420 permanent inhabitants make their living from fishing and tourism. The view from the Chapelle Saint-Michel at the island's highest point over the extraordinary rocky archipelago is extraordinary. Boat from Arcouest approx 12 euros return. Drive: 1 hour drive south
AFTERNOON
TREGUIER, THE EXTRAORDINARY CATHEDRAL CITY
Treguier is one of the finest and most overlooked small cathedral cities in Brittany. The extraordinary Gothic cathedral of Saint-Tugdual, built from the 13th to 15th century, has the finest cloister in Brittany. Ernest Renan, the extraordinary French philosopher born in Treguier in 1823, gave the city its most famous son. The house where he was born is a fascinating museum. The Wednesday market in the cathedral square is the finest in northern Brittany.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Sept-Iles archipelago off Perros-Guirec is the largest seabird reserve in France, home to puffins, gannets, guillemots and grey seals. Boat tours from Perros-Guirec run April to September, approx 25 euros. The gannet colony on Ile Rouzic is one of the most extraordinary in Europe.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe in Perros-Guirec Coffee before the Pink Granite coastal path. Buy provisions for the walk. | Lunch: Restaurant on Ile de Brehat Simple fish and moules mariniere on the car-free island. The setting is extraordinary. | Dinner: Kastell Dinec'h, near Treguier Outstanding traditional Breton farmhouse restaurant. Local lamb, seafood and Breton wine.
DAY 3
CARNAC AND MORBIHAN
MORNING
CARNAC, THE GREATEST MEGALITHIC SITE IN THE WORLD
The Carnac alignments are 3,000 standing stones arranged in extraordinary parallel rows stretching for over 4km across the Breton landscape, erected between 4500 and 2000 BC. They are the largest concentration of megalithic monuments in the world and far older than Stonehenge. Access to the alignments themselves is restricted to guided tours to protect the ground, but the view from the D196 road of the extraordinary lines of stones stretching into the distance is one of the most extraordinary landscapes in France. The Musee de Prehistoire de Carnac is the finest prehistoric museum in Brittany. Entry approx 7 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Locmariaquer
MIDDAY
LOCMARIAQUER, THE BROKEN GIANT AND THE TABLE DES MARCHANDS
Locmariaquer contains the most extraordinary prehistoric monuments after Carnac. The Grand Menhir Brise was the largest standing stone ever erected by humans, a single block of granite 20 metres tall and weighing 280 tonnes, now broken in four pieces on the ground. The Table des Marchands is the finest decorated megalithic gallery grave in Brittany, its interior covered in extraordinary neolithic carvings. Entry approx 7 euros. Drive: 20 min drive to Gulf
AFTERNOON
THE GULF OF MORBIHAN, THE INLAND SEA
The Gulf of Morbihan is the most extraordinary hidden landscape in Brittany, a vast inland sea connected to the Atlantic by a single narrow channel, dotted with extraordinary islands and ancient megalithic sites. The boat tour from Vannes or Auray passes the Ile aux Moines and the Ile d'Arz, both extraordinary for their landscapes and prehistoric monuments. The village of La Trinite-sur-Mer at the mouth of the gulf is the finest sailing village in Brittany.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Quiberon Peninsula south of Carnac is one of the most extraordinary coastal landscapes in Brittany. The wild Cote Sauvage on the western side has extraordinary Atlantic waves and dramatic cliff formations. The eastern bay has the finest beaches in Brittany. The sardine canneries of Quiberon produce the finest preserved sardines in France.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Boulangerie in Carnac village Kouign amann (extraordinary caramelised butter cake) before the alignments. | Lunch: Le Tumulus, Carnac Outstanding restaurant above the alignments. Local lobster, lamb and Muscadet. | Dinner: La Table d'Olivier, Quiberon Outstanding modern Breton restaurant. Fresh sardines, langoustines and exceptional cider.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Saint-Malo, Night 1 Hotel de l'Univers, beautiful hotel in the walled city. Approx 100 to 170 euros per night. Perros-Guirec, Night 2 Hotel Castel Beau Site above the Pink Granite Coast. Approx 90 to 150 euros per night. Budget Option Saint-Malo: Hotel des Chiens du Guet intra-muros from approx 65 euros. Carnac: Chambre d'hote from approx 60 euros.
Top Tips
1. The Ile du Grand Be causeway covers fast. Always check local tide tables before walking out.
2. Pink Granite coastal path is best in the golden hour before sunset. The rocks glow extraordinary pink.
3. Carnac alignment guided tours book up fast in July and August. Book ahead at the Maison des Megalithes.
4. Breton kouign amann is the finest pastry in France. Buy it warm from the boulangerie in any Breton town.
5. The Gulf of Morbihan boat tour from Vannes is best in the morning. Afternoon tours can be very busy.
6. Brittany oysters (Belon and Creuse) are at their finest October to April. Buy directly from cultivators.
Total Budget
85 to 140 euros/day