Black Sea Coast
3
Day Itinerary •
Turkey
Three days on the Turkish Black Sea coast is enough to experience one of the most unexplored regions in Turkey: the extraordinary Sumela Monastery clinging to its sheer cliff face above the Altindere valley, the finest tea plantations in the world at Rize and the mirror city of Amasya with its Pontic royal tombs reflected in the river below. This route covers the essential Black Sea from Trabzon east to the Rize tea gardens, south into the extraordinary Hemsin mountain valleys, and west to Amasya, one of the most beautiful small cities in Turkey and a place almost entirely unknown to international visitors. The hamsi anchovy, the muhlama corn fondue and the finest Black Sea tea complete the picture.
Best Time To Visit
May to September
Getting There
Fly into Trabzon (TZX)
Getting Around
Rental car essential throughout
Budget Per Day
Approx 50 to 100 euros per person per day
Difficulity
Moderate, mountain driving
DAY 1
TRABZON, RIZE AND THE HEMSIN VALLEY
MORNING
TRABZON HAGIA SOPHIA AND THE OLD BAZAAR
The Hagia Sophia of Trabzon, built as a Byzantine church in the 13th century, contains the finest Byzantine frescoes surviving in Turkey outside Istanbul. The extraordinary nave frescoes, the remarkable narthex paintings and the extraordinary apse mosaic are all outstanding. The old bazaar of Trabzon is one of the most authentic on the Black Sea coast, its covered passages selling tea, hazelnuts, extraordinary Trabzon bread and local kolot cheese. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
RIZE TEA PLANTATIONS
Rize is the tea capital of Turkey, its extraordinary steep hillsides terraced with the finest tea gardens in the world. The Rize Tea Research Institute has the finest gardens open to visitors, the views over the extraordinary emerald plantations and the Black Sea coast below remarkable. The Rize bazaar sells the finest loose tea in Turkey. Tea tasting is free. The drive along the coast from Trabzon to Rize passes extraordinary fishing villages built directly over the water. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
THE HEMSIN VALLEY AND THE WOODEN MOSQUES
The Hemsin valley east of Rize is one of the most extraordinary hidden landscapes in Turkey, its steep-sided gorge lined with the finest wooden mosques in the country. The Hemsin people maintain a distinctive culture and language in these mountain valleys. The waterfall at Palovit at the head of the valley is remarkable. Return to Trabzon for dinner along the extraordinary coastal road as the sun sets over the Black Sea. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Uzungol highland lake, 99km south of Trabzon in the mountains above the tea plantations, is one of the finest natural landscapes on the coast. The extraordinary glacial lake surrounded by forested mountains is best in the early morning before the day trip coaches arrive. The wooden village on its shore is remarkably atmospheric.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Trabzon bazaar cafe Tea and extraordinary Trabzon pidesi flatbread before the Hagia Sophia. | Lunch: Tea house, Rize Fresh tea, soup and Black Sea bread above the extraordinary plantations. | Dinner: Fish restaurant, Trabzon harbour Hamsi anchovy in every form. The definitive Black Sea dinner.
DAY 2
SUMELA MONASTERY AND AMASYA
MORNING
SUMELA MONASTERY, THE CLIFF MONASTERY OF THE BLACK SEA
The Sumela Monastery clings to a sheer cliff face at 1,200 metres above the Altindere valley. Founded in 386 AD and expanded over fourteen centuries, it is one of the most extraordinary monastic sites in the world. The walk up through the national park forest takes about 40 minutes. The extraordinary frescoes in the rock church are the finest Byzantine paintings on the Black Sea coast. The view from the monastery terrace over the valley is remarkable. Entry approx 8 euros. Drive: 1 hour drive
MIDDAY
THE POKUT HIGHLAND YAYLA
Pokut is one of the finest highland yayla villages on the Black Sea, its extraordinary stone and timber houses set at 1,850 metres above the clouds with views over the extraordinary green ridgelines. Inhabited only in summer, the yayla has the extraordinary quality of complete silence broken only by cowbells and the wind. The meadows of wildflowers, the extraordinary panorama and the simplicity of the mountain life make it the hidden highlight of the Black Sea. Free. Drive: 2.5 hours drive
AFTERNOON
ARRIVAL IN AMASYA AT DUSK
Arrive in Amasya as the afternoon light falls on the extraordinary cliff face above the city. The Pontic royal tombs carved into the sheer rock glow amber in the late sun. Walk the river promenade as the Ottoman houses on the far bank catch the last light, their reflections in the Yesilirmak completing one of the most extraordinary townscapes in Turkey. Find a riverside table for tea as the tombs are illuminated at dusk. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Hemsin valley F n rt n na river bridge near Camlihemsin is an extraordinary Ottoman stone arch bridge spanning a dramatic gorge, one of the finest examples of traditional Black Sea architecture. The valley around it has several more extraordinary small bridges, all built without mortar. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Guesthouse breakfast, Trabzon Early start for Sumela. Full Turkish breakfast before the drive. | Lunch: Tea house near Sumela or Pokut yayla Simple mountain food: soup, bread and Black Sea tea. | Dinner: Ottoman house restaurant, Amasya River terrace dining below the illuminated Pontic tombs.
