BlackForest
3
Day Itinerary •
Germany
Three days in the Black Forest reveal the most extraordinary combination of mountain scenery, spa culture and wine country in southwest Germany. The Gothic spire of Freiburg Munster, the Schauinsland viewpoint above the Rhine plain, the highest point in the Black Forest at Feldberg, the highest waterfall in Germany at Triberg, the Mummelsee crater lake and the extraordinary spa baths of Baden-Baden are all within reach of a single base in Germany's sunniest city. This route moves from Freiburg through the summit landscapes of the southern Black Forest and the waterfall country of Triberg to the High Road and the extraordinary crater lake of the Mummelsee before finishing with the Roman baths of Baden-Baden and the finest Pinot Noir vineyards in Germany on the Kaiserstuhl volcano.
Best Time To Visit
May to October
Getting There
Train to Freiburg from Frankfurt or Basel, or fly to Basel EuroAirport
Getting Around
Car essential for mountains and high road
Budget Per Day
Approx 65 to 260 EUR per person per day
Difficulity
Easy to moderate, mountain walking
DAY 1
FREIBURG AND THE SOUTHERN BLACK FOREST
MORNING
FREIBURG IM BREISGAU, THE SUNNIEST CITY IN GERMANY
Freiburg is the most extraordinary city in the Black Forest, its extraordinary Gothic Munster with the finest spire in Germany rising above the finest medieval market square in the southwest, its extraordinary Bachle water channels running through every street, the colourful Fishermen's and Tanners' quarters and the extraordinary Rathausplatz making it the finest small city in Baden-Wurttemberg. The Munster tower climb gives the finest view of the Black Forest. Munster entry free, tower approx 2 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min cable car
MIDDAY
THE SCHAUINSLAND, THE FINEST VIEWPOINT ABOVE FREIBURG
The Schauinsland at 1,284 metres above Freiburg is the finest and most accessible viewpoint in the southern Black Forest, its extraordinary cable car from Horben giving the finest view of Freiburg, the Rhine plain and the Vosges mountains in Alsace beyond. The Schauinsland walking trails through extraordinary Black Forest meadows and spruce forest are remarkable in all seasons. Cable car approx 16 euros return. Train/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE FELDBERG, THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE BLACK FOREST
The Feldberg at 1,493 metres is the highest point in the Black Forest and the finest summit in southwest Germany, its extraordinary summit plateau of high moorland with views on clear days to the Alps from Mont Blanc to the Bernese Oberland. The Feldsee crater lake below the summit, the extraordinary Bismarck monument and the Feldberg-Steig circular trail are all remarkable. Cable car to summit approx 14 euros return.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Staufen im Breisgau village 20km from Freiburg is the most extraordinary small town in the southern Black Forest, its extraordinary market square, the ruined Staufen castle on the hill above and the remarkable legend of Faust who died here in 1540 making it the finest hidden destination near Freiburg. The surrounding Markgraflerland wine country produces the finest Gutedel white wine in Germany. The walk from the market square to the castle takes 20 minutes. Entry to castle free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Friedrichsbad, Freiburg Outstanding Black Forest breakfast near the Munster. Local cherry jam and Schwarzwaelder Schinken. | Lunch: Gasthaus Schauinsland Outstanding Black Forest lunch at the summit restaurant. Local venison and Feldberg trout. | Dinner: Zum Roten Baren, Freiburg The oldest inn in Germany operating since 1120. Outstanding Baden cuisine and local Spatburgunder.
DAY 2
THE BLACK FOREST HIGH ROAD AND THE TRIBERG WATERFALLS
MORNING
TRIBERG, THE HOME OF THE CUCKOO CLOCK AND THE HIGHEST WATERFALL IN GERMANY
Triberg is the most extraordinary tourist town in the Black Forest, its extraordinary Gutach waterfall at 163 metres the highest accessible waterfall in Germany, its extraordinary house of 1,000 clocks, the remarkable Black Forest Open Air Museum and the Triberg market selling the finest Black Forest ham, cherry schnapps and hand-carved cuckoo clocks in the region. The waterfall walk is 15 minutes from the town. Entry to waterfall approx 5 euros. Train/Travel: 45 min drive
MIDDAY
THE SCHWARZWAELDERKIRSCHKUCHEN AND THE ORIGINAL BLACK FOREST CAKE
The Cafe Schaefer in Triberg is the most extraordinary bakery in Germany, its extraordinary original Black Forest cake recipe identical to the one invented by Josef Keller in 1915, its extraordinary display of cuckoo clocks and the finest Black Forest gateau in the region giving it a character unlike any other cafe in Germany. The competition between Triberg's cake shops for the finest Schwarzwaelderkirschkuchen is the finest food rivalry in the Black Forest. Cake from approx 5 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min drive
AFTERNOON
THE BLACK FOREST HIGH ROAD AND THE MUMMELSEE
The Black Forest High Road from Baden-Baden to Freudenstadt is the finest mountain driving route in southwest Germany, its extraordinary Hornisgrinde summit at 1,164 metres, the extraordinary Mummelsee crater lake of legend and the remarkable Black Forest panoramas giving 60km of the finest scenic driving in Germany. The Mummelsee walk around the lake is 30 minutes through extraordinary spruce forest. Entry free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Allerheiligen waterfalls in the northern Black Forest near Oppenau are the most extraordinary waterfall complex in the Black Forest, a series of six cascades descending 90 metres through the ruins of an extraordinary Premonstratensian monastery destroyed by lightning in 1803. The waterfall trail through the extraordinary sandstone gorge past the monastery ruins is the finest 2-hour walk in the northern Black Forest. Entirely free from the Allerheiligen car park.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Hotel Pfaff, Triberg Outstanding Black Forest breakfast before the waterfall walk. Local honey and dark forest bread. | Lunch: Cafe Schaefer, Triberg The finest Black Forest cake in Germany. Buy the original Schwarzwaelderkirschkuchen and eat on the terrace. | Dinner: Berghotel Mummelsee Outstanding Black Forest dinner at the extraordinary crater lake hotel. Local venison and Baden wine.