DAY 3
AMASYA
MORNING
THE PONTIC ROCK TOMBS OF AMASYA
The rock tombs of the Pontic kings, carved into the sheer cliff face above Amasya between the 3rd and 1st centuries BC, are the most extraordinary ancient monuments on the Black Sea coast. The five royal tombs, reached by a staircase cut into the rock, look directly over the extraordinary Ottoman city below. The remarkable coffered ceilings, the carved facades and the extraordinary view over the river and city from the tomb level are all outstanding. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 20 min walk
MIDDAY
AMASYA OLD TOWN AND THE OTTOMAN HOUSES
Amasya has the finest collection of Ottoman timber houses in Turkey, their extraordinary cantilevered upper floors overhanging the Yesilirmak river in an unbroken row. The Sultan Beyazit Mosque, the extraordinary Bimarhane Seljuk lunatic asylum and the remarkable Gok Medrese are all outstanding. The Amasya Museum contains the extraordinary mummies of the Mongol Ilkhanid governors of the city, among the finest preserved medieval mummies in the world. Entry approx 5 euros. Drive: 1 hour drive
AFTERNOON
THE YESILIRMAK VALLEY AND THE ROAD BACK
The Yesilirmak valley south of Amasya is one of the most extraordinary river valleys in northern Turkey, the river cutting through a remarkable gorge lined with fruit orchards and walnut trees. The drive follows the river through extraordinary scenery before climbing back to the Black Sea coast plateau. The valley is the finest apple and cherry growing region in Turkey and the roadside stalls sell the extraordinary local produce directly. Free.
💎 HIDDEN GEM
The Ferhat ile Sirin rock relief near Amasya, carved into a cliff face in the gorge above the city, depicts the legendary stonemason Ferhat cutting through the mountain for love. The extraordinary scale of the carving and its remarkable setting in the gorge are outstanding. Almost always overlooked by visitors. Free.
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Breakfast: Riverside cafe, Amasya Morning tea below the extraordinary Pontic rock tombs at dawn. | Lunch: Lokanta in Amasya old town Tarhana soup, lamb and the finest Black Sea mountain vegetables. | Dinner: Final dinner, Amasya Last evening in the mirror city. Ottoman house restaurant on the river.
DAY 4
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
DAY 5
MORNING
MIDDAY
AFTERNOON
💎 HIDDEN GEM
🍽 WHERE TO EAT
Where To Stay
Trabzon, Night 1 City centre hotel close to the bazaar and Hagia Sophia. Approx 50 to 100 euros. Amasya, Nights 2 to 3 Ottoman house hotel on the river. One of the finest stays in Turkey. Approx 80 to 150 euros. Amasya tip Book a room facing the river for the extraordinary view of the rock tombs at night.
Top Tips
1. Sumela Monastery is best at opening time. The mist in the Altindere valley at 9am is extraordinary.
2. Try hamsi anchovy in every form: fried, in bread, in rice, in soup. The definitive Black Sea dish.
3. Amasya at night, Ottoman houses reflected in the river below the lit rock tombs, is unforgettable.
4. The highland yayla roads are only passable in summer. Always check conditions before driving up.
5. Muhlama, the Black Sea corn and cheese fondue, is the finest dish on the coast. Order it everywhere.
6. The Black Sea is almost entirely off the international tourist trail. Hospitality is extraordinary.
Total Budget
90 to 195 euros/day