DAY 3
THE BADEN WINE ROUTE AND THE NORTHERN BLACK FOREST
MORNING
BADEN-BADEN, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY SPA TOWN IN GERMANY
Baden-Baden is the most extraordinary spa and casino town in Germany, its extraordinary Friedrichsbad Roman-Irish thermal bath where you bathe naked in a sequence of 17 thermal pools in an extraordinary 19th-century Renaissance building, the Caracalla Therme, the extraordinary Kurhaus casino where Marlene Dietrich and Fyodor Dostoevsky gambled and the magnificent Lichtentaler Allee park making it the finest spa destination in Germany. Friedrichsbad entry approx 29 euros. Train/Travel: 30 min drive
MIDDAY
THE KAISERSTUHL VOLCANIC MASSIF AND THE FINEST PINOT NOIR IN GERMANY
The Kaiserstuhl near Breisach is the most extraordinary volcanic landscape in Germany, an ancient volcanic massif rising from the Rhine plain covered in the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards in the country. The extraordinary loess cliff formations, the warm microclimate allowing exotic plants more common in the Mediterranean and the Weingut Dr Heger producing the finest Kaiserstuhl Spatburgunder make it the finest hidden wine destination in Baden. Wine tasting approx 10 euros. Train/Travel: 45 min drive
AFTERNOON
STRASBOURG, THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY CATHEDRAL CITY ON THE RHINE
Strasbourg in Alsace just across the Rhine from the Black Forest has the most extraordinary Gothic cathedral in France, its extraordinary astronomical clock, the extraordinary Petite France quarter of half-timbered canal houses and the remarkable Musee de l'Oeuvre Notre-Dame making it the finest day trip from Freiburg. The Strasbourg Christmas market is the oldest in Europe. Entry to cathedral free, astronomical clock approx 3 euros.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Stollen caves at Wolfach in the central Black Forest are the most extraordinary silver mining tunnels in the region, their extraordinary crystal-encrusted galleries, the underground museum of mining tools and the remarkable fluorescent mineral displays giving the finest underground experience in southwest Germany. The Schaubergwerk Silberbrunnenstollen tour is entirely free on specific dates. Paid entry approx 8 euros. The crystal formations in the Black Forest sandstone are extraordinary.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Cafe Konig, Baden-Baden The finest cafe in Baden-Baden since 1872. Outstanding pastries and the best coffee in the Black Forest. | Lunch: Weingut Dr Heger, Ihringen Outstanding Kaiserstuhl wine estate lunch. The Spatburgunder tasting menu is extraordinary. | Dinner: Zum Lowen, Sulzburg The finest restaurant in the southern Black Forest. Outstanding Baden Michelin-starred food. Book ahead.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Freiburg, All 3 Nights Hotel Zum Roten Baren or Colombi Hotel. Approx 90 to 250 euros per night. Triberg option Night 2 Hotel Pfaff or Parkhotel Wehrle. Approx 70 to 150 euros per night. Budget Hostel Freiburg or Black Forest guesthouses from approx 30 to 60 euros per night.
Top Tips
1. Feldberg summit: go before 10am in summer. The view to the Alps on clear mornings is extraordinary.
2. Triberg waterfall: visit after rain for the finest flow. The cuckoo clock shops open at 9am.
3. Baden-Baden Friedrichsbad: no swimwear permitted. Mixed bathing on certain days. Book ahead.
4. Mummelsee at dusk: the crater lake in evening light with the reflection of the spruce forest is extraordinary.
5. Strasbourg Cathedral astronomical clock: the mechanism activates at 12.30pm daily. Arrive 30 minutes early.
6. Black Forest cake at Cafe Schaefer, Triberg: the original recipe since
1915. Buy a whole cake to take home.
Total Budget
65 to 255 EUR/day